anyone trade their tls in at bell audi?
01-09-2013, 10:06 AM
#1
anyone trade their tls in at bell audi?
Saw a tls i love at bell audi in edison nj want to buy but it being in nj and because of sandy im worried about it being a flood car.
01-09-2013, 11:30 AM
#3
You never know, just because they're running a business doesn't necessarily mean they have ethics or brains. There's countless stories of people scamming dealerships and vice versa, more of the latter obviously. Some that come to mind are the guy who tricked a dealership into thinking his non Type-S was a Type-S with some rebadging, and cheap/simple exterior mods. Needless to say that means they weren't even competent enough to varify model with the VIN. Or other dealerships that claim ignorance when customers claim their certified pre-owned vehicle had been in an accident(s). Vehicle can't be certified unless its clean title. Again either they didn't check the VIN throughly, didn't use a paint meter reader or didn't check if frame had been worked on.
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justnspace (01-09-2013)
01-09-2013, 03:21 PM
#5
A6 and TL
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Its a good dealership. They check the trades pretty carefully and it would be a big hassle for them to take in a flood damaged car and try to pass it off. If someone did trade in a flood damaged car and it somehow went under the radar they would auction it and take a loss.
Last edited by Aretardedorange; 01-09-2013 at 03:24 PM.
01-16-2013, 06:40 AM
#7
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
iTrader: (1)
When I worked for Acura I was the certified pre-owned tech. I did new and used car prep with customer cars when i got slow or the dealer was busy. There was a lot of things sold or at least put on the lot that I highly suggested against for obvious reasons.. I started taking a sheet of paper and writing down the condition of interior, exterior, underbody, tires, brakes and fluids w/filters. This also included if there was anything on the dash board, lights and noises from road test. I did this to cover myself since the manager at the time was doing in a sense pay cuts, where what was suppose to be done was getting ignored or half ass. When doing brakes Acura highly Recs cutting the rotors, I was told to do the fronts only and pad slap the rears.
There is a cpo sheet that we fill out and it clearly says what ha to be done and we fill in the specs after the work is completed. We do run a vin stat, but a lot of the cars I've seen repainted or damaged never had an issue reported. Most of the cars were sent off to get painted, by 30-50k lease returns your bound in this area to have some sort of body damage. The best was the 3 Rdx which got entirely repainted by an outside shop (before returning off lease or trade in) the paint was extremely rough, run off mismatched terrible work I told the sales department whole sale , but they ended up having to detail shop wet sand and buff the paint. 5 months later the new owner brought back the vehicle. I got blamed but what saved me was the notes I saved and stapled to the back of each repair.
I've learned that no matter what you do, how many extra steps you take to protect yourself and even the dealership from selling a terrible vehicle your always fucked in the end. They are going to do whatever puts money in their pocket, techs are just there to do work ad get cut. Every car comes in with an issue, there is no perfect. Perfect is off the factory plant and even that isn't perfect anymore. I caught 4 mdx new trucks that were repainted most likely damaged while moving them from the boat to the trucks. I have no more faith in the dealers or at least the one I unfortunately worked for.
Best of luck, when it comes to buying anything even new , it's all about paying attention to details. Look at the paint at all sorts of angles and lighting, look for missing under hood stickers ect, look for corrosion and underbody rust. Check under the seats to see if the seat frames are rusty (clear indication of flood) check the fuse box and under steering column area (above gas pedals) for any aftermarket, extra wiring. Check trunk and spare tire area, all electronics and while on road test radio off and listen to anything abnormal. Check for brake pulsation steering or suspension slop, cruise control, lights ect. Basic run around this is about 20-30 mins.
There is a cpo sheet that we fill out and it clearly says what ha to be done and we fill in the specs after the work is completed. We do run a vin stat, but a lot of the cars I've seen repainted or damaged never had an issue reported. Most of the cars were sent off to get painted, by 30-50k lease returns your bound in this area to have some sort of body damage. The best was the 3 Rdx which got entirely repainted by an outside shop (before returning off lease or trade in) the paint was extremely rough, run off mismatched terrible work I told the sales department whole sale , but they ended up having to detail shop wet sand and buff the paint. 5 months later the new owner brought back the vehicle. I got blamed but what saved me was the notes I saved and stapled to the back of each repair.
I've learned that no matter what you do, how many extra steps you take to protect yourself and even the dealership from selling a terrible vehicle your always fucked in the end. They are going to do whatever puts money in their pocket, techs are just there to do work ad get cut. Every car comes in with an issue, there is no perfect. Perfect is off the factory plant and even that isn't perfect anymore. I caught 4 mdx new trucks that were repainted most likely damaged while moving them from the boat to the trucks. I have no more faith in the dealers or at least the one I unfortunately worked for.
Best of luck, when it comes to buying anything even new , it's all about paying attention to details. Look at the paint at all sorts of angles and lighting, look for missing under hood stickers ect, look for corrosion and underbody rust. Check under the seats to see if the seat frames are rusty (clear indication of flood) check the fuse box and under steering column area (above gas pedals) for any aftermarket, extra wiring. Check trunk and spare tire area, all electronics and while on road test radio off and listen to anything abnormal. Check for brake pulsation steering or suspension slop, cruise control, lights ect. Basic run around this is about 20-30 mins.
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HeartTLs (01-16-2013)
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