CV axle replacement anyone?

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Old 07-09-2014, 12:35 AM
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CV axle replacement anyone?

Was replacing passenger side CV axle cuz of a defected boot today. What a PITA it was to remove the lower ball joint and pull the drive shaft out from the half shaft. Anyone have input on easy tips or anything for next? I searched forums but don't think no one with a 4G tl has had to replace those yet...
Old 07-09-2014, 10:11 AM
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Check out this clip on an accord. He uses a ratchet handle between the knuckle and lower arm. As the weight of the suspension drops the knuckle it applies force directly through the ratchet and pops the joint.


Any tool that fits in there will work, a box wrench, prybar etc. keep the ball joint's nut on loosely to prevent it from flying apart and possibly damaging a brake hose or sensor wire. Works like a charm!
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Old 07-09-2014, 11:43 AM
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Thanks for posting.
There is a special tool for that.
It looks like a fork with very sharp points.
But, the good news is, you don't have to do that, maybe.
There are aftermarket boots that come "split" so that you can put them over the joint without removing the axle. The replacement boot is like a clamshell (sort of) and it has a clamp at each end. You cut the old boot off to remove it. We had that job done on my wife's Camry. Seems to be a common problem on Camry judging from our experience; I was hoping the Acura would not suffer that issue.
Not sure if the split replacement boot is available for all models.
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:08 AM
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Thanks guys. After two 4 hour evenings spent I got the axle changed. Huge pain to get the ball joint out. I tried every trick possible. Ended up whacking the side of the lower suspension piece where the ball joint seats and getting it out that way. The. The axle was also a pain to pry out. Used two pry bars to pop it out, not to easy while under the car on your driveway but it's doable!
Old 07-10-2014, 12:14 PM
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I'm impressed that you could do this job on a driveway!
Be sure that the axle seats properly - all the way in the transaxle - so that it doesn't leak. It's possible to get it all back together but the axle is not really all the way in. Congrats.
Old 07-11-2014, 01:00 AM
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Thanks lol. Yeah thats why it took 2 evenings. I had the alignment shop take a peek at the shaft and make sure it was seated right. They said it looked fine
Old 03-05-2020, 03:24 PM
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bump

Will be replacing both front axles soon, 2010 SHAWD AT, do I need to drain the transmission fluid?
Old 03-08-2020, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jutes85
bump

Will be replacing both front axles soon, 2010 SHAWD AT, do I need to drain the transmission fluid?
I haven't replaced the axles on the TL, but I have done it on a Civic. I did not drain the transmission fluid, in fact barely any fluid came out when I popped the cv axle out. You should still check your transmission fluid levels after finishing and refil as needed.
Old 03-09-2020, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by VanyDotK
I haven't replaced the axles on the TL, but I have done it on a Civic. I did not drain the transmission fluid, in fact barely any fluid came out when I popped the cv axle out. You should still check your transmission fluid levels after finishing and refil as needed.
Sucks cause I just changed the fluid less than 100miles ago. I guess I'll just have a large clean tray ready and see what happens. FSM says to drain fluid however that could just be a tactic by Acura to charge customers more on maintenance.
Old 03-09-2020, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jutes85
Sucks cause I just changed the fluid less than 100miles ago. I guess I'll just have a large clean tray ready and see what happens. FSM says to drain fluid however that could just be a tactic by Acura to charge customers more on maintenance.
If you only did 1 drain and fill, it might actually be a good idea to do another drain and fill since a lot of people perform 3x3 drain and fills with their ATF.
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