CLOSED WTB: forged J-Series Rods
WantedEngine - Internals
Nov 18, 2019, 10:10 PM | Replies: 6 | Views: 566
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Price
$0 - $500
- Location Sparks, NV, 89431, USA
- Condition Used
Description:
Looking for forged J-series rods. It's for a J35 build. J35A4. Wondering if anybody had any good used ones laying around. I'll by new otherwise but was hoping to score a nice used set for a bit less money.
Rev's not so much my concern as boost. I don't think I've had the thing over 5,500 every but it's on 7 lbs boost. Lasted a long, long time the one day it gave up. Bought another wrecking yard motor and it lasted about 25 minutes before it gave up. This is motor number 3... Off road application. It's in a sand car. Runs on E85, RC750 injectors, AEM controller and 7.5 lbs boost. 390 hp to the ground. Went for a long, long time on factory stuff so I can't help but think it doesn't need just a little bit of help and it will be fine. Hard to stomach a grand for forged rods but I can't have it failing anymore either. Thanks for the advice on RLX rods.
Ben
Ben
I see. Well, the extra beef on the RLX rods are for a heavier piston. So, if using a lighter piston from say a J35A8, then higher revs can be achieved.
I don't think your problem is the rods. It's probably the pistons, but when something breaks, it's hard to determine from the resulting carnage.
I assume you are using a block with the older block-to-trans bolt pattern? That means that you don't have the factory oil squirters for cooling the pistons.
Nor do you have the factory pistons with notches to accommodate said oil squirters.
I don't think your problem is the rods. It's probably the pistons, but when something breaks, it's hard to determine from the resulting carnage.
I assume you are using a block with the older block-to-trans bolt pattern? That means that you don't have the factory oil squirters for cooling the pistons.
Nor do you have the factory pistons with notches to accommodate said oil squirters.
Man alive!! Whish I had known that awhile ago... No, it's about a 2004 Honda Odyssey take out. J35A4. These additional oil squirters you speak of sound very handy. It's what came with the car so I have not bothered to change it. Poking around these forums there are hundreds of combinations with J32 this and J38 that, I don't have enough knowledge of what fits what so I've been sticking with what it had. First time the rods actually twisted together. It was pretty neat actually how they got all bent up. Second time the timing belt actually skipped a couple teeth and my valves kissed the pistons but not bad considering. There was significant rod and main bearing ware the second time. Enough so that the oil looked like chunky glitter with all the bearing material in there. Rods were ok. Second motor actually had factory forged rods. They are still in good shape. I don't know how to attach a photo or I would. They seem like good rods but I can't afford to get towed in anymore.
I've read about putting a little washer in the spring of the oil pump on these 4 cyl Honda motor oil pumps, to increase the oil pressure just a bit. Have you seen this done on the v6 motors?
I've read about putting a little washer in the spring of the oil pump on these 4 cyl Honda motor oil pumps, to increase the oil pressure just a bit. Have you seen this done on the v6 motors?
Rods
I know you are looking for 3.5s but i have the 3.7 from the j37a1 (09 mdx) also have a j37a4 crankshaft (has the lip that needs to be machined off [from an 2011 tls]) may not be what you are looking for but thought id give you a shout.





