Hi guys,
a couple of weeks ago I tried to install some sound deadening material. I did the trunk first and the whole interior subsequently. I did not take any measurements. The most obvious thing I noticed is how sturdy the car sounds when going over rough surfaces. I did it in a rented garage space, so I did not have enough time to document everything. The trunk took me around 3h and the interior 7h30.

I added some Noico sound deadening material, layered with Noico green closed-cell foam, and on top a 1/2 lb/sq.ft mass loaded vinyl. I'm not sure as to whether I will do the doors or not.
Ultimately, what bothers me the most, is the engine buzzing noise. Might try to do the firewall.

If you have any questions regarding how to remove the different trim pieces, let me know.

 

HEY! I did the same today i did my rear deck lid and ill do some of my tunk like you did. BUT I CAN'T FIND THE SOURCE OF A FFU*KING TATTLING!!!!! i suspect now its the 3rd brake light ANYONE KNOW WHERE ON EARTH ITS COMING FROM!!!!!!! i have a 2015 acura ilx base ive seen another thread same issue.

(i have a sub installed which shakes the car but my cheap honda insight didn't have that problem and it was from 2010!!!!

 

Nice !!!! It's a lot of work though.
Can you describe the type of noise you hear? Any suspected areas?

 

Wow, looks like a lot of work. No way I'm doing that. But let us know of the results. Apparently, the 13-15 ILX was much noisier than the MMC (2016+).

 

3rd brake light is a must. saw it on the TLX forums but its the same part. they used silicone glue to the rear window to fix it. I will try that too but its more around the driver side rear deck that rattles

 

It looks daunting, but once you get started, it's relatively simple. To be honest, i have not heard much of a difference in terms of tire noise. I hear about the same amount. They are Yokohama ice guard winter tires.

 

I would probably try driving the car without the rear deck cover, just to isolate some more. Please let us know what you find

 

Great thread. My main concerns are engine noise and tire noise. If anyone hits on a way to reduce those, please share.

 

Thank you. That is my main concern too. After doing this, I have come to realize that it is not as straightforward as just adding some deadening material.
For the engine, it's going to be the trickiest part, you will need to disassemble the whole dash. I don't think it's worth the effort.

 

they make some for the engine bay just slap it on the hood rather than taking the dash. would give you super big results.

i like engine nose so i didnt do mine

https://www.tlxforums.com/threads/ho...017-tlx.33481/

other forums im following, yall should try the 3rd brake light silicone glue trick

 

I actually have it installed. I did not notice much of a difference. Don't get me wrong, I love the sound too when you rev it, but there is this low speed ticking it makes that I don't like.
So did this fix your rattling problems? You might probably also want to dynamat the doors.

 

Haven't fixed the problem yet, cars been parked since my last post. maybe ill work on it tmrw

 

I did similar sound proofing on my doors and trunk and got a considerable reduction in tire noise (and the sound system sounds better too!). I installed 80 mil butyl and 315 mil closed cell foam on the exterior shell and covered the interior openings with a Dynamat kit (see photos). I haven't done the floor of my interior, just the doors so far and I'm really happy with the outcome! It was pretty easy to take off the door panels and remove the factory installed "sound proofing". Kind of hard to work in the small spaces on the exterior of the door shell, but not impossible. I'm thinking about doing the hood to see if I can reduce some of the engine noise as well, but overall the engine noise doesn't bother me.



Interior of Passenger Side Front Door. Installed 80 mil butyl and covered with 315 mil closed cell foam.



Covered interior of door shell with dynamat door sound proofing kit.

 

That is actually pretty impressive. I never bothered to finish the doors.
However, recently got some PIRELLI CINTURATO P7 A/S PLUS and I was much happier with the result they provided.
I did also apply some dynamat hoodliner, but, I can still distinctively hear the ticking noise from the engine and the high-pressure fuel pump

Let us know if it makes any difference for the hood.

 

I would imagine doing the doors will give you the most noticeable difference. The only factory sound proofing is a super think piece of black foam that is glued in with a thin piece of white plastic! The doors are basically thin metal echo chambers without additional insulation. The speakers also sound so much better once I did this! I have the factory "Premium" sound system with 7 speakers and without any other modifications than the sound proofing, the speakers are louder and clearer. I can feel the bass out of the door speakers and I turned down the bass setting and listen to it at the same volume. My main complaints with this car were the tire/road noise and wind sounds (particularly at higher speeds or on the highway). Between the sound proofing I've already done and adding additional weather strip around each door, I've drastically reduced the tire/road noise and basically eliminated the wind noise! I'm so happy with the results and plan to keep the car for as long as it will last me.



Factory "sound proofing"

I did reuse the factory foam mat over the dynamat, simply cut off the white plastic and used tape to reinstall.

 

I had a 2016 ILX A-spec, (prior to that an RLX Advanced), and I remember the ILX being much louder than my RLX.

The sad part about all this is Acura could have done more to the ILX to reduce the interior noise, as shown by the project above. I did the exact same project with my wife's older 2007 RDX SHAWD and man it's incredible what some Butyl and a few weekends with the service manual can do. Not only radically reduces exterior noise, but it definitely improves the response and performance of the in-door speakers by reducing a ton of reverberation and resonance caused by the empty hollow does. It improves bass response significantly and gives the overall audio quality a tighter and more accurate frequency response across the entire spectrum.

Blows my mind the car manufacturers just don't do this shit by default.