I want to build a 12x24 deck.

It is for a ground level walk-out basement.

I need to know more about the size of the joists and the pilings. I would like to get away with one row of pilings (orange circles) if possible.

I heard that you can cantilever a deck, so long as no more than 1/3 of the span is the over hang. However in my case, the entire overhang is a 'step', and I don;t want to feel any bounce.

The first solution that came to mind would then be to extend the pilings to 12' mark, and attach teh beam or header to that. The problem with using a beam is that I will have to excavate a trench for it if I put the joists on top. There is already an attachment board on the house (blue thingy on picture)

Does anyone know if I can do a 12' span with a piling at the 12' mark? And of so, what width board do I need?

 

ah, just found this:

http://www.homedepot.ca/wcsstore/Hom...planner_EN.pdf

it is for a 20x12 deck, page 5, so I think I can do this.

 

I did a little searching and all sites I have found strongly suggest you check your local building codes.

Also, what is there currently? Just natural ground or concrete slab? This should only matter in how you install your columns.

I haven't taken a look at your link, but a 12' span isn't that much and you shouldn't need any columns in between the house and the edge of deck.

 

I have a 20 X 20 deck. 12" on center 1x10s (or 12s). Trex decking.

Mine is attached to the house and posts at 9' and 18'. I'll see if I can dig out some construction pics tonight.

Not sure what code is, but you may feel some bounce. Why not just put in some more posts?

 

I would put the beam at 10 feet from the house, use two 2x10's bolted together for the beam and 2x10's for the joists. Use the appropriate joist hangers on either end. Most likely need the joists on 16 inch centers. I think you can cantilever up to 3 feet, but check your local codes. Key things to look for in the codes are how deep you have to dig the holes for the posts and how high can you be off the ground without needing a railing (most areas it is 30"). If you are going to be high enough that you need to build a step(s) down to the ground, then you will have to support that area as well.

 

Here you go... I just realized how much my landscaping has grown since 2004.

 

Thanks guys.

The deck is ground level (well, joist +plank height) so I am OK without railing.

Going to auger down 4' for the sonotubes.

As for posts... I was wondering if I could just attach the beam to the concrete, ie, no posts. As it is, I will have to excavate a trench just for the beam..or..could I use a header (not up on my deck terms here), instead of resting the joists on a beam, could I hang them off a face board and support that instead? I would save me having to dig out for the beam, but I wonder if it would be strong enough?

 

The header is the board along the house that you attach the joists to. You still need support out away from the house for every joist. You do not need posts, you should be able to buy the appropriate brackets to mount the beam directly into the concrete footers or pylons.

Nice deck Scrib.

 

You will likely require a permit from the city of Edmonton, since the deck is attached to the house by the ledger board (regardless of height or size). With this permit application is a requirement for you to send them drawings and an elevation view of the deck, which will then be approved/disapproved by the City engineers.

What this means: Check codes.

Or, alternatively, you can use DekBlocks (www.deckplans.com is a fantastic site for plans using these) and not attach the deck to the house, but have a "floating foundation". Since Edmonton's frost line is probably well deeper than 4' (here in Ottawa it's 5' and we don't have near the cold I remember from Edmonton), your augering to 4' isn't doing much to prevent frost heave. This is where a floating foundation comes in very useful.

 

btw, check out http://sketchup.google.com for a kickass free "CAD-like" drawing program, instead of using Paint.