Shoofin's Lotus Exige S Thread [Update - P.11]
#365
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#366
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ECU sent out yesterday to California, they got it today, will tune it tomorrow and send it to me by Friday. Should be back on the ground and ready to drive on Friday!
So far we started routing the auxiliary air ducts, installed the airbox and changed the pulley. Not much else I can do until I get the ECU back, because the IC had to be removed to get to the ECU.
![](https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7394/9567237080_993853b7bc_b.jpg)
So far we started routing the auxiliary air ducts, installed the airbox and changed the pulley. Not much else I can do until I get the ECU back, because the IC had to be removed to get to the ECU.
![](https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7394/9567237080_993853b7bc_b.jpg)
![](https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7427/9567237318_29180e5595_b.jpg)
Last edited by Shoofin; 08-21-2013 at 06:26 PM.
#367
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^^^
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Looking good. How much power will you gain from the mods?
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#378
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Ooh
I love that orange, excellent choice!
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I love that orange, excellent choice!
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#379
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Few hiccups:
When driving and during natural movement of the engine, the IC is hitting the OEM engine cover lifting rod...Included is a bracket that moves the rod a little higher to clear the Intercooler. I added the extension you included in the kit...the rod doesn't hit when the car is idling, HOWEVER when the car & engine is moving (and it moves a LOT), I noticed a small chip in the paint of the intercooler. I removed the rod and just ordered a lighter prop rod that, like a hood prop rod, you physically move out of the way and down, so it isn't above the engine like the OEM rod. Sucks and is a little less convenient, but at least I won't have to worry about that anymore. I got some touch up paint from the shop that painted it, so I'll touch it up and that'll be done. It's a small chip, although annoying, not such a big deal.
Between 5500-5700 RPM, in the back of the heat shield, just below the IC shroud, you're hearing an annoying vibration, that when pushing down on the corners of the shield, it went away. I'll have to either add some foam there, or bend the shield down a little so it doesn't vibrate. I'll see what I can do to cure that.
Lastly, there are times that the car isn't registering me pushing on the throttle. I usually feather the throttle when taking off from a stand still, and the first time I sat in the seat to take it for a test drive, it stalled because I didn't push enough on the gas. I didn't go very far or very long, but a few times in between shifts (2-3), I would already be in 3rd and off the clutch and on the gas, and the car would jump forward because it didn't register my throttle input for a second and then shoved me back into my seat after I gave it a little more throttle.
The last thing I am told is part of the ECU's learning process, and hope it will go away fast, because it's pretty damn annoying.
Other than that, I didn't get to go very far with it, but it definitely feels different. I'll try to drive it a little more and give you my impressions in the coming week or 2.
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yeah baby !!!!
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#387
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Cribbed from a Lotus forum....
What has 8 wheels and weighs less than a GT-R?
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2 Lotus Exiges!
![](http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/attachments/f3/281041d1377731476-what-has-8-wheels-weighs-less-than-gtr-scaleexiges.jpg)
What has 8 wheels and weighs less than a GT-R?
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2 Lotus Exiges!
![](http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/attachments/f3/281041d1377731476-what-has-8-wheels-weighs-less-than-gtr-scaleexiges.jpg)
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#388
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<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/cmRED9IcqnM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Still haven't had the chance to do get a good clip of the car running through the gears at full throttle. Got this the other day though... It's about 9 seconds long, which leads me to think, in the 9 seconds, the first second of the video i wasn't really moving, and when I accidentally tapped the screen and stopped the recording, I was at about 90mph and still pulling hard. 100 in 10 seconds or less? Maybe!
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#390
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Quick update:
Still having the same issues I am having up in post 379:
I attempted to drill a few holes in the intercooler heat shield to change the harmonics - with some success. It's not happening at 5500 RPM anymore, it's now happening at 4k and again at 6k RPM. I decided to get a carbon fiber heat shield in hopes that the different material that CF is made up of will eliminate the vibration. I'll also add some heat foil underneath to prevent any problems. It's made to order, and I ordered it almost a month ago, so I should see it soon.
On the tune - when the car is moving, it's moving! The added power is awesome....crazy....intoxicating...
BUT the quirks are REALLY annoying. The company I got the tune from acknowledges the problem and are currently re-calibrating it, so they should have a revised tune sometime in the winter.
Main problems with the tune: The lighter flywheel I have added when I changed the clutch causes the car to stall when coming off the clutch at high revs (when holding the clutch down for longer than a second - say to rapidly decelerate). As long as you're shifting in and out of gears, it's fine, though. It's mostly noticed when panic braking or coming off the clutch at high revs to a stop. The only temporary solution is to keep it in gear until very low speed and then clutch in and neutral.
When the car is cold, the ECU and throttle (by wire) input appears normal. Once the car warms up, there is a really annoying delay on initial throttle input. Coming off the line, I end up revving to like 4k like a rookie because anything less and I'll stall out because it's not receiving the throttle input. If you listen carefully to the video I posted above, you can hear in between gears the delay. Really, Really Really annoying.
2 solutions:
I wait until the winter, send my ECU back to the company and have them re-flash it (free, of course) with the re-calibrated tune, which will hopefully solve the problem.
OR
I send them my ECU to re-flash to a 300hp tune (free as well), BUT I would have to change my pulley again. Stock is 3.1", the 275 tune gave me a 3.0", and this would get me to 2.9", along with (RC 550cc) Injectors. I would have to buy the pulley and injectors, though. I am leaning towards doing this, because I was planning on replacing my fuel pump (which is recommended anyway, and I have a higher volume one, just haven't installed it yet), along with the injectors anyway, so I will more than likely be going this route.
Last problem I've been having is that in panic braking situations (I'm talking like "OH SHIT" situations), the car doesn't stop with the urgency that you would expect it to stop. Under normal braking, you don't notice any problems with the brakes. I had at least 50% pad life left, and didn't think that could be the problem. After speaking to a few people, who confirmed the pads are the problem, replaced them with a set of CL RC6E - Endurance pads.
![](http://www.sector111.com/images/products/performance/brake_bits/cl_brakes/CLmed.jpg)
They stop a little more aggressively than the OEM feel, but not in an annoying way. I was expecting a lot of brake squeal, and put as much "disc brake quiet" as I thought was needed, but it still squeals like a fother mucker. I got used to it, and don't mind it that much #becauseracecar![Naughty](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
To my disbelief, when removing the rear pads, saw this on one corner - mind you, the car and pads were dry, and I drove at least a few hundred miles in dry conditions - this is what I saw:
This is how much meat I had:
![](https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5481/10972677314_15405e1e43_c.jpg)
And this was the moneyshot:![what](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/what.gif)
![](https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5528/10972849324_842e5360c3_c.jpg)
Since I've replaced the pads, the car stops, LIKE NOW. So it solved the problem, and I am satisfied with it's braking performance now.
Still having the same issues I am having up in post 379:
Few hiccups:
When driving and during natural movement of the engine, the IC is hitting the OEM engine cover lifting rod...Included is a bracket that moves the rod a little higher to clear the Intercooler. I added the extension you included in the kit...the rod doesn't hit when the car is idling, HOWEVER when the car & engine is moving (and it moves a LOT), I noticed a small chip in the paint of the intercooler. I removed the rod and just ordered a lighter prop rod that, like a hood prop rod, you physically move out of the way and down, so it isn't above the engine like the OEM rod. Sucks and is a little less convenient, but at least I won't have to worry about that anymore. I got some touch up paint from the shop that painted it, so I'll touch it up and that'll be done. It's a small chip, although annoying, not such a big deal.
Between 5500-5700 RPM, in the back of the heat shield, just below the IC shroud, you're hearing an annoying vibration, that when pushing down on the corners of the shield, it went away. I'll have to either add some foam there, or bend the shield down a little so it doesn't vibrate. I'll see what I can do to cure that.
Lastly, there are times that the car isn't registering me pushing on the throttle. I usually feather the throttle when taking off from a stand still, and the first time I sat in the seat to take it for a test drive, it stalled because I didn't push enough on the gas. I didn't go very far or very long, but a few times in between shifts (2-3), I would already be in 3rd and off the clutch and on the gas, and the car would jump forward because it didn't register my throttle input for a second and then shoved me back into my seat after I gave it a little more throttle.
When driving and during natural movement of the engine, the IC is hitting the OEM engine cover lifting rod...Included is a bracket that moves the rod a little higher to clear the Intercooler. I added the extension you included in the kit...the rod doesn't hit when the car is idling, HOWEVER when the car & engine is moving (and it moves a LOT), I noticed a small chip in the paint of the intercooler. I removed the rod and just ordered a lighter prop rod that, like a hood prop rod, you physically move out of the way and down, so it isn't above the engine like the OEM rod. Sucks and is a little less convenient, but at least I won't have to worry about that anymore. I got some touch up paint from the shop that painted it, so I'll touch it up and that'll be done. It's a small chip, although annoying, not such a big deal.
Between 5500-5700 RPM, in the back of the heat shield, just below the IC shroud, you're hearing an annoying vibration, that when pushing down on the corners of the shield, it went away. I'll have to either add some foam there, or bend the shield down a little so it doesn't vibrate. I'll see what I can do to cure that.
Lastly, there are times that the car isn't registering me pushing on the throttle. I usually feather the throttle when taking off from a stand still, and the first time I sat in the seat to take it for a test drive, it stalled because I didn't push enough on the gas. I didn't go very far or very long, but a few times in between shifts (2-3), I would already be in 3rd and off the clutch and on the gas, and the car would jump forward because it didn't register my throttle input for a second and then shoved me back into my seat after I gave it a little more throttle.
On the tune - when the car is moving, it's moving! The added power is awesome....crazy....intoxicating...
![Ecstatic](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/ecstatic.gif)
Main problems with the tune: The lighter flywheel I have added when I changed the clutch causes the car to stall when coming off the clutch at high revs (when holding the clutch down for longer than a second - say to rapidly decelerate). As long as you're shifting in and out of gears, it's fine, though. It's mostly noticed when panic braking or coming off the clutch at high revs to a stop. The only temporary solution is to keep it in gear until very low speed and then clutch in and neutral.
When the car is cold, the ECU and throttle (by wire) input appears normal. Once the car warms up, there is a really annoying delay on initial throttle input. Coming off the line, I end up revving to like 4k like a rookie because anything less and I'll stall out because it's not receiving the throttle input. If you listen carefully to the video I posted above, you can hear in between gears the delay. Really, Really Really annoying.
2 solutions:
I wait until the winter, send my ECU back to the company and have them re-flash it (free, of course) with the re-calibrated tune, which will hopefully solve the problem.
OR
I send them my ECU to re-flash to a 300hp tune (free as well), BUT I would have to change my pulley again. Stock is 3.1", the 275 tune gave me a 3.0", and this would get me to 2.9", along with (RC 550cc) Injectors. I would have to buy the pulley and injectors, though. I am leaning towards doing this, because I was planning on replacing my fuel pump (which is recommended anyway, and I have a higher volume one, just haven't installed it yet), along with the injectors anyway, so I will more than likely be going this route.
Last problem I've been having is that in panic braking situations (I'm talking like "OH SHIT" situations), the car doesn't stop with the urgency that you would expect it to stop. Under normal braking, you don't notice any problems with the brakes. I had at least 50% pad life left, and didn't think that could be the problem. After speaking to a few people, who confirmed the pads are the problem, replaced them with a set of CL RC6E - Endurance pads.
![](http://www.sector111.com/images/products/performance/brake_bits/cl_brakes/CLmed.jpg)
They stop a little more aggressively than the OEM feel, but not in an annoying way. I was expecting a lot of brake squeal, and put as much "disc brake quiet" as I thought was needed, but it still squeals like a fother mucker. I got used to it, and don't mind it that much #becauseracecar
![Naughty](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
To my disbelief, when removing the rear pads, saw this on one corner - mind you, the car and pads were dry, and I drove at least a few hundred miles in dry conditions - this is what I saw:
This is how much meat I had:
![](https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5481/10972677314_15405e1e43_c.jpg)
And this was the moneyshot:
![what](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/what.gif)
![](https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5528/10972849324_842e5360c3_c.jpg)
Since I've replaced the pads, the car stops, LIKE NOW. So it solved the problem, and I am satisfied with it's braking performance now.
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looks SICK....didnt know am gonna dig the stripe sooo much....and
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#397
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Awesome progress Eddie
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Wow, awesome progress! I'm really loving the primary color. Kinda reminds me of Carbon Bronze Pearl on the 3G TL. ![Tomato](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/tomato.gif)
Keep it up! If you posted before, my mistake, but what power numbers are you aiming for?
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Keep it up! If you posted before, my mistake, but what power numbers are you aiming for?