Ive got an 03 CL that the diver side power window stopped working on. I looked on here & thought it was the motor/regulator which I got & replaced but it didnt fix the issue. The master switch on the drivers side will operate the passenger motor but nothing on the drivers side. Would the switch be the next thing to replace or am I missing something??? Any help would be great

 

Check the fuses but sounds like that won't be it. I would check the switch next. If you have a voltmeter, you can test the switch that way.

 

Ok so I got a replacement driver side power window switch & replaced the original one but still not luck. The passenger side works fine but no movement or noise at all from the driver side. What am I missing??? I did check the fuses on each side of the dash but theyre all good too.

 

Might have a break in the wiring? Check the harness connecting the regulator and see if you get power with a voltmeter when you hit the switch.

 

by any chance does your memory button beep when you press it? This happens to my passenger window and moving the driver seat fixes it somehow, as weird as this sounds.

 

Ill try the seat thing. I did run straight power to the window to get it up when I replaced the regulator so I know the motor/regulator works. And it stopped working suddenly too.

 

Check the power window control unit...

 

My memory seat button does beep. Whats the power window control module? And where is it?

 

It's mounted inside the door and looks like a little box with an 18P connector....

 

Ok. The guy at the Acura dealership told me that had to do with the memory seat controls & not the window. Thanks. How can I test that???

 

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the power windows?

 

Bump for any help

 

Ok so I just spent the last 2 hours taking both doors apart & trying to figure out whats up with the drivers window. I have 15 volts on the passenger side when the switch is activated but nothing on the drivers side. Im checking power at the connection for the window motor. Red/yellow & red/ blue on the drivers side & Blue & blue/black on the passenger side. Im wondering if the switch I bought was bad. Does anyone know what the wires coming from the switch are that correspond to each side. They arent the same as whats at the motor connection. This is really freakin frustrating

 

Here's info on 03 CL Window test:







Good luck.

 

Awesome thank you.

 

My car just developed the exact same problem yesterday. Have not done anything yet. Wondering what solution you eventually found. If its something I could do w/o removing door panel, that would be good to know.

 

Update: Motor and regulator are fine. Can run up and down with battery charger. There appears not to be any voltage to the 6 pin connector when I run the switch. It appears that wiring goes from master switch to a control module and then the motor. So the problem could be the switch or in the control module. Does anyone know which pins/wires coming out of the master switch should be hot when running the left (drivers side)switch? Both parts are pretty pricey and I don't want to buy something I don't need. Any test procedure or info would be helpful and appreciated. BTW I have checked all the fuses.

 

Update: Downloaded the TL service manual from Weezes link in another thread. Went through diagnostic procedures for the drivers side switch assembly (luckily wires were colored the same). Switch does what it is supposed to. This must mean its in the control module (I hope). Have ordered a new one and will see when its gets here if problem is solved.

 

Control Module fixed it. Thought there was another problem though, until I figured out the door panel connector that feeds the lights needs to be plugged in to provide power to the module. Weird wiring setup.

 

hotclick56 do you have a test for the passenger side window?

 

sorry I haven't been at this site for sometime. l'l check this afternoon & post it here if it's in the service manual.

 

Here you go.

 

Thanks!

I was just getting ready to throw parts at it!

Its warm out and I want my windows down!

 

Let me know if it's your motor that failed. I have an extra motor from my driver's side from when I replaced my regulator. I just have to look for it. Not sure if it fits tho.

 

Opened the passenger door and completed the window test. Window works. Tested switch and that works, so I reconnected the switch and that works. Driver's door works too. I did not find a problem so I will use it.

However I did learn that If it does not work I use the door courtesy lights for 12V to move the window up.

 

Rebirth of a thread....
I'm working on my driver's side window, a 2001 CL S-Type, and it appears I may have some different connectors/plugs.
On what I assume is the control module, I have a 20P connector and it also looks like for the power window connector, I have a 4P connector.
Is this just a difference between an '03 and an '01?
Or might I be looking at the wrong things?
Thanks.

 

A couple pics...

 

Pin out of the P4 connector would be helpful as well, if anyone has it.
If this is the motor connector, my "guess" would be the red/yellow wire is +12VDC.

 

A bump for my question(s). Hopefully someone has a little info?
Thanks.

 

Not sure if this is the right diagram because i can't till from your pic if the P4 actually have 4 wires or 2 wires. So confirm by matching the wire's colors.

Regardless, there is no "+12VDC" for the red/yel wire per say bc the polarity changes from pos to neg, depending on whether the window is moving up or down.

In the diagram to test the window motor simply supply both pos and neg power wires to the "red/blu" and the "red/yel".

Ie... hot to red/blu and neg to red/yel to test window movement. Then reverse polarity to move window in opposite direction.

 

It's got 4 wires.
I plugged in the control module and turned the car on so the windows had voltage to operate. The voltage at the red/blu and red/yel wires (output from the control module) read either +11.88 or -11.88, depending on whether I was trying to move the window up or down. It appears from this that the control module is functioning, unless I need to consider a possible load from the motor(?)
It looks like I have a bad motor, any other concurrence?
Thanks for the diagram acls.

 

Not so fast, it needs a ground. On the window motor side with the P4 disconnected. Supply a hot and a neg to the window motor to the two 11.88v wires... again window motor side (P4 disconnected).

Ie... hot to red/blu and neg to red/yel to test window movement. Then reverse polarity to move window in opposite direction.

 

^ You need to test the w motor directly bc it could be the switch thats bad.

 

I can rig up the 12 VDC and see if the motor runs the window up and down but I would think by operating the switch and changing the polarity, that would indicate the switch was working.....

 

You can do it that way. Then 1 of the 2 pos should change to neg and visa versa depending on the dirction of switch.

Since you are already at the door with everything in front of you, I would test the motor too bc that is confirming the work.

 

Got to pause the operation until I can get something to connect the 12 volts to the connector pins. It's a pretty tight fit and easy to short things out.

 

It's best to confirm the work bc we all know that assumption is the mother of all F-U.

Plus you don't want to order a replacement part based on an assumption when you can easily make a positive confirmation whether is yea or nay.

 

Was finally able to get back to the window, had to get into Grandpa mode for the first time last week, a new grandson.
I installed a couple connectors onto the motor plug wires and added the 12 volts, changing polarity. Nothing happened, just a click or two, no movement up or down.
Anyone have a link to a decent power window motor repair video online?
Thanks.

 

^ I would just get a used one at a U-Pull It or salvage yard and test it there by doing the same thing before buying it.

 

Finally got back to the window.
I went the quicker route and just bought a new one off of Amazon, $60 delivered. I found a video on removal/installation which was helpful.
I got the old part out and the new one in, took maybe 15 minutes, not including the door panel removal.
The window works now.
Thanks for the help guys.