If you have time, we can compare: NADA.com lists clean trade-in on a 2002 Audi TT 225Q Roadster, 65k miles, with Bose and Sport for $12,225.

I have a feeling that's about $3k high. I've seen '02 Roadsters with that mileage for $12-13k from dealers.

Back in the day, we'd have about $2k or so in markup on used cars (when I sold cars in '92-93). Low mileage or popular ones would be higher obviously.

That's why I'm guessing NADA is $3k high. Rough Trade-in is $9,425. I have a feeling that's the number people should expect.

 

sounds like your ad went into cl's automatic spam filter. you should definitely be able to see your own ad by a simple search on cl. you should have received at least a few emails, even if they are just spam or lowballs.

 

Vehicle

2002 AUDI TT

Description

Engine Type: 1.8L 4 CYL HO 225 HP
Body Style: CONVERTIBLE
VINCODE:
Standard Features: CD STD
DUAL POWER SEATS STD
HEAD AND SIDE ABG STD
LEATHER STD
POWER WINDOWS STD
TRACTION CONTROL STD
TURBO STD

Base Price: @ 95000 miles 7800
Mileage: 65000 miles



Adds and Deducts

As Equipped Price 7800
Mileage Adjustment 1700
GALVES TRADE-IN VALUE 9500

 

So I was about right ... NADA rough trade-in is the number to go by. I hope that helps anyone else looking to buy or sell a car.

 

I must say that on the last 3 cars I traded in, 08 M3, 07 Tahoe, 08 Frontier, Edmunds has been really close (within a few hundered) on the trade in value.

 

I got 2 offers or 3...and all were Spam. Then someone flagged my ad. I don't understand how all those spam ads are allowed on CL but a legit ad is not. I am going to post it up again.

I got a quote of $19k from a Toyota dealer. The car they are selling is listed at $24k. Its a 2007 IS250 with 20k miles NON CPO. I was seeing the same exact type of cars last year go for $21990. I don't understand how the price went up by $3k.

I am going to detail the car Friday and take it to a bunch of dealers on Saturday. I am hoping the Toyota dealer will accept $21k for the IS and and then I pay $2k and pay no sales tax and I am happy. The IS has half the number of miles my car does and is AWD.

Also I learned CPO does not follow Lexus cars like it does on Audi/BMW. What a waste.

 

Your biggest downfall will be scammers. Don't take cashier's checks or bank checks.

Green cash or wire transfer only.

 

Since one should only deal locally, there shouldn't be any reason not to meet at their bank and validate the funds before getting a check from a bank employee.

Wire transfers can be BS too unless done at the bank while you're sitting there.

Oh, and don't take anyone up on an offer to overpay and then you refund them the difference out of your personal checking account.

It's a scam too.

 

This is the way to do it!

Meet to inspect the car at their bank on a weekday. Have them get a cashiers check IN YOUR PRESENCE for the total. Sign over the title. Have a ride home.

 

I traded in a 2006 Mitsubishi Gallant a month ago with 99K miles and those a**holes at the dealership wouldn't give me anything over $2,800 for it. The car was in "good" condition and had a clean carfax. On KBB, the car had a trade-in value of $4,300. I tell you, if you can sell your car on your own, do it...

I would have sold the car myself on CL, but the dealership at Acura put urgency in the deal when they told me that the 0.9% apr was going to go up to 3.3% after 2/28.