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Has anyone else notice the stereo system punch a little harder then it use to? When I first got the 16 ilx it did not have any bass at all, i put the sub to the max and base to the max and it was not bumping, my wife and i are starting to notice the stereo hitting the base line now. I guess there was a break-in period or something?
Last edited by Rae Rad; 10-06-2015 at 09:11 PM.
Reason: Spelling
You may be on to something here. However, I'm getting negative effects.
My bass use to sound great (I mainly listen to Hip Hop stations on the Sirius Radio). However, after about a month of ownership, I've noticed a very annoying Speaker Grill rattle coming from the rear subwoofer area. This may be due to the subwoofer "punching harder" after a certain break in.
I've taken it into service and they claim they can't hear it. I'll admit, it does not happen all the time but it is very annoying when it does start to rattle.
My bass never caused any sorts of rattles first couple weeks. Either my speaker grill is getting loose on it's own or the bass is getting "stronger" as you mentioned.
Some days it sounds better then other i've noticed.
But then I realize I have my windows down. Once i roll up the windows to seal the air in the car, it sounds better... might be the noise cancelation working?
The ELS models simply have enough wattage to punch though windy air so it sounds good regardless.
Has anyone else notice the stereo system punch a little harder then it use to? When I first got the 16 ilx it did not have any bass at all, i put the sub to the max and base to the max and it was not bumping, my wife and i are starting to notice the stereo hitting the base line now. I guess there was a break-in period or something?
I guess you really don't know how electronics work, do you?
Originally Posted by iRaw
You may be on to something here. However, I'm getting negative effects.
My bass use to sound great (I mainly listen to Hip Hop stations on the Sirius Radio). However, after about a month of ownership, I've noticed a very annoying Speaker Grill rattle coming from the rear subwoofer area. This may be due to the subwoofer "punching harder" after a certain break in.
I've taken it into service and they claim they can't hear it. I'll admit, it does not happen all the time but it is very annoying when it does start to rattle.
My bass never caused any sorts of rattles first couple weeks. Either my speaker grill is getting loose on it's own or the bass is getting "stronger" as you mentioned.
The "bass" can't get "stronger" but the "bass" can cause the various bits and pieces to rattle and the rattle can lead to loosening which leads to more rattling.
Originally Posted by Thmanx
Some days it sounds better then other i've noticed.
But then I realize I have my windows down. Once i roll up the windows to seal the air in the car, it sounds better... might be the noise cancelation working?
The ELS models simply have enough wattage to punch though windy air so it sounds good regardless.
Sound doesn't "punch through".
The electrics make the speaker coil move forward and back. This produces sound. In an enclosure, the sound waves will reflect off solid surfaces like glass and metal and be attenuated by softer surfaces like carpeting and the like. Flexible surfaces like door panels will also reflect sound waves but since they are flexible they will add distortion. If there is no surface to reflect (open window) then the sound just disappears "into thin air."
The above is in laymen's terms to make it simpler to understand.
It has a lot to do with weather, temperature, humidity, and whether your windows are down or up. I have a 600W RMS Woofer in my trunk that I like to bump and sometimes I have to prop the moon roof to get rid of vibrations. The more air there is for the woofer to move the less rattles you'll get (To elaborate on this, when you have your moon roof closed, the air is trapped inside, but when you open it the air can freely move in and out like a ported subwoofer box would move air in and out). Also, sometimes I notice that my whole back rear dashboard will rattle in the mornings but not in the evening. I tend to get better sound in the evenings when the car has warmed up a bit on the sun. On the other hand, the stock woofer only lasted me 2-3 days before I switched it out. I believe I posted a picture of it somewhere on these forums about it. It does take up a lot of space in my trunk, but it sounds amazing, and hits very hard:
This is the combo I have in the car besides the ECS audio setup that came with my Tech Package:
10 Farad Capacitor (I know capacitors are overrated, and what I choose was way over what I needed, but I still like to have it in there.)
4 Gauge Wire from Battery to Amp.
Hi to Low Head Unit Adapter (to allow for addition of a Sub and aftermarket speakers, etc. In this case just for the Sub)
I paid about $500 with professional installation. I didn't want to risk taking apart the interior of my brand you Acura when it was only 2-3 days old, so I figured I'll spend the extra $100 on installation with guys that actually know what they are doing. Of course once you do all of this, if you are the type that is annoyed by any vibrations, you might want to invest into some weather stripping and dynamat and insulate your car. This used to be the case for me with my Civic, I had to dynamat the whole trunk and rear dash board to prevent vibrations. My ILX didn't seem to need this, though the rear baby strap clips have plastic covers on that that tend to vibrate. Not hard to fix if you just get it stuck in there somehow and not let it vibrate. One thing that also helped on my Civic, though I didn't have to do it on my ILX was putting a thin foam of weather stripping around the edge of the rear window where the window may slighly touch with the rear dash board and that prevented a lot of vibrations for me.
I guess you really don't know how electronics work, do you?
The "bass" can't get "stronger" but the "bass" can cause the various bits and pieces to rattle and the rattle can lead to loosening which leads to more rattling.
Sound doesn't "punch through".
The electrics make the speaker coil move forward and back. This produces sound. In an enclosure, the sound waves will reflect off solid surfaces like glass and metal and be attenuated by softer surfaces like carpeting and the like. Flexible surfaces like door panels will also reflect sound waves but since they are flexible they will add distortion. If there is no surface to reflect (open window) then the sound just disappears "into thin air."
The above is in laymen's terms to make it simpler to understand.
Ceb.. U may be right or u may be wrong but when u come off as a "smart ass". Either way nobody wants to listen to what u have to say. Slow ya roll, have a convo, dont try to down grade my intelligence or make sombody feel stupid. Cuz you'll be the only stupid one talking about stupid shit no one care about.
While humidity and temperature technically affect sound waves, the affect within an enclosure (house, car, barn etc.) can't even be measured and can certainly not be heard. There may be other environmental effects that impact your perception of the sound but it isn't humidity or temperature.
While humidity and temperature technically affect sound waves, the affect within an enclosure (house, car, barn etc.) can't even be measured and can certainly not be heard. There may be other environmental effects that impact your perception of the sound but it isn't humidity or temperature.
Just found out that new speaker do have a break in period Depends mostly on stiffness of suspension and moving mass. Some can be considered "broken in" in a matter of a few hours. Larger/heavier/stiffer drivers after 50-100 hours at reasonable play-back levels.
Just found out that new speaker do have a break in period Depends mostly on stiffness of suspension and moving mass. Some can be considered "broken in" in a matter of a few hours. Larger/heavier/stiffer drivers after 50-100 hours at reasonable play-back levels.
Automotive speakers are well tested and there isn't anything to "break-in". Anything you may have read concerns very high end systems and many of those are tested well before they are ever shipped.
You may be interested in this which states in part:
Required break in time for the common spider-diaphragm-surround is typically on the order of 10s of seconds and is a one-off proposition, not requiring repetition. Once broken in, the driver should measure/perform as do its siblings, within usual unit-to-unit parameter tolerances.
Probably the most common approach used by manufacturers who purposely take the time to break in raw drivers is to apply a sine wave signal, at a frequency equivalent to the unit's free air resonance, delivered at amplitude sufficient to thoroughly stretch out the spider, without damaging the unit, of course
An alternate approach referred to in the literature is the use of broad band noise. However, this approach is inefficient when compared to the sine- wave-at-free-air-resonance approach.
Break in, however, isn't necessarily a discrete step, purpose built in to the driver or loudspeaker system manufacture process. Does that mean loudspeaker systems produced by a manufacturer that doesn't break in the drivers require breaking in by the consumer? No, not necessarily.
Quite often, spider break in occurs when the driver is tested, before and/or after placement in the cabinet for which it's intended. Driver testing by signal stimulus at some point (or points) in the manufacturing process - if done at levels sufficient to break in the spider - generally makes further break in unnecessary. Hence, a finished system will not - in so far as its drivers are concerned - require further break in by a consumer once taken home from the dealer.
While humidity and temperature technically affect sound waves, the affect within an enclosure (house, car, barn etc.) can't even be measured and can certainly not be heard. There may be other environmental effects that impact your perception of the sound but it isn't humidity or temperature.
I'm not an expert in this, but don't certain materials expand and contract in high heat or when the temperature is cold? It's possible certain insulation materials and plastic may soften, harden in certain temperatures changing the way you hear sound, especially when you stop hearing vibrations.
Ceb.. U may be right or u may be wrong but when u come off as a "smart ass". Either way nobody wants to listen to what u have to say. Slow ya roll, have a convo, dont try to down grade my intelligence or make sombody feel stupid. Cuz you'll be the only stupid one talking about stupid shit no one care about.
OMG, lol. Literally made me laugh.
Putting the Community College electronics lesson to the side, I have to agree with a lot of points Peti made. I too have noticed changes in sound due to temperature, time of day and wind flow.
The rear dash/speaker grill rattle I'm getting almost always happens on my lunch break when my car is extremely hot and sun beaming directly on the car. On a cool night or cold morning, I don't get any rattles. And I do believe I was able to get the rattle to stop on a hot day, once I opened my moon roof. I wrote it off as just a coincidence.
Regardless whether Doc Brown Bear's interpretation of Speaker Coil Vibrations and 1.21 Giggawats of Flux Capacitor movements is correct, I would have to say Peti made the best points as his set up is more extreme that the factory ELS audio and I would imagine, would exaggerate a lot of the imperfections our interior/cabins produce verses the weaker factory system which most of the imperfections go unnoticed to the average driver.
I'm not an expert in this, but don't certain materials expand and contract in high heat or when the temperature is cold? It's possible certain insulation materials and plastic may soften, harden in certain temperatures changing the way you hear sound, especially when you stop hearing vibrations.
Of course - but - not to the extent that it makes a difference in the system. It would have to be extremely uncomfortable for you. This is not a theoretical discussion about sound waves in sub-zero temps bouncing off otherwise pliable surfaces or sound waves on the surface of the sun. It is a discussion about real life audio in real life environments.
In real life situations, temps, humidity or new vs used speakers make no difference.
Of course - but - not to the extent that it makes a difference in the system. It would have to be extremely uncomfortable for you. This is not a theoretical discussion about sound waves in sub-zero temps bouncing off otherwise pliable surfaces or sound waves on the surface of the sun. It is a discussion about real life audio in real life environments.
In real life situations, temps, humidity or new vs used speakers make no difference.
I certainly would disagree with that. It has been proven many times that some woofers can reproduce sound and "hit" better at warmer temperatures rather than cold morning temperatures.
I certainly would disagree with that. It has been proven many times that some woofers can reproduce sound and "hit" better at warmer temperatures rather than cold morning temperatures.
10-06-2015, 09:10 PM
