Nice vids, nice looking cars

sorry if this is a lttle OT but hammerman if you buy only one mod get the crawford plenum and strut bar for 650$. It is the absolute best bang for the buck mod you can buy for this car. Even the best exhaust can't compare. My Z is much quicker with the plenum; no more flat spot after 5k rpm (+20 whp at redline!). It transforms the car. Those Crawford guys know their shit. I'll be taking my Z to the meet in trevose PA on oct 4 if anyone wants to check out the mod.

what does a plenum do??

I agree. If there is ANY other thing I do to my Z that is bolt on, it will be the plenum. I am happy with the grounding kit, K&N drop in, and Nismo exhaust. I'll admit, the exhaust was spendy. I love the look and sound, along with the added power. If I do get the plenum, I would want the one that has been cleaned up. Only thing is that it costs a lot more..

Sounds sort of like our RES (MMI) mod that we've been waiting on forever. :P

Ruf

From what I have read, the stock plenum on the Z does not deliver air to the front cylinders very well. The Crawford plenum fixes the airflow problem. I would have to go research to get the EXACT answer.

We didn't run side by side, but watch the videos and do the math. I should be quicker, although heavier i'm probably putting down 270+ to the wheels versus the Z at close to 240. Unfortunately they are starting to mod, DAMN THEM Let the H.P. wars continue !!

The only comparison I can make is from our best times at the drag strip.

ME / RED
+1.039 Reaction +.511
2.237 60 ft. 2.437
6.164 330 ft. 6.324
9.359 1/8 mi. e.t. 9.467
77.71 1/8 mi. mph 78.09
12.076 1000 ft. e.t. 12.097
14.377 1/4 mi. e.t. 14.409
97.65 1/4 mi. mph 97.97

haha yeah it aint pretty to look at....i love my frankensteined Z! lol. The polished one looks great but damn 1200$ is alot of xtra cash for just looks. I'll just keep frankenstein under the hood for now. beheh.

hit the nail on the head.

No bolt on SC Dennis ???

haha he might wanna wait on that a little while of you're referring to the procharger...there's some...uncertainty with that mod at the moment. ok i'll shut up about the z now.

Not at this time. Too many problems seem to come up with the popular S/C for the Z. (ProCharger) AND.. Stillen's requires a different hood. So, I'll be N/A for a while.

Yeah, first time ever at the track for me, only 2 runs, my first was a 14.9 so thanks to Mattg's advice, i lowered the tire pressure to 28 and brake torqued to 2,000 and i knocked off .5 on the second run. I realize what killed me was the 60 ft. time, if i ran a 2.0 or 2.1 i've been told that i would have been at 14.0 or less. Also, the track we ran at was 1,500 foot elevation and the correction is .3 - .4 so both Dennis and i were near 14.0. On a good night in Sacto at sea level i should run mid to upper 13s if i get the launch down. I'm gonna work on it

Nothin wrong with that !! You and Hammer should get the Plenum though, sounds to good to be true, 20 to the wheels for $650, RUN and get it

nice videos but i think i will stick with the N.O.S

Damn You !!!! J/K

no problem red rider just love N.O.S. its cheeper

Don't you have to send in your old plenum to get the replacement?

I know it's available for the G, but I don't think the plastic cover fits on properly with the replacement.

you lose the cover and the stock strut bar on the z. almost positive you lose your plastic cover on the g.

seroday, can you use an aftermarket strut bar instead? no strut bar is not good!

yeah you can, crawford sells one that fits for 200$ over the 450$ price for the plenum alone. I have both the plenum and the strut bar. The crawford strut bar has a mount that moves the entire bar in front of the plenum rather than over it where there is no longer any clearance. The new one doesn't look as cool as stock, but it's adjustable and lighter so works for me.

Let us say a modded Auto will do 14.4 to 14.6 ...now let us say a SC Auto will do 14.0 flat.

Is it worth paying at least $4500 for 0.4s in 1/4 mile? Maybe a nice NOS kit for like $1000 will do as good even better! My logic is this: While driving anywhere other WOT the gain from SC would be minimal as no need to go WOT anyway. if you are in a drag race you can spray as an alternative than having the SC.

Nashua.

Nashua... but it's the thrill of having the power at your beck and call...

I hear ya though .. $4500 plus $800.00 to have it installed... you're well over $5000.00 .. however, if it's between taking a hit on trading in your auto TypeS, vs. spending the $5000.00 to breathe some more life into what is actually a very cool car... then I'd rather invest the money into the typeS and run it to the ground over the next three years.

If you only want to go fast when you're at the track, then it's probably not worth it. Stick whith the bottle! My logic is this: I have no intrest in running 1/4 mile at a time. I run 800 miles a week, (3200 1/4 miles a week), boosting all day, every day. Yes, it's worth it!

You won't be sorry, but try this,.... S/C kit, including the ice box, transmition cooler, high boost pulley, Stone headers, Comptech springs and sways, self installed whith simple hand tools,.... and you might hit $5000.00.

nice 1/4 times in the Z,

red rider, i'd say since you got the toyos if you go to a decent prepped track you should be able to hook up great at 25psi in the front, just shhot for 60 foots 2.2 and less and you'll be DEEP into the 13's

Considering the jump from lowering to 28, i may try 25. Thanks for the advice.

red

it all maters on the track conditions, try 28 in front, if u can pull nice 60 foots at 28 keep it there, the lower u go the more ur gonna hurt your mph

remember to keep em at like 40-45 in the back

i know matt g break torques to 2000 but i get better 60' by launching it from a idle

just experiment i guess, i'm just trying to help ya out so u can prove to these peeps that the blower can put up some nice #'s

thats because your tires suck ass.

Getting the jump makes a difference on the 350z race.

I was mearly pointing out that the S/C didn't have that much more power for being F/I.

I would bet a 75 shot on a well tuned N/A ride would yield good gains, and possibly even a faster time. As you can stage the N20 power for your available traction.

IMO $4500 for the little FWHP gain isn't worth it.

I would expect $4500 of mods to RUN, not walk away...
especially with F/I


You for sure pulled away, but it was a slow walk.

I've been drag racing all sorts of cars for probably close to 10 years now.

I also have owned a bunch of Camaros & TA's. Which $4500 goes a lot further. This is probably why I don't see the practicality in it... speed vs. money anyway...

And /w CT headers... $5500...


Just my .02c feel free to give me my change back.

Haven't you made similar comments before?? So you don't feel the SC is worth the cost, OK. But all who have purchased it aren't concerned about ET’s. If they were they would be squeezing or driving something else.

But it is apparent that this is some misinformation about the SC. You stated " While driving anywhere other WOT the gain from SC would be minimal ", this couldn't be further from the truth. The gains at part throttle are significantly greater; this is probably the area of most significant impact. To get out in front of traffic does not require at or near WOT. 30% throttle is more than enough and allows you to shift early. In fact I rarely go WOT and normally shift before 4500 revs all while having plenty of power to get me to and just above the speed limit quickly.

Another useful point is the lack of need to downshift. I leave it in 6th gear on the highway and easily pass cars at a rate I would have previously had to move down a gear or two.

And once again, what good is nitrous on a road course or back roads; it is worthless. Although the CL/TL is not an ideal car for the auto-x or road course, some people may like to test its ability there. But more importantly, many of us like spirited back road driving. Being able to power out of a turn at a quicker pace is welcome.

So the SC might not be your cup of tea as you seem to be more focused on 1/4 mile ET's. But to those of us who have purchased it we wanted enhanced ability from the current vehicle; not an ET monster.

However, I will make one point about the strip times. I would agree that 0.5 seconds would be the expected improvement in ET. But people often overlook the 5 - 7 MPH improvement. Such as with the magazine test of the Comptech CL-S6SC against a stock 6-Speed. People slammed the low 14 second ET but failed to notice the concurrently run stock time in the mid-high 14's. This was again a 0.5 second difference. But the trap speed was 104 MPH to the stock 97 MPH; that is a 7 MPH increase which is significant!!

Actually, you deserve a refund...

I agree, $4500 goes quite a bit further on domestic iron and wish we had that same market potential. But we don't, so we expect to pay more for similar products.

The value is certainly subjective and not for everyone. But as mentioned above in the previous post, the enhanced everyday ability is where it appears most were looking for their value in the kit.

The perceived value is also not accounting for the nearly stock drivability and acceptance. Comptech did a great job here and something that is not seen on other kits for other makes.

you got any pics of the plenum installed?

Juker008

Curious... what's the S/C gain without the Headers?

Interesting enough, ModAddict dyno'd before he got headers. This was on a TL-S (automatic) with no other mods, 240hp / 224ft.lb SAE corrected.

So based on the numbers from stock vehicles this is about 40 - 45 WHP and the same in torque increase. Just about what would be expected with the mild boost being run.

Is there anybody with an NA auto dyno'ing > 240whp? (other than TypeR's 3.5)

If people are quibbling about cost differences.... THAT's what they should compare.

BTW... are you taking your car in for the timing-belt thingy?

Not that I am aware of. The 3.5L upgrade gave about 20WHP and the same in torque but was measured with headers. I would suspect that difference would be the same without headers.

Then with all things considered the cost between the 3.5L upgrade and the SC would not be too far apart. Add the power gain difference into the equation and things start to take shape.

Yea, I'll be taking it in once I get notice or stop by there to verify my VIN. My dealer has seen the blower so it isn't new to them. Plus, this is a recall so they can't refuse the work.

My best pull was 236hp.