Garage Floor Paint
#1
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Hello,
I figure many of you are car enthusiasts and might have painted your garage floor.
I wanted to know if anyone has, what product did they use? and how did the finished product turn out?
The paint that is primarily is an epoxy based paint. I am sure home depot and lowes would carry a product for painting your garage floor.
I was thinking of getting the paint from
http://www.ucoatit.com./main.html
select COLOR SELECTOR to get an idea of the look that your garage floor would have or from MENU, choose photo gallery.
What are your thoughts?
I figure many of you are car enthusiasts and might have painted your garage floor.
I wanted to know if anyone has, what product did they use? and how did the finished product turn out?
The paint that is primarily is an epoxy based paint. I am sure home depot and lowes would carry a product for painting your garage floor.
I was thinking of getting the paint from
http://www.ucoatit.com./main.html
select COLOR SELECTOR to get an idea of the look that your garage floor would have or from MENU, choose photo gallery.
What are your thoughts?
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#2
The builder that I used to work for used to sell epoxy floors as an option. Very nice but make sure that the epoxy flooring that has a high heat resistance rating. I heard that the stuff that Home Depot sells tends to bubble up when you park your car in the garage if your tires are hot.
#3
I have seen the Ucoatit applied on a garage floor. Make sure you pick a color you definetly like. This garage had sort of a grayish/sand colored tint to it (not my preference). One of the options that was included was the grit that you sprinkle into the epoxy, which aids traction. The downsides are that you aren't supposed to use industrial cleaners on it, if you change your oil and it spills, you've got to hurry, so it will clean up before it stains.
I think I would rather have those grids that lock into each other. I'm not sure what the name of the company is, but they are similar to the rubber grids in a hockey rink. They make all different colors and some have diamond plates designs.
-Chad
I think I would rather have those grids that lock into each other. I'm not sure what the name of the company is, but they are similar to the rubber grids in a hockey rink. They make all different colors and some have diamond plates designs.
-Chad
![Cool](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
#4
never stops!
I got the Gray one with the flecks, matches the flecks in my NBP. Very nice and easy to apply. Kits contains everything wht you need.
http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp...56&SBL=1&dds=5
http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp...56&SBL=1&dds=5
#5
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by joganjani
I got the Gray one with the flecks, matches the flecks in my NBP. Very nice and easy to apply. Kits contains everything wht you need.
http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp...56&SBL=1&dds=5
http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp...56&SBL=1&dds=5
I've studied this for a couple of years now. Very few people who have painted their floors have been very happy with it long term. Tires lift paint, it gets scraped etc.
I plan to tile mine with 12" square commercial tiles that you can buy from Lowes or Home Depot for .59 per square. I did the outside raised section of my garage with it two years ago, and will probably do the rest this winter. I know people who have done this and are very happy with the results.
#6
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I have used the garage floor paint from Griot's Garage, on two garage floors and was very satisfied with the results. After five years there was no peeling or tire marks. The only issue is that it is fairly expensive. It comes in gray and tan. It is a little slippery when it gets wet.
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#8
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Basically to do a good long lasting job with the Home Depot class epoxy paints, you have to thoroughly clean the floor, then treat the concrete with muric acid, then apply at least two coats of paint. Without the treatment, the paint will lift within a year.
#9
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Originally Posted by jjsC5
I've studied this for a couple of years now. Very few people who have painted their floors have been very happy with it long term. Tires lift paint, it gets scraped etc.
I plan to tile mine with 12" square commercial tiles that you can buy from Lowes or Home Depot for .59 per square. I did the outside raised section of my garage with it two years ago, and will probably do the rest this winter. I know people who have done this and are very happy with the results.
I plan to tile mine with 12" square commercial tiles that you can buy from Lowes or Home Depot for .59 per square. I did the outside raised section of my garage with it two years ago, and will probably do the rest this winter. I know people who have done this and are very happy with the results.
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
![](http://www.pifiu.com/upload/uploads/052004/5197032673.jpeg)
![](http://www.pifiu.com/upload/uploads/052004/DSC00665.jpg)
#11
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![Wink](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/icons/icon12.gif)
Originally Posted by joganjani
I got the Gray one with the flecks, matches the flecks in my NBP. Very nice and easy to apply. Kits contains everything wht you need.
http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp...56&SBL=1&dds=5
http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp...56&SBL=1&dds=5
As mentioned, it has black, blue, and white flecks you throw on the wet gray paint like confetti. It's fun and the blue matches the blue in my NBP TL. The neighbors get a show everytime I park in the garage at night and open my door and the Blue LED door lights shine on the sparkling clean new floor.
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#12
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Thanks for all the advice. If I use the paint method I will have go with rust-oleum or armstrong.
I really like the idea of the tile. I am sure it is much more labor intensive. Although my house is new and doesn't have any stains on the floor it is 660sq.ft., which will add to my workload.
The other thing is my wife doesn't take good care of her car, her SUV seems to dirty the garage real quickly. Also I have sons, who seem to be smashing, banging, or spilling something in the garage.
If I go the paint or tile route, will I have to clean the garage all the time to make it look nice?
or based on lifestyle perhaps i should pass on this venture?
Need advice.....
I really like the idea of the tile. I am sure it is much more labor intensive. Although my house is new and doesn't have any stains on the floor it is 660sq.ft., which will add to my workload.
The other thing is my wife doesn't take good care of her car, her SUV seems to dirty the garage real quickly. Also I have sons, who seem to be smashing, banging, or spilling something in the garage.
If I go the paint or tile route, will I have to clean the garage all the time to make it look nice?
or based on lifestyle perhaps i should pass on this venture?
Need advice.....
#13
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Originally Posted by SLVR04TL6PD
I have seen the Ucoatit applied on a garage floor. Make sure you pick a color you definetly like. This garage had sort of a grayish/sand colored tint to it (not my preference). One of the options that was included was the grit that you sprinkle into the epoxy, which aids traction. The downsides are that you aren't supposed to use industrial cleaners on it, if you change your oil and it spills, you've got to hurry, so it will clean up before it stains.
I think I would rather have those grids that lock into each other. I'm not sure what the name of the company is, but they are similar to the rubber grids in a hockey rink. They make all different colors and some have diamond plates designs.
-Chad![Cool](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
I think I would rather have those grids that lock into each other. I'm not sure what the name of the company is, but they are similar to the rubber grids in a hockey rink. They make all different colors and some have diamond plates designs.
-Chad
![Cool](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
#14
Team Owner
I took a look at the instructions for prepping the floor - apply acid rinse, scrub with a brush, rinse off, repeat two more times. For my 3-car garage, that would be a regal pain in the a$$. I'll just stick with cleaning it out every spring/fall (necessary because of the gremlins that are constantly moving stuff around) and pressure washing the dirt off the concrete.
Mike
Mike
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Originally Posted by svtmike
I took a look at the instructions for prepping the floor - apply acid rinse, scrub with a brush, rinse off, repeat two more times. For my 3-car garage, that would be a regal pain in the a$$. I'll just stick with cleaning it out every spring/fall (necessary because of the gremlins that are constantly moving stuff around) and pressure washing the dirt off the concrete.
Mike
Mike
#17
Senior Moderator
[QUOTE=BigBluu]
Very Cheap Tile?
I think, acutally, it is contractor grade tile and it IS inexpensive. Copter??
Since this topic doesn't specifically apply to 2004 TL, I will move it to Ramblings for better exposure.
XP
Originally Posted by copter
Did mine with 400 Sq Ft of Armstrong VCT for just under $300.00 and worth every penny... It looks great after a good wax too..
what's vct?
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
what's vct?
Very Cheap Tile?
![Dunno](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
Since this topic doesn't specifically apply to 2004 TL, I will move it to Ramblings for better exposure.
XP
#18
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I just bought this for my new house. Going to apply it this weekend (hopefully). I'll give a review when I am done.
http://corporate.ppg.com/ppg/paf/doc.../aquapon35.pdf
http://corporate.ppg.com/ppg/paf/doc.../aquapon35.pdf
![](http://corporate.ppg.com/NR/rdonlyres/e3audapa5edpbtyulm5yhjghbpf65n7c7q6drtr4ffmjuyzksvpfg46kzwdomzcfb23hg5eizcsptfubviwtmhtab3d/aquaponwb.jpg)
#19
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
I just bought this for my new house. Going to apply it this weekend (hopefully). I'll give a review when I am done.
http://corporate.ppg.com/ppg/paf/doc.../aquapon35.pdf
![](http://corporate.ppg.com/NR/rdonlyres/e3audapa5edpbtyulm5yhjghbpf65n7c7q6drtr4ffmjuyzksvpfg46kzwdomzcfb23hg5eizcsptfubviwtmhtab3d/aquaponwb.jpg)
http://corporate.ppg.com/ppg/paf/doc.../aquapon35.pdf
![](http://corporate.ppg.com/NR/rdonlyres/e3audapa5edpbtyulm5yhjghbpf65n7c7q6drtr4ffmjuyzksvpfg46kzwdomzcfb23hg5eizcsptfubviwtmhtab3d/aquaponwb.jpg)
#21
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
sweet. keep us posted on that. i need to do that to my floor, oh and how much is it a gallon?
#22
Team Owner
Sorry to bring back an old thread but I'm wondering if someone could comment on how these products are holding up?
#23
Drifting
i used the rustoleum epoxy one too. Its ok, but there are spots where it chipped up. I used regular american tradition glossy enamel concrete paint in my basement and that came out much better.
#25
![Talking](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gif)
Guys: I paint for a living. Both powder coatings and all forms of liquid coatings for ITW-Illinois Tool Works.
Part of my job is to evaluate platings/finishes for corrosion resistance on metal parts. So I have my own corrosion equipment specifically designed to dissolve metals. You know, a salt spray cabinet, a kesternich cabinet (an acid rain simulator), etcetra. These are remotely located as the fumes from these things tend to corrode everything nearby.
Salt and concrete do not get along. A few years back, we relocated my corrosion equipment as it used to be near some very expensive "screws" used in plastic extrusion. These "screws" were about 3" in diameter, up to 10 feet long, and chrome plated, and my equipment was rusting them, hence the move.
After the move onto a bare concrete industrial floor, after a few years, whenever you got within 8' of the salt spray cabinet, it felt like you were walking on miniature ball bearings. The salt was dissolving the concrete floor. A decision was made to seal the floor. But we called in the pros.
The area I relocated to was formerly a machine shop, so you can imagine we had more than a few oil stains in the concrete, such as you may encounter with your garage floor.
My father had three months previous to this had his garage floor professionally done, and the result was great and has been for over five years now.
Here is the secret: forget the acid etch. That is a band aid approach at best. The guys from Desert Dry showed up, and after brooming up the area to be coated, and I can't stress this enough, the next thing they did was to with industrial disc grinders, the same kind you would use to grind or cut steel, was to GRIND THE FLOOR DOWN TO A SNOW WHITE CONDITION.
Next, they vacuumed up the dust, and started putting the coating down.
I was assured that no amount of acid would sufficiently prep the floor. Plus, if there was ANY visual stain in the concrete that was coated, you could bet money, chalk or marbles that this is the first place that the coating will lift off.
FYI. Hope it helps. Just remember, there is the easy way to do something, then there is the right way.
Part of my job is to evaluate platings/finishes for corrosion resistance on metal parts. So I have my own corrosion equipment specifically designed to dissolve metals. You know, a salt spray cabinet, a kesternich cabinet (an acid rain simulator), etcetra. These are remotely located as the fumes from these things tend to corrode everything nearby.
Salt and concrete do not get along. A few years back, we relocated my corrosion equipment as it used to be near some very expensive "screws" used in plastic extrusion. These "screws" were about 3" in diameter, up to 10 feet long, and chrome plated, and my equipment was rusting them, hence the move.
After the move onto a bare concrete industrial floor, after a few years, whenever you got within 8' of the salt spray cabinet, it felt like you were walking on miniature ball bearings. The salt was dissolving the concrete floor. A decision was made to seal the floor. But we called in the pros.
The area I relocated to was formerly a machine shop, so you can imagine we had more than a few oil stains in the concrete, such as you may encounter with your garage floor.
My father had three months previous to this had his garage floor professionally done, and the result was great and has been for over five years now.
Here is the secret: forget the acid etch. That is a band aid approach at best. The guys from Desert Dry showed up, and after brooming up the area to be coated, and I can't stress this enough, the next thing they did was to with industrial disc grinders, the same kind you would use to grind or cut steel, was to GRIND THE FLOOR DOWN TO A SNOW WHITE CONDITION.
Next, they vacuumed up the dust, and started putting the coating down.
I was assured that no amount of acid would sufficiently prep the floor. Plus, if there was ANY visual stain in the concrete that was coated, you could bet money, chalk or marbles that this is the first place that the coating will lift off.
FYI. Hope it helps. Just remember, there is the easy way to do something, then there is the right way.
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