Installing water line for fridge
#1
Someone stole "My Garage"
Thread Starter
Installing water line for fridge
Hey everyone.
Just a few questions before I go getting full of drywall dust, etc... while installing the water line for our forthcoming fridge w/ water and icemaker.
1. Since the fridge is located against a wall but the sink and dishwasher are located in the island, I can't easily tap into the water lines for the sink because A: ceramic tile doesn't allow easy running of lines under the floor, B: it's likely one floor joist over making a fishing expedition a possible headache, and C: I have another option --> use the water line that feeds the garden tap in the garage which basically backs right onto the fridge wall. Is it OK to tap into the line that feeds a garden hose, considering possible bacteria/mildew problems?
2. Using the saddle valves on rigid plastic piping -- is this OK? Most places online say its OK as long as you pre-drill the hole the same as if you were tapping into an iron (not copper) pipe, to avoid crushing the line. What are the drawbacks to tapping into plastic piping?
Thanks!
Eric
Just a few questions before I go getting full of drywall dust, etc... while installing the water line for our forthcoming fridge w/ water and icemaker.
1. Since the fridge is located against a wall but the sink and dishwasher are located in the island, I can't easily tap into the water lines for the sink because A: ceramic tile doesn't allow easy running of lines under the floor, B: it's likely one floor joist over making a fishing expedition a possible headache, and C: I have another option --> use the water line that feeds the garden tap in the garage which basically backs right onto the fridge wall. Is it OK to tap into the line that feeds a garden hose, considering possible bacteria/mildew problems?
2. Using the saddle valves on rigid plastic piping -- is this OK? Most places online say its OK as long as you pre-drill the hole the same as if you were tapping into an iron (not copper) pipe, to avoid crushing the line. What are the drawbacks to tapping into plastic piping?
Thanks!
Eric
#2
Someone stole "My Garage"
Thread Starter
OK here's a floorplan:
http://www.mintohomes.com/Ottawa/our..._ID=70&CO_ID=3
![](http://www.mintohomes.com/Ottawa/images/floorplan/royalton1.gif)
As you can see, the fridge backs onto the common wall with the garage. The garage is fully drywalled but I have no problem cutting into that drywall vs. the nice drywall inside the house, to do this job. The exterior tap would be roughly between the centre of the MW and the fridge.
Any options I might have not thought of, or any opinions on the task?
http://www.mintohomes.com/Ottawa/our..._ID=70&CO_ID=3
![](http://www.mintohomes.com/Ottawa/images/floorplan/royalton1.gif)
As you can see, the fridge backs onto the common wall with the garage. The garage is fully drywalled but I have no problem cutting into that drywall vs. the nice drywall inside the house, to do this job. The exterior tap would be roughly between the centre of the MW and the fridge.
Any options I might have not thought of, or any opinions on the task?
#4
Someone stole "My Garage"
Thread Starter
It has a filter, yes, but you never want to leave removing bacteria to a cheap filter in a fridge, know what I mean?
Its all a common supply, but I was more concerned with it being exposed from the garden hose end fo things, to bacteria, etc. Probably a false concern though --> I drank from the garden hose all the time as a kid and I turned out sorta fine. LOL!
Its all a common supply, but I was more concerned with it being exposed from the garden hose end fo things, to bacteria, etc. Probably a false concern though --> I drank from the garden hose all the time as a kid and I turned out sorta fine. LOL!
#6
Someone stole "My Garage"
Thread Starter
To be honest I've never seen kitchens have water lines for fridges (at least not on the friendly side of the drywall).
Maybe it's a local or national thing? Do the ones you know of always have the connection on the friendly side or are they just coiled up behind the drywall, hidden from view until you pull out a drywall knife?
Maybe it's a local or national thing? Do the ones you know of always have the connection on the friendly side or are they just coiled up behind the drywall, hidden from view until you pull out a drywall knife?
#7
Bent = #1
There is usually a line coming from the wall that just connects up to the fridge. I tried finding a picture but no luck. I have seen this in my house that is from the 80s, my parents new house, and my gfs place at college. I thought this was the common thing?
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#8
is learning to moonwalk i
I don't think tying into the garage water line would be a problem at all. The saddle valves, though, I don't really know. If it's rigid plastic (PVC?) pipe, then you should be ablle to cut out a short (~1") section and install a "T" to branch off to the fridge.
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#9
Originally Posted by curls
Its all a common supply, but I was more concerned with it being exposed from the garden hose end fo things, to bacteria, etc. Probably a false concern though --> I drank from the garden hose all the time as a kid and I turned out sorta fine. LOL!
#10
Pro
Your floor plan shows stairs down, does this mean there is a basement under the kitchen? Is it unfinished? If so you can run a water line to the area under the fridge and come up through the floor instead of a wall.
Which ever way you go make sure you have a separate shutoff for the line going to the fridge.
Which ever way you go make sure you have a separate shutoff for the line going to the fridge.
#11
Someone stole "My Garage"
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by kcroberge
Your floor plan shows stairs down, does this mean there is a basement under the kitchen? Is it unfinished? If so you can run a water line to the area under the fridge and come up through the floor instead of a wall.
Which ever way you go make sure you have a separate shutoff for the line going to the fridge.
Which ever way you go make sure you have a separate shutoff for the line going to the fridge.
I measured the tap in the garage today and it's about 18-20" from the back corner of the fridge. I'll probably come out through the wall behind the cabinet, put a shutoff valve there, and run the line itself from the cabinet to behind the fridge.
#12
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Personally I'd never use a saddle valve. They tend to leak. Install a t fitting and use copper tubing with compression fittings and you'll never have to worry about leaks.
#14
Someone stole "My Garage"
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Zippee
You can buy a back flow preventer that goes on the outlet where the hose connects to keep anything comming back into the supply line, they are common when hooking up a camper. Should be able to find them at a "big box" hardware store or a camper place.
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#15
Someone stole "My Garage"
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
Personally I'd never use a saddle valve. They tend to leak. Install a t fitting and use copper tubing with compression fittings and you'll never have to worry about leaks.
#16
Someone stole "My Garage"
Thread Starter
OK, this sucks... I spent a few minutes hacking the drywall in the garage to get behind the tap, and its a joist. No getting through that without way too much work.
So my options are, in no particular order:
A: Cut a hole in the drywall behind the fridge and *hope* that I can see a water line from either the sink or the garage tap
B: Call the previous owner and ask him to tell me exactly where the damn shutoff valve is for the garage tap and at the same time hopefully I'll see the line and a way I can access it from the basement.
C: Wait a few weeks until my dad (electrician) or father in law (handyman extraordinaire) get here to have them try.
D: Wait until my friend closes on a house in 1.5 weeks, as his unit is identical to mine (but mirror-imaged), and has a drop-ceiling in the basement. Hopefully I'll be able to get a clearer view of the water lines from his and apply that to mine. HOWEVER, his home was built 2 years after mine, so things may have changed. Hard to know for sure.
What option should I go with?
So my options are, in no particular order:
A: Cut a hole in the drywall behind the fridge and *hope* that I can see a water line from either the sink or the garage tap
B: Call the previous owner and ask him to tell me exactly where the damn shutoff valve is for the garage tap and at the same time hopefully I'll see the line and a way I can access it from the basement.
C: Wait a few weeks until my dad (electrician) or father in law (handyman extraordinaire) get here to have them try.
D: Wait until my friend closes on a house in 1.5 weeks, as his unit is identical to mine (but mirror-imaged), and has a drop-ceiling in the basement. Hopefully I'll be able to get a clearer view of the water lines from his and apply that to mine. HOWEVER, his home was built 2 years after mine, so things may have changed. Hard to know for sure.
What option should I go with?
#17
is learning to moonwalk i
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#18
Someone stole "My Garage"
Thread Starter
It connects, but RIGHT behind the drywall is a joist, which the tap pipe goes through. Below the joist is concrete for the foundation of the garage, and above the joist is a 2x4 that I don't want to remove unless its my only option.
#19
Pro
I would wait for the handyman. Info from your friends house will most likely not be identical to yours, they seldom are even when built at the same time with the same plumbers.
There has to be an access panel somewhere along the kitchen wall or in the basement in the vicinity of the garage spigot. If not, the shutoff is most likely under your kitchen sink, which won't help you much. There has to be access to the shutoff somewhere.
The finished basement sucks (in this case only!). This is another reason not to use the saddle valve and to use plastic tubing to connect to the fridge, you don't want a leak over the basement ceiling.
There has to be an access panel somewhere along the kitchen wall or in the basement in the vicinity of the garage spigot. If not, the shutoff is most likely under your kitchen sink, which won't help you much. There has to be access to the shutoff somewhere.
The finished basement sucks (in this case only!). This is another reason not to use the saddle valve and to use plastic tubing to connect to the fridge, you don't want a leak over the basement ceiling.
#20
Someone stole "My Garage"
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by kcroberge
There has to be an access panel somewhere along the kitchen wall or in the basement in the vicinity of the garage spigot. If not, the shutoff is most likely under your kitchen sink, which won't help you much. There has to be access to the shutoff somewhere.
BTW: The tap is currently "off" so its definitely not connected to the same supply shutoff as the kitchen tap.
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#21
is learning to moonwalk i
Originally Posted by curls
It connects, but RIGHT behind the drywall is a joist, which the tap pipe goes through. Below the joist is concrete for the foundation of the garage, and above the joist is a 2x4 that I don't want to remove unless its my only option.
If the there is a joist right behind the drywall and the pipe goes through it, then shouldn't you be able to break the drywall on the other side (in the kitchen) and the other end of the pipe - where it likely turns in some direction.
#22
Someone stole "My Garage"
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by moeronn
Can you post a picture?
If the there is a joist right behind the drywall and the pipe goes through it, then shouldn't you be able to break the drywall on the other side (in the kitchen) and the other end of the pipe - where it likely turns in some direction.
If the there is a joist right behind the drywall and the pipe goes through it, then shouldn't you be able to break the drywall on the other side (in the kitchen) and the other end of the pipe - where it likely turns in some direction.
I would probably be able to measure from there to a common point, and break through the kitchen side, yes. HOWEVER, I know for a fact that I'd have to go through my kitchen cabinet backing to do this exploration -- something I don't want to do just yet until its a latter option. It might be about 6" or more below the level of the cabinet bottoms as well, making accessing nearly impossible on that tap/line altogether.
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