Kendreth

I recently bought an 01 cl Type-s, my first import. i've built several cars (70 chevelle, 84 monte ss ect) and i have a general idea about what i need to do. i've put in a cold air intake and changed out the factory sound system, now what? what can i do to increase the preformance of the motor keeping it NA and no Major surgery? i want to keep the car looking stock for now.

OH, BTW did these cars come OEM with a "type-s" shift knob? ive seen pics and i dont have one in mine (vins ok though, it is a type-s, thought i got beat for a minute ) any other Type-S oem goodies i should have in the car? thanks for the help!!

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Underdrive pulleys,Headers are the most noticeable bolt-ons.

CH46ESeaKnight

How many miles you have on the car? Color?

Pretty much any bolt on. Headers, pulleys, CAI. Not a whole lot of support for the CLS.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

the cls is not an import... it was made less than 1000miles from you most likely.

get the p2r thermo gaskets and underdrive pulley and headers definitely..

then u may want bigger cat and exhaust system. (next on my list when i get the funds). that should get 15 hp and tq

1foxbody

Does the p2r thermo gaskets honestly help? I'm thinking about buying the one that goes in between the manifold and the throttle body one. I'm definitely going to buy the 3/4 throttle body spacer.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Since you have already have a CAI I'd recommend the following:

DC Headers
XLR8 High Flow Cat
UR Pulley Set
Upgraded rotors and pads
Upgraded suspension (need to know more about your budget and what you're looking for in your suspension)

Kendreth

thanks all, suspension and Brakes for next winter. the car is the black metalic got it with 90k on it.im still pretty pissed that the dealer i got the car from swaped out the shift knob and took the 17" rims that come with the type-s. he'll get his though. i need this car to be able to pass NH state inspection, are the DC headers, XLR8 cat passable? i keep hearing that the headers seem like the next step as far as HP gain for little work. also how bad is it to put the underdrive pullys in seems pretty tight in there. also can anyone recomend a rim tire set either 17" or 18" in the $800 to $1,100 range? looking at stiles thsat are crome spoke with black/gunmetal lips. again thanks everyone!!

Kendreth

BTW just looked up the DC headers, they only come for the cls in ceramic? they were $375 for the set any good? and whats the diffrence between DC and the CT Engineering set besides the name?

AARONSredTYPE-S

im surprised nobody is saying do the TB spacer and gaskets too, especially since they are cheap.

GK83

Get a bolt on exhaust system. Best is APEXI brand second is Comptech. Do not buy OBX brand i heard bad reviews about them.

I recently added Neuspeed front strut bar. Dude that thing is amazing. My CL hangs good on the turn now and more stiffer than stock. I highly recommeded Neuspeed strut bar.

for Cold air intake buy Injen or Aem.

Exhaust manifold is questionable if you live in California due to emission test. Unless the exhaust manifold has a CARB # on it.

For preventive maintennace:

Buy oil catch can on ebay. This will prevent or minimized oil inside the intake manifold plenum. Trust me you dont want oil mixed with fuel and air not a good combo.

Also this is important if you have AT transmission: Change AT FLUID every other oil change to extend the life of your transmission. You will need 3 quarts to do this it will cost you $8-$10 a quart from honda or acura.

I recommend B&M automatic transmission cooler. 15,000BTU. It will help cool your transmission fluid. It's only less than $100 for the kit.

Here is my 2001 CL type S upgrades:

Injen Red cold air intake.
Apexi dual exhaust "Sound good"
Neuspeed front strut bar
B&M racing automatic transmission cooler with custom fittings.
Oil catch can separator

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

They are actually a 409 stainless with a ceramic coating now. If you have an Auto CL/TL then these are the best bet.

There is a big difference between CT-E and any other headers for the CL/TL though. CT-E was first to market. Their header fits the 6 Speed and Auto. It is a 304 stainless steel all hand welded. It is CARB approved. It is higher quality than any of the headers on the market. It makes slightly more power than the other headers but most of the power gains are pretty similar among all the headers.

I'm not sure about NH inspections but the headers are not an emissions component. The cat is an emissions component though; our cat is a high flow cat which will also have tabs for the factory heat shields so it should pass.

The install on the pulleys is not easy.

Flipster23

iTrader: (15)

Neuspeed didnt feel any difference in the strut bar

get sway bars

The Tranny change every other oil change I heard that is to much shouldnt be changing it that often heard u just throw money away

Hmmm transmission cooler may look into that havent really seen anyone else running it

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

Besides the type-s shift knob and typs-s wheels, you should also have white faced guages, perferated leather seats, red lettered engine cover and rear emblem.

Kendreth

thanks thats the info i've been looking for! the dealer took the rims and the shift knob off, but i got a lawyer thats dealin with him (nice to have smart friends when your broke!!) i ordered a set of 17's but it would be great if i could get somone else to pay for them and keep the 16's for winter shoes. my engine cover is just black and silver but the valve cover has red 3.2 VTEC on it. is that what you mean?

i have heard that the throtle body spacer helps but they seem to come in a ton of sizes. whats the best to go with without having to remap the fuel.how about the throtle body itself. any noticable gains if i change it out? do i have to reprogram the fuel map if i do? also would one of them power programers be worth it? i don't want to mess with the comp unless i have to or i can get a good gain from it.

headers and cats are the next on my list i plan to do the suspension and brakes next winter. i wanted to put Mugen stuff into the motor (heads, pistons cams ect) but the don't make nothin for that motor but a thermostat and a 70$ oil cap (i bought em anyway, yea i know ). who's idea was that... anyway i plan on building this car up over the next couple of years (unless i hit the lottery then it will be done in a week!)
my long term plan is to try and get it up into the 380-400hp range and keep it NA and streetable but that will be when i have a place i can pull the motor and rebuild it. i know wishfull thinking...

thanks for all the help! ill take any ideas you can come up with!! i want this car to look like a stock cls, but be ignorant fast!

Kendreth

btw swaybars ect will be done this winter with the whole suspension system and brakes. and the CAI is an AEM, it made a diffrence. also can amyone tell me waht the # is for the fog light bulbs, autozone was clueless (not suprised there)

also looking for a single 12" sub setup (box, amp, spkr) anyone has one let me know!

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

lol it's funny how you didn't recommend one thing u don't sell/stock excelerate. on that note

OP don't waste ur money on UR pulley set. it's an arm and a leg and u can get the same exact thing from other brands for like half the price. I would however get the XLR8 cat and then look into a full catback. use that money towards the headers.. and i'd get DC if i were you assuming u don't wanna wait to find comptechs and u have an auto

I'd recommend for u to get the ATLP cat back from Heeltoeautomotive.

that's what i've been dying to get (a full, tested cat-back). However I went and bought 2 crested gecko lizards and a bunch of stuff for them so that's pretty much the exhaust right there. so i'll wait till my birthday in sept to get it.

but yea u got the intake, so headers is next.. then I would do the cat and exhaust at the same time after that.

there's really not a whole lot u can do, but intake, headers and full exhaust with the cat should make the car what u wish it was.

I already added about 30whp to mine and the exhaust with cat should bring me to my goal of around 250whp.. I am dying to see 250whp on the dyno!!!

nf3d0149ab

iTrader: (5)

Got one you can buy off me that I never installed.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

i got one

Flipster23

iTrader: (15)

does it do anything CLS prgression?

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

does it do anything LOL... buddy if this site only knew how much it did you all would swear by it.

I have mine hooked up to a gauge so i know what the temps are and even at 5 degreec C the trans can get to 190 degrees if ur stop and go all the time.

IMAGINE the summer.

when u drive u see the gauge temp just drop and drop. it's a beautiful thing.

if i only did it on my first trans replacement and not at the end when it had problems I'd be much better off.

but now i got all new clutches and components in there from levelten and the cooler so I should be good for some time to say the least.

I mounted it right behind the grille so it gets forced in air. probably the most satisfying mod I did, along with headers.

Flipster23

iTrader: (15)

hmmm may have to check it out.. and I didnt mean it like that I should have said have u noticed anything different with it on..

and thanks for ur write up on it LOL

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

adding the cooler doesn`t give you performance it maintains it.
once the cooler is installed, u`ll just have a transmission for a lot longer.

Flipster23

iTrader: (15)

O yea I know that..

I just want the damn thing to last me a while

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

Bulb is 194, same as the door lights, map lights, trunk light and license plate lights.

GK83

If you lowered and modified your suspension strut bar probably dont make any difference. If your running stock suspension and added just neuspeed front strut bar it's noticeable.

Sway bar front and rear kit from eibach is good too i heard.

As far as transmission cooler B&M is the best brand out there. Actually this are same exact tranny cooler comptech are selling except they just wanna rip you off and charge you 3X more for there name. lol what a scam. I hate comptech for being overpriced.

You can also buy B&M transmission temperature guage kit so you can monitor the temperature it's nice to have...

GK83

Any of you had this following upgrades and what are the power results?

P2R throttle body spacer does this increase HP?

P2R plenum?

OBX or P2R Fuel rail?

Apexi v-tech controller?

Zex air filter for nitrous port?

AARONSredTYPE-S

get wider better tires and good suspension. that way you can put the power down better than wasting it away like a stock car does. 235/45 tires gave me 3/10 in the quarter on my old stock auto. 15.1>14.8, then put a custom 3" cold air intake on and removed my mid pipe on the exhaust and got eibach suspension, made me go down to a 14.59..Just a little fyi.
Headers and pulley are the biggest ADD for bolt on power though...gl

OperationDarkie

iTrader: (1)

The cause of the transmission problems is in the design of the transmission housing which was not sized correctly causing blockage of transmission fluid reaching 3rd clutch pack and beyond.

To fix this, Honda/Acura, mills the port so that sufficient flows gets to the clutch packs, adding a cooler may prolong the life of the transmission, but the problem is still there.

And yes a service technician at Acura whom which I generally get my information from told me the full story behind it, because of the amount of 2001-2003 Acuras that have been coming lately.

GK83

Dude you did not answer the question. I know lowering your car will give u aerodynamic and better handling but thats not what im asking see the questions aGain!!!

Kendreth

oh yea tranny cooler is def up high on my list of things to do. id rather spend $150 now than 3-4k on a tranny later.
i was told that the trans in the car i got was rebuilt and beefed up at 45k miles, i was giving the car a good once over the other day cause it as finally nice enough and saw that the tranny fluid was dark. so i empyed it to change it and the filter and WOW it was as dark as oil thats been run for 15k! no bits or pieces in it so i think its good. changed it and the filter for good stuff, big diffrence in shifts.

Question, do they make stall converters for these transmissions like they do for chevy/ford? i had a 2800 stall converter in a 84 montecarlo and it was awesome, would break the tires loose through 3rd when you kept it to the floor.

Also is there anyway to make it so i have control of the 1st to 2nd shift when in autostick? i hate that it shifts to 2nd by itself . i know it makes the autostick idiot proof but for thoes of us who know how to drive, it shifts way too soon.

thanks everyone for the input, im looking into the legality of the exaust (looks ok as long as the o2sensors stay) so im looking into a header back exaust, i just need to find a good sounding muffler that i like (im very picky about the exaust note, no weedwacker for me thanks) i should have some pics posted soon!!

Kendreth

OH!! btw for thoes of you who didnt see the earlier rant about the lack of mugen parts for this motor, i have a friend with a garage and matchine shop who is looking into the possibility that the mugen parts for the accord type-r can be modified via CNC machining to properly fit the J32A2 motor. (no hack job this one, either it fits perfectly with machining or forget it)

Heres to hoping!!

OperationDarkie

iTrader: (1)

Not worth it and isn't the accord type r a 4 banger last I checked it had a engine similar to the s2000

Kendreth

yes the mugen built car does. but they have a head upgrade for the 6th gen accord J30A1 motor and other parts to retrofit an american accord v-6 to a mugen type-r. the heads are diffrent but the valvetrain is similar its all just diffrent diameter valves and associated parts.

it aint costin me nothin so why not see if it can happen.

next time do your homework...

GK83

Is the honda accord v6 exhaust and headers same as the 2001 cl? Does anybody know?

GK83

Im talking about fifth gen accord v6 98-02

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Link to these parts?

PS - Ease up on the attitude.

The 98-02 is the 6th gen Accord, and the headers will fit. The exhaust will require modifications.

Flipster23

iTrader: (15)

calm down there buddy

Fixed

OperationDarkie

iTrader: (1)

mugen on a car made strictly for usdm seems like a waste to me since it isn't even option in japan seems like like a waste of money to me, but to each his own.

Kendreth

all about the Quality of the parts, its just an experament on a motor from a rolled 01 cls, if i can be done why not have a better flowing set of heads for the motor. i cant find any high end aftermarket internals for this motor so im gonna see if the parts for the J30A1 motor can be modified.
also has anyone ever heard of anyone boreing (sp?) out one of these motors? something small like 0.030?

and the type-rsetup i found was from king motorsports.

Thanks guys

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Nope. No such thing as boring out this motor.

But in seriousness, you can bore 1MM over and run the J37 crank and rods and that gets you a 3.7l. Or J37 crank and rods on stock bore (safer) gets you a 3.6l (which I have). The block cannot be safely bored out further then 90mm, which would be for the 3.7l, unless you plan on sleeving the block. If you go with the 90mm bore, you can't run boost and shouldnt run nitrous either, unless of course its sleeved.

I dont know why you are wasting your time with the J30 parts. If you want high end parts, call high end companies and they will make them for you. Is it worth it? Depends on what your plans are. For a normal daily driven car, Acura internals (which are "forged", but not for strength, for weight) will be good enough. Pauter and Carillo makes rods. CP makes pistons. LA makes sleeves. The only thing we are missing are cams. And the J30 cams are absolutely not the answer.

If you are looking for quick, cheap power, get a 3.5l crank and rods and you now have a 3.5l. The torque gain is more then welcomed. There is a thread in the FAQ section with alot of info regarding it.