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There's only 3 bolts holding the mount. Two on the bottom connecting the mount to the frame and one bolt on top connecting the mount to the bracket. I'm pretty sure the two bolts you're talking about are what connect the bracket to the engine.
the way it looks there are definitely two bolts on the top of the bracket and the mount is only attached to the frame...will take a pic tomorrow after work
the two bolts with the red paint on the heads is what i am referring to
(NOT MY PIC BTW)
Those two bolts on top with the red paint are what connect the bracket to the engine. The other bolt directly above the mount with red on the side is what connects the mount to the bracket.
Look at this mount diagram. The mount is obviously #10. There are two #52 bolts holding the bottom of the mount to the frame. There is one #28 bolt holding the top of the mount to the bracket. When I replaced mine, I only removed these three bolts and didn't mess with the bracket or bracket bolts at all. The bracket (#4) is mounted to the engine by the two top bolts (#27).
Those two bolts on top with the red paint are what connect the bracket to the engine. The other bolt directly above the mount with red on the side is what connects the mount to the bracket.
Look at this mount diagram. The mount is obviously #10. There are two #52 bolts holding the bottom of the mount to the frame. There is one #28 bolt holding the top of the mount to the bracket. When I replaced mine, I only removed these three bolts and didn't mess with the bracket or bracket bolts at all. The bracket (#4) is mounted to the engine by the two top bolts (#27).
There is another piece that is under #4 that the two bolts on top go to. That's the part I need...smh I ordered #4 and the mount. I'll be contacting Delray today
Glad you got it done OP! If I remember correctly one of my bolts was also corroded, while the other was fine.
There's only 3 bolts holding the mount. Two on the bottom connecting the mount to the frame and one bolt on top connecting the mount to the bracket. I'm pretty sure the two bolts you're talking about are what connect the bracket to the engine.
had to drill out the two top bolts from from the engine bracket all is good now with that situation
What do bad engine mounts result in? I saw some youtube videos of cars with bad motor mounts and it showed the entire engine moving when switching gears.
Do bad engine cause vibration? Or do they absorb impact when going over bumps? My car is uncomfortable when going over bumps. It doesn't really make any noise except one fairly loud thud noise for each bump. Sometimes this happens on small imperfections on the road. I recently replaced my sway bar end links, but to no avail. My shocks and struts are also brand new. I haven't had time to check out the motor mounts yet, but just wondering if that really has an impact when going over bumps.
I don't think your question was ever answered. Bad mounts will cause excessive vibration, and noise over bumps. If your car has over 80,000 miles on it, it's time for mounts.
I don't think your question was ever answered. Bad mounts will cause excessive vibration, and noise over bumps. If your car has over 80,000 miles on it, it's time for mounts.
Just now searching around and found this thread. Lots of good info here.
Except my car has 172k miles and the previous owner had the front and rear and side motor mounts replaced by dealer along with the TB/WP service at 105k. (though I'm looking at the actual receipt the they only list two part numbers for the front and rear mounts, no side mount parts listed....but the service advisor wording says "Front and side motor mounts replace" but only list part numbers for the front and rear mounts.....hmmm)
Guessing may be time to check my mounts again as it has been about 70k miles.
I'm thinking I may stretch it out to until she needs another TB/WP service to get everything done at that time near when shes at 200k or so...
Guessing may be time to check my mounts again as it has been about 70k miles.
I'm going to make it a 25,000-30,000 mile checkup on mounts after seeing what a difference new tranny mounts make. I'd wager what most think are tranny issues would be resolved with new mounts, especially if they've never been changed.
I'm going to make it a 25,000-30,000 mile checkup on mounts after seeing what a difference new tranny mounts make. I'd wager what most think are tranny issues would be resolved with new mounts, especially if they've never been changed.
Dang good point. I was reading about that in the other trans thread about the switches. I'll need to take a look at the trans mount. Looks like most problem is with the top mount and bottom mount shouldn't be an issue so that's reassuring.
I'm going to make it a 25,000-30,000 mile checkup on mounts after seeing what a difference new tranny mounts make. I'd wager what most think are tranny issues would be resolved with new mounts, especially if they've never been changed.
MonkeyTrucker - would you please remind which transmission mounts you purchased? I've changed the motor mounts with OEM and there is a big improvement, but am pretty sure the transmission mounts need to be changed too. Happy to buy the ones off eBay if someone else has already had success with them... thanks!
MonkeyTrucker - would you please remind which transmission mounts you purchased? I've changed the motor mounts with OEM and there is a big improvement, but am pretty sure the transmission mounts need to be changed too. Happy to buy the ones off eBay if someone else has already had success with them... thanks!
Engine Mounts are #8, 11, & 12.
Transmission Mounts are #15, 16, & 17.
I'd also suggest at least the heat shields for the new front/rear motor mounts #10 & 14. I would imagine that the rubber heat shields aren't as effective after being subjected to engine heat for 100,000+ miles.
Engine Mounts are #8, 11, & 13.
Transmission Mounts are #22, 23, & 26.
You manual guys may also want to replace #12 as well, I would if I had a manual.
I'd also suggest at least the heat shields for the new front/rear motor mounts #10 & 15. I would imagine that the rubber heat shields aren't as effective after being subjected to engine heat for 100,000+ miles.
I reused my bolts with no issues, they're appeared fine and weren't corroded at all and as I've seen others.
Last edited by MonkeyTrucker; 11-27-2015 at 06:37 PM.
For those curious about the stress of transmission mounts, here is a pic of mine. The one in two parts is a lower mount, all were severely stressed with fractures and tears, you just can't see them since there is no weight being applied to them when out.
Here are the front / rear engine mounts; I had replaced the side a few weeks earlier before deciding to do them all. The side engine mount looked pretty much like the picture in the OP:
Front control arm compliance bushings, stress fractures evident while on car, no complete breakage:
Bonus Pictures - I did the following over a weekend, starting late Friday night and wrapping up on Sunday with cleaning my tools; roughly 14-16 hours at a leisure pace, mostly worked during the night (much cooler):
A-Spec suspension
Rear SPC Camber Arms
Front & Rear Endlinks
Front & Rear Engine Mounts
Three Transmission Mounts
ATLP V2-R J-Pipe
RV6 HFPCs (since removed again and hollowed out)
Progress Rear Sway Bar
Front Control Arm Compliance Bushings
Repaint lower metal battery tray (RBP of course...great opportunity while replacing transmission mounts)
New wheels & tires were installed following Monday.
Car was back on "blocks" the next weekend awaiting rear control arms (seized toe adjusting bolts / bushings).
Just sharing the "love" I put back in the TL to get the new car feel back with a little added performance. Just under $4,000 in maintenance and mods.
ATLP V2-R J-Pipe:
Rear A-Spec suspension & SPC camber arms:
I didn't remove rear deck for suspension install, plenty of room, C & S wrenches for the win:
Some of the parts & tools:
Car on stands, after a while you find yourself sliding in/out the underside without much thought of your car smashing you:
New wheels & tires:
Homemade Garage ... for privacy from nosy neighbors:
Last edited by MonkeyTrucker; 11-27-2015 at 07:32 PM.
I've been searching around for aftermarket 6MT (2004) motor mounts, but have only found one for the rear mount on ebay. It does not have the vacuum fitting:
There are plenty of aftermarket mounts for the AT.
Has anyone found aftermarket mounts for the 6MT?
I'm also wondering what the difference is between the OEM mounts for 6MT vs AT. The part #'s are different and the AT mounts are more expensive than the 6MT mounts:
________________6MT______________________AT____________
rear mount----50810-SEP-A12 $126----------50810-SEP-A02 $143
front mount---50830-SEP-A13 $123----------50830-SEP-A21 $158
side mount----50820-SEP-A12 $53-----------50820-SEP-A21 $57
Why are the AT mounts more expensive? Are they "beefier" due to the extra weight of the AT?
Any idea if there would be any issues using the aftermarket AT mounts in a 6MT?
Last edited by nfnsquared; 11-29-2015 at 12:43 PM.
What is the side mount part number, it can't be the same as the front mount and 100 bucks cheaper for the AT.
04-06 part numbers are in the post above I linked to via the hyperlinks.
Simply hover your mouse over the relating part number I've listed. Parts get superseded a lot, so listing the part numbers wouldn't be helpful years down the road.
Simply choose the hyperlink based upon either an AT or MT.
NFS also listed the three engine mounts and part numbers for AT/MT. Per his list, the part numbers all differ between At/MT for engine mounts.
Originally Posted by nfnsquared
Why are the AT mounts more expensive? Are they "beefier" due to the extra weight of the AT?
Any idea if there would be any issues using the aftermarket AT mounts in a 6MT?
Yes, NFS, I'd say that going with AT mounts may be a "beefier" setup, not a bad thing per se, better than going with aftermarket for beefiness via solid mounts (too much vibrations from what I've read). The packages on eBay that I've seen and linked to in the past looked identical to OEM, even having the vacuum ports.
I'd replace mine in the future with those found on eBay. Wasn't aware of those listings when I tackled mine.
I'd say demand plays the biggest part in the higher prices of the AT, since more are on the road and the MTs are white ponies.
Just like OEM 4G spoilers and accessories are a drop in the bucket compared to the 3G.
Last edited by MonkeyTrucker; 12-01-2015 at 05:06 PM.
07-22-2015, 09:20 PM
[/QUOTE]
Just under $4,000 in maintenance and mods.
