ILX audio vs my 2011 tsx

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Old Sep 11, 2015 | 04:16 PM
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ILX audio vs my 2011 tsx

I have a 2016 ilx premium aspec and from what i under stand the audio system is pretty much the same i had in my 2011 tsx? Although my tsx seemed to bump harder with the sub woofer. Wondering if anyone else thinks this and if theres something idk or what they did to fix it (get a dif sub, tune it better idk). Thanks!
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Old Sep 11, 2015 | 04:30 PM
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I never tried a 2011 TSX, but I got a 2015 TLX loaner and I have the same experience, the system in it, especially the woofer bumps harder. Although I did have my subwoofer replaced in my 2016 ILX and I put in a RE Audio 600W RMS sub.
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Old Sep 11, 2015 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by peti1212
I never tried a 2011 TSX, but I got a 2015 TLX loaner and I have the same experience, the system in it, especially the woofer bumps harder. Although I did have my subwoofer replaced in my 2016 ILX and I put in a RE Audio 600W RMS sub.
Did swapping out the sub help? And was it just a straight swap or did you have to rip the radio apart/install and amp etc.
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Old Sep 11, 2015 | 05:35 PM
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I actually had a 900W Amp installed on the rear back seat in the trunk space and a box with the sub in the trunk. It is quite large. The woofer itself was so big that it was no way going to fit where the original was. It is not the right dimension either, although I guess it could be modded. The woffer flexes so much though during the beats that it would just cause a lot of vibrations in my opinion: RE Audio SEX12D4 12" SE-X Series Car Subwoofer

What you actually need is a High to Low Converter that converts the cable from the head unit (radio) to RCA connectors that the AMP uses. So it requires some understanding of the radio and amp configuration, etc. I am not quite sure how it was done because I took it to an audio shop for the exact reason that I didn't want to break something on the head unit or on the plastic around the head unit. I trust them and they did a good job. The High to Low converter got installed right behind the steering wheel by the left foot under the plastic cover that also covers the internal fuses. And then a 4 gauge cable got routed from the battery through the right hand side of the car back to the amp behind the plastic covers around the doors, and same for the RCA cables and the remote cable from the head unit but on the other side to prevent signal bleeding. I think that's what it is called. Don't quote me on anything, I think that's how it was done.

The end result of a clean install was basically that they left the old sub where it was, just unplugged it, and the amp and sub got installed in my trunk. In all honesty I am thinking about replacing the box I currently have, but if I would do that I would like to do a custom box for the trunk. Right now I am wasting a lot of space (about 35%-40% of trunk space because of the large box and woofer in there.
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 06:57 AM
  #5  
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I have a '16 with the A-SPEC/Tech package and one of the main reasons why I went with the Tech was for the upgraded stereo... while it does sound good, it's definitely not as good as the stereo in my 2013 TSX. I have the sub turned all the way up too and it doesn't hit as hard as the TSX did.
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Old Sep 14, 2015 | 02:44 PM
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usdmJON's Avatar
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Its not the exact same system.

Even if it was the two cars would have entirely different acoustics. The same system would sound different from car to car.
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 02:56 AM
  #7  
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From: ohio
Originally Posted by peti1212
I actually had a 900W Amp installed on the rear back seat in the trunk space and a box with the sub in the trunk. It is quite large. The woofer itself was so big that it was no way going to fit where the original was. It is not the right dimension either, although I guess it could be modded. The woffer flexes so much though during the beats that it would just cause a lot of vibrations in my opinion: RE Audio SEX12D4 12" SE-X Series Car Subwoofer

What you actually need is a High to Low Converter that converts the cable from the head unit (radio) to RCA connectors that the AMP uses. So it requires some understanding of the radio and amp configuration, etc. I am not quite sure how it was done because I took it to an audio shop for the exact reason that I didn't want to break something on the head unit or on the plastic around the head unit. I trust them and they did a good job. The High to Low converter got installed right behind the steering wheel by the left foot under the plastic cover that also covers the internal fuses. And then a 4 gauge cable got routed from the battery through the right hand side of the car back to the amp behind the plastic covers around the doors, and same for the RCA cables and the remote cable from the head unit but on the other side to prevent signal bleeding. I think that's what it is called. Don't quote me on anything, I think that's how it was done.

The end result of a clean install was basically that they left the old sub where it was, just unplugged it, and the amp and sub got installed in my trunk. In all honesty I am thinking about replacing the box I currently have, but if I would do that I would like to do a custom box for the trunk. Right now I am wasting a lot of space (about 35%-40% of trunk space because of the large box and woofer in there.
loc is what you said. it just takes the high signal and steps it down to a low level sig. so you can use rca's. u hook it up to the high level from speakers. for us just hook it up to the factory sub. then u get sub control from the fact deck with a aftermarket sub. good they disconnected ur factory sub. i hate when people keep it connected with a new sub and amp. u should take the fact sub out. see how much better it sounds.
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