mitsu 65" DLP tru-1080p

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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 05:14 PM
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Thumbs up mitsu 65" DLP tru-1080p

just scoped the new tru-1080p tvs at BB and circuit city, looked at Sony , Samsung and Mitsubishi. After viewing every tv when connected to blue ray, the Mitsubishi looked totally noticably better than the other 2, i was shocked as the older replicated DLP Sony sxrd60 was the better looking tv, but after trying a couple of different movies and hours of deliberation i went with the Mitsu 65". I took it home and connected to my Fios IPTV and the HD is immaculate, cant wait to get the PS3, anyone notice the picture quality difference on the tru-1080p and the replicated DLP,specific to the manufacturer?
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 10:55 PM
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I looked at both Sony and Mitsu at Circuit City this past weekend......IMHO the Sony SXRD has the better picture - sharper detail and brighter. Just a slight edge by Sony over the Mitsu IMHO.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 03:49 PM
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well i asked random people and had alot of peoples point of view, i would have been happy to spend more money for better quality but everyone i asked thought the mitsu looked better on the blu-ray, i thought the mitsu was the brightest and most defined
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 03:59 PM
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Not a big fan of the Mitsu DLP's. and in the past they only got so-so reviews, however, I have not really read anything on their 1080p models... so maybe they stepped it up this time around.

BTW, when you were comparing the TVs did you go to a higher end home theater store, or just to Best Buy or Circuit City. Personally I would never buy a TV based on what they look like in either store since they are always so terribly calibrated.

One other thing to check is that the TV can support a true 1080p input via HDMI. As far as I know, only the Samsung (came out this year) and HP (started with last year's models) 1080p sets can do this with the Sony's expected to have this support later this year. Sony may even be out by now. Not sure since I stopped follwing them. Again, not sure about the Mitsu DLPs... so you may want to do some reading on that b/c if it doesn't support it via HDMI, you won't be getting true 1080p via PS3 or the HD-DVD or BluRay players... it will just be upconverting the signal.
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 02:28 AM
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also check out the JVC line of LCOS 1080p sets. These sets and the sonys are brighter than sets taht uses DLP. Unlike the DLP, LCOS will not produce the rainbow effect that dlp are known for. Before purchasing my jvc set, i have visited many TV only stores (not bestbuy or big retailers) and have compare the JVC set with other tvs and have concluded that SONY/JVC offers the best picture quality. I suggest checking them out. If you have the $$, get the sony, if not, get the JVC both sets are good but i liked the sony more because it has a very nice remote.
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 12:00 PM
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^ Did JVC upgrade their HDMI ports to accept and show a true 1080p signal? I didn't think they were on the list of companies that did that this year... but I could be mistaken.
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 09:40 PM
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my tv has 2 hdmi ports and yes i use monster only (all true-1080p's do have HDMI of course in order to get 1080p and not 720p and older models of DLP arent true-dlp, but have a pc to replicate the image), and i went to a higher-end store, but bought at circuit city, because my friend is the manager, i also use fiber-optic cables for my sound for the best sound, i checked quality and tested with a samsung blu-ray and the mitsu looked the best for some reason, the higher end store said to go with sony, i went to circuit city and they had the sony, samsung and mitsu and everyone even random customers told me that the mitsubishi looked better than sony or samsung, not 1 person disagreed who i asked that question and i asked about 50 people



oh ya, if u buy a TV, make sure u invest in a monster surger protector, a cheap one will not do, accept no imitations
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by HyDrOpOnIkToKa
my tv has 2 hdmi ports and yes i use monster only (all true-1080p's do have HDMI of course in order to get 1080p and not 720p and older models of DLP arent true-dlp, but have a pc to replicate the image), and i went to a higher-end store, but bought at circuit city, because my friend is the manager, i also use fiber-optic cables for my sound for the best sound, i checked quality and tested with a samsung blu-ray and the mitsu looked the best for some reason, the higher end store said to go with sony, i went to circuit city and they had the sony, samsung and mitsu and everyone even random customers told me that the mitsubishi looked better than sony or samsung, not 1 person disagreed who i asked that question and i asked about 50 people



oh ya, if u buy a TV, make sure u invest in a monster surger protector, a cheap one will not do, accept no imitations
Sounds like you've bought into the Monster hype. Their products are nice, but they in no way command the premium that they charge.

Tripplite, for example, makes surge protectors that are far better than what Monster provides, IMHO.
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by juniorbean
^ Did JVC upgrade their HDMI ports to accept and show a true 1080p signal? I didn't think they were on the list of companies that did that this year... but I could be mistaken.

Yes, this years models (not released quite yet, but any day now).
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 10:38 AM
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Unless all of the TVs have been calibrated to the same specs. prior to your viewing you can't tell which is superior in the store as easily as some of you make it sound. It's just not possible, they will all be in different states of adjustment. And then to assume you can figure out all of the controls/features on all of the sets and adjust them equally in a short period of time is asinine. I've spent 100's of hours taking my TV apart and calibrating it via the service menus, manual focusing and I don't think I could go in and half ass adjust 3-4 TVs in even 5 hours. It takes a professional anywhere from 4-11 hours to do one set depending on the adjustments that can be made.

Unless your going into the store with a digital colormeter and your notebook computer, plus prior knowledge of all the service menus on the TV(s) you won't be able to adjust more than brightness,contrast,color. And maybe the iris on the projector depending on the mode the TV is in.

And then even if they are calibrated perfectly you need to know how much time is on the projection bulb. As that can easily swing your viewing experience.

There's so many factors here guys, it's not as simple as some of you make it sound... And I'm barely touching the surface of what would need to be done to make a fair comparison.

Being that I have personally seen the Sony and JVC 1080p LCoS TVs calibrated and next to one another amongst other calibrated 1080p DLP TVs. I can honestly say the technology is superior to DLP in many ways... easily seen in the picture.
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Scrib
Sounds like you've bought into the Monster hype. Their products are nice, but they in no way command the premium that they charge.

Tripplite, for example, makes surge protectors that are far better than what Monster provides, IMHO.


I have a surge protector purchased from Walmart that has a higher Joules protection rating then anything Best Buy or Circuit City sells and it cost like $40 verses the rediculous amount BB and CC wanted for Monster garbage.
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SiGGy
Yes, this years models (not released quite yet, but any day now).


Looks like the companies are slowly but surely getting their act together with this.
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by HyDrOpOnIkToKa
my tv has 2 hdmi ports and yes i use monster only (all true-1080p's do have HDMI of course in order to get 1080p and not 720p and older models of DLP arent true-dlp, but have a pc to replicate the image),
Again, Monster is a ripoff. Buy a cable from Monoprice.com. Gold plates, net jacket... 6' cable cost a tick over $17. These cables have been disected by AV fanatics on one of the AV forums along with Monster and the cables and PQ are identical. Further proving that Monster is overpriced and overhyped.

Also, I'm still confused. Just b/c this TV comes with HDMI does not mean that it supports 1080p input via HDMI. Last year many manufacturers have 1080p sets (Samsung, HP, Sony, etc), but only the HP accepted 1080p via HDMI. The other two had 2 HDMI ports, but neither supported 1080p. To get 1080p on those sets you need to use the VGA port.. so basically you needed a HTPC as a middle piece. That is changing as manufacturers are starting to release models with 1080p HDMI support. Again, I'm not up on the Mitsubishi's, but can anyone confirm these sets currently support 1080p via HDMI?
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by SiGGy
Unless all of the TVs have been calibrated to the same specs. prior to your viewing you can't tell which is superior in the store as easily as some of you make it sound. It's just not possible, they will all be in different states of adjustment. And then to assume you can figure out all of the controls/features on all of the sets and adjust them equally in a short period of time is asinine. I've spent 100's of hours taking my TV apart and calibrating it via the service menus, manual focusing and I don't think I could go in and half ass adjust 3-4 TVs in even 5 hours. It takes a professional anywhere from 4-11 hours to do one set depending on the adjustments that can be made.

Unless your going into the store with a digital colormeter and your notebook computer, plus prior knowledge of all the service menus on the TV(s) you won't be able to adjust more than brightness,contrast,color. And maybe the iris on the projector depending on the mode the TV is in.

And then even if they are calibrated perfectly you need to know how much time is on the projection bulb. As that can easily swing your viewing experience.

There's so many factors here guys, it's not as simple as some of you make it sound... And I'm barely touching the surface of what would need to be done to make a fair comparison.

Being that I have personally seen the Sony and JVC 1080p LCoS TVs calibrated and next to one another amongst other calibrated 1080p DLP TVs. I can honestly say the technology is superior to DLP in many ways... easily seen in the picture.
Agree, 100%, however, I would never recommend that you buy a TV based on what you see in CC or BB. Sure there are thousands of calibrations that can be made to a TV, but even so, I wouldn't trust the way they are setup in those stores. I always go to the higher end stores and compare there since typically they are calibrated better. I also do a ton of research online. Then, and only then do I narrow it down and make a decision.

Also, he references the Sony set as a DLP. AFAIK, Sony does not sell a DLP model in CC or BB...

.

Last edited by juniorbean; Sep 8, 2006 at 11:06 AM.
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by juniorbean
Again, I'm not up on the Mitsubishi's, but can anyone confirm these sets currently support 1080p via HDMI?
FYI, if you provide a model number I can probably find out online...
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 01:33 PM
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my TV is definately true-1080p via HDMI and HD via Fios and yes i am an avid monster fan, ive used monster throughout my car audio and computer speakers and couldnt be satisfied with the signal. Im sure there are better brands, but if you decide to use monster it will never let you down, i havent had any problems. others i know will agree

I went shopping for my television with my brother in law who sells high end projectors to sports stadiums and concerts domestic and internationally. In smaller words he knows his shit. he has like a $30,000 projector of his own, i was going to get a projector, but i couldnt afford anything he was giving me a deal on, 10,000+ anyways we viewed multiple televisions all over Dallas. Being that cost wasnt an issue on a television i wanted experts opinions and random people opinion of the quality,, i asked every employee there and with the dark detailer feature,2 million pixels and a 6-color light engine, i havent had anyone disagree.

i am not trying to be arrogant,i appreciate your comments and suggestions, i recognize and respect everyone whom has posted



http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/j/i/183...s.html?cid=524
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 01:42 PM
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about the calibration on the TVs, the CC i work at we keep all the TV settings to factory specs, how would you go about comparing two different tvs by changing the settings? if u know what im trying to ask
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 02:01 PM
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monster is quality, read up




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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 02:02 PM
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i agree yungin, my tv automatically adjusts to different lights etc... , the only thing i had to intricately tune was my new receiver for the surround sound and the bass


oh ya, i paid $150 for the surge protector and got a free HDMI, and got a real nice maxim tv stand for free too

Last edited by HyDrOpOnIkToKa; Sep 8, 2006 at 02:04 PM.
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Old Sep 8, 2006 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by HyDrOpOnIkToKa
my TV is definately true-1080p via HDMI and HD via Fios and yes i am an avid monster fan, ive used monster throughout my car audio and computer speakers and couldnt be satisfied with the signal. Im sure there are better brands, but if you decide to use monster it will never let you down, i havent had any problems. others i know will agree
Interesting... did some reading on that set. Could be one of the first sets where both HDMI inputs support 1080p input (typically one is 1080p and one is 720p or 1080i). Good to know! May have to keep my eye on this set.

Also, just wanted to say I hope my posts didn't offend in anyway. As I stated several times, I am not very familiar with Mistubishi's TVs b/c of the rep they got in the past, however, it's obvious they've come a long way and make some great changes in their sets. So my questions were more out of curiousity then doubt.

Oh and FYR, you should hop over to AVSForum.com when you have some free time (and I mean that literally... I've been on there for HOURS at a time reading one topic). Several of the audio/videophiles have disected Monster's cables and compared them to lower price solutions like those offered by monoprice.com and other similar sites, and they've found little to no difference in construction and PQ. I originally bought into the Monster hype, but after trying other cables found that the monoprice cables are just as good as the Monster, and cost about $100-$150+ less, depending on size.

But, everyone has their preferences, so a few posts on a forum won't be enough to change anyone's mind. Personally, I like hearing everyone's input. Helps me become more informed for when it's time to buy yet another TV


.

Last edited by juniorbean; Sep 8, 2006 at 03:30 PM.
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 03:12 PM
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i just found out that i can hook up an external HD via firewire and use it as a DVR, so i have a built in TV-GUIDE cable card built in which im not sure how it works, but i somehow can use the built in program like Tivo , but i get to specify my HDD size
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by juniorbean


I have a surge protector purchased from Walmart that has a higher Joules protection rating then anything Best Buy or Circuit City sells and it cost like $40 verses the rediculous amount BB and CC wanted for Monster garbage.
I would definetly recommend purchasing a UPS to power any RPTV that uses a bulb, even after the TV is turned 'off' there generally is a fan that stays on for 5-10 minutes that assist in cooling down the bulb. If you have a power outtage, the fans goes out as well which risk the bulb not having enough time to cool down and 300$ later you will wish you had the UPS
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 11:10 PM
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I have had my WD 57732 Mitzi for about a month now...I f'n love it

Im actually using my mac mini on it right now...it is clear as hell. I use the DVI imput with a DVI cable straight from the mini and it shows up in 1080p (so the tv says when it calibrates the connection) talk about multitasking on a 57" monitor, hehe.


I was a sony guy prior to this but this is the best damn tv I've seen in a while, 2 of my buddies have gone out and purchased the larger 65" versions...and my dad is seriously looking into the 73" version

both HDMI imputs support 1080p but Im not buying a 1kDVD player yet
I can wait a while


My review = this tv is the shit!
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 09:01 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by HyDrOpOnIkToKa
my TV is definately true-1080p via HDMI and HD via Fios
Where did you see the singal coming in over Fios @ 1080P?
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by JSuppi
I would definetly recommend purchasing a UPS to power any RPTV that uses a bulb, even after the TV is turned 'off' there generally is a fan that stays on for 5-10 minutes that assist in cooling down the bulb. If you have a power outtage, the fans goes out as well which risk the bulb not having enough time to cool down and 300$ later you will wish you had the UPS
Our fan only stays on for about 2-4 minutes, then it kicks off. Even if the power is cut off while the fan is on, as long as you don't immediately turn the TV on after turning it off the bulb will be allowed time to cool on its own. This is standard operating procedure for a DLP anyway. In fact, it says right in the manual several times not to turn the TV on immediately after turning it off. Since we're well aware of this, the power could go out at anytime and we'd still be fine... so no need for those overpriced UPS systems or those Monster surge protectors. Additionally, the 5-year warranty covers bulbs, so aside from knowing the proper way to use a DLP, I'm covered with the warranty.
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 12:08 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by JSuppi
I would definetly recommend purchasing a UPS to power any RPTV that uses a bulb, even after the TV is turned 'off' there generally is a fan that stays on for 5-10 minutes that assist in cooling down the bulb. If you have a power outtage, the fans goes out as well which risk the bulb not having enough time to cool down and 300$ later you will wish you had the UPS
what is a UPS?
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 12:10 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by juniorbean
Our fan only stays on for about 2-4 minutes, then it kicks off. Even if the power is cut off while the fan is on, as long as you don't immediately turn the TV on after turning it off the bulb will be allowed time to cool on its own. This is standard operating procedure for a DLP anyway. In fact, it says right in the manual several times not to turn the TV on immediately after turning it off. Since we're well aware of this, the power could go out at anytime and we'd still be fine... so no need for those overpriced UPS systems or those Monster surge protectors. Additionally, the 5-year warranty covers bulbs, so aside from knowing the proper way to use a DLP, I'm covered with the warranty.
so wait? if the power goes off...the bulb will just naturally cool? or does it have a chance of getting fucked up?
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by yunginTL
what is a UPS?
Uninterruptible Power Supply. Basically a battery backup system. Completely unnecessary for a TV IMO...
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 08:49 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by yunginTL
so wait? if the power goes off...the bulb will just naturally cool? or does it have a chance of getting fucked up?
Of course it will. Ever touch a light bulb when it's on? Hot as hell, right? Turn it off for 5 minutes. Now you can touch it all you want.
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