View Poll Results: Performance Radius Rod Bushings Poll
Yes, I'd be all over this
6
60.00%
Maybe, depends on costs
4
40.00%
No, not interested
0
0%
Voters: 10. You may not vote on this poll
Aftermarket Radius Rod Bushings Poll
#1
Lead Footed
Thread Starter
Aftermarket Radius Rod Bushings Poll
It's been about 1 1/2 years since we've visited the topic of having some performance radius rod bushings made for 2nd Gen TLs.
If you are interested in this mod please respond accordingly.
1) Yes, I'd be all over this
2) Maybe, depends on costs
3) No, not interested
Ruf
If you are interested in this mod please respond accordingly.
1) Yes, I'd be all over this
2) Maybe, depends on costs
3) No, not interested
Ruf
The following users liked this post:
CLSspeedx (08-05-2011)
#2
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (8)
i noticed that i have alot of wheel movement when i let my brother drive my car while he was leting clutch of the wheel started to move alot back and forth im not sure if that can be caused by mounts or only radious rod bushings
sounds like another 2 years of development
sounds like another 2 years of development
#3
I would be interested. I have the moog improved design ones that I havn't installed yet so not sure if they are an improvement. They are alot stiffer than stock ones tho just by feel.
#4
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Yesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyesyes.....
All it would take is a mold and pouring some polyurethane. Theres nothing to the stock bushings, just a big chunk of rubber.
Moog makes radius rod bushings?
i noticed that i have alot of wheel movement when i let my brother drive my car while he was leting clutch of the wheel started to move alot back and forth im not sure if that can be caused by mounts or only radious rod bushings
sounds like another 2 years of development
sounds like another 2 years of development
Moog makes radius rod bushings?
Last edited by civicdrivr; 07-30-2011 at 12:58 PM.
#5
#6
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Interesting. I saw those on their site but their name for them threw me off. The Accord shares the same part, so the should fit. Good thing, Ive got a set of ES (I think) bushings off an Accord sitting in my garage
Last edited by civicdrivr; 07-30-2011 at 05:22 PM.
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#8
#9
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
BTW, has anyone actually ever replaced the radius rod bushings on the CL-S?
The manual states the following:
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the clips and splash guard.
3. Remove the flange bolts to disconnect the radius rod from the LCA.
4. Remove the self-locking nut, washer, and front side bushing.
5. Remove the radius rod, collar, rear side bushing, washer, and shim.
6. Install new bushings in the reverse order of removal, and note the following items:
-Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly.
-Note the direction of installation for the front side bushing and the rear side bushing.
The reason I ask is because those flange bolts are a MFer to work with since space is tight in that area due to the axle. Making socket/wrench positioning difficult for removal/reinstall and final torque to 119lbf-ft.
I guess one could pop the lower ball joint for more flexability, however.
Last edited by zeta; 07-30-2011 at 09:29 PM.
#12
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
The tapered end of the larger one points to the front of the car and the tapered end of the small one points toward the rear, two for each side.
If your caster angle is out of normal limits the manual states to:
'Adjust the caster angle by increasing/decreasing the adjustment shims.
Note these items during adjustment:
-Do not use more than two adjusting shims.
-One adjusting shim changes the caster angle by 35` and the caster angle can be adjusted by 1 degree 10` maximum.
-One adjusting shim is 3.2mm (0.13in.) in thickness.'
If your caster angle is out of normal limits the manual states to:
'Adjust the caster angle by increasing/decreasing the adjustment shims.
Note these items during adjustment:
-Do not use more than two adjusting shims.
-One adjusting shim changes the caster angle by 35` and the caster angle can be adjusted by 1 degree 10` maximum.
-One adjusting shim is 3.2mm (0.13in.) in thickness.'
Last edited by zeta; 07-31-2011 at 05:29 PM.
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CLSspeedx (08-05-2011)
#13
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Those flange bolts are a royal pain in the ass to remove. When I replace the RR bushings, Im going to replace my lower control arms too since those bushings have 140k on them, and hopefully it will make it easier to remove those bolts. I will be doing that probably within the next month or two.
The ES part number is 16.7103 but they are just the bushings, they dont include the sleeve or any washers. They were ~$20 for the set.
I got them here:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=16%2E7103
Theyre pretty good, I ordered a few things from them.
The ES part number is 16.7103 but they are just the bushings, they dont include the sleeve or any washers. They were ~$20 for the set.
I got them here:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=16%2E7103
Theyre pretty good, I ordered a few things from them.
Last edited by civicdrivr; 07-31-2011 at 08:20 PM.
#14
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
The ES part number is 16.7103 but they are just the bushings, they dont include the sleeve or any washers. They were ~$20 for the set.
I got them here:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=16%2E7103
Theyre pretty good, I ordered a few things from them.
I got them here:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=16%2E7103
Theyre pretty good, I ordered a few things from them.
In addition, ES has the Moog kit #K9733 on thier website supporting the 02 Accord Coupe as well for $35.94. I was going to get those but decided to opt for the ES since I was not at all impressed with Moog's inner/outer LCA bushings when I tried them.
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CLSspeedx (08-02-2011)
#16
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
You would have to start at the '96 master kit first since that is the last year for the radius rod set-up on the Prelude. The ES 16.7103 is applicable to that model year (96).
#17
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Thats only the SH model that uses the horizontal bushing setup. The base model still used the conventional radius rod setup.
#18
Lead Footed
Thread Starter
Just checked . . . the 98 Prelude and 2nd Gen CL/TL have the same part number . . .
Ruf
Last edited by RUF87; 08-01-2011 at 05:35 PM.
#19
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
#20
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
51381-SX0-013 011 002 BUSH, FR. RADIUS ROD (RR) (HOKUSHIN)
51391-SX0-013 012 002 BUSH, FR. RADIUS ROD (FR) (HOKUSHIN)
03 TL/CL:
51381-S84-A01 BUSH, FR. RADIUS ROD (RR)
51391-S84-A01 BUSH, RADIUS ROD (FR)
They share the first five digits; however, they appear to differ slightly in the parts diagrams.
After awhile, to me anyways, it seems like those numbers all blur together similarly.
#21
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (7)
I'm down for this!!
My car did same thing before. My buddy told me that i have wheel movement back and forth. so i removed radius rod for checking. sure enough my bushings were bad. I replaced w/moog bushing kit. and kit doesn't come with locking nuts. I had to buy 2 new self-locking nuts. after that we checked if there's still movement. There wasn't movement. That's like 1.5year ago. maybe 2. I think it's time to check again.
i noticed that i have alot of wheel movement when i let my brother drive my car while he was leting clutch of the wheel started to move alot back and forth im not sure if that can be caused by mounts or only radious rod bushings
My car did same thing before. My buddy told me that i have wheel movement back and forth. so i removed radius rod for checking. sure enough my bushings were bad. I replaced w/moog bushing kit. and kit doesn't come with locking nuts. I had to buy 2 new self-locking nuts. after that we checked if there's still movement. There wasn't movement. That's like 1.5year ago. maybe 2. I think it's time to check again.
The following users liked this post:
zeta (08-01-2011)
#22
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
My car did same thing before. My buddy told me that i have wheel movement back and forth. so i removed radius rod for checking. sure enough my bushings were bad. I replaced w/moog bushing kit. and kit doesn't come with locking nuts. I had to buy 2 new self-locking nuts. after that we checked if there's still movement. There wasn't movement. That's like 1.5year ago. maybe 2. I think it's time to check again.
#24
Lead Footed
Thread Starter
Now that we know the bushings are the same for the CL/TL as certain model year Accords and Preludes maybe we'll find some more options.
Here's one that I found. It would be good to know how the Moog and these match up.
http://www.redlinemotive.com/store/r...tion=000783109
Ruf
Here's one that I found. It would be good to know how the Moog and these match up.
http://www.redlinemotive.com/store/r...tion=000783109
Ruf
#25
Lead Footed
Thread Starter
Okay, I just caught this the Moog K9733 are strut mount bushings, but you guys say they are the same spec as the radius rod bushings?
Just want to make sure because if they are not the exactly the same I'm not going to mess with them.
Ruf
Just want to make sure because if they are not the exactly the same I'm not going to mess with them.
Ruf
#26
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
MOOG calls the radius rod bushings the strut rod bushings. Its misleading.
#27
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
For instance, Moog #K9492 is in regards to the upper front suspension 'strut mount kit' meaning 'shock/strut' mount rubber. see link below.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=225530
#28
Lead Footed
Thread Starter
From what I can find on RockAuto and per brian6speed above, the Moog K9733 kit is for CL/TL 'radius rod' use. The confusion pertains to the symantics of the description, meaning 'strut rod' bushing kit.
For instance, Moog #K9492 is in regards to the upper front suspension 'strut mount kit' meaning 'shock/strut' mount rubber. see link below.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=225530
For instance, Moog #K9492 is in regards to the upper front suspension 'strut mount kit' meaning 'shock/strut' mount rubber. see link below.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=225530
Ruf
#30
Senior Airman
iTrader: (1)
They also have Prothane bushings available and are a little bit cheaper: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...asp?prod=81202
Which are better Energy Bushings or Prothane?
Which are better Energy Bushings or Prothane?
#31
'03 ABP YA4-S 6MT
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Edmonton, AB
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http://www.amazon.com/Moog-K9733-Bus.../dp/B000C5A1HK
$29.84 including shipping from amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspens.../dp/B000CNAVL8
$21.03 (cheaper than other sites but need cart to be over $25 for free amazon shipping)
i think i'm going with the energy ones though.. and just reuse the collar and washers
$29.84 including shipping from amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspens.../dp/B000CNAVL8
$21.03 (cheaper than other sites but need cart to be over $25 for free amazon shipping)
i think i'm going with the energy ones though.. and just reuse the collar and washers
Last edited by rp_guy; 08-02-2011 at 06:33 PM.
#32
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...prod=16%2E7103
If the picture on ES' website had something next to them to show their scale, it would be apparent that these are in fact the correct size for radius rod applications.
In addition, holding these in my hands and comparing them to brian6speeds pictures above, the Moogs do, IMHO, appear to be the same size. I can barely get the 16.7103's to bend when trying to squeeze on them like in the photo above. I'm impressed and will try and get them installed ASAP.
Last edited by zeta; 08-04-2011 at 04:31 PM.
The following users liked this post:
CLSspeedx (08-04-2011)
#33
Racer
Good to know thanks zeta! I'm going to work on my suspension after I get my car from the transmission shop. I'm planning on getting new radius rods and think I'll change out the bushings... Good luck getting them installed!
#35
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
lol, refer to post #9. Those steps are straight from the manual. As mentioned in that post, step 3; removal of the flange bolts to disconnect the radius rod from the LCA will pose as the largest hurdle. If you are not familiar with this area by prior work exposure, it would be best to let a local shop perform the job. Depending on the types of tools available to the individual, it could be real easy or labor intensive because access to those bolts for wrenching is very tight.
#36
#38
Lead Footed
Thread Starter
lol, refer to post #9. Those steps are straight from the manual. As mentioned in that post, step 3; removal of the flange bolts to disconnect the radius rod from the LCA will pose as the largest hurdle. If you are not familiar with this area by prior work exposure, it would be best to let a local shop perform the job. Depending on the types of tools available to the individual, it could be real easy or labor intensive because access to those bolts for wrenching is very tight.
Ruf
#39
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
I installed these ES radius rod bushings today and it went very smooth. Took the car for a quick spin and it felt tighter/firmer. I did'nt go to crazy because the next step is to get an alignment to see if the caster is in the green. Logically, everything SHOULD be within normal limits with just the new bushing install; however, I have learned that my front suspension can be finicky when I go and mess with it.
The old stock bushings were SOFT, just like in brian6speeds photos above. They were not cracked/split or deteriorated, just contorted from being compressed/used for the last 125K or so. 80K of those 120K have been with the added weight of a S/C'er, so that has to be factored into the overall effect on the whole suspension geometry as well. They needed to be replaced.
I added to step #3 to indicate what I had to do to get the RR arm off the LCA, YMMV.
The manual states the following:
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the clips and splash guard.
3. Remove the flange bolts to disconnect the radius rod from the LCA.
a. Detach the outer tie rod end.
b. Detach the endlink from the swaybar.
c. Detach the strut damper fork from the strut and LCA and set it aside.
d. Detach the lower balljoint, I used the socket handle between the LCA & Knuckle method.
e. Swing the knuckle assembly, supported by a jack, forward slightly. This will move the axle forward and away from the LCA area where the RR flange bolts reside.
f. I used a 19mm impact socket on a long 1/2" breaker bar while slightly pushing down on the LCA to loosen them. Once they are removed from the LCA, follow the remaining steps below.
4. Remove the self-locking nut (I replaced mine, torque to 40 lbf-ft), washer, and front side bushing.
5. Remove the radius rod, collar, rear side bushing, washer, and shim.
6. Install new bushings in the reverse order of removal, and note the following items:
-Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly.
-Note the direction of installation for the front side bushing and the rear side bushing.
When all suspension components have been reassembled, be sure to preload the suspension before torqueing all of their related fasteners.
Good Luck!
The old stock bushings were SOFT, just like in brian6speeds photos above. They were not cracked/split or deteriorated, just contorted from being compressed/used for the last 125K or so. 80K of those 120K have been with the added weight of a S/C'er, so that has to be factored into the overall effect on the whole suspension geometry as well. They needed to be replaced.
I added to step #3 to indicate what I had to do to get the RR arm off the LCA, YMMV.
The manual states the following:
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. Remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the clips and splash guard.
3. Remove the flange bolts to disconnect the radius rod from the LCA.
a. Detach the outer tie rod end.
b. Detach the endlink from the swaybar.
c. Detach the strut damper fork from the strut and LCA and set it aside.
d. Detach the lower balljoint, I used the socket handle between the LCA & Knuckle method.
e. Swing the knuckle assembly, supported by a jack, forward slightly. This will move the axle forward and away from the LCA area where the RR flange bolts reside.
f. I used a 19mm impact socket on a long 1/2" breaker bar while slightly pushing down on the LCA to loosen them. Once they are removed from the LCA, follow the remaining steps below.
4. Remove the self-locking nut (I replaced mine, torque to 40 lbf-ft), washer, and front side bushing.
5. Remove the radius rod, collar, rear side bushing, washer, and shim.
6. Install new bushings in the reverse order of removal, and note the following items:
-Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly.
-Note the direction of installation for the front side bushing and the rear side bushing.
When all suspension components have been reassembled, be sure to preload the suspension before torqueing all of their related fasteners.
Good Luck!
The following 2 users liked this post by zeta:
Neejay (11-09-2011),
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