2013 Rear Deck Subwoofer Upgrade
08-01-2017, 08:20 PM
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2013 Rear Deck Subwoofer Upgrade
Hello ILX community, I have a 2013 ILX premium package and was looking to upgrade the factory 8" inch rear deck sub for a aftermarket 8" sub. I love my music and the factory subwoofer just doesn t quite cut it for me, I have air suspension so I have a tank in my trunk and other things so I don't want a sub in the trunk and want to keep everything looking stock. From reading around the internet I've seen most different makes and models with a 8" go with the kicker 40CWD84 or the Rockford Fosgate P2D28, has anyone had experience with installing and if these or any replacement sub for that matter? I've done a few aftermarket installs of systems with aftermarket headunits but never with a factory head unit, but I am wanting to do this install myself with a pioneer monoblock amp that I have laying around if anyone has a good write about doing this, thank you for any info in advance.
08-02-2017, 09:27 AM
#2
Instructor
Hello TJCanley,
I have the premium stereo as well - Not the ELS model and yes, I have changed out the factory rear sub to the Kicker 40CWD84 like a few others on this forum. I choose this sub for 3 reasons:
1) It was pretty cheap
2) It has a dual voice coil (the factory sub runs at a 2 ohm load)
3) Free Air sub classification.
I also did not want to lose my trunk and had previously installed stereos in the past so I have some experience. My initial set up was just dropping in the sub and wiring it through the stock wires to have it run in a 2 ohm load - This did provide a notable louder mid base response over the stock sub, however "do not expect" much of a deeper base response. I do find the front stock speakers have reasonable mid punch but I still wanted a bit more deeper base range so I went the way of installing a secondary amp. If you install a secondary amp then it doesn't matter if your sub is a dual voice coil 2 ohm - use whatever one you prefer. "Be warned" if you go this route there are two necessary things you will need 1) Disconnect the Active Noise Cancellation located from behind the glove box, or you will receive a humming feedback from your sub after the amp is on - There is a how to YouTube video (The other way of a temporary button press doesn't really work!) 2) You absolutely need to pick up a Line Out Converter if you use the high level outputs - Without it you will have less sound output from your sub!
*** To remove the stock speaker and install the new one you will need to push out the rear deck clips from within the trunk ( I believe there are 4 or possibly 6), then you need to go to the rear seats and push up on the side cushions (left and right of the main seat backs) and then pop them out a bit to gain access to the C-Pillar covers for their removal; there are only clips 3 clips per side to remove the C-Pillar covers however be a little careful as there is one clip that has some slack and needs to be pushed out from its fastener (you will know what I mean when you do it - this is not hard at all to do). Then you will need to remove the tether/latch covers and feed the seat-belts through. Finally remove the whole rear deck cover (there are a couple more clips along the back rest however are a non-issue. There are 4 bolts that hold in the stock speaker (I believe it is your typical 10mm socket). The only real issue is installing your new speaker as more than likely whatever speaker you decide to use will not fit in the stock holes.
After doing this I am reasonably satisfied with the sound that comes out of the 8" sub and the base response is dramatically better over the stock, however again do not expect it to hit the super low notes as this is still an 8" subwoofer and not properly enclosed in a box or sealed enclosure.
I have the premium stereo as well - Not the ELS model and yes, I have changed out the factory rear sub to the Kicker 40CWD84 like a few others on this forum. I choose this sub for 3 reasons:
1) It was pretty cheap
2) It has a dual voice coil (the factory sub runs at a 2 ohm load)
3) Free Air sub classification.
I also did not want to lose my trunk and had previously installed stereos in the past so I have some experience. My initial set up was just dropping in the sub and wiring it through the stock wires to have it run in a 2 ohm load - This did provide a notable louder mid base response over the stock sub, however "do not expect" much of a deeper base response. I do find the front stock speakers have reasonable mid punch but I still wanted a bit more deeper base range so I went the way of installing a secondary amp. If you install a secondary amp then it doesn't matter if your sub is a dual voice coil 2 ohm - use whatever one you prefer. "Be warned" if you go this route there are two necessary things you will need 1) Disconnect the Active Noise Cancellation located from behind the glove box, or you will receive a humming feedback from your sub after the amp is on - There is a how to YouTube video (The other way of a temporary button press doesn't really work!) 2) You absolutely need to pick up a Line Out Converter if you use the high level outputs - Without it you will have less sound output from your sub!
*** To remove the stock speaker and install the new one you will need to push out the rear deck clips from within the trunk ( I believe there are 4 or possibly 6), then you need to go to the rear seats and push up on the side cushions (left and right of the main seat backs) and then pop them out a bit to gain access to the C-Pillar covers for their removal; there are only clips 3 clips per side to remove the C-Pillar covers however be a little careful as there is one clip that has some slack and needs to be pushed out from its fastener (you will know what I mean when you do it - this is not hard at all to do). Then you will need to remove the tether/latch covers and feed the seat-belts through. Finally remove the whole rear deck cover (there are a couple more clips along the back rest however are a non-issue. There are 4 bolts that hold in the stock speaker (I believe it is your typical 10mm socket). The only real issue is installing your new speaker as more than likely whatever speaker you decide to use will not fit in the stock holes.
After doing this I am reasonably satisfied with the sound that comes out of the 8" sub and the base response is dramatically better over the stock, however again do not expect it to hit the super low notes as this is still an 8" subwoofer and not properly enclosed in a box or sealed enclosure.
08-03-2017, 05:12 PM
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Hello TJCanley,
I have the premium stereo as well - Not the ELS model and yes, I have changed out the factory rear sub to the Kicker 40CWD84 like a few others on this forum. I choose this sub for 3 reasons:
1) It was pretty cheap
2) It has a dual voice coil (the factory sub runs at a 2 ohm load)
3) Free Air sub classification.
I also did not want to lose my trunk and had previously installed stereos in the past so I have some experience. My initial set up was just dropping in the sub and wiring it through the stock wires to have it run in a 2 ohm load - This did provide a notable louder mid base response over the stock sub, however "do not expect" much of a deeper base response. I do find the front stock speakers have reasonable mid punch but I still wanted a bit more deeper base range so I went the way of installing a secondary amp. If you install a secondary amp then it doesn't matter if your sub is a dual voice coil 2 ohm - use whatever one you prefer. "Be warned" if you go this route there are two necessary things you will need 1) Disconnect the Active Noise Cancellation located from behind the glove box, or you will receive a humming feedback from your sub after the amp is on - There is a how to YouTube video (The other way of a temporary button press doesn't really work!) 2) You absolutely need to pick up a Line Out Converter if you use the high level outputs - Without it you will have less sound output from your sub!
*** To remove the stock speaker and install the new one you will need to push out the rear deck clips from within the trunk ( I believe there are 4 or possibly 6), then you need to go to the rear seats and push up on the side cushions (left and right of the main seat backs) and then pop them out a bit to gain access to the C-Pillar covers for their removal; there are only clips 3 clips per side to remove the C-Pillar covers however be a little careful as there is one clip that has some slack and needs to be pushed out from its fastener (you will know what I mean when you do it - this is not hard at all to do). Then you will need to remove the tether/latch covers and feed the seat-belts through. Finally remove the whole rear deck cover (there are a couple more clips along the back rest however are a non-issue. There are 4 bolts that hold in the stock speaker (I believe it is your typical 10mm socket). The only real issue is installing your new speaker as more than likely whatever speaker you decide to use will not fit in the stock holes.
After doing this I am reasonably satisfied with the sound that comes out of the 8" sub and the base response is dramatically better over the stock, however again do not expect it to hit the super low notes as this is still an 8" subwoofer and not properly enclosed in a box or sealed enclosure.
I have the premium stereo as well - Not the ELS model and yes, I have changed out the factory rear sub to the Kicker 40CWD84 like a few others on this forum. I choose this sub for 3 reasons:
1) It was pretty cheap
2) It has a dual voice coil (the factory sub runs at a 2 ohm load)
3) Free Air sub classification.
I also did not want to lose my trunk and had previously installed stereos in the past so I have some experience. My initial set up was just dropping in the sub and wiring it through the stock wires to have it run in a 2 ohm load - This did provide a notable louder mid base response over the stock sub, however "do not expect" much of a deeper base response. I do find the front stock speakers have reasonable mid punch but I still wanted a bit more deeper base range so I went the way of installing a secondary amp. If you install a secondary amp then it doesn't matter if your sub is a dual voice coil 2 ohm - use whatever one you prefer. "Be warned" if you go this route there are two necessary things you will need 1) Disconnect the Active Noise Cancellation located from behind the glove box, or you will receive a humming feedback from your sub after the amp is on - There is a how to YouTube video (The other way of a temporary button press doesn't really work!) 2) You absolutely need to pick up a Line Out Converter if you use the high level outputs - Without it you will have less sound output from your sub!
*** To remove the stock speaker and install the new one you will need to push out the rear deck clips from within the trunk ( I believe there are 4 or possibly 6), then you need to go to the rear seats and push up on the side cushions (left and right of the main seat backs) and then pop them out a bit to gain access to the C-Pillar covers for their removal; there are only clips 3 clips per side to remove the C-Pillar covers however be a little careful as there is one clip that has some slack and needs to be pushed out from its fastener (you will know what I mean when you do it - this is not hard at all to do). Then you will need to remove the tether/latch covers and feed the seat-belts through. Finally remove the whole rear deck cover (there are a couple more clips along the back rest however are a non-issue. There are 4 bolts that hold in the stock speaker (I believe it is your typical 10mm socket). The only real issue is installing your new speaker as more than likely whatever speaker you decide to use will not fit in the stock holes.
After doing this I am reasonably satisfied with the sound that comes out of the 8" sub and the base response is dramatically better over the stock, however again do not expect it to hit the super low notes as this is still an 8" subwoofer and not properly enclosed in a box or sealed enclosure.
08-04-2017, 04:22 PM
#4
Instructor
You said you had installed amps/head units in the past, so most of it will be the same. You will need to run a power and ground for your amp (ideally run the power straight from the battery - Don't forget to run a separate fuse near the battery), the Line Out Converter (I used the brand: LC2) will also need power and ground however you can essentially run the power and ground from the amp - Although not the most ideal way of doing it. Run a remote wire from the Line out converter to the amp (small wire is fine for this); splice wires from either the stock rear speakers or the stock sup woofer wires to the Line out Converter (if you use the sub woofer wires then you can adjust the gain levels from your vehicle stereo); Run RCA cables form the Line out Converter to the amp; Finally run speaker wires from the amp to the sub woofer. In either case I believe there is directions that come with the Line out Converter, if not really this is basic stuff. After it is set up you will need tot tweak the Line out Converter (again there is instructions). Enjoy!!!
08-15-2018, 12:05 AM
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Hello---has anyone tried a passive sub in a sealed enclosure, such as the Bazooka BT6024DVC? Dual coil sub that can be wired for 2 ohms, and small enough to fit behind the front seat. It is efficient---100 dB with 1 watt input--so should work okay with the stock amp. I am thinking of just running the wires from the rear deck sub to this sub, and retain the ANC function. Thoughts?
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-0fc5NS...BT6024DVC.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-0fc5NS...BT6024DVC.html
08-18-2018, 08:47 PM
#7
Instructor
Just finished up my subwoofer upgrade a few days ago. I've got a base 2014 with 7-speaker system.
I second everything Chrifff said here. I went with the kicker that was the only one suggested with free air capability and 2 ohm impedance.
Chrifff, if I may ask (not to hijack, but OP probably would like to know as well), which sub woofer wire color did you use to hookup (+)? Either red or green, so far I'm using green as (+).
For my install, I took the chance to install sound/vibration dampening all over the rear deck/shelf. To me this was very helpful to avoid rattles and tighten up the bass output.
I kept my stock head unit with no external amp, so far result is a noticeable increase in output, but nothing earth shattering.
I did a frequency sweep (just use your phone with free app) and the sub starts to roll off below 45Hz which is typical for a 8" sub.
Challenge: The stock subwoofer mount hole is a bit too big. The kicker sub fits nicely in it but its 8 screws holes are in a circle pattern which is at the edge of the opening. I ended up with only 6 out of the 8 screws threading into the rear deck. Once the kicker subwoofer is mounted you will need to cutback the rear deck cover's subwoofer flange. On the subwoofer I then used foam weather strip to line the subwoofer edge such that the cover's flange seals against the weather stripping (just like the stock one did).
Item & tool list:
8" Kicker subwoofer dual voice coil 4ohm + some speaker wire to jumper subw into 2 ohms
Noico sound vibration deadening sheets (just need around 8 SF).
Sheet metal screws #6, .75" long
Foam weather strip 3/8" wide
Power drill with 3/32" bit
Cardboard cutter + roller tool to help install of Noico sheets
I second everything Chrifff said here. I went with the kicker that was the only one suggested with free air capability and 2 ohm impedance.
Chrifff, if I may ask (not to hijack, but OP probably would like to know as well), which sub woofer wire color did you use to hookup (+)? Either red or green, so far I'm using green as (+).
For my install, I took the chance to install sound/vibration dampening all over the rear deck/shelf. To me this was very helpful to avoid rattles and tighten up the bass output.
I kept my stock head unit with no external amp, so far result is a noticeable increase in output, but nothing earth shattering.
I did a frequency sweep (just use your phone with free app) and the sub starts to roll off below 45Hz which is typical for a 8" sub.
Challenge: The stock subwoofer mount hole is a bit too big. The kicker sub fits nicely in it but its 8 screws holes are in a circle pattern which is at the edge of the opening. I ended up with only 6 out of the 8 screws threading into the rear deck. Once the kicker subwoofer is mounted you will need to cutback the rear deck cover's subwoofer flange. On the subwoofer I then used foam weather strip to line the subwoofer edge such that the cover's flange seals against the weather stripping (just like the stock one did).
Item & tool list:
8" Kicker subwoofer dual voice coil 4ohm + some speaker wire to jumper subw into 2 ohms
Noico sound vibration deadening sheets (just need around 8 SF).
Sheet metal screws #6, .75" long
Foam weather strip 3/8" wide
Power drill with 3/32" bit
Cardboard cutter + roller tool to help install of Noico sheets
Last edited by ipribadi; 08-18-2018 at 08:51 PM.
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08-23-2018, 08:39 PM
#8
Instructor
Just finished up my subwoofer upgrade a few days ago. I've got a base 2014 with 7-speaker system.
I second everything Chrifff said here. I went with the kicker that was the only one suggested with free air capability and 2 ohm impedance.
Chrifff, if I may ask (not to hijack, but OP probably would like to know as well), which sub woofer wire color did you use to hookup (+)? Either red or green, so far I'm using green as (+).
For my install, I took the chance to install sound/vibration dampening all over the rear deck/shelf. To me this was very helpful to avoid rattles and tighten up the bass output.
I kept my stock head unit with no external amp, so far result is a noticeable increase in output, but nothing earth shattering.
I did a frequency sweep (just use your phone with free app) and the sub starts to roll off below 45Hz which is typical for a 8" sub.
Challenge: The stock subwoofer mount hole is a bit too big. The kicker sub fits nicely in it but its 8 screws holes are in a circle pattern which is at the edge of the opening. I ended up with only 6 out of the 8 screws threading into the rear deck. Once the kicker subwoofer is mounted you will need to cutback the rear deck cover's subwoofer flange. On the subwoofer I then used foam weather strip to line the subwoofer edge such that the cover's flange seals against the weather stripping (just like the stock one did).
Item & tool list:
8" Kicker subwoofer dual voice coil 4ohm + some speaker wire to jumper subw into 2 ohms
Noico sound vibration deadening sheets (just need around 8 SF).
Sheet metal screws #6, .75" long
Foam weather strip 3/8" wide
Power drill with 3/32" bit
Cardboard cutter + roller tool to help install of Noico sheets
I second everything Chrifff said here. I went with the kicker that was the only one suggested with free air capability and 2 ohm impedance.
Chrifff, if I may ask (not to hijack, but OP probably would like to know as well), which sub woofer wire color did you use to hookup (+)? Either red or green, so far I'm using green as (+).
For my install, I took the chance to install sound/vibration dampening all over the rear deck/shelf. To me this was very helpful to avoid rattles and tighten up the bass output.
I kept my stock head unit with no external amp, so far result is a noticeable increase in output, but nothing earth shattering.
I did a frequency sweep (just use your phone with free app) and the sub starts to roll off below 45Hz which is typical for a 8" sub.
Challenge: The stock subwoofer mount hole is a bit too big. The kicker sub fits nicely in it but its 8 screws holes are in a circle pattern which is at the edge of the opening. I ended up with only 6 out of the 8 screws threading into the rear deck. Once the kicker subwoofer is mounted you will need to cutback the rear deck cover's subwoofer flange. On the subwoofer I then used foam weather strip to line the subwoofer edge such that the cover's flange seals against the weather stripping (just like the stock one did).
Item & tool list:
8" Kicker subwoofer dual voice coil 4ohm + some speaker wire to jumper subw into 2 ohms
Noico sound vibration deadening sheets (just need around 8 SF).
Sheet metal screws #6, .75" long
Foam weather strip 3/8" wide
Power drill with 3/32" bit
Cardboard cutter + roller tool to help install of Noico sheets
Sorry for the delay on a response - I must admit to community that I have sold my Acura ILX and switched to a different "A" branded company.
In either case I'm glad to hear you used Dynomat or something similar to that (I did have the occasional vibrations from the rear deck even after using weather striping and mounting the sub securely). As for which wires I used, unfortunately I do not have the vehicle any longer... But looking at a picture I have for the install, I seem to see a green wire with white dots on it - This wire was hooked up to the positive lead on the sub woofer. In either case you should notice the sub woofer sounding out of sync if it is set up reverse phase. The sound would reverse the output and almost cancel out some of the low bass coming form the other component speakers, this should be fairly obvious by swapping the wires around = One way will sound like crap.
Hope that helps!?!?
Chrifff