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No, different numbers means different part, not interchangeable. One is manual and the other is for auto trans. Different transmission different mounting points equals different part.
So when people do a 6 speed swap on their automatic cars, are they replacing the sub-frame? Or they just making it fit with their existing sub-frame? If they're making it fit, what's involved with that?
The reason I'm asking is that the automatic sub-frame is easy to find used(all 01-03, tl and cl's use it), while the manual is near impossible to find. And a new sub-frame is quite a bit more expensive.
And is there any difference because I'm starting w/ a factory 6 speed?
The engine's the same, the transmission's the same after they do the swap. The headers are different but they don't bolt to the sub-frame, right? Any thing I'm missing?
I don't have the skill to do the work myself, so I have to convince my mechanic that this will work. He sees a different part number and says it won't work.
^I know this probably won't help much and I'm probably wrong; however, if I had to guess, I would say that the difference noted by the part#'s may only have to do with any attachment points for the front/rear engine dampers.
With that said, ask richardparker in his build thread below since he just performed a 6-speed swap on his modded auto CL-P:
He's pretty good at responses and may be able to recall/add some insight regarding these damper attachments or any other differences he ran into when installing his 6-speed swap onto a CL-P subframe.
Looking at all the part numbers for the whole cross beam sub-assembly, the front and rear beam, which form the engine cradle, are the only parts with different numbers.
Could the the two pieces not mix with each other? i.e the front beam from an automatic not bolt to the rear beam of a manual.
I only need the front beam, but if I replace both maybe it would work?
I only need the front beam, but if I replace both maybe it would work?
If you look at the picture of the front beam, from 1999-2003 Acura TL CL 3.2L automatic on the ebay link below, it does not appear to have the two female fasteners, within the construction of the beam, to hold the lower bracket of the front damper next to the motor mount.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2003-Acura-TL-CL-3-2L-Subframe-Crossmember-K-Engine-Cradle-OEM-/400917676122?fits=Make%3AAcura%7CModel%3ACL&hash=item5d588e405a&vxp=mtr
The front damper may need to be sacrificed to keep your out of pocket costs down by using an auto subframe or find a used 6-speed subframe.
If you look at the picture of the front beam, from 1999-2003 Acura TL CL 3.2L automatic on the ebay link below, it does not appear to have the two female fasteners, within the construction of the beam, to hold the lower bracket of the front damper next to the motor mount.
So this is something that a customizer would be able to fabricate, but my favorite mechanic would probably laugh at me.
So this is something that a customizer would be able to fabricate, but my favorite mechanic would probably laugh at me.
Yes, to keep the front damper. I'm not sure how many 6-speed swappers actually do it though. Perhaps, to them, it is a small sacrifice when compared to the 'fun factor'/availability of six manual gears.
I agree with Zeta. The difference is likely only the engine dampers. I think I remember hearing that the hole just hasn't been drilled for the damper but could easily be added.
Richard Parker would know for sure.
I have a 03 CL-S (Auto)... So will I have to get it off a 99-03 TL-S (auto)? Or will 99-03 TL (auto) work also?
The rear beam has the same part number(50200-S0K-A01) for 99-03 TL, 01-03 CL(Auto) for both Premium and Type S.
The front beam has the same part number(50250-S3M-A00) for only 02-03 TL-S, and 01-03 CL-S(Auto), the Premium has a different part number(50250-S87-A00).
If your replacing the sub-frame due to rust, I would stick with the same part number you have, since it would be a drop in replacement and you don't have to worry about the scarcity issue I'm dealing with for the manual sub-frames.
If you're going to put some kind of coating on the sub frame part to fight rust, I would recommend Epoxy Primer. Its good tough stuff against corrosion.
Even if you get it professionally applied it shouldn't be to bad for just a crossmember. You probably can get a quote over the phone.
I'm actually in the process of replacing mine right now. My old one actually cracked from the rust. I have pictures of the front and rear subframe if anyone needs them. A used rear beam was hard to find in the chicagoland area, had to order one from Acura and it took 2-3 weeks(had to clear customs?) and lists for around $700. Im using chassis saver on the new one before I install it and also doing the whole underside of the car.
Here's a pic of the front subframe(manual trans) cleaned up a lil but before sand blast and chassis saver. Don't quote me but it looks really similar to the auto one minus the bracket for the damper but that actually looks removable.
A got my car back today, it took 3 weeks to get the parts and do the work. I went with a new rear beam, $1850 installed. Still much cheaper than a new car.
After bumming rides for this whole time, it feels so good to be shifting my own gears again.
It wound up I only needed the rear beam, could not find one that wasn't as rusted as bad as mine. Got a new rear beam and the 4 insulator sets for $850 from Acura, then another $1000 for the installation at my mechanic.
My mechanic wasted a week looking for a used part, actually had one shipped to him that wound up being for an automatic. Then another 10 days to get the new parts from Acura. Once he had the parts it went pretty quickly without any hidden issues.
Sucks that a major structural element of the car only lasts 12 years.
6 speeds CL's are going to be pretty rare in few years when all the cars driven in the north become rusted heaps.
It wound up I only needed the rear beam, could not find one that wasn't as rusted as bad as mine.
Thanks for the response. So did you end up doing a little rust rehab (chemical rust conversion; painting to slow further corrosion) on the front beam to extend its life for a little longer?
Did not realize the front beam for the CL-S6 would be so difficult to find. One would think the most popular parts would be the engine and tranny for the swap crowd, go figure.
Thanks for the response. So did you end up doing a little rust rehab (chemical rust conversion; painting to slow further corrosion) on the front beam to extend its life for a little longer?
No, it would of been a good idea, but since I wasn't doing the work myself and the car is my daily driver, time and money dictated that only the essential repairs be done. My front beam is not nearly as rusted as hitek9's pictures show. And my rear beam hadn't snapped yet like his.
05-29-2015, 08:08 PM
