Concrete vs. Blacktop Driveway
07-31-2005, 09:13 PM
#1
Old fart
Thread Starter
Concrete vs. Blacktop Driveway
Which would you prefer and why? I'm looking at two subdivisions right now. One comes with a concrete driveway and the other comes with blacktop driveway. Just trying to get an idea for maintenance, durability, resale, etc.
07-31-2005, 09:45 PM
#4
Administrator Alumnus
Even if your home comes with blacktop, you can elect for concrete and pay a bit more. And that's what we did... Got teh concrete.
Maintenance, concrete is much better. Every coupe of years, you need to reseal the blacktop. Not that big of a deal, but you have to let it dry, etc. It's a pain...
Blacktop gets f00kin' hot.
Walking over blacktop, you tend to transfer oils and dirt much easier. Especially after it's been treated or freshly laid... All those oils, etc.
Get the concrete.
Maintenance, concrete is much better. Every coupe of years, you need to reseal the blacktop. Not that big of a deal, but you have to let it dry, etc. It's a pain...
Blacktop gets f00kin' hot.
Walking over blacktop, you tend to transfer oils and dirt much easier. Especially after it's been treated or freshly laid... All those oils, etc.
Get the concrete.
07-31-2005, 10:14 PM
#5
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Concrete>>>black top
Black top does not hold up well if used repeatedly...will develop ruts, needs sealing often, does not have the cleanest edges over time...only saving grace is it can be patched semi-easily.
Concrete...as long as you don't run heavy vehicles across the corners/edges...don't use salt on it in the winter...is laid by professionals to the correct depth with rebar...is a solid investment. Definitely holds stronger value than asphalt.
If you get concrete...wait 6 months then seal it with a professional grade water-repellant(ie: NOT THOMPSONS). Shit will last 15 years if well-sealed.
Black top does not hold up well if used repeatedly...will develop ruts, needs sealing often, does not have the cleanest edges over time...only saving grace is it can be patched semi-easily.
Concrete...as long as you don't run heavy vehicles across the corners/edges...don't use salt on it in the winter...is laid by professionals to the correct depth with rebar...is a solid investment. Definitely holds stronger value than asphalt.
If you get concrete...wait 6 months then seal it with a professional grade water-repellant(ie: NOT THOMPSONS). Shit will last 15 years if well-sealed.
07-31-2005, 10:25 PM
#6
some idiot paved over my original concrete driveway; it looks terrible (mine's the only black driveway on my block) 
anyway it's being replaced in a few weeks. price is about double for concrete i think but it looks so much better.
some things to watch out for with concrete contractors:
1) do they add anything to the mix? Some concrete guys will add extra water to the mix (which comes perfectly mixed from the concrete plant). They do this to make the job easier and faster. But it causes weaker concrete than if they had used what they received. You might make the guy know you’re aware of this, and don’t want it.
2) What is the per square foot cost (should be about $6)? You can figure this by determining approximate area and dividing into price.
3) would there also be a cost ($500???) for removing and getting rid of existing driveway. Make sure this is included in estimate.
4) Get a base price for a basic job; then get additional prices for different improvements – so that you’ll be able to judge what’s worth it.
5) How much base rock will go under concrete? Will he add rebar? How will he prevent cracking? Is there any guarantee? Will he repair cracks within first year?
6) How much pitch do you have from garage to street? Is it enough?
7) How will they cure the concrete? See http://www.askthebuilder.com/NH005_-...Concrete.shtml Note that hot summer weather is not the best time to pour concrete!!
anyway it's being replaced in a few weeks. price is about double for concrete i think but it looks so much better.some things to watch out for with concrete contractors:
1) do they add anything to the mix? Some concrete guys will add extra water to the mix (which comes perfectly mixed from the concrete plant). They do this to make the job easier and faster. But it causes weaker concrete than if they had used what they received. You might make the guy know you’re aware of this, and don’t want it.
2) What is the per square foot cost (should be about $6)? You can figure this by determining approximate area and dividing into price.
3) would there also be a cost ($500???) for removing and getting rid of existing driveway. Make sure this is included in estimate.
4) Get a base price for a basic job; then get additional prices for different improvements – so that you’ll be able to judge what’s worth it.
5) How much base rock will go under concrete? Will he add rebar? How will he prevent cracking? Is there any guarantee? Will he repair cracks within first year?
6) How much pitch do you have from garage to street? Is it enough?
7) How will they cure the concrete? See http://www.askthebuilder.com/NH005_-...Concrete.shtml Note that hot summer weather is not the best time to pour concrete!!
07-31-2005, 10:29 PM
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Heh...Zero's been doing his homework. 
I've heard of the adding extra water deal...but I honestly can't see how it really makes things easier...the stuff is a PITA to mix/spread/cleanup no matter how runny it is.
I've heard of the adding extra water deal...but I honestly can't see how it really makes things easier...the stuff is a PITA to mix/spread/cleanup no matter how runny it is.
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07-31-2005, 10:30 PM
#8
oh almost forgot expansion joints; find out how many there will be..the more the better. this reduces cracking but be aware that concrete driveways will almost always eventually crack. the key is to get one that doesn't crack for a long time by using the recomendation above.
07-31-2005, 11:02 PM
#9
Old fart
Thread Starter
wow awesome info guys!!! Thanks!!
The subdivision is brand new, but there are no completely built houses up yet. There are two houses that are about 1/2 done. At first glances of those two, they have expansion joints in the basement and in the garage. None of the other subdivisions I looked at had joints in the basement & garage. So I'm beginning to think maybe this subdivision is being built by a better builder. But I'll definately talk to my realtor about this. Thanks again!
The subdivision is brand new, but there are no completely built houses up yet. There are two houses that are about 1/2 done. At first glances of those two, they have expansion joints in the basement and in the garage. None of the other subdivisions I looked at had joints in the basement & garage. So I'm beginning to think maybe this subdivision is being built by a better builder. But I'll definately talk to my realtor about this. Thanks again!
08-01-2005, 12:16 AM
#10
I agree with everybody about the concrete. My grandpa's driveway is blacktop and always needs sealed, it's pretty old so it's faded and looks like crap, and he says that it's the reason his white linoleum is stained.
08-01-2005, 09:56 AM
#12
Old fart
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Originally Posted by Dfreder2
Once again, twice the cost of concrete, but it is highly attractive, plus it lasts forever. Usually around $10 per square foot.
08-01-2005, 10:17 AM
#13
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I wanted to know the cost of a brick driveway in comparison to say concrete, I think the bricks look so much better and it seems if anything went wrong it'd be cheaper to replace a few bricks than a large chunk of concrete.
My dad has a blacktop driveway and every two years he has to reseal it (he actually just resealed it 3 days ago) and cover all the cracks. What a pain. I think the reason it's blacktop though is that it is a very hilly driveway and they would have had problems with concrete on it.
Where u from in PR TSX'R'US?
My dad has a blacktop driveway and every two years he has to reseal it (he actually just resealed it 3 days ago) and cover all the cracks. What a pain. I think the reason it's blacktop though is that it is a very hilly driveway and they would have had problems with concrete on it.
Where u from in PR TSX'R'US?
08-01-2005, 11:40 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by Dfreder2
Once again, twice the cost of concrete, but it is highly attractive, plus it lasts forever. Usually around $10 per square foot.
I think I’ll be keeping and enjoying my asphalt driveway
08-01-2005, 11:48 AM
#15
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Yes, brick is very durable...
Dads' driveway has been in for ten years now, and not one maintenance issue. Plus, the installer stopped by every few months or so over the first three years or so, some bricks would get a little "low", and he would repair as a matter of common courtesy.
He should, Dad shelved out about $13,000 for a 1,400 sq. ft. driveway. But that included a two car wide, ninety degree turn, and a sidewalk up to the front door, plus a stoop. Any turns mean that there will be a lot of brick cutting, so the cost goes up.
After all is said and done, the driveway must be contained with painted 3" steel stock, contained by about 12"-16" steel stakes.
The cost includes demolishing the old driveway and hauling it away. Plus, you just don't lay bricks where the concrete driveway was. That has to be carefully prepared with a fine gravel, levelled and compacted.
You should view a brick driveway as a capital investment, a long term solution. One time, and you're done.
Unfortunately for you young guys, the cost may be out of reach for now.
He should, Dad shelved out about $13,000 for a 1,400 sq. ft. driveway. But that included a two car wide, ninety degree turn, and a sidewalk up to the front door, plus a stoop. Any turns mean that there will be a lot of brick cutting, so the cost goes up.
After all is said and done, the driveway must be contained with painted 3" steel stock, contained by about 12"-16" steel stakes.
The cost includes demolishing the old driveway and hauling it away. Plus, you just don't lay bricks where the concrete driveway was. That has to be carefully prepared with a fine gravel, levelled and compacted.
You should view a brick driveway as a capital investment, a long term solution. One time, and you're done.
Unfortunately for you young guys, the cost may be out of reach for now.
08-01-2005, 12:26 PM
#17
I looked into pavers/etc...it was just too expensive. I'll only be spending 4 years in this house so I wanted to maximize my ROI at sale time...something tells me i wouldnt get the $ back for pavers/brick.
08-01-2005, 01:43 PM
#18
Old fart
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by BadBadNeil
Where u from in PR TSX'R'US?
But yeah, I think brick is definately too costly at this point... This will be my first home so maybe for my next house
08-01-2005, 01:47 PM
#19
Systems Overlord
Don't forget to check with your town. In most cases concrete and blacktop are taxed differently. Concrete is considered by most towns as a permanent structure while balcktop is not.
08-04-2005, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by GINge!
if you go with concrete, do NOT throw salt on it to get rid of ice in winter. It will gradually pit the surface
Trust me
Use kitty litter for traction or sand. And no product, I don't care what it says, is safe for concrete the first year after it's poured. My pitting came from concrete-safe de-icer.
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