Garage Flooring Options

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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 02:49 PM
  #1  
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Garage Flooring Options

I would like to add some garage flooring to avoid damage to the garage.

Down the line I would like to get a scissor lift so would like to get flooring which would be lift friendly.

Please share any experience/options/deals.

I have thought about the following:

1> epoxy
http://www.ucoatit.com/2011web/main.htm

I dont think I have the skill-set to do this right

2> rubber mats
cheap and effective but not the best looking

3> rubber tiles
I would like to go this route. Anyone has any experience with these?

http://www.techfloor.com/design-a-floor/12-x-12-tiles/

http://www.rubberflooringinc.com/gar...ane-tiles.html

http://www.rubberflooringinc.com/gar...loc-tiles.html

http://www.rubberflooringinc.com/gar...loc-tiles.html

Which one is better? the coin/diamond/octane?

What color should I get?

I have a NBP TL and the wifey has a golden ES300. The house is mocha in color....

Here is the garage layout:



any help will be highly appreciated.
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 03:09 PM
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I would go epoxy.. it holds up reasonably well. A buddy of mine has done a burnout on it to test it. It may scuff over time, but not all that difficult to redo, just use a quality kit. I've heard a lot of buzz recently over the rubber tiles. I just think the look overall protection and utility with epoxy is better. I know csmeance has epoxy floors. I believe his 760i tank has ripped them up in some areas but has held up okay otherwise. It's really not difficult to do. Just prep it right, take your time and let it cure properly.
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 03:12 PM
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I've always wanted to do a blue with flake white and black rock chips.. similar to this:

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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 03:17 PM
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That does look good....

I have heard great things about epoxy but couple things why I was running away from it was:

1> I am not known for perfection or patience LOL2
2> I would like to have it done before the winter kicks into overdrive. I dont think my concrete is ready to be preped yet....
3> If we have to sell the house, I cant take the floor with me. The new guy might not like the color and I dont want to tear the epoxy down myself....

These are the reasons why I was more inclined towards rubber tiles...
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 04:23 PM
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Well.. what's a big advantage is your garage floor is brand new. So prep time will be cut in half and you'll be ready to go (assuming there isn't a layer of sealant on the garage floor)

Follow this guide, it's very thorough:

http://www.squidoo.com/epoxyfloorprep

You can pay for someone to do it, but it's really not that bad. I guess if you don't have the patience.. it's better to pay.

Regarding selling.. you just bought, relax. Epoxy floors are a big bonus. As long as you don't pick yellow and pink I think you'll be fine.
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 04:26 PM
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Damn that guide is very comprehensive...i like !!!

ok what colors would you choose? I need to paint the garage walls as well. So help me pick colors for walls and flooring
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 04:38 PM
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Personally.. for my remodel (pending).. I was going to go with blue epoxy w/ black white chips and a two-tone wall scheme with a red barrier stripe. Dark grey lower, with a fade red stripe followed by a white / creme wall and ceiling... or straight gun metal grey all-around. Also install new ballasts for arrayed florescents or halogen drop downs.
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 04:42 PM
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^^^ Thats gonna look sick !!!

got an image you have seen to give you that idea? I lack imagination
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 04:46 PM
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Something like this minus the checkered flag floor..





Although I dig the dark grey, light grey scheme.. hmmm..





Whatever you do.. do it before you clutter up the garage, pit the floor and get oil all over.
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 04:48 PM
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Nice...

I was thinking gray and black checkered floor....I think that looks neat and not tooo flamboyant....

I like the wall color as well....am not sure about the 2 tone....I might just do it a little darker gray than he checkered flag on the floor...
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 04:51 PM
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I was thinking dark grey to go with my stainless steel racks and I'm thinking of going stainless steel cabinets and workbench as well. I don't have a 3 door garage so I'm limited in my space. I already have pulley racks to hold up the rec equipment to save some space. Instead of red stripe.. you can go any accent.. was even thinking a blue to match the epoxy.

Draw it up.. and do eeet!!!
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 04:52 PM
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I don't like the checkered floor personally.

But it's your garage
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 04:58 PM
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yup...personal preference....I would love to do a black and blue checkered flag but trying to resist LOL
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 08:15 PM
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I vote for the epoxy floor.


I think the checkered floor gets old-quickly. And I think the black might fade possibly too.
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 10:28 PM
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I would avoid rubber tiles -- if you hose out / wash the garage you may accumulate water under them leading to mold.

Epoxy coating a floor is no different than painting a wall. Just clean it well (shouldn't be hard when new) and use the etching solution if it isn't rough concrete.

I will be laying porcelain unglazed/polished tiles in my workshop when we get the new house. I will also be laying down some under-tile heaters so it's not so cold on the back. The only down side for you is that you will likely need to cut and patch tile when you put in the lift so you can put it on the slab. Keep in mind that your slab should be at least 4" thick to support a 2-post lift.
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 08:46 AM
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i like the checkered floor
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Steven Bell
I vote for the epoxy floor.


I think the checkered floor gets old-quickly. And I think the black might fade possibly too.


Originally Posted by Tehvine
I would avoid rubber tiles -- if you hose out / wash the garage you may accumulate water under them leading to mold.

Epoxy coating a floor is no different than painting a wall. Just clean it well (shouldn't be hard when new) and use the etching solution if it isn't rough concrete.

I will be laying porcelain unglazed/polished tiles in my workshop when we get the new house. I will also be laying down some under-tile heaters so it's not so cold on the back. The only down side for you is that you will likely need to cut and patch tile when you put in the lift so you can put it on the slab. Keep in mind that your slab should be at least 4" thick to support a 2-post lift.
I am thinking of a scissor lift....but makes a ton of sense with the mold under the tiles....

I think I am convinced to but a rubber mat for now and then later down the line Epoxy it....they have poured the concrete just couple months back and am not sure if the concrete is ready to be preped and also, I would like to get this done before crazy winter begins LOL....

Originally Posted by coykiam
i like the checkered floor
me too....


I spoke with Steve yesterday and looks like this is what am getting:

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/g-floor...navAction=push

Just wanna make my mind on the mat color and the wall color...
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 09:57 AM
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^ So the rubber mat is just laying down and that's it? I might be interested in doing something like this.
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 10:00 AM
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comes in a roll of 10'x22' (standard garage size) and all you gotta do is, open the package and unroll it
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 10:05 AM
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I'll let you try it out first hehe
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 10:13 AM
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Dennis, do the epoxy.
I'll even help you apply it.
Ive done it before.
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 10:16 AM
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The roll outs can be $600-$1000!
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by justnspace
Dennis, do the epoxy.
I'll even help you apply it.
Ive done it before.
How hard is it?
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 10:20 AM
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Dennis, as mentioned epoxy is not bad at all....

I just dont want the concrete to be damaged by the snow. If I had gotten the house around summer, I would have def done epoxy as I would have had a lot of time for the concrete/epoxy to cure.....
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by TLDude876
How hard is it?
dude...
the TL's Mods are much more difficult.

this is just like painting a wall.
except; its the ground.
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 10:46 AM
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I was viewing that thread roger555 made and it seems like a lot of work. Well since you say it is easy, I hope you really help out and not sit around and talk shit
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 10:51 AM
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^^^ or maybe he will spread some crab juice on sauceja in your master while you do the floor LOL
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 11:00 AM
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You got it twisted A.

New concrete floors are the best to epoxy, easy to prep as long as they didn't lay down a sealant. Don't waste your money on tiles if you truly want to epoxy. It shouldn't take more than 2 days to do. If it's really cold there, get a space heater to help the cure process.
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 11:04 AM
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^^^ Majofo, what if the concrete cracks as a settling process of the house....will that damage the epoxy as well....

think am convinced to do epoxy
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 11:05 AM
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Dude.. if you garage floor cracks, you have other issues to be worried about. Garage floors shouldn't crack as part of the natural settling process.

Trust me, the epoxy will hold up.
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 11:18 AM
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^^^ well I am seeing very very tiny cracks on my concrete and the guy is telling me its from the house settling down....

my ex-girls parents had gotten a house in STL and they had couple cracks in their concrete which the builder fixed....when they did a 11month walk through...

so I just wanna make sure am not gonna get fudged up over here....

also, how does this look for a ~630sq ft garage:

Qty Item Retail Price
1 2020 UCoat Medium Gray Kit $249.95
1 2021 UCoat Medium Gray Single Pack $124.95
1 4010 UFlek-AF Granite Kit $234.95
1 4011 UFlek-AF Granite Single Pack $104.95
Estimated cost* : $714.80

This is what their project estimator is giving me
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 11:30 AM
  #32  
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yeah.. because your garage is just over 600.. the extra single packs are needed.. although that material could roughly cover up to 900 sq ft. The UCoatIt website has the prices.. they match.


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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 11:48 AM
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Last question Majofo....

how will the floor/epoxy survive a lift like this:

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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 11:50 AM
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and with jack stands and floor jacks...
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 11:50 AM
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Well the lift should be anchored and static.. You shouldn't worry about it.

Jack stands and floor jacks are no problem. Just prep, and let it cure properly and it should hold up.
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 11:53 AM
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^^^ the fronts are static...the rear has wheels which kinda roll/drag on the surface
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 11:57 AM
  #37  
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ah.. no, the epoxy won't hold.
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 11:59 AM
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you got PM
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
Last question Majofo....

how will the floor/epoxy survive a lift like this:

Not enough life insurance in the world for me to climb under that.
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 12:55 PM
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??? a lot of shops are using it

our own Paul uses the same lift....plus this would mainly be for brakes/rotate tires/suspension....def not for sitting under there and building an exhaust....

any reason you dislike it? have you heard horror stories?
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