thunder04

iTrader: (1)

On Sunday I discovered that my water heater is leaking. It's not too bad yet, but based on the rust I found just inside the cover under the temp control it's been leaking for a while.

I could do the water heater replacement myself except that the T&P valve is connected via solid copper pipe as opposed to the flexible pipe used for the cold and hot supply connections. I have never sweated copper before.

Using solid copper pipe, could I use those Shark-Bite connectors to plumb the T&P valve?

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

I'm confused. You're replacing the water heater. The new one will come with a pressure release valve.

Are you saying you're only replacing the release valve on the existing water heater?

If you want just the release valve here is one with a Sharkbite connector.

doopstr

Yep, the GE I bought from HomeDepot came with a new one. BTW I used the shark bite on my water in/out pipes, sweet.

I hope the drain on your existing tank isn't in the condition mine was in. Mine was clogged, I had to remove the valve from the tank and aim the water into my sump pump.

For now on I will do proper drain maintenance.

SuperTrooper169

iTrader: (2)

I thought about changing mine when it went out in my condo back it the day, but the installation was dirt cheap from Home Depot and the guy was done in less than an hour. Just say'n.

thunder04

iTrader: (1)

I am replacing the entier water heater. The T&P valve is plumbed into copper that goes through the wall to the outside, and all the joints are soldered. To disconnect it, I'd either need to cut the pipe or de-solder one of the joints. I have the tools to cut it, but not to re-solder. See the picture below:



In any case, I have a family friend coming over tomorrow to help me do the water heater swap. I know it's a fairly straight forward job, but since I've never been involved in replacing one and he happens to be available, I decided to wait for his help.

Hmm...I hope we don't have a problem draining the old water heater! It's 13 years old, so hopefully the drain valve is in OK shape. The water here isn't very hard...

Here's what I found last week with my current water heater:



There's also a small wet area (roughly 3-4 inches in diameter) under it.

The replacement water heater:



It's a Whirlpool 6th Sense 50-Gallon 12-Year model NU50T122-403. It was the most energy efficient water heater I could find in-stock in my area that doesn't need power (picked it up from Lowe's in Dublin...it fit perfectly in the back of the Escape ). It has a claimed energy factor of .62. It has aluminum anodes as opposed to magnesium (which seem to be better in terms of protecting the tank), but I read that magnesium anodes can cause eggy smelling hot water.

doopstr

Good luck!

Good move getting one that doesn't need electric. I made sure that my replacement heater also did not need any electric. After Sandy I had no electric for over a week. One of the things that kept me sane was that we had hot water so taking a daily shower was possible.

thunder04

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!

The thing that is intriguing to me about this water heater is that the gas control is electronic and has a basic diagnostic system, but it doesn't need power. It somehow generates the power it needs via the pilot light!

thunder04

iTrader: (1)

New water heater installed! Was painless to do.

Acura_Dude

That looks great!

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

Interesting. I've never seen the release valve plumbed to the outside. All the ones I've seen just end a few feet from the ground.

Edit: yup looks like a CA requirement. Same with the strapping.

svtmike

All kinds of weirdness there. Flex lines (probably for earthquakes), looks like the furnace fresh air intake on the inside.

But that release valve going outside makes no sense to me especially with the catch pan underneath the heater.

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

and in all my years I've never seen a release valve open up.

svtmike

I've had one go bad and open up.

thunder04

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, the flexible water lines and strapping are for earthquakes. My previous water heater didn't have a pan. I don't know if it's a requirement these days for my area, but I decided to use one with the new heater anyway in case of a leak. Behind the water heater is the twin's bedroom...the last room I'd want to have to deal with water damage. The PVC coming off the pan just goes to the garage floor. svtmike guessed correctly, the larger PVC on the left side of the image is the intake for the furnace burner (I don't have a prize, unfortunately ).

Funny story, sort of...My parents had the thermostat of a water heater go bad. It would stick in the "on" position and continue heating past the set temp. The T&P valve being plumed to the exterior of the house allowed them to continue using the water heater for a few more months . The temp would rise, the T&P valve would blow and dump water for a minute or two, close, and be OK for a few hours or so. It was their 2nd home and weren't there every day (they'd turn the water heater off when away).

svtmike

Around here, both the intake and the exhaust have to be plumbed to the outside for direct vent furnaces and water heaters, and the pipes are configured so the intake can't just pull in the exhaust.

thunder04

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I thought it was weird that the intake pulled air from the garage (then again, my old furnace simply had a grate on the upper panel and no intake "inlet" of any sort). The exhaust is plumbed to the roof (which is just outside of the frame), as is the exhaust of the water heater. The guys who installed the HVAC system did extensive draft testing to make sure exhaust gasses were not leaking outside their respective ducting, so until something fails I'm safe

What I think is the weirdest is how they did the gas connection to the furnace. There are a bit more joints than necessary...I think they simply put together pieces of what they had on the truck. I may re-do it sometime before winter.