shiem89

Sup Guys,

So, done some extensive research of all of the possible flywheel/clutch kits that are available to our cars. Since there were several folks that asked for my help, I assembled the following below to help make your choices easier when it comes to finding the right kit for your car/application.

Now to start off, here we have the following applications for the Acura CL and Honda Accord EX V6 6MT, these are all of the possible combinations from most expensive to cheapest:

ClutchMasters Clutch Kit/Aluminum Flywheel:

As we all know, the most expensive of the group is from Clutchmasters which have already proven themselves worthy of their products. Depending on the type of power the car's putting down, you have the option of going with the Stage 1, Stage 3, or Stage 4 clutch kits. They all come with an Aluminum AASCO flywheel, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, friction plate, pressure plate and alignment tool. For those wondering, the ring gear problem as been resolved and you'll get a perfect setup as long as you order the kit directly through clutchmasters themselves and not any third party. These setups usually cost anywhere from $1,375 to $1,500.
*You may not use the UR Crank Pulley in combination with this setup

Spec Clutch Kit w/ AASCO 103212-11 Aluminum Flywheel:

As we all know, there are ALOT of mixed reviews of spec clutches, but from my personal experience and a few other members on here, many revisions were made and the clutches work perfectly; once again, all dependent on application. For most of the guys that are going the forced induction route, the stage I recommend (all suggestions and criticism welcome) are the Stage 3+ kits unlike the stage 4 since they prove to hold much more torque than the stage 4 as well as being more streetable. With this in mind, rather than mating the Spec clutch with the OEM dual mass flywheel, it'd be recommended that it is mated with the same AASCO flywheel that Clutchmasters uses in their kit. Normally, the AASCO flywheel alone costs anywhere from $500 - $599 Brand new through an online vendor or on ebaymotors. if you're lucky enough, the wheel can be purchased for even less. As an added advantage over the oem flywheel, there's never a need to resurface the aluminum flywheel again since the friction surface is replaceable with another for cheap. This combination would help with the inertia issue leading to clutch slippage down the road. This setup runs anywhere from $1,100 (stage 1) to as much as $1,400 using a Stage 5 clutch.
*You may not use the UR Crank Pulley in combination with this setup

OEM Pressure Plate, P2R Friction Disc w/ AASCO 103212-11 Aluminum Flywheel:

Another cheaper alternative to the first two setups where this setup is rated up to 500~550 hp. Once again, the AASCO flywheel for either the Acura '04-'06 TL, '03 CL, and Honda accord 3.0 V6 (all the same part number) can be used in conjuction with P2R's friction disc (numerous good reviews) and either Acura or Honda's OEM pressure plate. The factory pilot and throwout bearing can be used in this setup as well with no problems at all. This setup will typically cost anywhere from $900 to $1100 depending on where you source your parts from.
*You may not use the UR Crank Pulley in combination with this setup

Spec Clutch Kit w/ OEM flywheel:

Now, for this setup, either the OEM Acura CL, Acura TL, or Honda Accord flywheel can be used in conjuction with the particular stage clutch setup you wish to use. Depending on the clutch kit stage you wish to get, this combination is rated up to 500. Normally, if you go with a used OEM flywheel and new spec kit, it'll any where from $800 to as much as $1300 if you buy the OEM flywheel brand new.
*You may use your UR Crank Pulley in combination with this setup.

OEM Pressure Plate, P2R Disc w/OEM Flywheel:

This setup has proven to handle turbocharged and supercharged setups with no problem at all. Typically, this would run anywhere from $579 (if the flywheel's used) to $947 if everything's new.
*You may use your UR Crank Pulley in combination with this setup.

From reviewing the specs of that combo, it'll perform just as good as a CM stage 1 kit

OEM Pressure Plate, OEM Friction Disc w/ AASCO 103212-11 Aluminum Flywheel:

Very Similar to the setup mentioned above, holding the same amount of power. Once again, the AASCO flywheel for either the Acura '04-'06 TL, '03 CL, and Honda accord 3.0 V6 (all the same part number) can be used in conjuction with Acura or Honda's OEM pressure plate. This setup will typically run you anywhere from $800 to $890
*You may not use the UR Crank Pulley in combination with this setup

OEM Pressure Plate, OEM Friction Disc w/ OEM Flywheel:

The most simple basic, and cheapest of all the combinations. This setup has been seen to handle supercharger setups with no problem as well as several turbocharged setups. Normally, this setup can cost as little as $400 (if the flywheel is bought used) to as much as $768 (everything new)
*You may use your UR Crank Pulley in combination with this setup.

I hope this write up helps.
All suggestions, insight, crisitism, etc are welcome. The more insight this thread gets, the more informative it'll be for everyone else!

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

helps alot for the ppl that dont know what they want or what should get.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Ive heard that ClutchMasters uses the AASCO flywheel, however when I spoke with Luis at CM he denied that, saying they build the flywheels in house. You can also run the lightweight pulley with it with no ill-effects.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

what about oem presure plate oem flywheel and p2r disc?

shiem89

That's total bullshit. If you ever look at the flywheel clutchmasters uses, it's literally identical to the AASCO flywheel. They say they build the flywheels inhouse just to take all of the credit. As for the lightweight crank pulley, other guys have had their flywheels break in half with a lightweight pulley installed so I'd rather be safe than sorry and not just go out and say you can use it. Gotta remember also, when you replace either flywheel or crank pulley with a lightweight one, you loose some torque. Sure you get quicker revs and faster acceleration with a better high end, but of the line, you suffer a bit. So it's always good to have one or the other, never both.

Actually, I forgot to include that in there, yes, you can use that setup also. Too bad I can't edit the original post.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

what would the cost be for the OEM PP, flywheel and P2R disc? What would be the benefits of it? Thanks for an informative post Shiem.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

+1

i changed the clutch 20k miles ago using oem acura
stuff but flywheel i just resurfaced it. everything feels right but when try to rip it a bit or burnout it does slip.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

^ that should not be happening at all...

Although I do not own or have a CL6 I'd have to say the best way to go would be with the pr2 disk, oem pressure plate, and a lightweight flywheel of your choice.

shiem89

Don't do burnouts... that's how my stock pressure plate died. lol I started slipping like a bitch after that and it drove me crazy. When i took everything apart, the flywheel still looked like i just resurfaced it and the friction plate was literally still new, but the PP itself wasn't clamping down anymore.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

i know there is Luk dual mass flywheel which is same part as our acura oem flywheel for $260+/-

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I wasnt saying its not an AASCO flywheel, Im 100% sure it is, I was just saying that CM says it isnt.

FYI, Im running the CM stage 3 with an Option Racing lightweight pulley, and have been for the past 8k miles with no issues.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

good list, I have all these combos written down from doing research also.

rp_guy

spec clutch kit is just the OEM PP painted blue.. you can find the OEM PP for less than $200 online

the only reason you can't use they pulley with most of the combinations is because the OEM PP can't handle less damping. that said, the CM PP is upgraded, much heavier than stock, which is why you can run both a LWFW and UD pulley


otherwise, good research and info.

sniff0301

Thanks for sharing your research and findings. This will save me a bit o time in the (hopefully not near) future.

SkillOBskilled

iTrader: (1)

So what about clutch resurfacing? Since our clutch is not easily or cannot be resurfaced, do people replace the clutch w/o resurfacing? I was under the impression that that would void all clutch warranties and I am not sure that shops would be even willing to do it.

It seems like replacing the flywheel one way or another is a must, so why not go with the lightweight.

Also,

What is the breakdown of the 579? The P2R disk, OEM PP & thrust bearing?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Resurfacing the clutch? You resurface the flywheel, not the clutch.

sbceltic

I am running stock (but plan to add 30-50hp). What are the pros and cons of an aluminum flywheel? Obviously better acceleration, but how does it impact the drivablility of the car? What is the most cost efficient clutch set up that can handle 280-290hp and not slip when I am slamming through second and third?

Thanks!!

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

For an addditional 30-50 hp the stock setup is fine. it is just whether you want to upgrade to something more than what you need now.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Are you saying you want 280-290 at the crank? Because that would be 30-50hp. But if you want 280-290 at the wheels, thats more like 60-80hp.

But I agree with Brian. Adding headers alone is about 20hp, and the stock setup is fine with it.

sbceltic

Thanks for the feedback. I am looking for around 290 at the crank, just a little extra. Another question, does anyone know a tune shop, performance shop or some place like that which is reputable in the Los Angeles area? Some place that can replace the clutch and do the bolt-ons at a fair price? Thanks tons!!

sbceltic

I'm also still curious if for the extra couple hundred bucks the aluminum flywheel would help the performance quite a bit. I am a bit worried how it would affect the driveablility though. If some one has a lwaf with stock pp and disc, let me know how you like it.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

There was someone running the AASCO flywheel with the stock setup, but I dont remember who it is.

I love my LW flywheel, but my clutch isnt stock.

DC3328

iTrader: (22)

so how does a lightweight flywheel break in half because of a lightweight crank pulley?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

That was due to the Comptech setup.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

OP what do you think about that thread you may take a look and say what you think.

@topic

my clutch slipping. im having "hard clutch" problem and its my second clutch with 30k miles on it.

im going to use LUK flywheel P2R disc and oem pressure plate/bearings.

do not have an appointment yet bc car is driveable and as long as i will be able to drive it im not gonna do anything but i may order parts soon...

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

you don't say what you got currently

but anyways i would say you don't know how to drive manual, or you beat the shit out of the clutch, by dropping it a little too often

also does the clutch pedal have free play in it, like where the top 1" of travel does nothing really, just takes up slack, if not that might be your slipping issue (cause it keeps the clutch preloaded, and wears out the throwout bearing real fast too)

have one customer at work, has had 3 clutches with only like 120k on the car, it is his driving (and living in the mountions also) and not the clutch itself, but he does know he is hard on it, and just pays for a new one no complaints

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

remove the slave cylinder check valve. i did it to my cl and it feels so much better. it was slipping before when id go wot, but not any more. just when i spray hahaha

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

i know im hard on it but its just me. i know i rip it often... i know but if i was different i would rather drive a toyota...

im driving stock clutch and last time i change it i didnt replace flywheel that may be a reason too... i did burnout couple times... i know thats my fault but please dont tell me that i dont know how to drive a stick bc i have never drove an automatic car (only one exeption my dad's van) in the europe only stick and here too...

im just hard on clutch...

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

lol


but yeah if the flywheel was never touched with the last one, i wounder how chatterly/judderly the new one is, probably not very smooth (sometimes you get lucky, but not often though) (but should not cause slipping itself though)

but also do you do alot of city driving, much harder on a clutch with the stop and go, where freeway you basically never touch it other then shifting which not nearly as hard as trying to start out is

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

says u

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

exactly and you wonder why i get 15-16 MPG

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

, at least i got a license though

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

, but yeah i think you just answered it yourself then (also remember city driving hardly racks up the miles, where the highway they just keep ticking off)

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

ill be back out thier when i get my damn permit. fuckin state is lagging

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

so you gotta drive around with your parents for a while then


btw it's "there" not "thier"

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

no, friends lol. both my cars are just chilling in front of my house for the past 3 weeks. spending no money on gas and not racking up mileage

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

i know its me NYC NJ stop n go driving hard. i know its me.

but the question is what is it that hard clutch. btw last time i resurfaced my flywheel

i dont know if removing slave is an good idea. anyway my next setup will be LUK flywheel P2R disc and plate oem with bearing hope that will last longer
im trying to fight my habbits but i think it comes with the age and i have to grow up a bit more haha. or buy an automatic which is not gonna happen

thats really great

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

hard clutch, they always seem to get harder when they start getting worn, nothing too unusual

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

you dont understand the problem... once you get harder on gas and rev engine above 5k rpms the clutch gets harder and engagment point is very very low... weird thing is that its hydraulic and really i dont know whats that... sometimes clutch pedal stay low and doesnt want to go back to normal position... i drove friend's G35 he had same problem and that was pressure plate but in G35 you cant say it gets harder bc the clutch is so firm and hard already and in the CL is like SHIT like you put hot knife into butter...

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I couldnt stand the light pedal feel on the stock clutch. Thats one of the reasons I got the CM setup.