ferizzo

Has anyone had thi issue where the car begins to idle low (hovering between 750 and ~300 rpms) when the car is in gear and then shuts off. Just happened to me twice a few minutes ago at a stop light and then when I got home and left it in gear to try and replicate. This is the first time the car shuts off but it has done the low idling a couple times recently. It never happened before and I haven't done anything new to the car. I'm thinking that maybe has to do with the fix the dealer did for the belt tensioner recently. Can anyone tell me if this could have caused the low idles and stalling? I checked the Icebox for any loose hoses or leaks and couldn't feel or hear anything different. Anyone else have this issue?

KissMy_Type_S

Its been happening to me A LOT lately... Comming to a stop the revs come down like theyre supposed to and then just keep goin until the car stalls. I have to keep it in neutral and baby the revs down to idle so that I can sit at a light or what not without stalling. Its a pain in the ass and I gotta figure out whats wrong. Its almost like the alternator cant keep the power going to the car. Once it stalls the stereo instead of staying on like it should with the key in the "on" position, it shuts off.

scalbert

Try resetting the ECU, starting the car and letting it idle for three fan cycles. If that doesn't help you would need to check the fuel pressure. If the pressure is fine it is probably the IAC valve.

To help the issue you could turn the idle adjust screw (not really an idle adjust but that is what the manual calls it). This will allow more air to bypass the throttle plate. Just one turn counterclockwise would probably help.

But since you have an '03 it would probably be just as easy to take it to the dealer.

ferizzo

Thanks scalbert. Would adjusting the screw you mention have any ill affects, such as maybe during WOT? Might be a silly question but I'm a noob when it comes to knowing this stuff (though I'm trying to learn).

I'd take it to the dealer but they'll probably have me wait a week before I could take it in and if it didn't happen to them then they'd just blow me off.

To reset the ECU should I just disconnect the battery for how long? I think I'll try this first.

DeezNutz

In my '01, I have idle problems when I come to a stop after hard acceleration. If I'm really playing around on the highway for a while, and then take an exit and come to a stop, it almost dies on me. It hasn't shut off yet, but it gets pretty close.

BoostedM3

I had this problem before and had the throttle body replaced 3 times before it went away. Acura said the tb flap and cable were damaged (bent or warped). All covered under warranty.

scalbert

The screw would not do anything at WOT. Think of it as a small passage within the TB that air flows through when the throttle plate is closed. When the throttle is opened air won't even bother with that as there is now a straight passage. Does that make sense??

You can reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery or by pulling the No. 13 (Small Light_Small_Back Up) Passenger Side fuse. Ten seconds is more than enough. Then just put it back in, start the car and come back in about fifteen minutes. Then see if it comes back.

When I installed my blower I had an unusual experience where sometimes when I depressed the clutch the revs would drop and not stop until is stalled. This was because the ECU wasn't expecting the additional load from the blower. So I adjusted the screw, reset the ECU and all has been well (actually I did this a couple of times before it was where I wanted it).

CL P Diddy

Sounds like an O2 sensor. I had that happen in my 89 Accord.

ferizzo

I hope not because the dealership will not cover the o2 on my car because of the OBX headers.

Thanks again scalbert, that made sense. I guess I would allow a little air when idle but under normal acceleration the passaeg would be open anyway.

chef chris

Steve...this JUST happened to me today. Car was in N, idling & warming up for about 10 minutes, and suddenly it just started to idle-down until it shut off. I was like...WTF?...

Happened when I depressed the clutch. Car is bone stock, 03 with 2K miles. It has been idling a tad rough when it's cold...maybe this adjustment will do the trick.

Did you ever do a write-up on how to adjust the idle-adjust screw? Like specific directions.

NJ_CLS_driver

I had this issue and the dealer said its pretty common with the idle position sensor and replaced it, and it went away for 30k miles and is now back again

Smitty

Yep, you need to take the wax that covers over the screw..(I guess HONDA wants to know if you played with it)..
I had the same problem Steve had when I installed the blower.. I still get it every once in awhile when the car is COLD or HOT... It is weird... I turned the screw 1-1/2 times...

Another thing I noticed after doing this is at a Stop light was the car started to Search... jumping in REVS from 750-1200 RPM then back down.. then all of a sudden it settled and held idle... wierd..

Ant7701

I wouldn't mess w/ the screw...
Take it to the dealer and have them check for temp codes...possibly the IAC valve
Try switching gas stations..

scalbert

I really would not mess with it unless you are in a situation like me and Smitty, the blower was an unknown load to the ECU. The IAC valves seem to be notorious for acting up and since it is under warranty, let the dealer fix it. In our case I am sure the dealer would blame the blower and rightfully so. So I tried the screw adjustment first instead of replacing the IAC myself and on my bill.

scalbert

Mine does this and did it some when stock. I beleive the ECU is testing and learning at those times. Once finished it puts the idle back down to about 750 RPM.

darrinb

i'd just take it to the dealer and get it scanned

KissMy_Type_S

Im guessing u have M/T? If so that is the EXACT problem im having... then when I try to save it from stalling/shuttin down it bogs for a sec and the CEL flips on

** BTW we need that smiley