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Tried to jump my ac clutch but it still won't engage. Freon is low so I want to add some more. Any ideas on what to replace to get the clutch to kick in?
I just went through a similar thing with my wife's CR-V. Ended up changing out the field coil and clutch on it. So far no recurrence of the issue (AC would just not work sometimes). Even if you are low on refrigerant, which you may not be, then jumping the relay should engage the clutch.
In my case when I jumped the relay socket there was current flowing to the field coil, as evidenced by some sparks when jumped, but it would not click/engage reliably especially when hot. So it was either the clutch gap was to big and/or a failing/weak coil. @100Kmiles the clutch was looking pretty bad.
Back to the TL... As long as you are positive you are jumping the correct terminals (terminals 1 and 2 on compressor relay) and that fuse #12 (7.5A) in under hood fuse box is good, then the next thing to do would be to make sure there is voltage at the connector on the compressor. If there is then it's probably the coil and/or clutch. How many miles?
See this post about the field coil and clutch. https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...-guide-772614/ This job sucks (at least on the CR-V it did). Luckily I have a really good local indy in CT I farm crap like this out to. I'll do a lot on my own but this was worth letting someone with far more tools and experience handle.
I know that if the system is too low on freon, the clutch won't engage. Some DIY kits will tell you that if this happens, to add some freon to the system with the AC running on high max cold and see if it will kick on then.
I already tried adding a can of r-134a but the can doesnt go in. I know that sounds weird but I hooked up the can and held the lever and after 10 min, the can is still full. I have no idea why. I hooked up my gauges and it said its low, so I guess ill get a seperate can to see if that goes in.
So I just replace the fuse with a wire? The fuse isn't blown, I thought I had to put the wire to the battery to get juice?
Nope.
Originally Posted by maknwar
The 7.5 fuse is ok, tested it with ohm meter. Jumping pin 1 and 2 on the snowflake fuse does nothing. It has 103k miles in it, what can I check now?
If you are sure it's pins 1 and 2 then either the wiring to the compressor or the field coil/clutch are bad. You should be doing this with the car off and be listening for the click of the clutch engaging/disengaging.
Originally Posted by acvega
I know that if the system is too low on freon, the clutch won't engage. Some DIY kits will tell you that if this happens, to add some freon to the system with the AC running on high max cold and see if it will kick on then.
True BUT what this means is if low the car will not energize the system (relays, fans, etc.). If you bypass the relay with a jumper the clutch should engage as long as the fuse isn't blown and the wiring from the relay to the compressor is good. Never leave the jumper there. It's just to troubleshoot the compressor clutch.
Originally Posted by maknwar
I already tried adding a can of r-134a but the can doesnt go in. I know that sounds weird but I hooked up the can and held the lever and after 10 min, the can is still full. I have no idea why. I hooked up my gauges and it said its low, so I guess ill get a seperate can to see if that goes in.
Not quite. You need the clutch engaged on the compressor with the engine running for any refrigerant to be "pulled" into the system low side. Also pressures are only valid with the system (compressor) running.
One other important thing I forgot to ask you is if the condenser fan is going on when you turn on the AC? The car will energize it's relay at the same time as the clutch relay. If the fan is turning on/off with you turning AC on/off then there is probably sufficient charge in the system. Otherwise the car would not try and turn on the fan and clutch. Either way if you properly jumper the clutch relay socket 1/2 the compressor clutch should engage if it is healthy.
Here'e the part you aren't going to like... I'm getting the feeling you need to bring your car to a pro. It sounds like you are trying to do the old "dump a can in" which may, or may not, end well. If you over/under charge your system you will probably end up in a worse place than you are already.
You didn't answer about if the condenser fan is coming on when you turn on your AC. That's pretty important to know since if it isn't then something else is wrong.
Originally Posted by maknwar
I'm only getting 6v to my stator coil when I test it, shouldn't it be 12v+?
Where are you measuring? I would think you should see higher as you say. 12V or so.
Originally Posted by maknwar
And I'm getting 0 ohms
Again, where are you measuring and what setting are you using on your VOM. Manual says coil should be 3.9-4.3 Ohms at 68 Deg F
Well, if the condenser fan is turning on with the AC but no clutch engaged (even with a jumped clutch relay) then it really sounds like your compressor clutch and/or wiring to it is bad. You'll have to come to your own conclusion though as ultimately you are the one doing the troubleshooting and I can't be sure since I'm not there. There's been a lot of action in other threads about the clutch and field coil so take a look at those too.
well, if you do go to the trouble of replacing the clutch set you really should do the coil (stator set) while you are in there. It doesn't look like a quick job so if the coil is failing you will need to do it all over again.
Well the stator coil is fried I know that. It's melted! Can't get the snap ring back on for the life of me. I'm going to have to take the compressor out if I can't get it on today.
GoT it all back together and the ac works! Thanks For your help Adobeman.
excellent! Glad it worked out. I really thought it would but it's always a bit tough being certain when troubleshooting over the web.
Originally Posted by anx1300c
So did you change the clutch and field coil, or just the coil? I am so dreading this job.
IMO do both if. Certainly if you are planning on keeping the car for some time. I know it adds a lot of parts cost but if you have a lot of time/miles on your current clutch it's probably worn. The place I get parts on line will accept returns on *unopened non-electrcal* parts so perhaps buy from a place with similar policies and have a clutch set on hand and decide once you see how yours looks. "Looks" means measuring the gap before you remove (I bet it's over) and seeing how both the mating surfaces on the pulley and clutch disk look.
You didn't answer about if the condenser fan is coming on when you turn on your AC. That's pretty important to know since if it isn't then something else is wrong.
I just replaced my clutch, compressor pulley and compressor coil.
The condenser fan is not coming on and the clutch is not engaging when i turn on the a/c. I checked all my fuses and they are fine.
If you are sure it's pins 1 and 2 then either the wiring to the compressor or the field coil/clutch are bad. You should be doing this with the car off and be listening for the click of the clutch engaging/disengaging.
True BUT what this means is if low the car will not energize the system (relays, fans, etc.). If you bypass the relay with a jumper the clutch should engage as long as the fuse isn't blown and the wiring from the relay to the compressor is good. Never leave the jumper there. It's just to troubleshoot the compressor clutch.
Hate to bring a dead thread up from the grave but I like to save time, what if I switched the ac relay with my radiator fan relay and the clutch didn't engage but when I used a paper clip as a jumper the clutch does? my radiator and car hasn't overheated on me whatsoever recently.
It means that for some reason computer doesn't turn on the clutch. Most likely you're low on refrigerant.
I had a shop refill my system with refrigerant about a month and a half ago when my ac wasn't working initially, they said my fuse kept getting blown but when I looked at it myself last week that wasn't the case. I guess I need a new compressor?
The fact that system was filled recently doesn't mean it still is. It might had been filled yesterday and be empty today if leak is big enough.
If bypassing the A/C clutch relay turns on the A/C clutch, any everything else except for the A/C clutch works, then I don't think there is anything wrong with the system electrically. Chance is that wire from PCM to the fusebox is bad, but it's a small chance.
07-19-2015, 09:43 PM
