LOL...the ONLY thud I thought I heard was going over a speed bump.
I did not think I heard that before ever either...but next speed bump I heard nothing.
So I was thinking maybe it's cause I was trying to listen for it.

Maybe it's the rear bottoming out and not being blown...remember, spring determines height etc...blown would just affect rebound. Maybe the top 3 bolts have somehow come slightly loose and are creating a small gap that thuds?

 

I can feel the thud though so it isn't only just a sound. It is like the car is slamming down and bottoming out.

 

I'd love to get a closer look at your rear end.

 

come check it out tonight then

 

skype?


Hmmm...so you think you're bottoming out then, huh...
I'm so against going coils on this car...I'm sure they can ride great...
but I've never had a lowered car taht rode like a Cadillac.

 

Question Jason...
my hatch open button doesn't work from inside the car if the car is on...doesn't matter if it's drive or park or anything...turn off car, it works.
I have to either use the FOB, or get out and press it myself at the door.

I can't figure out if it did that before, or if it's a safety feature?!

 

That's for when you change the pulley size on the supercharger. Once you do that, the hatch open button will work... the hatch essentially acts as a giant spoiler to increase downforce. Themoreyouknow.

 

LOL...
no new pulleys!

 

 

I am pretty certain I can open mine with the car running and it is in park. Obviously for safety you can't while driving. I can't test it right now cause the car is at the dealer looking into my steering/alignment issue I am having. Scared that they have it and will abuse it on a test drive trying to find the issue.

 

Damn, I'll have to read up on it, man...it seems like it's not normal for it to not open when I have the car in park though.
I wish you luck at the dealership, keep me posted!

 

Probably a programmable setting like the door lock in Drive vs. 10 mph or whatever.

Try

 

Better yet, you should go make a post on ctsvagonzine.com and ask them "y not my hatc open close from insid but do from key?"

 

are you fucking stalking me?
I did!

 

Yes. Yes I am.

In fact, just last night WagonJr and I were building a new Hot Wheels road and I made your neighborhood. Since we don't have a Vagon and couldn't find the 510 wagon, I had to substitute this dope-AF '70 Celica:

 

Oh I forgot to tell you. Got the car back and checked. Yes I can open the hatch with the car running in park.

On the dealer front. My steer wheel alignment issue appears to be a bad steering wheel position sensor. It's going to cost me $415 parts and labor to have it replaced. They didn't have it in stock so they had to order it. It's getting done either Thursday or next Monday depending on my work schedule. If it is like the 1st gen you have to take apart and disconnect the steering column and that goes a little past what I feel comfortable with so just letting them do it.

Unfortunately that is probably going to push back my timeline for picking up springs for the wagon now. .

At least that should mean one of my two problems are resolved.

 

can confirm, accurate.

 

*I* drew that, smartass.

 

so... a 2 year old?

 

you fuckers...
that's hilarious...burnouts and all!
CuJoe...
you were onto something, I went and messed with my settings for the car being on...and got it to open with the car on. Sometimes it's something stupid but you were spot on.


Thanks Jason...not the worst, but that does fkng suck...why would that fail!?! Don't you baby that thing?
Glad you are tackling issues one at a time...that feels good to keep her perfect!

 

The stance looks great, Jeremy! It's hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like the front could come down some more. Hopefully the springs settle and you won't have to cut them. Wheel spacers will complete the look.

Did you trim the bump stops on the shocks? That could be the thud you're hearing when going over speed bumps if you didn't.

 

I did sir...ctsvowners forum is very helpful and they said it's a must to avoid squeaks!
I only heard it once and the more I think about it, it was the FIRST time I went over a speed bump after lower, I'm wondering if it was just the weight of the spring/rubber top and bottom mount kinda just finding their place. Rears are spring alone in a cup assembly...if that makes sense.


I'm on it, Adam...if by this weekend front didn't come down any more...I'll be doing 5" off the front spring.
Thank you btw!

 

I love the look of that red vagon The stance is just so perfect.

 

wowzers man looks killer..... def take the front down a cunt hair more, but a ball hair would be too much lol

 

That *must* be Js neighborhood... the burnouts are not even on the road, but on the grassy section. Makes sense, judging by his photoshoot locales

Also, the Olympic rings are too perfect. You're doing it all wrong. I will give you credit with the Celica though. Those things are gangster

 

The attention to detail is astounding.

10/10.

 

Attention to detail you say...

8======D

 

that looks a little long

Yeah, I'm gonna wait until the weekend and see where it ends up...it already got a little lower over the last 2 days.
We'll see...

a half coil could work.

 

Has anyone suggested cutting springs yet??

 

I think J should shave his tires down to the wire to get that extra .25"

 

All in the "D"-etails

 

No shaving!

 

Well, that didn't last long...
word of advice fellas...if you want and EVEN drop...go ahead and cut those 5" off the front springs. I had a tight finger gap in the back and 2 fingers up front...I know I only let it settle for 2 days but I know it wasn't gonna come down another quarter inch on it's own.

So I went at it...it also made me realize that I think I put the driver side spring in backward...not upside down but backward. Because with the 2 bottom bolts, you can either face the sticker on the shock in, or out...well, I pulled the driver side one out before looking how it was from factory...so I checked passenger side and it was facing out. I did facing out on both sides but in doing so...that left the driver side bottom perch on the outside, and the passenger one on the inside. That seems like it could account for a half inch difference since where the lower portion of the spring sits sits higher on the outside. (hope that makes sense)...so I took a closer look at the dirt pattern that wouldn't wipe off easily and sure enough, they were dirty on opposite sides so both stickers couldn't have been facing out.

Anyway...no biggy, swapped it. Another thing I noticed was when you cut the spring and the tophat is turned to accommodate it, it makes the dust sleeve kinda sit off center...no noises to speak of and it seems to be doing it's job so all is well.

Measured the 5"...also moved the spring plastic/rubber sleeve down 5" too to make sure the contact point would be the same






oh and also...make sure you don't have debris in that upper portion...probably a good idea to blow it out WHILE the shock is out...but I didn't...so I vacuumed it and then used tweezers to remove the rocks


I'll snag some better shots some time this weekend...plus, it'll settle mor

 

Well done, my friend. The idea of cutting springs is alarming at first .. But thinking about it, 5" off the spring isn't going to hurt anything.

You did what you had to do.

 

Thanks T...at least I didn't cut the OEM springs!

 

Horree smokes.. I knew J was going to circumcise..

 

The funny thing was... knew it too...
but I had to at least SEE if I was mature enough to not cut springs since it's much harder to UNcut springs.

 

I beg to differ

 

JB weld and duct tape

 

or as you tell yer lady friends.. around 7 inches