i know him from grade school so I'm gonna prolly do it for nothing..probably

i'll make him take me out to dinner or something at least :-). that never hurt

 

Dont forget "dessert."

 

i was hard to tell from that video but I am guessing that the repalcement part is metal?

 

lol if you take him out to dinner he may get the wrong idea and want you to put out afterewards

 

Steak and BJ?

:theghey:

 

u guys are jokes... honestly

I say on thing and u turn it around to a gay comment

hahah lil fuckers


hey on another note... can anyone tell me what the symptoms of a bad check valve would be on a brake booster on my CL..

Cause my break pedal has less throw when it is cold.. and when it warms up it goes back to 100%..

think it's a bad check valve?? or the fucking master cylinder... or booster..

this problem comes and goes every day USUALLY. there has been 2 days in the last 2 months it was fine in the morning. but really wtf??

i cannot hunt this fucking thing down

 

u got a vaccum leak? i would think with a bad check valve it would take a few pumps to build up the pedal.....?

 

sort of... but u just end up building back pressure and not stopping harder... like the pedal will hit the floor and no abs or nothing so somethings fishy. and then eventually the peal begins to pinch after a few random test stops, nothing crazy. It's the worse in the morning and then after it gets better you stop the car for a few hrs and it's cold then get back in and it'll take less time to get them back to 100%..

does that help?

would a simple sticky/about to fail check valve actually cause that?

and there are no vaccum leaks at all, idle is perfect, car drive like a dream... just this random intermitent problem that is consistently intermittent....

so frustrating to not know where to look, damnit i'm not use to this

 

how can I isolate the issue to make sure it's one thing or another?

 

Is your master cylinder leaking? Check for leaking fluid on the brake booster right below where the M/C is mounted. Do you see a fluid leak there? If so, your M/C is bad and needs to be replaced. It is possible that you may have to replace the booster too. The fluid leaking into the booster can and will damage the rubber diaphragm inside if the fluid is in there long enough.

 

yea... no leaks nothing... i've never seen a drip or fluid anywhere on this car and I check it like every few weeks... and a lot lately cause of the brakes... NO fluid loss zero, zip

all i can point at is check valve and or my master cylinder or booster... but I dunno how to diagnose either...

and this problem comes and goes every single day... and it worries me that one day it won't be ok and then I will have to fix it for my safety..

in the morning it's like the harder u press it the worse the brakes are... if you ease into the pedal u get that smooth application of the brakes but still don't get the GRAB that get the abs going... until u brake a few times and then eventually she comes to life..

what would you do?

 

if something looked bad i'd know where to look but there simply is nothing to give me a clue that it's not functioning right.

wouldn't the brake light come on if it sensed a pressure difference in the booster diaphram?

or is it likely to not get a light with an issue like this?

 

fluid was flushed and changed also 4 days ago, which made no difference

I am all ears guys, ALL EARS.. (well all eyes actually)

 

I dnt knw whats wrong with it but thats why i dnt buy american cars

 

i'm talking about my CL-s brakes right now... not the cobalt

 

Take it into a shop. Don't risk yours or anybody else's safety.

 

FOUND IT!!!!!

it's the booster check valve!!!

I turned the car on this morning and it was acting up so i drove down the street and then I turned off the road, turned off the car and then I pressed the pedal and it would not go down even one time.

Which (from hours of reading) would say that my brake booster check valve is sticking/malfunctioning. So a 41$ fix!

sweet... now time for buddy's cobalt :-)

 

Mini's do the same thing. Nobody has figued out a cure as of yet.

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My car has done it a few times already, and the noise disappears after a few minutes. Only on cold day/cold starts...

 

^http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/message.jspa?messageID=398650

 

the problem is your friend bought an american car. That shit about to nada anytime now...

HAHAHA JP

Hopefully, he can fix it under warranty. If not ask him to do what that dude did in the vid. That was a very educational vid man. I learned something new tonight.

 

yea he's ordering the coupler off zzperformance along with a stage kit :-) and manifold thermo spacer... so it should be alll good

 

The chain tensioner was told to be the cause of the noise. They would fix it, and the problem would come back shortly after. people went as far as having engines replaced and it still didn't solve the problem.

 

REALLY???

so the coupler may in fact not change anything?

so how would you fix this timing chain issue?

 

He's talking about his Mini. The Cobalt should be fixed with the coupler.

 

ohh ok... thanx

 

I still don't understand why your friend just doesn't take his car to the dealer. If this is such a widespread issue you would think chevy would have implemented a revised part which would negate the need for the aftermarket part.

 

$41? what did you have to replace? just the check valve?

 

yes the tube going from the manifold to the booster, which has a built in check valve..

still gotta wait 3 weeks, but at least i know it's nothing significant. amen