UnsanePyro

I'm trying to find myself a beater to start commuting to school in, I want to stop putting such huge milage on my TL. It's a 97, and I'm passing 146,000 this week, a little over 16,000/year. I know the car can handle it, but I'd really like to cut down on it a bit.

So I'm looking for something under $1,500 or so, and want it to be RWD, I want something that is relatively fun to drive. I've looked into a couple older E30 BMW 3 series, and a couple old Volvo 240s (turbo ).

Does anyone else have suggestions?

I'd really like to go with something RWD, or at least a fun to drive FWD car.

I'm hoping it will cut down the insurance a bit too, insuring me as a primary driver on the beater, and the TL as a weekend car or whatever.

FastAcura

Then you would have two beaters

I don't know what you can get for that much, maybe a really old cavalier or something. Even beat up civics with high milage cost that much these days. I wouldn't buy a BMW or Volvo unless you wanna put money into it.

Bdog

Nissan 240SX is the car to get. If you find one locally you can get a good deal on one, then you are ready for a SR20DE swap.

CL Platano

word an 90 240 SX ...

KilroyR1

Old pickup? I have a 1989 Chevy S-10 RWD I bought 5 years ago for $600. In five years, I've put about $250 bucks into the thing. I drive it when it snows (I pile snow in the bed), to Home Depot, into the city (bad roads) and it's an extra car whenever another car is getting service.

Having a beater is great.

Bdog

The only thing about 240SX's is a 5 speed will cost you more than an auto. Here are two in your area.

5 speed
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...=en&cardist=98

Auto
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...g=en&cardist=9

BEETROOT

You're looking for a beater to backup a car w/ 146k? I'd throw that 1500 in a savings account to use for a down payment when the TL dies.

virtualbong

It really isn't worth getting a winter beater for your car. Just keep driving it and when you're out of college, you can have enough saved to purchase something nicer. Your car will last way past 200,000 miles.

iTimmy

That's good advice

bigman

you can get an old 240sx, but people know that the car is in style, and are upping their prices. Also an older 300zx can be had for cheap. Why not get an old school caprice and drop a vette motor in there.

65 Fury Convert

Best advice so far.

UnsanePyro

The TL has quite a few years left on it, especially if I only drive it half as much. It's not one of the second gen's that has a dead transmission all the time :x There are a few members over 200,000 miles on theirs. Even driving 15,000/year, it should last me at least 3 more years.

Buying a car and dropping a new motor into it isn't quite what I had in mind, especially for $1500.

UnsanePyro

I should really specify some more. I'm going to be going to New England Tech starting in January, and I will be able to bring in my car/my family's cars to work on for free (body or mechanical). If needed, I'd like to be able to leave my car there, and still have something to commute in. Something that is also fun to drive/a project would be cool to have.

Bdog

^^

I don't think you are going to get rwd and fun for $1500. You could probably get an old BMW or Volvo, but they are going to be way underpowered for "fun driving." An E30 1984-1985 BMW 318i - 1.8 L had 101 hp and a 325 2.7 L had 121 hp + high miles = not much fun of a car. Insurance will be higher for your age than a Nissan or Mazda also on an old busted BMW.

I would still get a 240SX or maybe an RX7, the SX will be easier and less expensive to work on and more reliable of anything listed above. As for a project even though you say you don't want an engine swap add a turbo or do the SR20DE (250hp) swap and you will have a fun car to drive.

supraken

iTrader: (1)

Might be able to pick up a ~90 MR2... but a RWD at that price, you might end up putting a lot more money into it than you anticipated...

Stapler

"an e30 2.7l had 121 hp" true.. the 325e's did, but the 325i's were more like 170.

You could even just buy a 2.7 l one and put a 325 computer and head in/on it. More than what you may want to do though. Also to make a old high miles 20 year old bmw feel good to drive, you will probably be putting new half shafts in the back, drive shaft, and all sorts of steering joints that are worn out. Otherwise they are usually akin to driving a rattle trap. Also a number of electrical components in the engine will need work, idle controll valve.. ect. Thats a good amount of work/money. Either that or buy a well maintained one.. but your looking at 3-4k there. I think it would have been a better option 5 years ago, but i mean, the cars are 20 years old now. Things break, even on the machines that were made to be tanks from the 80's.


As for the volvo, once i went to advise my uncle on getting a 1992 740 wagon with 100k on it. The engine had a problem that the dealer couldn't track down. It seems that every electrical part in the car pretty much give it the same symptom. Also the 92 computer system didn't have a self diagnoses thing like todays cars. So he got it for 800 bucks, and I took a long shot and put a 75 dollar coil in it. Worked fine, Runs like a top till this day. Great beater with all the new parts the dealer put in trying to find the problem. So mabee you can i dunno, still find a good deal.

mclarenf3387

WTF are you talking about? We have 2 E30s in my family, one with 170K miles, neither need any of that stuff. On our black 325 is all we did was a suspension (eibach/bilstein) and it handles like its on rails. And aside from regular maintnence, the engines have been fine.
Yeah, the parts are a bit costly, and labor is insane if you don't do it yourself, but I have no clue where your getting that info.

Deity711

I was going to say an older Volvo before I walked in here. Considered buying one myself. Loved the look of the old cars since I was a kid.

demons rage

iTrader: (1)

definatly save up for a newer car instead of buying a beater... the first gen is built nice and all, but when a car is like 11+ years old... you gotta do some major work on the engine and tranny to keep it alive...

Stapler

I'm speaking from having had a 528e .. with the basically same m20 engine in it, maintaining my friends 325i, and another friends 525i all m20's. I was just stating that.. at least around here, if you spend 1500 bucks on a 325, it's gonna be a beat up bucket. If you want one that has been cared for it's 3k or so. Especially a 325i rather that e.

I agree that bmw's.. when kept up are great, I'm just saying that you can't expect everything to be kept up to date on the low end of the price spectrum, at least that is what I have run into.

mclarenf3387

Thats somewhat true of the price range, although we got ours for a steal and it was in great shape . Generally though those parts shouldn't be a problem. If anything the bushings may get worn out, but axles should not start going.

Although if you want a project, get a 318 then drop an S14 motor into it.

Although the best advice so far has been Beets. Save the money, its gonna be a pain to own and maintain two cars plus its an extra car to pay insurance on. The TL should last till your done with college, at that point you'll probably be in a better position to afford a nice car.

dallison

don't buy a beater

Mizouse

my friend got a 1990 miata for 900 bux those are rwd and pretty fun to drive at least in the mountains.

AS3.0CL

my cousin went to New England Tech. him and one other person was chosen by BMW in the North east to become mechanics for them and they paid for thier training at BMW's own school in New Jersey. Now he works at Inskip and drives an E36 M3 with some things in it, wicked fast.

in all honesty, drive the TL and save up for something nicer later on.

BTW i think i may have seen u around RI.

UnsanePyro

Bdog - True that the HP is low, but they could also be making 170 in TQ by 3200 RPM from what I hear.

AS3.0CL - What does your CL look like? You going to school here? Are you on FYC? Where in RI? Hit me up on AIM.

Not having a car to commute in if I leave mine at school is going to be a pain in the ass. I'm pretty set on getting something so it doesn't become an issue.

I should have specified sooner and not called it a beater, I feel like I'm getting some weird advice here.

AS3.0CL

AIM the same as name on here??. and yea my CL is up for sale, had it for over a year and a half and kind of ran into a QX4, so now i'm driving that. i'm in coventry but i'm always in warwick on Rt2. my AIM is A30CLS. the main purpose for me selling the CL is that i will most likely be commuting in college and i stumbled upon the QX4. but if i didn't i would still have the CL. it was all just timing i guess, kinda sucky timing.

UnsanePyro

Nope, aim is LmprisonedMind

SodaLuvr

Heard that some early 80s Corollas are RWD...dunno for sure though.

UnsanePyro

Yeah, some are, but from what I have heard/seen, they are pretty rare.

I like the avatar, reminds me of my Volvo (blew the rear main seal on the highway).

demolition_x

dude perfect car is a volvo. get a 740 turbo stick. they can be found for cheap late 80's early 90's. theres alot of these thing around and they get great gas mileage and run for ever. kida at my school had one from the 80's had well over 500k on the clock. nothing major done to it.

i have seen 740's with a little computer work beat mustang gt's

Mizouse

they arnt arnt that rare, but alot of teenagers and punks are picking them up cause of the whole initial D drifting thing. and because of that the price of them have been going up, my friend said he wouldve been able to sell his for about 2 to 3000 dollars.

ohh yea, ive driven one, they're slow, you need to do alot of work to them to make them driveable too cause alot of them are in bad condition and if you want better performance even more $$

Acura2.3CL

how bout a 91 ford mustang 5.0. dont know how dependable, but then again it is a beater so you arnt expecting too much right.

iamhomin

Bad fiscal decision.

If the cars are under your name (which I'm assuming), it won't be significantly cheaper just because the TL is listed under weekend. Plus, what's the point of having a beater when you're practically driving a beater?

Plus, RWD beaters are usually not beaters at all in your situation. The cars you've looked at for example, will cost more to maintain than your 97 TL.

supraken

iTrader: (1)

1991 240SX for $200, might be a good project car....

http://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/car/118149078.html

fast-tl

That was exactly my thought! Now wait, you have 150K and you want something ELSE to drive to save the 150K car? Backwards logic!

vishnus11

This might sound kinda corny/crazy to u guys, but the first gen TL is one heck of a car. I'm a fellow first gen TL owner, and I can understand exactly where UnsanePyro is coming from. I myself got a beater accord, so that I wouldn't pile too many miles on the TL. And mines a 96 3.2 with 133k. Runs like clockwork. Back in 04 Oct. i test drove the new TL (04) and RL (05), and after an extensive test drive, saw no real reason to upgrade. Don't get me wrong, the 04 Tl and 05RL were great cars in their own right, but thats how much I hold the first gen TL in high regard. Many first gen members have cleared 200k no problems. On paper, it sounds like its not worth buying a beater to compensate for miles on a 97 model year vehicle with 150k. But I honestly believe that the vehicle has to be driven to truly appreciate it.

Sorry for drifting off a bit - just wanted to chime in and slather praise on the 1st gen TL