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My wife are I are having a 4 season porch and deck with stairs built on the back of our house. We picked the contractor to build our 4 season porch in early September and have gone through materials selection. Originally they were scheduling to have the roof work completed by the end of November. However, delays on other projects have now pushed them to a tentative start time in early to mid-December. The roof work would likely happen two weeks after they start, so maybe late December or even early January.
We live in Minnesota. The normal highs at the beginning of December are 35 and 25 at the end of December. They'll be removing an existing section of the roof and adding a new gable for the porch roof. I don't really like the idea of having a crew walking on my existing shingles in those temps, let alone cutting into my roof and installing new shingles. The adhesives on ice and water barrier are said not stick very well under 40 degrees. I also expect that the new shingles might not seal until spring, causing potential blow offs or water/ice intrusion. Both things the contractor has said they will cover, but not sure it's worth the hassle.
When asked, they said they could push the start to early spring (late March / early April) if I'd prefer that. While I don't like waiting 5 more months, it seems like the prudent thing to do.
It seems like you are asking for problems with the roof doing that at those temps. This is something you want to last for years to come so I don't think I would change it over having to wait 5 extra months. I know it ruins the use of it this coming spring but I think long term it will be a better option in my opinion.
Also, congrats on finally picking a builder and getting the project underway or through the design process at least if you decide to wait. Being through that on my own I know that is a large part of the process in itself.
Last edited by CCColtsicehockey; 10-25-2023 at 02:14 PM.
It seems like you are asking for problems with the roof doing that at those temps. This is something you want to last for years to come so I don't think I would change it over having to wait 5 extra months. I know it ruins the use of it this coming spring but I think long term it will be a better option in my opinion.
Also, congrats on finally picking a builder and getting the project underway or through the design process at least if you decide to wait. Being through that on my own I know that is a large part of the process in itself.
Thanks! It is exciting to finally commit after talking about for years now. It should be a good, hopefully year round, space that provides a nice spot to relax.
I'm still trying to find out if they'll remove the existing sheathing under the new porch roof or not. While I still have concerns about the shingles, I would at least feel better about not having a gaping hole in the roof while night time temps average 7 degrees. Some of the videos I've watched suggest the sheathing isn't always removed.
I'd just do it. Adhesives used for cold temp environments like MN don't cure by heat, they cure by chemical reaction. The shingles are asphalt and aren't impacted by cold temps like metal or clay.
I live in a new development and they are putting roofs on year round, it's not really a challenge for them to do as long as they know what they're doing and use the right stuff.
If they don't use the right stuff in the summer, you'll still have issues come winter.
About 5 weeks ago, the helical piers were install. They wanted to get them in before the ground froze. Each pier starts out at 7 feet long. There's an inline pressure gauge on the hydraulic head that screws the pier into the ground. Depending on local code and the intended load bearing on the pier, a certain rotational pressure has to be achieved. They document that number and send it into the city inspector for approval before any construction can begin.
If they don't reach that pressure with the first 7 feet, then they'll add another 7' section and go deeper. I think he said that they can go down 21'.
Here are the piers being installed.
Measured out each of the 7 that needed to be drilled.
They setup 90 degrees to each other to watch the angle/tilt, and adjust as needed. They said they can be up to 7 degrees off in any direction, and they just eyeballed it. Seems like clamping a small level to the pole would achieve better results.
Pier fully screwed in.
Part of the box that will join the pier to the post.
That is cool. Do they use those to get down below the frost line easier as apposed to setting concrete?
He said they've had much better success with the piers not heaving from frost when compared to concrete footings. They're also much easier and quicker to install.
Frost depth in the southern half of MN can get to a little more than 3 feet, although we haven't seen that in close to 15 years. So these go down considerably deeper, which I assume attributes to their success.
So what did you decide? Go ahead with the build or waiting?
Spent a few days thinking about it and decided to move forward now. Sam wasn't wrong when he said that homes are roofed all winter long here, and even though there's risk involved, we decided we'd rather not wait.
Seeing how the weather has been now, I'm glad we didn't wait. I would have kicked myself not doing it and then having all these 40+ degree days in mid-December. It's 51 and sunny here today.
That is cool. Do they use those to get down below the frost line easier as apposed to setting concrete?
They used these for my deck here too. Like Gryphon said, they don't heave with seasonal changes because they go down a lot further and are skinnier in the frost zone.
Originally Posted by Gryphon
Spent a few days thinking about it and decided to move forward now. Sam wasn't wrong when he said that homes are roofed all winter long here, and even though there's risk involved, we decided we'd rather not wait.
Seeing how the weather has been now, I'm glad we didn't wait. I would have kicked myself not doing it and then having all these 40+ degree days in mid-December. It's 51 and sunny here today.
Spent a few days thinking about it and decided to move forward now. Sam wasn't wrong when he said that homes are roofed all winter long here, and even though there's risk involved, we decided we'd rather not wait.
Seeing how the weather has been now, I'm glad we didn't wait. I would have kicked myself not doing it and then having all these 40+ degree days in mid-December. It's 51 and sunny here today.
They're on track to have it dried-in by the 22nd.
I was going to mention the same as Sam about the roofing year round in this area. I'm in SE WI so not much different weather than you guys. I would agree, this mid 40s in December is nice but I am ready for some cold to go ice fishing.
Tear off the existing deck and install new ledger boards.
Over the weekend, we had some rain that turned to snow for a half an inch. Great timing for the first day.
Old deck didn't need much to take it down. Strong sneeze had it jiggling.
The previous ledger board was one height and 20 feet long. The deck was a step down from the house. The new ledger was raised a little to make the porch floor the same height as the inside of the house. We're going to leave the slider door in for now, but may decide to remove it in the future. If we do, thought an at-level floor would be best.
Code here says the deck has to be a step down, so left the previous ledger height alone for the deck and extended it 2 more feet.
They weren't thrilled to learn that the siding was steel.
Isn't the step down though normally done to help with snow buildup and rain? I know it was suggested that I do a 4in step for my deck on my garage build to prevent any issues of water since we don't really get snow. Or is this just a cop out by builders to make life easier than lining things up?
Isn't the step down though normally done to help with snow buildup and rain? I know it was suggested that I do a 4in step for my deck on my garage build to prevent any issues of water since we don't really get snow. Or is this just a cop out by builders to make life easier than lining things up?
City code does say it has to be step down from a living area, which the 4-season qualifies as. I don't know if the same would be true for a 3-season without the HVAC runs.
It does have the added benefit of them not having to move the ledger on that side, but given it's only 8 feet, and two of those feet are a new extension, I don't think they would have cared too much about cutting it lower.
Get some of the posts in and perimeter framing done.
Some of the post bottoms are actually sitting above grade. My brain has to do a little work to remember that they don't need to be sunk below ground to be secure. It'll be great for using a string trimmer, but I'm sure I'll look at them skeptically for a long time.
Considering only 1.5" beam on post contact is required, I guess this notched post is OK.
City code does say it has to be step down from a living area, which the 4-season qualifies as. I don't know if the same would be true for a 3-season without the HVAC runs.
It does have the added benefit of them not having to move the ledger on that side, but given it's only 8 feet, and two of those feet are a new extension, I don't think they would have cared too much about cutting it lower.
That makes sense. I didn't account for it being a 4 season room. Looks like they are moving along quickly.
I know they will be hidden but I would certainly want some of those roof trusses replaced do to how bad some of those pieces are. There is a lot less contact area for the roof ply on a couple of those. I know the lumber yard here replaced several pieces that looked like that for my builder free of charge when they found them in the wood piles.
I know they will be hidden but I would certainly want some of those roof trusses replaced do to how bad some of those pieces are. There is a lot less contact area for the roof ply on a couple of those. I know the lumber yard here replaced several pieces that looked like that for my builder free of charge when they found them in the wood piles.
We talked about it. There were 4 trusses like that. While all still had 1" of edge available, they scabbed boards to each of them, which was needed anyway because the overhangs were too short to line up correctly with the existing roof.
If I wanted them to be replaced, it would have set them back a few weeks. The roofers are here tomorrow, and while the weather is still relatively warm for shingling, and with the four days a rain in the forecast at the end of week, it made sense to not delay.
The openings in the walls are actual window size, 48" x 84". This might be better called called a sunroom, maybe. I'm very concerned about temp control in this thing. I have a feeling it's going to be hard to warm in the winter and keep cool in the summer.
We talked about it. There were 4 trusses like that. While all still had 1" of edge available, they scabbed boards to each of them, which was needed anyway because the overhangs were too short to line up correctly with the existing roof.
If I wanted them to be replaced, it would have set them back a few weeks. The roofers are here tomorrow, and while the weather is still relatively warm for shingling, and with the four days a rain in the forecast at the end of week, it made sense to not delay.
That makes sense. Definitely nice to get the roof on before the rain comes.
Roof truss installation. The day was cut short due to rain.
In order to get the roof trusses installed, they had to remove the existing roof overhang. The risk here was that we were expecting .5" of rain over the next 24 hours. The solution was a temporary install of a piece of aluminum under the shingles and down the wall to cover the open hole to the attic. This ended up not being good enough.
While the water was kept out of the attic, with no drip edge, it would soon be collected in the trim/channel of the sliding door.
Later that night, as the rain got heavier, water started coming in at the top of the door.
I had an old roll of aluminum that I cut sections off and tucked up under the temp piece they installed. That did keep the water out and pushed it away from the house. Fortunately when the 40mph winds came, it didn't blow off, just made a lot of noise all night.
When they are done, rake it, top dress, over seed, and cover before the snow flies. Come spring, once the temps warm, the seed will come in before your first cut!
When they are done, rake it, top dress, over seed, and cover before the snow flies. Come spring, once the temps warm, the seed will come in before your first cut!
Thanks! Hoping it doesn't snow before they're done. I also have river rock around the parameter of the house. They've kicked rocks everywhere. My mower blade is potentially doomed come spring.
Whatcha doing for insulation under the floor? Anything?
We have a screened in porch on the back of our house and it's really a 3 season room because we went with non-glass (flexible clear plastic of some kind) windows, It gets cold fast with no insulation in the floor and no heating.
Whatcha doing for insulation under the floor? Anything?
We have a screened in porch on the back of our house and it's really a 3 season room because we went with non-glass (flexible clear plastic of some kind) windows, It gets cold fast with no insulation in the floor and no heating.
Closed cell spray foam, minimum of 5 inches, and fully filling the joist spaces that contain the HVAC runs. They want a minimum of R-35 in the floor. The ceiling will be blown. Sadly, I think the windows will be our biggest temp control problem. Hoping it won't be too bad.
There are 3 HVAC runs, one in the middle of each exterior wall, and one cold air return in the floor on the house wall.
Had to take apart the golf simulator for the HVAC to get installed. Kinda glad at this point that the basement isn't finished yet. This would have been a much bigger deal. There are 3 runs, one to the center of each outside wall, and one cold air return in the floor by the house wall. I was initially scratching my head regarding cutting holes in the ledger, but inspector says it's normal and fine.
The windows were exciting to see in, really starting to feel like a room now.
Need some help deciding post wrap color. Made the images below with both blacked out windows and light blue windows, in case those colors skewed perspective.
Dark Brown - Roughly same color of the shingles
Dark Grey - Doesn't match any other colors, but sets off the lighter grey that will wrap the beams
Black
Light Grey - Same color as the beam wrap
Light Brown - Same color as the siding of the porch
White - Concerned with how much dirt these may show over time
10-25-2023, 01:11 PM
