All-Motor/Bolt-On/Forced-Induction Talk
#361
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
If anyone wants a supercharger you can take mine for what I paid. $3500 shipped and insured.
#362
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Chino the thing is I told Vit I didn't need him to tune it until the S/C got in and he said lets go ahead and tune it.. I don't feel like that's my fault when I was clear that I wanted to wait for the SC
#363
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Not when I originally paid for a F/I tune and stated I didn't want him to do anything until the SC got in.. I was clear.
#364
Did you tell vit this stuff in an email? maybe he'll take back what he did and give you the tune for free.
#365
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
If someone wants the deal I got, now is the time. Otherwise it's just gonna go back.
#366
Aw man, I have a paycheck coming along too. Are you sure you won't pay a restocking fee.
#367
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
#369
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
#371
Looks great. Wish my ilx wasnt leased.
#373
I plan on buying mine also. Just dont want to cut into the bumper when anything could happen in the next few years. Looks great though.
#374
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Looks great Switt.
Vit is going to do the tune for $60 instead of $130.. I told HeelToe to just send the box.
Hopefully I won't regret it!
Vit is going to do the tune for $60 instead of $130.. I told HeelToe to just send the box.
Hopefully I won't regret it!
#375
Yessss. Glad to hear.
#376
So you're going ahead with the tune and s/c!!!! zomg, if you like it, I'll get it too...I'm getting teh monies soon...can't waitzzz
#377
#378
Burning Brakes
Looks good! Dedicating a whole thread to pictures for it?
#379
lol I bet they would have done it regardless of your chops.
#380
Instructor
OMG!!! Can't wait to see the final product. So youre going quad exhaust eh? I was thinking to do the samething, I had a rough quote of $1XXX for custom dual exhaust. I want something like this...
Go for it. Dont waste your money on restocking fee that you'll surely regret.
#381
So to be back on topic of Bolt On's....
For the exhaust I honestly feel it's best to purchase all the exhaust parts you want ahead of time and then find someone who can weld if you don't already know someone.
My whole setup ran $360 for all Stainless Steel piping after the resonator, the 2 stainless steel tips, 2 dynomax super turbo mufflers, the exhaust merge divider and all needed "reducer/increaser" pipes. I work at a body shop and can weld so I will do the exhaust myself. I had a buddy do the cutouts at a local shop because he's got mad skills. He free-handed the cutouts after eyeballing the size of the tips against the bumper. They are completely straight and rounded smooth and look OEM.
For the exhaust I honestly feel it's best to purchase all the exhaust parts you want ahead of time and then find someone who can weld if you don't already know someone.
My whole setup ran $360 for all Stainless Steel piping after the resonator, the 2 stainless steel tips, 2 dynomax super turbo mufflers, the exhaust merge divider and all needed "reducer/increaser" pipes. I work at a body shop and can weld so I will do the exhaust myself. I had a buddy do the cutouts at a local shop because he's got mad skills. He free-handed the cutouts after eyeballing the size of the tips against the bumper. They are completely straight and rounded smooth and look OEM.
#382
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Switt, your set up is beyond my ability.. I am excited to see/hear the final product.
#383
yea, hats off to you sir.
#384
I guess i'm lost what makes it seem like i'm "gifted" or taking on a monster of a task.
Hardest part is MIG welding the Stainless as if you can't put pressure on the inside of the pipe the welds tend to sugar and oxidize. Other than that it's like playing tetris. which part/pieces fit where.
But thank you both for the kind words . Lowering springs going on tomorrow. Had to mow my back yard today which took almost 4.5 hours to do. Sucks having the 2nd biggest lot in the neighborhood and rainy weather on every day you have off of work.
Hardest part is MIG welding the Stainless as if you can't put pressure on the inside of the pipe the welds tend to sugar and oxidize. Other than that it's like playing tetris. which part/pieces fit where.
But thank you both for the kind words . Lowering springs going on tomorrow. Had to mow my back yard today which took almost 4.5 hours to do. Sucks having the 2nd biggest lot in the neighborhood and rainy weather on every day you have off of work.
#386
Preview
#388
Man was she a bitch.
Front driver axle popped out literally 3 times.
Never seen anything like that. First day started at 7pm because I work until 6pm.
Got the rear end done by 8pm at least. Front left was the pain. Axle popped out and we got it back in. It must have came out a second time or we didn't properly seat it the first time. Got the Front right done and had an extra pair of hands hold the hub in place so the axle wouldn't pop out. With the help of moving the wheels to the side THAT one went in pretty easily.
Went for a slow drive and it sounded kind of clunky but thought it may be setting in place. Drove down the street and it only got worse so I turned back around. Parked the car in the garage. I went into panic mode. I calmed myself down the only way I know how. It was pretty damn late and noT in a state to work on my suspension anymore; I went to sleep.
Next day after leaving work 30 minutes early started at 6:30pm. Checked on the right axle and it looked fine. Started on the driver side. The axle was definitely out but there wasn't any tearing in the boot so I hoped for the best. We had one person hold the boot and guide the axle straight, a second person pushing and rotating the hub, and a third person slowly pivoting the wheel left and right. After a LOT of trying without removing the boot (didn't want to remove anything I couldn't replace OEM to possibly void any warranties during my lease; even just the CV boot clamp) it finally set in. Rotated it for a while like suggested to allow the bearing to set and put everything back into place, torqued to spec, and lowered her down.
The ride is significantly stiffer now. I never realized how much I miss a stiff suspension.
Not as stiff as my fold FF Type1s but way stiffer than stock. Drop looks great. I still clear my driveway and speed bumps with ease.
I highly suggest H&R after two annoying days of installation after long days of work and about 4 hours of enjoyment.
Edit:
Crappy night insta
Mini shoot to come.
Front driver axle popped out literally 3 times.
Never seen anything like that. First day started at 7pm because I work until 6pm.
Got the rear end done by 8pm at least. Front left was the pain. Axle popped out and we got it back in. It must have came out a second time or we didn't properly seat it the first time. Got the Front right done and had an extra pair of hands hold the hub in place so the axle wouldn't pop out. With the help of moving the wheels to the side THAT one went in pretty easily.
Went for a slow drive and it sounded kind of clunky but thought it may be setting in place. Drove down the street and it only got worse so I turned back around. Parked the car in the garage. I went into panic mode. I calmed myself down the only way I know how. It was pretty damn late and noT in a state to work on my suspension anymore; I went to sleep.
Next day after leaving work 30 minutes early started at 6:30pm. Checked on the right axle and it looked fine. Started on the driver side. The axle was definitely out but there wasn't any tearing in the boot so I hoped for the best. We had one person hold the boot and guide the axle straight, a second person pushing and rotating the hub, and a third person slowly pivoting the wheel left and right. After a LOT of trying without removing the boot (didn't want to remove anything I couldn't replace OEM to possibly void any warranties during my lease; even just the CV boot clamp) it finally set in. Rotated it for a while like suggested to allow the bearing to set and put everything back into place, torqued to spec, and lowered her down.
The ride is significantly stiffer now. I never realized how much I miss a stiff suspension.
Not as stiff as my fold FF Type1s but way stiffer than stock. Drop looks great. I still clear my driveway and speed bumps with ease.
I highly suggest H&R after two annoying days of installation after long days of work and about 4 hours of enjoyment.
Edit:
Crappy night insta
Mini shoot to come.
Last edited by usdmJON; 06-14-2013 at 01:15 AM.
#390
Instructor
#391
I'm fairly certain all is fine. I hardly drove around at all with the sound. Im the type of person that wont drive a mile if something sounds off.
The spindle was still catching. A lost of stories I heard ended with their speedo reading in the 40s with the car at a stand still. My was was driving pretty normal minus the sound. Once we got the axle seated properly there was NO play at all. I drove with a led foot home pushing it to see how everything was and Im confident everything is better.
The spindle was still catching. A lost of stories I heard ended with their speedo reading in the 40s with the car at a stand still. My was was driving pretty normal minus the sound. Once we got the axle seated properly there was NO play at all. I drove with a led foot home pushing it to see how everything was and Im confident everything is better.
#392
exciting stuff guys...I need to start moving ahead on my build
The following users liked this post:
Switt23 (06-14-2013)
#394
Jon that is sexy! I'm thinking I might drop mine, get used to the low driving and get rims some months later once I'm used to it. I have a question for all you guys though, why is everyone choosing springs over coils? Is there an advantage or just the price and function? I'm really looking for some coilovers but haven't heard or seen people with them on the ilx as much as springs.
#395
Thats a chop right?
#396
Coilovers are the next step up from springs. Coilovers are springs and struts, typically in a one piece set up. Springs will retain the stock shocks or require aftermarket shocks. Coilovers id say should run from 500 cheapest to a grand or more. Coils cheapest id go is 200 to maybe 300ish.
Coilovers should be less bouncy than springs using stock shocks. Pictures in the gen1 pics thread.
Coilovers should be less bouncy than springs using stock shocks. Pictures in the gen1 pics thread.
#398
Good job dude. Only spot I can tell is the rear left wheel. I would have copied some of the rear right, mirrored it and used that to finish the wheel where the box was.
Have you taken classes or teach yourself?
Have you taken classes or teach yourself?
#399
Good job dude. Only spot I can tell is the rear left wheel. I would have copied some of the rear right, mirrored it and used that to finish the wheel where the box was.
Have you taken classes or teach yourself?
Have you taken classes or teach yourself?
#400
Look how clean you made the garage floor .
Exhaust will go on after Tuesday, i'm waiting on one straight piece of pipe that I can use to fill in any gaps needed.
Jon did you support the front control arms before removing the strut assembly? This is one trick that might help anyone else with the lowering springs. Once you get the wheel off the car, support the front control arm with a jack stand. This will help remove the strain on the axle keeping it parallel to the ground.
Exhaust will go on after Tuesday, i'm waiting on one straight piece of pipe that I can use to fill in any gaps needed.
Jon did you support the front control arms before removing the strut assembly? This is one trick that might help anyone else with the lowering springs. Once you get the wheel off the car, support the front control arm with a jack stand. This will help remove the strain on the axle keeping it parallel to the ground.
The following 2 users liked this post by Switt23:
neveronlineilx (06-14-2013),
Timmy18 (06-14-2013)