When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
There's a couple popular tuning options with other smaller (and less reliable) tuners popping up weekly. The biggest names are JB4 and SXTH. The JB4 is a piggyback unit that tricks the ECU into thinking it's making less than stock boost, so it adjusts accordingly. The SXTH is a physical ECU swap. Both are making around the same HP numbers (300-310whp) but the JB4 seems to be the more popular option.
Although piggybacks are generally not thought of as being as reliable and foolproof as an ECU swap, the JB4 has been proven to be safe. One thing I really like about the JB4 is it has a Wi-Fi option so you can use your phone as a monitor/datalogger. I think with the SXTH ECU swap you have to get an EK1 as a monitor/datalogger, so the JB4 would be much less expensive and should have the same capabilities of running OTS maps as well as custom tuning available from independent tuners. Hearing from a Hyundai tech that neither are detectable when swapped back to stock, I think I'll definitely be doing one or the other at some point. Honestly at this point though the car is so fun as it is I'm not dying to get one just yet.
As far as my local N. Korea dealership goes, I have no clue. I have a service scheduled in Oct for them to troubleshoot a rattle, which I found out the fix from a Hyundai tech on a FB group but I'll let them perform it since that's what the warranty's for. I'll find out what the dealership experience is like then. I do know someone that works there has an identical Cyber Gray Elantra N, so that makes me feel better that they're familiar with the car.
Last edited by SuperTrooper169; 08-11-2022 at 09:11 AM.
Good information...
a turbo platform needs a tune, no doubt...they have to detune for the masses.
If you think it's fun now, imagine unlocking what I'd imagine is at least 60 whp for a grand or whatever the piggyback does.
If it's undetectable and removable, I would go that route for sure.
I originally had a piggyback on the S4 and when I was troubleshooting the dying fuel pump I tried driving it stock a few times and
it was brutal how slow it felt by comparison. Almost like it would have been better to not know what it was capable of.
Yep, I agree. I just need to justify the $700ish purchase with the wifey since I told her I didn't need to mod this car like I've done with my past cars. I mean, she totally didn't believe me and called me out on it the second I said it anyway, so...
You just make sense, bro. I would like to get a baseline run with the car down the 1320 before I start modding it. Gotta wait for the weather to cool down a bit before that happens.
You just make sense, bro. I would like to get a baseline run with the car down the 1320 before I start modding it. Gotta wait for the weather to cool down a bit before that happens.
I'm not even gonna look it up but you just made me realize 1320 (video) is probably how many feet in a quarter mile
Feel I've had ample time to feel the car out and fill y'all in on my likes and dislikes about the EN.
PROS
Incredibly Fun Handling
Strong Acceleration
Lovely Exhaust Sound
Impressive Fuel Efficiency
Great Gauge Cluster/Infotainment
CONS
Tight Seats/Interior Space
Firm Suspension
Cheap Hard Plastics
Just OK Stereo System
Questionable Gauge Accuracy
PROS
Incredibly Fun Handling
THIS is what I was wanting the most that the Charger could never provide. And while the Accord was a step in the right direction, it can't touch the N. It's got the best steering of any car I've owned, short of my '88 CRX Si. It has super fast turn in, feels like it's on rails, and it pulls so nicely of corners thanks to the e-limited slip. It makes me want to take backroads home instead of the main roads. It's hard to believe a $35,000 car can provide this much fun.
Strong Acceleration
It's quick enough to keep me entertained. The wet dual clutch is amazing. It has super fast shifts when you're on it but is very smooth around town and at low speeds, unlike the 10spd auto in the Accord. When you get on it in N mode it has very firm shifts which I absolutely love. It also gives nice blip downshifts which makes the already nice exhaust sound even better. The paddles are quick reacting and it holds gears to redline which makes manual mode a blast. The +10HP NGS button is an absolute childish Fast and Furious feature, but it is really fun and unique.
Lovely Exhaust Sound
I wasn't 100% sure I was going to love the exhaust when I first got it. It is still a 4 cylinder after all, but for a 4 banger it sounds awesome. The ability to change the exhaust sound at the hit of a button and fine tune the active noise is just so cool. When I want to drive it like a normal car I can, but as soon as I get on a twisty road or an on/off ramp I can make it pop and crackle and be obnoxious. I find Sport to be the best setting for me around town as it gives the loudness of Sport + (N mode) but gets rid of the pops, which are fun but can be over the top at certain RPMs and sound like gun shots lol.
Impressive Fuel Efficiency
It's rated 22 city/30 highway, which is pretty good considering the performance it offers. I'm averaging right at 28 MPG overall, which is better than I was anticipating. I've gotten 31 MPG on an all highway run in hilly Tennessee. It's dead even with what the Accord got. Even with mostly around town driving and going into N mode a lot and really ringing it out it gets high 20's. A lot of owners complain about the small gas tank, but I don't mind it since it's not as expensive each time I fill up.
Great Gauge Cluster/Infotainment
The gauge cluster and infotainment screens are really good. Like really, really good. It doesn't seem possible in such a reasonably priced car, but Hyundai knows what they're doing. The gauge cluster is very clear, and the drive mode animations and gauge cluster graphics are truly incredible. I wasn't sure how much I'd like the video game-esque nature of the cluster, but I really love it. And the infotainment screen, which includes the N mode readouts and cool radio graphics, are top notch.
CONS
Tight Seats/Interior Space
The seats look and feel amazing, and for spirited driving or normal short daily trips to the store they're phenomenal, but anything over 30 minutes and I start to feel the affects of the high bolstering. They do exactly what they're supposed to do which is hold you in tight, but on longer drives it's a little too confining and makes my outer thighs a little uncomfortable and restricted. Thankfully though the cushioning is really good and there's no discomfort in the bum area. The interior space in general is tight. It's very respectable for being a compact car, but compared to the Charger and Accord it's noticeably smaller. Even things like if I have a bottle in the cup holder I can't use my right hand to pull the e-brake, I have to use my left since there's not enough space to fit my hand in between the bottle and the handle. My kids are fine in the back now, but in a couple years they may not have enough leg room considering they take after me in their height.
Firm Suspension
While it does have an adjustable suspension, and normal mode is much more plush than Sport or Sport + (N mode), certain potholes or big expansion joints on the highway make an unnerving crash. It's not often that it happens, but when it does it's pretty rough. I almost wonder if it's the sound of the bump stops hitting verses the tires, but I'm not 100% sure. The 19 inch wheels with 35 series/stiff sidewalls of the Michelin P4S tires don't help the case at all I'm sure. Other than that occasional rough hit though, it does have a pretty decent ride for a performance car. I may get lightweight 18s in the future to help with the ride quality.
Cheap Hard Plastics This is one of those things that I knew I was getting into, because after all it's still a Hyundai Elantra, but they could have at least made the top of the door cards a little padded. They're hard grainy plastic and not very comfortable to rest your arm on. The plastic grab handle that separates the driver from the passenger is very, very cheap flimsy plastic and it creaks if you look at it wrong. The bottom door card plastic is even worse than the top, so I'm sure after a year or two will look very scratched up and crappy. The good news is everything else you touch or rest your hand/elbow on is very nice.
Just OK Stereo System
This one surprised me a bit because it's a BOSE and has a subwoofer, so I figured it'd at least be on par with the Charger's Boston Acoustics stereo system, but it's definitely not. It's not terrible, and in fact it's way, way better than the tinny POS stereo that was in the Accord, but it doesn't have anywhere near the depth of sound the Charger's system had. It was a little bit of a bummer it didn't come with wireless Apple CarPlay, but the wireless bungle I bought for under $100 has worked great and is tiny so it's tucked way under the storage area so you can't see it at all. It could be much worse, but I expected more from BOSE.
Questionable Gauge Accuracy
This is a weird one. The two gauges in question are the TPMS gauge readout and MPG calculator. The TMPS gauge reads about 3-5 PSI below actual PSI. I double checked my tires with a tire gauge and it's not even close. If I was relying on it for track days or something I'd be pissed, but since I don't it's not that big of a deal, just an oddity. The MPG calculator is 2 MPG over actual MPG, but only when it gets above 30 MPG. So if it says 28 or 29 MPG it's dead on, but if it says 33 MPG on in the cluster it's actually only 31. Not that big of a deal either, just weird.
Last edited by SuperTrooper169; 08-25-2022 at 04:59 PM.
I saw this video the day he uploaded it. It's really close between the two of them. Not that it matters that much, but the Charger has upgraded tires so it hooked really good compared to the stock tires. And I feel like launch control in the N isn't the best. But either way, they're very comparable performance-wise which is cool.
Questionable Gauge Accuracy
This is a weird one. The two gauges in question are the TPMS gauge readout and MPG calculator. The TMPS gauge reads about 3-5 PSI below actual PSI. I double checked my tires with a tire gauge and it's not even close. If I was relying on it for track days or something I'd be pissed, but since I don't it's not that big of a deal, just an oddity. The MPG calculator is 2 MPG over actual MPG, but only when it gets above 30 MPG. So if it says 28 or 29 MPG it's dead on, but if it says 33 MPG on in the cluster it's actually only 31. Not that big of a deal either, just weird.
Are they all similarly 3-5psi low or is it just one or two wheels? If they're all similarly low, I'd take it in to the dealership and see what they have to say. Might be something messed up in the software's interpretation of the data being received from the sensor.
Car looks fantastic though, that thing doesn't need new wheels at all. While they appear to be an epic PITA to clean, they look fucking fantastic.
Are they all similarly 3-5psi low or is it just one or two wheels? If they're all similarly low, I'd take it in to the dealership and see what they have to say. Might be something messed up in the software's interpretation of the data being received from the sensor.
Car looks fantastic though, that thing doesn't need new wheels at all. While they appear to be an epic PITA to clean, they look fucking fantastic.
It's all four readouts. They're consistent in what they display, just below actual PSI. I'm sure it is a software issue. Or maybe there's a learning procedure that wasn't done. Not sure. I'll have them check it out when I go for my first oil change.
I do love the wheel design despite being a giant PITA to clean lol. I will probably replace the Michelin Pilot Sport 4Ss with a tire with a softer sidewall when their due. Maybe something like Continental DWS06s. That might be enough to soften the ride over rough roads.
Does the car use actual TPMS sensors in the valve stems or is it wheel speed sensor based? If the latter, there may be a menu option to set the correct pressure.
Does the car use actual TPMS sensors in the valve stems or is it wheel speed sensor based? If the latter, there may be a menu option to set the correct pressure.
According to the Goog, it's valve stem based but there should still be a reset/relearn option to fix that issue.
As an alternate to the DWS, I've really liked the Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ on our Flex. AS4 is the current model, I believe. Excellent in heavy rain, and long life too.
As an alternate to the DWS, I've really liked the Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ on our Flex. AS4 is the current model, I believe. Excellent in heavy rain, and long life too.
Good to know. I'll have to check those out too when the time comes. I drive pretty conservatively overall though, so I'm hoping the P4Ss will last at least a couple years.
I was going to put the AS3+ on the Merc, and on the Malibu, but Potenza RE980AS & Yokohama YK740GTX [Discount Tire exclusive] won out on price, respectively.
The RE980AS was a good tire too, I got ~30k out of them & it was a dramatic improvement over the Conti runflats
For the 'Bu, wasn't worth the extra $300 for the Michelin for an econo-shitbox
Maybe Jin can wrap you some alcantara on those hard plastic spots? Might be a great solution.
You're very welcome! I wanted to get my thoughts down as they've been bouncing around in my head for a while now. Some days I'm absolutely in love with the car, then others I wonder if I need something a little bigger and a little less Fast & Furious. I'll always be in search of the perfect car.
There's actually OEM Alcantara pieces for the e-brake and shifter, but I'm not 100% sure I want to get them. The shifter does look pretty sweet. The top of the door cards would be so nice to have wrapped, but I've seen the grab handle wrapped and I just don't like it. I sort of looks out of place no matter what material it's got. It's one of a few odd design choices the Hyundai team made in the interior.
Long rant about my first Hyundai service experience (honestly saw this coming)
My salesman had scheduled my first complimentary oil change 3 months out from when I purchased the car. Although I bought the car from them I wasn't planning on having them service my car since there's a closer Hyundai dealership around the corner from my house, but since it was already scheduled and most Hyundai dealerships are scheduled out months I decided to go ahead and bring it down there. My car just hit 4,000 miles and i figured it'd be a good thing to have the first oil change done early anyway.
The service advisor who approached me was complimenting the car saying how he'd never seen that color before and he really liked the red accents. It was pretty apparent to me he had never seen an Elantra N before and didn't know anything about it. I made sure to double check with him that they would only use full synthetic as is recommended in the manual and he said yes they would. Cool. 15 minutes later he called me from the waiting room. He asked me to sign the invoice and I noticed on it that it said 5 qts Quaker 0w20. The manual and engine oil cap both say 0w30 and and the manual and a sticker inside the engine compartment say Shell Helix recommended. I brought it up to him and asked why they used the wrong weight and type of oil. He looked stumped and went over to the service manager to ask.
The service manager calls me over and shows me on his screen that it says 0w20, 0w30 and 5w30 are acceptable oils to use. This is not what my manual says. He then tries telling me that the Elantra N doesn't have some type of bearing that he couldn't remember the name of that is supposed to help at start up, so the 0w20 would compensate for that. Of course I knew he was talking out of his arse at this point. I once again explained that the manual states 0w30 only and he said that 0w30 is like $28 a quart and that's another reason they don't use it. I brought up the powertrain warranty and he said don't worry it'll be covered even though it's a different weight oil. He wasn't budging and I didn't want to argue with him, so I left feeling uneasy about it.
I get home and explain what happened on an Elantra N FB group I'm on and a member who's a Hyundai service tech said the service manager was likely looking up a different Elantra model that lists those as acceptable oils. He reaffirmed the Elantra N should only use 0w30. He even sent screen shots of his Hyundai service software confirming that. Ugh. So I decided to call Hyundai Customer Care and see if they could help. The Hyundai Customer Care rep looks it up in her online manual and says the same thing the dealership said, that it can take 0w20, 0w30 or 5w30. WTH? So I ask what page she's reading it from and she says page 2-11, while I read back to her mine which states 0w30 only on page 2-13. So the Elantra N manuals we were looking at didn't match. She advised me to call a different dealership to see what they have in their system but reminded me that all Hyundai dealerships are independantly owned so they may have different standards. Oh that's great to know.
I called my local Hyundai dealership service department and they essentially confirmed that they will use any of the three oils that are readily available to them, but in general she advises her team to use what it says on the engine oil cap. I asked her in her opinion in they used 0w20 simply because it's less expensive and she confirmed yes. I asked ok, if I bring my car down to your dealership next time for an oil change, would you put 0w20 in or 0w30 and she said "if they had 0w30" they'd put it in, but it's what's available to them at the time. Yikes.
So, after all that I decided to just drain the 0w20 and put in Pennzoil 0w30 myself (I couldn't find Shell Helix anywhere, even online). And while had it up on jack stands I went ahead and rotated those expensive tires because that wasn't done either. It might seem like I'm being overly anal about the oil weight, but if you know what the numbers mean then you'd agree that when driving the car at the limits and it says it only takes 0w30, then that 30 becomes really important to protect the internals from damage. I'm not tracking my car yet, but I do have plans to and don't want to take the chance of it not meeting that requirement for protection if I'm romping on it.
Lesson learned -- I will take it down the street next time, hope they use 0w30, and if they don't I'll drain and change myself at least I got a new oil filter out of the deal. It's crazy to me think the dealership would change the specs of the oil weight just to save some money, and it seems to be confirmed and OK'd by Hyundai corporate. I still don't know whether to think that's the reality or they still don't understand it's a completely new and different model from the other Elantra trims.
Draining and refilling isn't that big of a deal. I was planning on doing it myself anyway with whatever car I purchased, but it was sort of nice to think I don't have to do anything for 3 years, 36,000 miles. I obviously don't trust them now though so that free benefit is moot I guess.
At the end of the day Hyundai and their business model and the type of people it attract are apparent.
It sucks, especially since you're happy with the car.
If it's any consolation, I think you would have this experience anywhere you go now no matter the brand.
We live in a throwaway society where people would rather take shortcuts and risk a fix they would be happy
to have back under manufacturer paid repair work than to do what was stipulated in the first place.
With that said, that's why I buy old shit cars and do my own barefoot shit work on them.
08-11-2022, 09:08 AM
