CLMike98

Hi I am new here looking help. I got a 98 CL 2.3L Automatic, I bought it wrecked fixed it up. First thing i noticed is idle get rought after it warms up and dash shakes. (have replaced rotor button,cap,plugs,wires,coldair filter, PVC, oil and filter ect.) I checked Idle Air Control Valve and all vacume lines i could find but looked ok. No warning lights are on on my dash, It still shakes when it gets warm only on idle (500-750rpm)

After driving a few miles it started a BIGGER problem when you stop the car it takes one second after dead stop before tranny downshifts to first (atleast thats what it feels like) and it jerks the whole car. But shifts perfect when accerating. I tried to jump the TCM under the glovebox but the D4 light didn't blink only the ABS light. I hope its just a silonoid or something Someone said the idle may be linked to the jerk (Torkconverter maybe) Any Ideas Fellow CL owners? HELLLP PLEESE

CLMike98

No idea's yet hu... Well I'll go now i'll check back later on any help would be killa. Cause i hate to think i need a new tranny i got way too much in this thing.... Also do you check the tranny fluid cold or hot and running or not running i read alot of diffrent opinons? Thanks , Mike

DaInFaMMuS1

The auto trannies are known for failing. Yours sounds like it's gonna go soon.

bigT

owners manual says to check it hot with the car turned off.

Germ

but isnt that just the 3.0 1999 model?

DaInFaMMuS1

Nope. All autos. 3.0's moreso cuz the tranny is dealing with more power

MoSp33d

i feel ur pain Mike. i bought my CL with a toast tranny =( but than i got it fixed because of the warranty...and then again at 138000 it died on me....what i had noticed when it jerks at the stop is that its still on gear two and then after 2 sec. BOOM shakes and drops the gear...its MOST def. ur torque converter. take it to an Acura dealer or better yet take it to AAMCO. pricey but it will help u in the long run.

MoSp33d

also another thing....no to put u thru more stress...eventually ur tranny is gona slip or jerk when accerlating...ESP goin from stop to next gear...RPM will shoot up and go...sucks but thats how these trannys were made...=(

swiftt5389

:erd: mine did hte same thing....twice

Tehvine

Just warm up your car then give your tranny fluid a sniff. If it smells like shit, it's about to take one. If it's not nice and red, then yeah... probably about to take a shit.

MoSp33d

yeah check the color of the fluid and the smell...if it smells like starbucks coffee...its time to change the ATF...if u dont trust doin that then ur convertor will burn into toast...=(

Tehvine

Hopefully within the next few weeks I will be putting up a DIY of auto tranny replacement for my accord... which is damn near the same as the CL. I let the accord tranny burn because I wanted an excuse to buy another car -- I love my CL more haha.

MoSp33d

most def. my cousin drives a 2000 honda accord and i drive it at times when he chills with me...but once i drive my CL...its like wow...so much better although they r identical

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

tranny =

CLMike98

Yea well that seems to be what I am hearing (i'v had two honda 2.7L V6's accords first one had Darm 220K never had any problems with them) first day off this week I am going to AAMCO or Cotman to get a diagnostic. I looked up the filter and it is internal not in the pan so thats out of the question. I always heard changing fluid and then the loss of metalic in the fluid will make tranny go out faster. At least it has a drain plug though, I may try it but i had alot of (Bad Idea) opinons about that. You guy's had any luck changing fluid's?

CLMike98

P.S Heck this car barley has 100K What the... Acura

MoSp33d

guys at AAMCO told me to come back to them after 10,000 miles...which basically is when to get a flush done to ur tranny...its good to get it...because u dont want metal piece lubricating thru ur tranny...that is a big NO NO

DoubleSh0t

iTrader: (1)

A big NO NO is getting the transmission flushed. Flush = death to these trannys. Ask anyone on here - I think there were a few members that got a flush and within 10,000 miles they were getting a rebuild.

If you have to change the fluid, do a drain and fill.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Flush = bad

Drain and fill is the only way to go

MoSp33d

yeah my fault thats wha i meant...no flushes on tranny or engine...jus drain and fill...sorry...slipped mymind...i would know...flushed it once...and BAM gone!

DaInFaMMuS1

you can flush the motor, just not the tranny.

CLMike98

Yea thanks guys. I didn't have time to take it to be looked at yet, but i havn't drove it any more. I checked it hot today not runnning and it was about 1/2 to 1 quart over (maybe 1/2 inch over the crosses) been like that i guess but I doubt that is making any differance so I am going to drain about a quart see what happens. If it is still jereking 1-2 sec after i come to my stop and making that damn delayed down shift feeling (I am pretty sure that is what is by now takes a sec then goes from 2nd to 1st) Then I am going to drain the majority of the fluid and refill with acura brand fluid and maybe if that don't help add some trans-x or lucas or something before calling it a lost cause but i know all that "liqud cure" is crap and has never helped anything i owned so... I'll just cross my fingers that it stops for a few more months after the drain (wish it would have been a manual). I did find a v-tec used tranny loacal for cheap but i doubt i'll go used after this let down.

DoubleSh0t

iTrader: (1)

You have to check it running to be able to tell. However, overfilled transmission fluid will cause the rough shifting and stuff you describe.

bigT

Make sure if you change the fluid you use the honda brand. Around here its about 6.50 a quart. The drain is 2.5 quarts each time. So if you do it right you are looking at about 10 quarts. about 65.00 bucks plus tax. Still, cheaper than about anything else you do to your tranny.