klepto

FAQ section is here for further mod information

***if you cant see all the guides (there should be two pages of threads) then scroll down all the way to the bottom, on the left you should see "display options" click on the "from the" drop down box and change it to "beginning"

please USE THE SEARCH BUTTON before asking questions. Most likely the topic you're concerned about has been discussed before

big thanks to: Alex (Ayougo); Chris (97BlackAckCL); Mitch (SwervinCL)

I will be adding to this from time to time, please PM me (klepto or 97BlackAckCL) if you have any edits or if you want to add to the guide as well.

If you need a copy of your owners manual, please click HERE

and now, the guide...


Intake
3.0 CAI or SRI are from a 98-2002 3.0 Accord
2.3/2.2 CAI or SRI are from a 94-97 2.2 Accord
some popular brands are AEM, Injen. A short ram will generally give you more low end power, less high end, while a CAI will do just the opposite. The AEM V2 claims to have the best of both worlds, but are really nothing special. If buying an ebay intake, we recommend you get a k&n cone filter for sound quality and filter durability.

Here's the difference between CAI and SRI's.

Cold Air Intake (CAI)
PROS: Since its farther away from the engine it get colder air wich carries more oxygen thus creating bigger explosions in the engine thus giving more horse power.
CONS: Since its a longer pipe it takes longer for the air to get to the engine (less throttle response), since its closer to the ground there is a risk of getting water into the engine causing it to stop.
Neutral: Poorly designed CAIs can gain little, no, or even lose power.

**The cold air intake may have risks but they can be avoided by intaling a bypass valve which is designed to take in large volumes of air with a sudden thrust of the gas pedal and will safely level off and switch to your primary air filter as you coast on the highway. **

Short Ram Intake (SRI)
PROS: Smaller pipe so air response is faster, almost no chance of water getting into engine.
CONS: Since it is closer to the engine it heats up when the car is at a stop and delivers hot air with less oxygen molecules causing the HP to go down.
Neutral: Louder, deeper sound- pro to some, con to others

** Temperature difference is gone when the car is in motion, there is enough air flow to forceably scavange hot air out of the engine bay to be replaced by colder air. **
**However, SRIs with a well designed heat shield can lessen the issue of hot air.**

Note: At any rate, a "good" CAI vs a "good" SRI are practically equivalent when at speed.

Bottom Line:/Any intake is better than a stock intake because the internals of the after market intake is smoother and tested to perform better than stock. stock intake air boxes allow LESS air than moded intakes. MORE air = MORE power!

Exhaust
Cat Back exhaust systems are from a 94-97 Accord 2 Door.
Axel backs are also an option, 94-97 Accord.
Another option is to buy a separate muffler and have a shop do all new piping for you. I'd reccomend a resonator (18" or 22") to help cut back on that "ricey" tone, also make sure if having piping run that the exhaust shop can bend Mandrel bent tubing for better performance and less restriction.

Rims
Lug size is 4x114.3
Rim Offsets: (Thanks hybrdnrg)
195/50/16 - 23.7" diameter (35-45mm offset required)
205/45/16 - 23.3" diameter (35-45mm offset required)
205/50/16 - 24.1" diameter (35-45mm offset required)
215/45/16 - 23.6" diameter (38-45mm offset required)
225/40/16 - 23.1" diameter (42-45mm offset required)
225/45/16 - 24" diameter (42-45mm offset required)

205/40/17 - 23.5" diameter (35-45mm offset required)
205/45/17 - 24.3" diameter (38-45mm offset required)
205/50/17 - 25.1" diameter (38-45mm offset required)
215/40/17 - 23.8" diameter (38-45mm offset required)
215/45/17 - 24.6" diameter (40-45mm offset required)
225/40/17 - 24.1" diameter (42-45mm offset required)
225/45/17 - 25" diameter (42-45mm offset required)

215/35/18 - 23.9" diameter (38-45mm offset required)
215/40/18 - 24.8" diameter (40-45mm offset required)
225/35/18 - 24.2" diameter (42-45mm offset required)
225/40/18 - 25.1" diameter (42-45mm offset required)

215/35/19 - 24.9" diameter (42-45mm offset required)
225/35/19 - 25.2" diameter (42-45mm offset required)


Brakes
Rotors are from 94-97 accord.
Dual piston calipers can be fit into car. Parts needed are Calipers from a Legend. Rotors are from a 92-96 Prelude VTEC or 3.0 CL and Legend Pads. For the Legend Calipers, Type II equipped including the GS sedan or LS coupe, 93-95. are the only kind with dual piston so you will need to locate these types. 2.2/2.3 needs the caliper brackets from 3.0CL, Legend, or 94-96 vtec prelude. Adding this will give you larger rotors and dual piston calipers for greater stopping power.

NOTE: the 97 front rotors are a hub-over-rotor design which means that you'll need to get them pressed on and off with a machine. Most places charge $200+ for this kind of job. Just FYI.

Shifters
Prelude OEM short shifters can be swapped in for stock 2.2 and 2.3 manual shifters, Forbidden and PSPEC are also good options.
Auto shifters can be swapped in from numerous other cars, including CL-S and TL's, as well as just about any push button universal automatic shifter.

Misc Engine Parts.
All 2.2/2.3 engine parts come from a 94-97 Accord (F22) or a 98-2002 Accord (F23).
All 3.0 engine parts come from a 98-2002 Accord V6 (J30A1).
Acura 3.2 CL-S/ TL-S cams can be put into a J30 block.

interchangeable parts
92-01 H22 rod - > F22a/b rod (will push stock F piston out of the hole)
92-96 H23 rod ->Part of engine:
Hpart -> [is interchangeable with] Fpart (notes)

Block:
98-01 H22 crank -> F23ax crank (will destroke 7mm, use H rods?)
92-97 H22 crank -> F22a/b crank (will destroke 4.5mm)
92-96 H23 crank -> F22a/b crank (same part)
92-01 H22 rod - > F22a/b rod (will push stock F piston out of the hole)
92-96 H23 rod -> F22a/b rod (same part) F22a/b rod (sam

Transmission:
All transmissions, clutches, pressure plates, and flywheels are interchangeable.
Gears swapping can be done using the gear sets. LSDs are not swappable as the belt housings are different.

NOTE: THE BEST TRANSMISSION FOR YOU F22 and F23s is THE M2S4 or M2B4 ( contains LSD ) H22 transmissions are geared a shy to short for our engine. These have been known to shave .7 off the quarter mile respectively.

What's this I hear about the 1st gen auto trannies being crap?
a. Differential bearing failure- usually indicated by the axle seals leaking
b. 2nd gear clutch pack failure- usually indicated by lack of second gear, excessive slipping in other gears, car redlines before shifting, delayed shifting (car hold current gear way longer than it should.
c. It is also highly recommended that you put a transmission cooler on your car to prolong the life of the trans and at a minimum change the fluid every year or 30K.

Window Regulators
94-97 Accord coupe window regulators will work on all CL's, but you lose the auto down function.

klepto

Suspension:

credit goes to accordinglydone forums

What everyone should know....
-Please know that you get what you pay for. If you buy a $50 set of springs, you will not get very good quality. That is the reason they are $50.
-If you get lowering springs or coilovers, you will need to get struts that will handle it. Otherwise your stock struts will blow very fast, and it will be dangerous to drive and you will look like an idiot for that matter.
- Individual product pros and cons are at the bottom.


1) Should I lower my CL?
If you want to do it to look cool, maybe no. If you want to do it to get better handling, acceleration, and deceleration. Yes.

2) Can I lower my car and keep a stock ride?
No. A stock ride is caused by soft springs, soft struts, and having loads of suspension travel. Lowering defeats this concept.

3) How do I tell how low my car is?
-lightningd- find another stock accord in a parking lot somewhere, and measure from the center of the wheel to the fender. then measure yours.

4) Where I live the roads are rough. What can I do to compensate for it when I have a lowered car?
-lightningd- If the roads are kinda rough, there's pretty much nothing you can really do to compensate for it when your car is low. this is mainly why cars are high, and have a soft suspension.
-Schmuckingham- I would say nothing over a 1.5" drop with some adjustable shocks like the AGX's at least.

5) I want to lower my CL to handle a little better, as well as for the look. However, I do not plan on doing any racing. What should I get?
- lightningd - I would recommend Eibach Sportline or Nuespeed Race springs and either Koni Reds, Koni Yellows, or KYB ABX struts. They are known to be of good quality. However, better 'racing' applications exist.

6) I want to race my CL in autox or at a road track speedway, as well as drive it on the street. What products should I look for?
- lightningd - I and most people will recommend Ground Control coilovers and Koni Yellows. The best part about the Ground Controls is they use a Eibach Racing Spring and you can choose your spring rate. You can even buy extra sets of springs which go for around $100 a pair I believe. The Koni Yellows offer adjustability of the stiffness of the strut as well. If you are running the same size tire front and rear, you should run a stiffer spring rate in the back. Some people run 300/350, some 400/450, and I will try 350/450, or 350/500, or 400/500 and see what happens.
NOTE: If you are a novice to medium driver, then this can be dangerous, especially in wet conditions.

7) What does spring rate mean? Spring rate is the amount of weight it takes to compress the spring a linear inch. For example, with a 300lb spring, it takes 300 pounds to compress the spring 1 inch.

8) Do I need a Camber kit? Does the height make a difference?
- lightningd - It depends on what you want. Negative camber offers better handling, but can affect tire wear. Which are you more concerned with? If you want better tire wear, make sure you get an alignment to make sure your toe angle is straight (both tires are pointing the same direction down the road). There are two types of camber kits that I know of for our accords. The original Ingall's camber kit that pushes the upper control arm outwards, which in relation pushes the tire straight up as well. However, if the control arm is moved out too far, then it will smack the underside of the fender and make a horrendous noise every time you hit a bump hard enough. The other camber kit is called the ball joint kit. It replaces the ball joint at the end of the upper control arm. Being adjustable, it moves the knuckle outward which in relation moves the tire out. I do not believe this causes any problems with 'banging' unless someone on here will inform me about it. During installation of the kit, it must be put on very accurately b/c it will affect castor if not put on straight. I haven't installed this kit, so I’m not sure on the correct procedure.
-M23Accord- I use the ball joint camber kit and they do occasionally (the UCAs) hit the upper part of the fender but few and far between. Only on serious dips in the road. But you are dead on about the mounting of these. A millimeter difference makes a huge impact on alignment, both caster and camber.

9) What do I need to know about Ground Control Coilovers?
PROS
- when you order from GC direct, you can pick custom spring rates, and get as many as you want
- good quality
- performance oriented if needed
- height adjustable
- uses Eibach Racing Springs
CONS
- more expensive than lowering springs

10) What do I need to know about Koni Reds?
PROS
- Koni = quality
CONS
- non-adjustable
Comments
- phatdoughnut - My wifes 4th gen accord has Koni reds with some eibachs(sp?) sports and the ride quality is amazing. Defiantly recommend these to anyone who wants something better than oem replacement, but not want to fork out the big bucks for something adjustable.

11) What do I need to know about Koni Yellows?
Two types. Standard and Nuespeed Sport Editions.
Standard has 3 perch settings. The fronts are adjustable with the knob. The rears you have to take the strut off the car to adjust.
VXCL-koni yellows both f and r are adj by knob, no need to take anything off car unless you want to change the perch in which both f and r are like that. i never had any probs adj my rear shocks in the trunk.
Sports have 5 perch settings along w/ shorter shafts. The shafts mean that the spring will not come out of the seat when the car is jacked up. The rear struts are adjustable with the knob, and the strut on the car.
VXCL-never ever had this happen with standard koni yellows with prokits however may happen with sportlines or more agressive drop springs


PROS
- Koni = quality
- adjustable w/ a knob
- can be revalved and made to custom stiffness by Koni
- adjustable spring perch settings
- lifetime warrenty (and they do honor it!)
CONS
- rear bracket needs to be taken off to adjust rear struts, unless you do something custom
-VXCL-again never had a prob adj the rear dampers, just put the knob on and spin
- on the expensive side

13) What should I know about KYB GR2?
-lightningd- I know that the KYB GR2s are replacements for OEM. Someone correct me if I’m wrong. I would not recommend them on a lowered car, b/c that is not what they are designed for. They might work ok for a while, do to a little better quality than OEM, but eventually will still get worn out quicker than an AGX or Koni Yellow.
-Confuc1ous- The KYB GR2's are capable of handling a lowered suspension up to 1.5 inches. They are OEM replacement but better. They aren’t the adjustable type like the AGX but when manufactured they are made so they can facilitate up to a 1.5 inch drop. The best spring, according to KYB for this application is the Neuspeed SofSport or Sport springs. Anything that will take the car moderately lower than 1.5 inches, well, what you mentioned above is the outcome.

14) What do I need to know about KYB AGX's?
PROS
- decent quality
- wallet friendly
- adjustable stiffness. 4 settings for front. 8 settings for rear
- rear adjustment knob is reachable behind the wheel
CONS
- settings aren't as able to be fine tunes as the Koni Yellows
- warranty only good if the car is lowered 1.5" or higher. Any lower voids the warranty, and I’ve heard they don't last as long when the car is around 3" lowered.

Adjustment Values:
4-Dial (Front)
...Setting#: Relative Value
...1 - Same as Factory 100
...2 - 10~15% firmer than Factory 115
...3 - 50% firmer than #2 172
...4 - 30% firmer than #3 223
8-dial (Rear)
...#1 = 95 (5% softer than Factory
...#2 = 100 (Factory damping force)
...#3 = 107.5 (7.5% firmer than Factory)
...#4 = 115 (15% firmer than Factory)
...#5 = 143.5 (43.5% firmer than Factory)
...#6 = 172 (72% firmer than Factory)
...#7 = 197.5 (97.5 firmer than Factory)
...#8 = 223 (123 % firmer than Factory )

15) What do I need to know about Tokico HP's?
-Chris- I hear from most people that have used them that they tend to blow out fairly easily. Tokicos DO have a lifetime warranty so they will replace it if you have the original purchase receipt. They are also non-adjustable and not very stiff as far as dampening goes.
-Trapshot68- Tokico blue (blow) suck. I had them, and they're better than blown shocks with a 1.5" drop, but after about I'd say 25k, they blew out. My rear end sags like nothing, and I didn't even really drive it that hard. I drive the canyons a lot to work, and that's about it....Sure, they're lifetime warranty, but why do I want to spend a day ripping them out, waiting for them to ship me a new one, and then spend more money to align the car again??? ....BLUES=SHIT. Spend the extra $100 and get the kyb. I'd rather take the time to save up the extra money, than take the time and replace a blown "new" shock

16) What do I need to know about Tokico Illuminas?
-Chris- The Tokico Illuminas are a much better product [than the HP's], and give you 5 adjustability settings front and rear. I use these on my car and have had them for nearly four years with absolutely no issues. Adjustment dials are on the top of the strut tower. Overall quality of these struts seems pretty good; most people that ride in my car are impressed with how flat the car handles in hard turns.

17) What do I need to know about the Tokico Illumina coil-overs?
No answers yet.

19) What do I need to know about the Tein Basics?
-Grodzman-
MSRP: $750
Spring Rates: Front: 336lbs/square in. Rear: 280lbs/square in.
Drop: Front: -2.4" Rear: -2.0"
Height Adjustability Range: Front: -1.8~-3.5 Rear: -1.1~-2.7
EDFC INCOMPATIBLE

20) What do I need to know about the Tein Super Streets?
Tein Type SS: # DSA16-KUSS2 - Retails for $1000
For : 94-97 HONDA Accord, CD5/7
16 way adjustable
Spring Rate F/R : 336 / 280 lbs/in
Ride Height F/R : -2.1 / -1.6 in
SPRING RATE ADJUSTMENT RANGE
Front Rate Max/Min : +2.0 / -2.0 lbs/in
Rear Rate Max/Min : +2.0 / -2.0 lbs/in
RIDE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT RANGE
Front Range Max/Min : -1.4 to -3.3 in
Rear Range Max/Min : -0.7 to -2.5 in
EDFC Part # : Not Compatible

21) What do I need to know about the Tein Super Streets w/Pillow Balls?
Tein Type SS-P: # DSA16-2USS1 - Retails for $1300
SAME specs as Tein SS
EDFC Part # : EDKU1-12120

22) What do I need to know about the d2 racing RS coilovers
part no. D2-H07
MSRP: $1,055.56
comes with pillowball upper mounts
32 way adjustable

23) What do I need to know about the H&R Sport Springs? (#51851)
-SpecialED-
- Drop: Front 1.75" Rear 1.5"
- 25% Stiffer than OEM

24) What do I need to know about the H&R Race Springs? (#51851-88)
-SpecialED-
- Drop: Front 2.2" Rear 2.0"
- Spring Rates: Front: 485lbs/square in. Rear: 305lbs/square in.
-phatdoughnut- I ordered some H&R Race springs for my friend and it lowered his car to much for street use.

25) What do I need to know about the Omni Power Coilovers
-Jerimiah-
- quite high quality.
- 12kg/front, 10kg/rear for the Sports.
Ride quality is smooth over "good" roads. And when you get into the bumpy's you can definitely feel it. Can be lowered in the front from 1" to I would say about 3.5"-4". The rear end can be kept at stock ride height, or down low enough to have the back end of the car almost touching. Quite a bit of adjustability.
__________________


3.0 – Springs from a 95-97 V6 Accord. Eibach, Neuspeed, and Suspension Techniques are the only brands that make springs specifically for the 3.0 CL
Eibach Pro Kit (CL) - 1.4f/1.4r
Neuspeed Sport (CL) – 1.75f/1.5r
Suspension Techniques Sport (CL) – 1.5f/1.5r
Suspension Techniques SpeedTech (CL) – 2.3f/2.0r
Intrax Sport (Accord V6) - 1.8f/1.7r

2.3/2.2 – Springs from 94-97 Accord.
Eibach Pro Kit (CL) – 1.3f/1.3r
Eibach Sport Lines (CL) – 1.7f/1.7r
Neuspeed Sport (CL) – 1.75f/1.5r
Neuspeed SofSport (CL) – 1.7f/1.7r
Neuspeed Race (CL) – 2.2f/2.0r
Suspenstion Techniques Sport (CL) – 1.0f/1.0r
Suspenstion Techniques SpeedTech (CL) – 2.0f/2.0r
HKS Superform (Accord) - 1.25f/1.25r
Intrax Sport (Accord) - 1.7f/1.6r
Skunk 2 (Accord) - 2.0f/1.8r
Megan Racing (Accord) – 2.0f/1.75r
Tein S.Tech (Accord) - 2.0f/1.4r
H&R Race (Accord) - 2.5f/2.25r
H&R Sport (Accord) - 1.75f/1.5r

2.3/2.2/3.0 Shocks/Struts
KYB AGX (Adjustable) (94-97 Accord)
KYB GR-2 (Non- Adjustable) (94-97 Accord)
Tokico Illumina (Adjustable) (97-97 Accord)
Tokico HP (Non Adjustable) (94-97 Accord)
Koni Sport Yellow (Adjustable) (94-97 Accord)
Koni Special Red (Non Adjustable) (94-97 Accord)
Bilstein (Non Adjustable) (94-97 Accord)


Sway Bars
Upgraded sway bars will reduce body roll, and reduces the traction of the tires so that the car can turn/rotate more easily. Will also help reduce the massive amount of wheel hop the CL’s have. Sway bars are from a 94-97 accord for both the 2.3 and 3.0.

Camber Kits
Ingalls – (94-97 Accord)
SRI – (94-97 Accord)
Eibach – (94-97 Accord)

klepto

uLight bulb sizes
1997-1999 ACURA CL
Low beam headlamp | 9006
High beam headlamp | 9005
Front corners | 168/194
Rear corners| 168/194
Front turn signal | 7440
Rear turn signal | 1157
Tail light |1157
High mount stop light | 7440
License plate | 168
Back up light | 1156
Glove box | 3021
Map light |168/194 | 3021 (97’s)
Dome light | DE3910
Door light | DE3021
Trunk/Cargo area | 3021

Aftermarket black housing headlights
You have two choices, go and find DEPO brand headlights, or you can open up your headlights and do it yourself. Check the FAQ page for the write up.
The DEPO brand headlights can be found on any speed shops website or ebay. One thing to note is that the DEPO black housing headlights have black strips that go across the corner marker area.

FYI, there are no aftermarket projectors or altezzas.

Body Kits
There are only a few body kits out there for our cars. The black widow and the spyder kit. Both IMO look like complete ass.

Lip Kits
Wings West makes a front lip for our car, recently ABS has also came out with one.
As for sides and rear, you can custom fit 94-97 accord sides and rears. Keep in mind that if you go Wings West, there are three different looking rears, the 94-95, 96-97, and then the wagon rear.

How hard is it to modify?
For some, they claim the sides fit right on, for others, some minor cutting is done so that the door can open up regularly
The rear is another story. For the rear to fit on you have to cut out a ~2" section from the middle and then bond it back together. Most shops wont even attempt such a task since its hard to find a material that wont bend or crack. Please check with your local body shops before atempting these mods.

My window regulator is dead, what do I do?
saiko_cl_duck--

-94-97 accord window regulators work.
-They're one piece, not two seperate items.
-if it's slow, lube it with silicone spray.
-if it's still slow, look to replace it.
-if the window falls down and you hear grinding, the regulator is toast, take off the door panel and prop it up with a bar or rubber wedge.

the DIY to removing the door panel is in the DIY section, along with a DIY for replacing the window regulator

klepto

Codes for 3.0s

How do I pull my engine codes if I do not have a scanner tool?
Do one of the following:
a. Go to Autozone and have them read your codes (it's free)
or
b. See the instructions below

WARNING!!!: USE AT YOUR OWN RISK AS SHORTING THE WRONG PINS WILL RESULT IN DAMAGED ECU.

a. Find the Data Link Connector (DLC) located under the instrument panel in the driver's side. It is bolted to the kick panel and is gray in color on the 1998 models.
b. Jump terminals 8 and 13 by connecting them with a wire/cable.
...............________
...._____|________|_____
.../|1...2...3...4...5...6...7...8|\
../.|==============...|.\
./..|9.10.11.12.13.14.15.16.|...\
/----------------------------------- \
DATA LINK CONNECTOR (DLC)
c. Turn the ignition key to ON and observe the "CHECK ENGINE" light. It will flash the trouble codes. For example: 2
long flashes, pause and then 3 short flashes = 23 = P0325 = Knock sensor circuit fault (4 cyl only).
One short flash = 1. One long flash = 10. If there are no trouble codes, the light will not flash.
Flashes.....Code(s)............................... ..........Description
1...............P0131,P0132....................... .........Primary heated O2 sensor circuit low/high voltage
3...............P0107,P0108....................... .........Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor circuit low/high voltage
4.............. P0335,P0336.................................Cranks haft position sensor
5.............. P1128,P1129.................................Map sensor circuit low/high voltage
6...............P0117,P0118....................... .........Electronic Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit low/high input
7...............P0122,P0123,P1121,P1122........... Throttle position sensor (TPS) circuit low/high input
8...............P1359,P1361,P1362................. ....CKP/TDC sensor 1
9...............P1381,P1382....................... .........CYP Sensor
10.............P0112,P0113........................ ........Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit low/high input
12.............P1491,P1498........................ ........EGR valve
13.............P1106,P1107,P1108.................. ...Barometric pressure sensor
14.............P0505,P1519........................ .........IAC valve
17.............P0500.............................. ..............VSS fault
20.............P1297,P1298........................ .........Electric Load Detector (ELD)
21.............P1253.............................. ..............VTEC
22.............P1257,P1258,P1259.................. ....VTEC
23.............P0325.............................. ..............Knock sensor
41.............P0135,P1166,P1167.................. ....Primary heated O2 sensor
45.............P0171,P0172........................ .........System adaptive fuel too lean/rich
48.............P1162.............................. ..............Primary heated O2 sensor
58.............P1366,P1367........................ .........TDC sensor 2
61.............P0133,P1149,P1163,64,65............ Primary heated O2 sensor
63.............P0137,38,39........................ ...........Secondary heated O2 sensor
65.............P0141.............................. ...............Secondary heated O2 sensor
67.............P0420.............................. ...............Catalyst system efficiency below threshold
70.............P0715,20,25,30,40,53,58,63......... .Automatic transaxle malfunction
71.............P0300,P0301........................ ..........Random/Cylinder 1 misfire
72.............P0302.............................. ...............Cylinder 2 misfire
73.............P0303.............................. ...............Cylinder 3 misfire
74.............P0304.............................. ...............Cylinder 4 misfire
75.............P0305.............................. ...............Cylinder 5 misfire
76.............P0306.............................. ...............Cylinder 6 misfire
80.............P0401.............................. ...............EGR insufficient flow
86.............P0116.............................. ...............Electronic Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor range/performance
90.............P1456,P1457........................ ..........EVAP control system leak
91.............P0452,P0453........................ ..........EVAP fuel tank pressure sensor low/high input

The following codes will not flash since they require a code scanner:
P1607-PCM internal circuit failure
P1705,06,38,39,53,68,73,91-Automatic transaxle failure

HOW TO CLEAR TROUBLE CODES (after you fix the problem)
a. Remove ignition key
b. Locate fuse panel on passenger's side
c. Remove fuse no. 13 10 seconds, and then place it back in.

klepto

originally posted by Nakamichi

The SRS light can easily come on when it loses connection to any part of the SRS system. I remember disconnecting and reconnecting the the Airbag on the steering wheel which caused the light to stay on until I reset it.

Reset the Diagonostic Trouble Code (DTC) from the system to determine if it was a fluke or if there's a problem.
How to reset SRS Indicator Light

If the SRS is still on after resetting the DTC, best bet is to determine what DTC is being thrown and that should lead you in the direction to determine what is causing the problem.

Check for the SRS Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC).

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and wait for 10 seconds. Then connect a paperclip/wire to the Connect the Service Check Connector. The Service Check Connector is on the front passenger side above the kick panel.

2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). The SRS indicator light comes on for about six seconds then goes off for about two seconds. Then the SRS light will indicate each DTC using slow blink(s) (1.2sec) followed by fast blink(s) (0.3sec).

For example a DTC of 4-2, will have 4 slow blinks then 2 fast blinks.

There is a 2-second pause between the slow and fast blinks and between each DTC. The SRS system can hold upto 3 DTCs. So supposed you had 3 DTC of 2-1, 1-2, 1-1; Your SRS light will react as the following:

Ignition ON (II)
- Bulb check (6 seconds)
- 2 sec pause
DTC 2-1
- 2 slow blinks
- 2 sec pause
- 1 fast blink
- 2 sec pause
DTC 1-2
- 1 slow blinks
- 2 sec pause
- 2 fast blink
- 2 sec pause
DTC 1-1
- 1 slow blinks
- 2 sec pause
- 1 fast blink
- 2 sec pause


Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Chart
1-1 Open in driver's airbag inflator
1-2 Incrase resistance in driver's airbag inflator
1-3 Short to another wire in the driver's airbag inflator or decrease resistance
1-3 Short to power in the driver's airbag inflator
1-5 Short to ground in the driver's airbag inflator
2-1 Open in passenger's airbag inflator
2-2 Incrase resistance in passenger's airbag inflator
2-3 Short to another wire in the passenger's airbag inflator or decrease resistance
2-3 Short to power in the passenger's airbag inflator
2-5 Short to ground in the passenger's airbag inflator
5-1, 5-4, 5-5, 6-1, 6-2, 6-3, 6-4, 7-1, 7-2, 7-3, 8-1, 8-2 Internal failure of the SRS unit
8-6 Internal failure of the SRS unit or two failures at a time
9-1 Internal failure of the SRS unit
9-2 Faulty SRS power supply (VB line)
10-1 SRS airbags deployed (SRS unit must be replaced)

klepto

Thanks to the batmobile for the link/info

Engine Type
3.0-liter, 24-valve SOHC w/VTEC V-6 (3.0CL)
2.3-liter, 16-valve SOHC w/VTEC inline 4-cylinder (2.3CL)

Horsepower, SAE net
200 hp @ 5000 rpm (3.0CL)
150 hp @ 5700 rpm (2.3CL)

Torque, SAE net
195 lbs-ft @ 4800 rpm (3.0CL)
152 lbs-ft @ 4800 rpm (2.3CL)

Redline
6300 rpm

Fuel Cutoff
6600 rpm (3.0CL)
6500 rpm (2.3CL)

Bore & Stroke
3.39 in x 3.39 in
(86.0 mm x 86.0 mm) (3.0CL)

3.39 in x 3.82 in
(86.0 mm x 97.0 mm) (2.3CL)

Displacement
182.9 cu in (2997 cc) (3.0CL)
137.5 cu in (2254 cc) (2.3CL)

Compression Ratio
9.4:1 (3.0CL) 9.3:1 (2.3CL)

Induction System
Multi-point Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI)

Valvetrain
SOHC 24-valve w/Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control (VTEC) system (3.0CL)
SOHC 16-valve w/Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control (VTEC) system (2.3CL)

Engine Block
Aluminum alloy

Cylinder Head
Aluminum alloy with 4 valves per cylinder and VTEC

Emission Control
3-way catalyst

Ignition System
Full Electronic ignition

Alternator
12V, 100A (3.0CL)
12V, 80A (2.3CL)

Battery
12V, 72A (3.0CL)
12V, 52A (2.3CL)

Recommended Fuel
Unleaded regular

Body Type
Unit body

Front Suspension
Independent double-wishbone

Rear Suspension
Independent double-wishbone

Shock Absorbers
NWS-type (New Wide Setting)

Stabilizer Bars
(3.0CL) Front Diameter 25 mm (0.98 in) (solid)
Rear Diameter 16 mm (0.63 in) (solid)

(2.3CL) Front Diameter 27.2 mm (1.07 in) (hollow)
Rear Diameter 16 mm (0.63 in) (solid)

Steering Type
Rotary-valve, variable-assist, power rack-and-pinion

Steering Ratio
17.4:1

Steering Wheel Turns, lock-to-lock
3.0

Turning Diameter
39.04 ft (11.9 m)

Wheels
6 JJ x 16 7-spoke (3.0CL)
6 JJ x 16 5-spoke (2.3CL)

Tires
P205/55 R16 Michelin MXV4

Braking System
Front Discs
(3.0CL) Ventilated, 11.1 in (282 mm) diameter, 1.0 in (25 mm) rotor thickness
(2.3CL) Ventilated, 10.2 in (260 mm) diameter, 0.9 in (23 mm) rotor thickness

Rear Discs
(3.0CL) Solid, 10.2 in (260 mm) diameter, 0.39 in (10 mm) rotor thickness
(2.3CL) Solid, 10.2 in (260 mm) diameter, 0.4 in (10 mm) rotor thickness

Total Swept Area
(3.0CL)370.1 sq in (2389 cm2)
(2.3CL)363.9 sq in (2267 cm2)

Parking Brake
Separate parking caliper

Anti-lock Braking System (ABS)
Acura-designed system with four wheel-speed sensors and electronic/hydraulic control unit

POWERTRAIN
Type
Transverse front engine/front-wheel drive

Transmission
Ratios (:1)

3.0CL 4-speed automatic
1st 2nd 3rd 4th Reverse Final
2.534 1.502 0.947 0.608 1.846 4.200

2.3CL 5-speed manual
1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Reverse Final
3.285 1.807 1.193 0.903 0.685 3.000 4.062

2.3CL 4-speed automatic
1st 2nd 3rd 4th Reverse Final
2.528 1.427 0.981 0.620 1.863 4.466

CAPACITIES
Crankcase
4.6 U.S. quarts (4.4 liters) refill capacity, including filter (3.0CL)
4.5 U.S. quarts (4.3 liters) refill capacity, including filter (2.3CL)

b]Cooling System[/b]
9.3 U.S. quarts (8.8 liters)(3.0CL)
7.3 U.S. quarts (6.9 l liters)(2.3CL w/ 5-speed manual)
7.2 U.S. quarts (6.8 liters) (2.3CL w/ 4-speed automatic)

Fuel Tank
17.2 U.S. gallons (65 liters)

Passenger Volume
84.7 cu ft

Cargo Volume (trunk)
12.0 cu ft

Total Volume
96.7 cu ft

FUEL ECONOMY
Factory Estimated Fuel Mileage, City/Highway
3.0CL 20 / 28
2.3CL 25 / 31 (manual) 23 / 29 (automatic)

EXTERIOR DIMENSIONS
b]Wheelbase [/b] 106.9 in (2715 mm)
Track, front 59.6 in (1515mm)
Track, rear 59.1 in (1500 mm)
Overall length 190.0 in (4827 mm)
Overall width 70.1 in (1780 mm)
Height* 54.7 in (1390 mm)
* measured at the Manufacturers Design Load Weight
Minimum Ground Clearance* 4.33 in (110 mm)
* measured at the Manufacturers Design Load Weight
Curb Weight
3.0CL automatic 3215 lbs(1464 kg)
2.3CLmanual 3062 lbs(1390 kg)
2.3CLautomatic 3004 lbs(1365 kg)

Weight Distribution (% F/R)
3.0CL 64/36
2.3CL 63/37

INTERIOR DIMENSIONS
Front
Head Room 37.4 in (951 mm)
Leg Room 42.9 in (1090 mm)
Hip Room 51.6 in (1310 mm)
Shoulder Room 54.4 in (1383 mm)

Rear
Head Room 35.9 in (913 mm)
Leg Room 31.0 in (788 mm)
Hip Room 47.6 in (1210 mm)
Shoulder Room 53.1 in (1349 mm)

WARRANTIES
Vehicle
4-year/50,000-mile limited warranty
Outer Body Rust-Through
5-year/unlimited-mile limited warranty

Roadside Assistance (TLC)
4-year/50,000-miles



here's the original link if you want to see it:
http://209.85.165.104/search?q=cache...ient=firefox-a[/QUOTE]

saiko_cl_duck

Credit to Palayah8ta for digging it up off of honda-tech.com

*CELs and LIMP MODE
Any number of things can throw you into limp mode and you definately won't have vtec. Most likely if you have a CEL fix that first then worry about VTEC. CEL can be a great indicator as to whats going on, and that light is lit for a reason. even when people say, "I have a CEL but thats a different issue" ,fix that FIRST, then worry about vtec. many codes that are set have alot to do with why vtec isn't working. If your car is not acting right take apart the dash and check that your CEL light is not burnt out. it should light up when you first turn the key on.

*VSS/ SPEEDO
If your car loses its speed reference vtec will not engauge. the ecu will see it just as if you were sitting still reving the engine, no vtec

*OIL
If you don't have the correct oil presure no vtec:
possible causes; dented or damaged oil pan , not enough oil, or oil is so old and crappy it is thin as water

*VTEC OIL PRESURE switch
The VTEC oil presure switch is what feeds back information the the computer to tell it wether or not the opening of the solinoid has alowed high presure oil into the vtec oil gallerys. Once the solinoid opens oil shoud presurize the vtec oil ways pushing the locker pins into place while the oil presure sensor right next to the vtec solinoid feeds back info to the ecu.

*TEMP
The cars coolant temp needs to be at a certian temp for vtec to engage, if any of your temperature sensors are screwed up that is another possibility to look into

*VTEC SOLINOID Gasket/Screen
A cloged or dirty screen that is part of the vtec soliniod gasket causes vtec to not engage or be intermintent.

*THROTTLE POSITION
If your throwing a code for the TPS being bad or wacky this can also cause intermitant or no engagement, from my expermiments, whether vtec engauges or not is throttle position dependent.


Testing the mechanics of VTEC

*You want to check are that you have the appropriate oil presure at head when approching the rpm vtec engauges. I have seen motors where their just wasn't enough oil press and it doesn't throw any CEL but vtec just doesn't work and you hit the 6500 rev limit. The way to check is take the 10mm bolt out of the head that is on the front left if you are facing the motor. This bolt gives you access to the oil way of vtec, this is the same bolt that you remove to do the air presure test listed below. But anway you need to get a gauge that screws into the oil port. Now from here you have two choices. once you have the gauge installed you can either raise the car up and run the car in gear in order to simulate the speed so the vtec solinoid will open and then measure the presure OR you can disconnect the 1 pin connector from the vtec solinoid and aply batery voltage tot he solinoid in order to open it so oil can/should flow into the vtec oil gallerys. The test has to have the motor reving at least up to if not beyond 5000rpm in order to get an accurate oil reading. now what ever way you shose to get the solinoid to open with the car runing is up to you but at 5000rpm you should read a minimum of 60 psi of press at that port. if you do end up having enough oil press i would investigate a bad vtec oil presure sensor. Also not having enough oil presure can also account for "Late" engaugement, where you reach the apropriate press after the preset engaugement point and then the ecu alows vtec to engauge because the required oil presure has been met.

*Secondly you want to make sure that your solinoid is opperational, take it off and using a 12 volt source and a ground make sure that the solinoid operates quickly and smoothly when 12v is applied. this is the valve and if it isn't working vtec won't either

*Third if all else fails you can check that vtec mechanics work by using air presure(this test should then be followed up by the oil presure test) Take off the valve cover, take the plug out of the front of the head next to the header, either find a fitting that you can adapt your air hose to screw in the head or get a blow gun with a rubber tip. with another person you have to block the bleed hole on the 5th cam cap and while applying 40-60 spi of air presure , slowly crank over the motor using the main crank pully and watch to see that all 3 rockers lock togther and start to follow the middle lob, the VTEC lob. you may even hear a tiny click as the pins in the rockers lock the 3 togther. also you will be able to tell that the vtec lobe is being followed as the lift or how far the valves are pushed down is much greater. with the appropriate air presure and if everything is workign corectly every valve should be following the vtec lob. make sure that you have a good air compresor that can keep up with keeping a presure of 40-60 psi. if you don't have luck try raising the presure a littlbe bit, but i wouldn't go much hiogher than 80 psi.

once you have verified that all the maechanics are working : vtec solinoid, oil press, and valve assembly then you can move from there and see where the problem lies in wiring.

Other Info

things i haven't seen but are possible are, a faulty vtec solnoid, vtec oil presure sensor, and if your ecu is not detecting the RPM signal.

more vtec presure switch info: the vtec presure switch is just that , a switch , its on or off depending on the oil presure. the ecu sends out about a 10v signal from 1 pin and runs it thru the presure switch back tot he ecu. if the presure is to low the switch stays closed and the ecu "sees" this by the 10v returning, after the vtec solinoid opens the ecu is expecting to see that the switch is opend by the oil presure and for its 10v feed back to disapear.


THE JUMPER WIRE THEORY:if you just jumper the wire your simulating a switch that never opens, on the flip side however if you just disconnect it i think the ecu is smart enough to know that before the engaugement point it wasn't "seeing" its 10v feedback so it throws a vtec malfunction. doing some testing you can get a multimeater: remove the 2p connector from the vtec presure switch , measure voltage with the ignition on between the two pins on the plug you should measure about 10v, this will indicate the wires to the ecu for the vtec presure switch are good, then turn the key off and measure for continuity between the two terminals on the vtec presure switch. seeing as this is a switch its natural state is closed you should measure close to no resistance thru the switch. now this info just means the switch is good if you read continuity thru it but that doesn't mean that the switch is opening when it is supposed to. i would investigate the presure switch further if the oil presure tests are done and found that the correct oil presure is indeed there.

also where you car is hitting its rev limiter can give away even more information, if you can only rev to 6500 and then hit a fuel cut then your not in limp mode but one of the requirements for vtec to engauge has not been met.. such as temp, oil press speed, etc..

IAB solenoid activates on a P13 (91-96) at 4600, and 4900 on a P5M (97-01)
VTEC solenoid activates on a P13 (91-96) at 4900, and 5200 on a P5M (97-01)

but if you car is only reving to (i think limp mode if 5000 rpm) then you have something seriously prohibiting the car, and most likely almost definatly your CEL should be on, and like i said fix and present codes befor eyou worry about VTEC.

and NO vtec does not engauge if you sitting still in your car and reving it, the secondary runners will open up, but the vtec soliniod will not open.

which brings me to another point, part of what makes vtec work well is the fact that right before the secondary cam profiles engauge the secondary runners in the intake manafold open up to accomadate the engines greater demand for air flow when in VTEC. some times there maybe something wrong with the wiring that tells the IAB soliniod to remove vacume from the diaphram that holds them closed. If anything is wrong with the IAB system then that can cause vtec to feel like it is not engauging. The Iabs are rpm dependant only, and the do open if you reving the car in neutal. THe Iabs are held closed when the car is idling by vacume and continue to be held closed by vacume stored in the small canaster under the intake manifold so you will have vacume to the required rpm even at WOT. With key off and no vacume the IABs open due to a spring. so once vacume is removed they just go to their rest state which is open.

Wiring info
credit to jdmlude_dude ::check here for more info http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=833163

There are 2 wire tha come out of the vtec pressure switch, one is hot and goes to pin D6 and the other can just be grounded off on the motor or on the chassis

A4 = Vtec Solenoid
D6 = Vtec Oil Pressure Switch


if you take the ecu and look at the pins as if it were in the car, say you lay it on a table with the top facing up and you look as the pins, the "A" pin numbers will start on the very right, Example:
Top side w/ the sticker
----------------D6------------------------------------A4---
l --------------\/---- -------------- -------------------\/-- l
l l oo . . . . . . . . o ll . . . . . . . . ll oo . . . . . . . . ooo l l
l l oo . . . . . . . . o ll . . . . . . . . ll oo . . . . . . . . ooo l l
l -------------------- -------------- ----------------------- l
-------------------------------------------------------------

Alternator/Battery/Charging System Troubleshooting
Try these things first, before taking it to a shop. This link provides self diagnostic techniques.
http://www3.telus.net/chemelec/Proje...Alternator.htm

saiko_cl_duck

Take a look here


1G CL Member Directory


This a recent list, and one that I keep updated continously. If you need help, or want to get up with people in your area, here's a great way to find them!