SH-AWD diff fluid...
04-21-2011, 08:23 AM
#1
SH-AWD diff fluid...
so i am comming up on 10k miles, and havent seen a6 or b6 calling for a diff fluid change....
who has or had theirs changed, and at what miliage...the manual says at 7500 then every 15k miles after that...
we need a diy with pic...anyone?
who has or had theirs changed, and at what miliage...the manual says at 7500 then every 15k miles after that...
we need a diy with pic...anyone?
04-21-2011, 10:09 AM
#4
2010 TL AWD 6MT: New King
My first B16 (rear diff change) showed up at around 15,000 miles.
Stealership wanted $200 just for the rear diff.
I had it changed at a local garage I trusted. Had oil change, tire rotation, and rear diff for $99 (plus the so-called "inspection").
Stealership wanted $200 just for the rear diff.
I had it changed at a local garage I trusted. Had oil change, tire rotation, and rear diff for $99 (plus the so-called "inspection").
04-21-2011, 10:36 AM
#5
my dealer, goodson acura dfw, wanted 130 plus tax to do just the diff....i told her for that price i would be doing it myself...just waiting for someone to post up a diy, or atlest some pic of which bolts are drain and which are fill, i took a quick peak under, and can see what looks like one of them, but will wait for someone who has done it to chime in....
plan on doing it at 10k, with my next oil change...next week sometime
word
plan on doing it at 10k, with my next oil change...next week sometime
word
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Strosek (07-05-2013)
04-22-2011, 01:37 PM
#7
Seems Acura changed the Differential Fluid to be used in 2011+ models. The 2011 cars now use DPSF fluid instead of the ATF-Z1 rear differential fluid. I saw this in a Service Bulletin and it mentions that the differential case in 2011+ models are marked DPSF. Seems this was a running change and some early 2011 production TL's are still marked for the ATF-Z1 fluid, but dealers are advised to use the DPSF fluid (caramel in color vs pink for the ATF-Z1) on 2011+ models. Does anyone know what the pros/cons are to using DPSF over ATF-Z1? Will the new fluid work with the 2009-2010 TL's?
Last edited by lji; 04-22-2011 at 01:41 PM.
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04-22-2011, 01:47 PM
#8
Instructor
Seems Acura changed the Differential Fluid to be used in 2011+ models. The 2011 cars now use DPSF fluid instead of the ATF-Z1 rear differential fluid. I saw this in a Service Bulletin and it mentions that the differential case in 2011+ models are marked DPSF. Seems this was a running change and some early 2011 production TL's are still marked for the ATF-Z1 fluid, but dealers are advised to use the DPSF fluid (caramel in color vs pink for the ATF-Z1) on 2011+ models. Does anyone know what the pros/cons are to using DPSF over ATF-Z1? Will the new fluid work with the 2009-2010 TL's?
04-23-2011, 08:36 AM
#10
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The following text is directly from the October 2010 Acura Service News Bulletin:
New All-Wheel Drive Fluid
(DPSF) for SH-AWD
Acura parts stock has a new SH-AWD rear differential fluid available. It’’s Acura All-Wheel Drive Fluid (DPSF), and it replaces ATF-Z1. It’’s been specifically formulated to withstand the extreme conditions in the AWD differential, offering better protection and greater longevity.
DPSF is the factory fill for all ’’11 Acura models with SH-AWD, as well as some ’’10 models, and should be used in ’’10 and earlier models that call for ATF-Z1 or DPSF. However, ’’01-06 MDXs will still use VTM-4 differential fluid.
Models that are factory-filled with DPSF have DPSF stamped on the rear differential assembly. The fluid is also clear instead of pink. If you need to top off the diff fluid and DPSF isn’’t available, go ahead and use ATF-Z1; it’’s OK in a pinch.
DPSF is available in 1-quart bottles (P/N08200-9007A).
New All-Wheel Drive Fluid
(DPSF) for SH-AWD
Acura parts stock has a new SH-AWD rear differential fluid available. It’’s Acura All-Wheel Drive Fluid (DPSF), and it replaces ATF-Z1. It’’s been specifically formulated to withstand the extreme conditions in the AWD differential, offering better protection and greater longevity.
DPSF is the factory fill for all ’’11 Acura models with SH-AWD, as well as some ’’10 models, and should be used in ’’10 and earlier models that call for ATF-Z1 or DPSF. However, ’’01-06 MDXs will still use VTM-4 differential fluid.
Models that are factory-filled with DPSF have DPSF stamped on the rear differential assembly. The fluid is also clear instead of pink. If you need to top off the diff fluid and DPSF isn’’t available, go ahead and use ATF-Z1; it’’s OK in a pinch.
DPSF is available in 1-quart bottles (P/N08200-9007A).
04-23-2011, 08:41 AM
#11
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From the February 2011 Acura Service News Bulletin, there is a chart that states:
DPSF is acceptable for 2009 to present TL SHAWD. In fact, it is acceptable for all Acura SHAWDs except for 2001-2006 MDXs which still need VTM-4.
DPSF is acceptable for 2009 to present TL SHAWD. In fact, it is acceptable for all Acura SHAWDs except for 2001-2006 MDXs which still need VTM-4.
09-28-2011, 08:40 AM
#17
Drifting
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Yeah, like someone else said...a full DIY probably isn't necessary. Just post some pics of where to drain and fill.
I'm going to be due soon as well and I'd like to knock it out myself...and bond with my car at the same time
I'm going to be due soon as well and I'd like to knock it out myself...and bond with my car at the same time
09-29-2011, 10:04 PM
#18
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This is what worked for me. As always, safety first, and use common sense! I am not responsible if it doesn't work out for you.
Now, with that bs out of the way, on to the pics!
1.) Jack up the rear of the car at the jacking point.
2.) Lower onto jack stand points.
3.) After making sure the car is secure on the jack stands, crawl under and locate the fill (top) and drain (bottom) plugs on the rear differential. You will see 'ATF' stamped below the fill plug.
4.) I strongly recommend loosening the fill plug first and the drain plug second. You might need a breaker bar. Although I didn't use one, the bolts on my car seemed like they were torqued really tight. I had to lay perpendicular to the car directly under the diff to get the best leverage.
Fill Hole
Drain Hole
5.) Grab your drain pan, then take out the drain bolt and let the fluid drain. I guess if you are really anal, you should lower the car back on the ground to get all the oil out. I didn't want to screw with it since it was mid July and 100deg in my garage. Plus, I'm too lazy.
6.) Grab a new drain crush washer (Honda 90471-PX4-000) and tighten to 33lb ft. Of course, Honda had to make the drain and fill washers different sizes. I've never seen a car use so many different sized crush washers. I went to my local Honda dealer and gave him the part numbers, at which point he just gave me two bags free! Give it a shot. Yours may too.
7.) Add 2.65qts of auto trans fluid. You will need a bottle pump to pump the fluid into the diff. I ordered mine from Amsoil with the fluid since I was too lazy to make an extra trip to the store. Stick the tubing into the fill (top) hole and start pumping away. On your 3rd bottle, just keep pumping until fluid comes out of the fill hole. Reinstall the fill plug with a new crush washer (Honda 94109-20000) . Torque to 33 ft lbs.
NOTE...the torque settings are from Amsoil. They didn't list the rear diff settings, so I used values they gave for the front.
Lower the car, take her for a spin and check for leaks!
It is a very simple and straight forward job. Good luck!
Gary
Now, with that bs out of the way, on to the pics!
1.) Jack up the rear of the car at the jacking point.
2.) Lower onto jack stand points.
3.) After making sure the car is secure on the jack stands, crawl under and locate the fill (top) and drain (bottom) plugs on the rear differential. You will see 'ATF' stamped below the fill plug.
4.) I strongly recommend loosening the fill plug first and the drain plug second. You might need a breaker bar. Although I didn't use one, the bolts on my car seemed like they were torqued really tight. I had to lay perpendicular to the car directly under the diff to get the best leverage.
Fill Hole
Drain Hole
5.) Grab your drain pan, then take out the drain bolt and let the fluid drain. I guess if you are really anal, you should lower the car back on the ground to get all the oil out. I didn't want to screw with it since it was mid July and 100deg in my garage. Plus, I'm too lazy.
6.) Grab a new drain crush washer (Honda 90471-PX4-000) and tighten to 33lb ft. Of course, Honda had to make the drain and fill washers different sizes. I've never seen a car use so many different sized crush washers. I went to my local Honda dealer and gave him the part numbers, at which point he just gave me two bags free! Give it a shot. Yours may too.
7.) Add 2.65qts of auto trans fluid. You will need a bottle pump to pump the fluid into the diff. I ordered mine from Amsoil with the fluid since I was too lazy to make an extra trip to the store. Stick the tubing into the fill (top) hole and start pumping away. On your 3rd bottle, just keep pumping until fluid comes out of the fill hole. Reinstall the fill plug with a new crush washer (Honda 94109-20000) . Torque to 33 ft lbs.
NOTE...the torque settings are from Amsoil. They didn't list the rear diff settings, so I used values they gave for the front.
Lower the car, take her for a spin and check for leaks!
It is a very simple and straight forward job. Good luck!
Gary
Last edited by almostatlowner; 09-29-2011 at 10:10 PM.
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09-30-2011, 08:55 AM
#20
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Gary, you are THE man! Thank you so much for taking the time to post that. I will be doing my first one soon and after that will never have to look at this again, but having guidance to get me through that first run is essential.
I, and I'm sure many other members, really appreciate this!
Now if we can just get this moved into that new DIY subforum I'm wanting
I, and I'm sure many other members, really appreciate this!
Now if we can just get this moved into that new DIY subforum I'm wanting
09-30-2011, 07:50 PM
#23
Cruisin'
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Gary, you are THE man! Thank you so much for taking the time to post that. I will be doing my first one soon and after that will never have to look at this again, but having guidance to get me through that first run is essential.
I, and I'm sure many other members, really appreciate this!
Now if we can just get this moved into that new DIY subforum I'm wanting
I, and I'm sure many other members, really appreciate this!
Now if we can just get this moved into that new DIY subforum I'm wanting
Amsoil is one of the most $ you can buy. It was $11.50/qt + shipping, and the pump was ~$11. You can definitely find cheaper alternatives at your local auto parts/Walmart stores. Hmmm, I'd guess the process would take about 40min or so? It's hard to say because I always take my time, especially when jacking the car up (although I think the tires were still touching the ground). Plus, I had done my 2nd oil change and rotated the tires, so by the time I got to the rear diff, I was getting a bit winded. The first change is always the longest since you're being extra careful and double checking yourself on everything.
10-05-2011, 01:57 PM
#26
Mine was done at 1509 miles w/ balance and rotate wheels. Also purchased 2 screws for the air filter cover. Total cost was $157.00. They told me it needed to be done at 15000 and then every 30000 after that.
10-11-2011, 09:49 AM
#27
just knocked this out myself....took just under 3 qts of dpsf....
btw, whoever said dpsf was clear or carmel in color is either color blind, or i am...
its not quite as red as the atf z1, or any atf for that matter, but it is still pink in color...
btw, whoever said dpsf was clear or carmel in color is either color blind, or i am...
its not quite as red as the atf z1, or any atf for that matter, but it is still pink in color...
10-12-2011, 12:34 PM
#28
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Atleast that's what's on their site right now.
10-14-2011, 11:35 AM
#34
See:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/floor-jack-lifting-points-703995/
reply # 18
The model shown might not be the same as yours, but the jack points are the same.
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/floor-jack-lifting-points-703995/
reply # 18
The model shown might not be the same as yours, but the jack points are the same.
04-11-2012, 05:53 PM
#36
Advanced
I also noticed that Amsoil listed that they recommend dealer fluid only for the rear Shawd fluid and not Amsoil products....
Did you notice any changes it the way the car drove?
I plan on using Amsoil in the entire car exept the rear diff because if they had something that would work believe me it would be listed.
Did you notice any changes it the way the car drove?
I plan on using Amsoil in the entire car exept the rear diff because if they had something that would work believe me it would be listed.
04-12-2012, 01:31 PM
#38
Love Guru
I might be wrong but I think I saw the manual asks for the diff oil change at 15k miles, 7500 will be a bit too early.
04-13-2012, 09:50 AM
#39
Mine came on around 14,7xx miles. MID shows B16 service. Took it to the local Honda dealer as the Acura dealer wanted $$$. Quick question for those that have done the B16 service in 09 and 10 TL's, which fluid was used? ATF-Z1 or DPSF??
04-13-2012, 01:47 PM
#40
Advanced
Thanks,