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So is this the part that everyone says can't be replaced by Acura, so you have to buy a whole new turbo? Is it really a direct fit to the Acura Turbo. I don't have the problem of the square nut getting deformed yet, but everything I read here says that is the problem with the Turbos. 2011 RDX with 56k miles, so still breaking her in.
Just FYI - I was in a hurry on Christmas Eve and the turbo was in full effect. My wife's 2007 RDX threw code P2263 and it went away after a few days. I'm starting to wonder if I should look into buying a replacement eye bolt or a whole new actuator?
wusty23jdBought an 07 RDX about four months ago with 93K miles on it. Can't answer you on the actuator, but after reading some on the forum about potential problems, found this and decided to buy one to keep on hand just in case. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Grade-8-Acu...72.m2749.l2649
I did as you suggested and the below pictures are what I found. Although I can't really see a cast shadow or gap, the metal does seem to have eroded away into an oblong shape. Would you all agree?
In the following video you can see that the original VGT Actuator is out-of-round because there is cast shadow. Mine doesn't have a shadow, but it definitely looks oblong I think.
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Hey guys, new here as I just recently bought a 2011 RDX for my daughter and am having the P2263 issue. I bought the actuator rather just the eyebolt but can only find threads for replacing that. Could someone point me in the right direction on how to remove the entire assembly? It looks like it's attached by some bolts but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything before I dive in. Also, are there any other parts I should replace while I have her opened up?
Thanks and hope everyone has a good rest of the weekend.
Did you watch the video? I thought it was pretty self explanatory.
the video showed how to do it without removing everything, it's tricky.
Ya, I watched the video. Did you read my post? I thought it was pretty self explanatory as I requested replacing the entire assembly, which is what this thread is about, not just the eyebolt.
Check the DIY section - if someone has documented a full removal, it should be there. That said, the bolt is your most likely culprit and can be done much quicker and easier. You could potentially save a lot of time and trouble by replacing just that, and seeing if the code goes away first before committing to the larger job.
Got the IC and Heatshield off for easier viewing and space to work. It does look like the eyebolt is deformed. However, I noticed that the Flow Control Actuator rod moves very easily and doesn't return to full retracted position compared to the new actuator rod which takes quite a bit of effort to move and retracts. Does this sound like the actuator is also in need of replacement? It does to me but wanted to check with the forum. Thanks!
When I replaced my bolt, the arm (when still connected to the bolt), did require some effort to move and also returned to its original position. But the arm is controlled by an electric solenoid, so I can't say that it should always be like that. If it were me, I'd swap the bolt out since you can see that it is worn and are able to do that now without removing anything else, and see how the car behaves. Ideally you'll have better low-end response, no impact to top-end power, and no trouble codes. If the bolt is not adjusted correctly, you'll likely suffer one of the two power scenarios, and possibly continue to throw the P2263 code.
If you remove and replace the full actuator assembly please take pictures and videos for the community. Thanks in advanced!
I think I could've done it myself, but ended up taking it to a local mechanic that had serviced RDX turbos. They were able to replace the actuator that I bought from the top rather than removing the entire turbo. Picked it up today and my daughter has already put some hard miles on it...lol. No engine code so far and she says it drives so much smoother and the the rattle is gone. I'm going to try and post a video of the old actuator. Note how easy it is to move the rod. The Mitsubishi replacement took great effort to move and always went back to 0. Also, the eyebolt doesn't look to wore out but it was loose.
Dennis Hall Auto in Knoxville TN replaced the actuator (supplied), spark plugs (supplied), replaced transmission fluid and an oil change (oil and filter supplied) for $610. I am pleased with their work and Russell was extremely pleasant to work with. Overall, I'm celebrating a small win in 2020. Cheers!
Can't post vid from phone. Will try another way in a few.
I think I could've done it myself, but ended up taking it to a local mechanic that had serviced RDX turbos. They were able to replace the actuator that I bought from the top rather than removing the entire turbo. Picked it up today and my daughter has already put some hard miles on it...lol. No engine code so far and she says it drives so much smoother and the the rattle is gone. I'm going to try and post a video of the old actuator. Note how easy it is to move the rod. The Mitsubishi replacement took great effort to move and always went back to 0. Also, the eyebolt doesn't look to wore out but it was loose.
Dennis Hall Auto in Knoxville TN replaced the actuator (supplied), spark plugs (supplied), replaced transmission fluid and an oil change (oil and filter supplied) for $610. I am pleased with their work and Russell was extremely pleasant to work with. Overall, I'm celebrating a small win in 2020. Cheers!
Can't post vid from phone. Will try another way in a few.
Sorry for the multiple posts but since I'm a forum noob I don't have edit privileges yet and couldn't delete. Also, I needed to trim and compress my video as it was 20 secs in 4kHDR at 24mb...lol Edit (using new edit button that showed u): Looks like new posts can be edited/deleted, not quick reply?
Shop said this method of repair shaved off over half the time it would've taken to pull the entire turbo which was a significant savings in labor cost. If it had to be pulled, I think I would've also had them replace the other actuator (horizontal) as well which is readily available. Diagnostically, there was nothing else wrong with the turbo, so ~$500 for labor and $225 for the part is way better than replacing the entire turbo which was the only solution offered by the Acura dealership.
Good luck to all you experiencing this issue and I hope the thread helps.
Last edited by twodogs257; 05-16-2020 at 05:00 AM.
I know post are few years ago, BUT I’M just coming across them now as now having problem! Stealership quoted over $9.5k for turbo. I was able to put new rod end bolt after removing heat shield not too rough. But retaining clip was hell, took me a couple of days. Code cleared, and came back few weeks later. To replace actuator, local mechanic quoted 1000—maybe cuz I’m a gurl. Anyway, this is only video I found to replace actuator. It’s in Spanish, but basically he had to remove valve cover to get to bolts at bottom of actuator. Double check length of rod end of new with removed actuator before installing new one. Make sure not loose.
I know post are few years ago, BUT I’M just coming across them now as now having problem! Stealership quoted over $9.5k for turbo. I was able to put new rod end bolt after removing heat shield not too rough. But retaining clip was hell, took me a couple of days. Code cleared, and came back few weeks later. To replace actuator, local mechanic quoted 1000—maybe cuz I’m a gurl. Anyway, this is only video I found to replace actuator. It’s in Spanish, but basically he had to remove valve cover to get to bolts at bottom of actuator. Double check length of rod end of new with removed actuator before installing new one. Make sure not loose.
Because the code came back a few weeks later I don't think the problem is the actuator and this can be confirmed by testing with a hand vacuum pump or some low pressure compressed air. It's likely the eyebolt pin on the linkage arm that's worn too. If the pin is worn enough the code will come back. You can check if there's still a visible gap between the eyebolt and pin, see photo.
To test the actuator, you'll have to remove the intercooler to access the hose that goes to the top of actuator. Remove hose and test with vacuum or low pressure compress air. You just want to see if the diaphragm is leaking or not. The compressed air will push the arm downward if all is okay. Because of the amount of work to replace the actuator it's best to test it first and see if it really is the problem.
See post #14, good eyebolt/pin wear illustration by ocgltd. A badly worn pin will create enough play to get the p2263 code.
If your car is running well and the boost seems okay, there's a software workaround to eliminate getting the code. See post #1, P2263 software workaround described by desbiensl, more economical alternative to Hondata
One reason you may have had problems getting retaining clip back on is due to the wear of the pin, see photo, not to mention the lack of working room. The wear closes the clip groove and it's at the bottom of the pin so the clip has be installed with the opening at the top of the pin downward.
The pin can be replaced with the turbo in the car but it's not a simple DIY job, if you're interested I can provide more details.
Thank YOU! I did check for vacuum leaks, none and boost pressure 27.5. If not for the CEL the car drives great! I have a friend I’ll pass info about eyebolt pin on the linkage arm like you suggested. Thanks again!
03-12-2019, 01:23 PM
