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For my teardown, I was around $6500US in parts but I also DIY'd everything which was key.
Theres blowers popping up daily, stock LSA's go for 1-1.5k & ported ones just over 2k which is a steal. You'd have to do something about the pulley setup since it's a truck but it's been done a bunch of times. Would be sick ..
Tell me about it. Started at $3500 for the tear down and replace, somehow morphed into over 2 times that now! Part of me wants to source a blower now if I am going all in...
This sounds like when I had my issues with compression in the V. Best of luck on the rebuild. At least you have a fresh motor for years to come.
A little update that has me being able to breathe a little easier. After multiple phone calls to and engine rebuild shop, LMT and searching for a short block, I reached back out to the shop and told them I am completely lost on where to go. I handed over my man card, told them motors were not my thing, and need help. They reached out to a couple places they know and deal with that build motors to see if anyone has something in stock to keep the ball rolling and get the truck out of the bay as soon as possible. Got a call back with news of a reman. 6.0L without AFM/DOD for $3500 and comes with a warranty. Still waiting to hear what that warranty was. The 6.0L has a core charge of $760, but with what work has already been done to the heads of my motor already, I will buy that core charge and sell the motor privately or keep it and build it myself to learn as I go. Something I wanted to do for a while, so that is a bonus and making something good out of this bad situation. Shop said I shouldn't have any issues selling the motor for $1000 as is, so that is the last of my worries. I asked them if I was on the hook for all the parts they had ordered to complete the cam/lifter swap, which I had expected since they were already ordered and at the shop, and he said they would be able to use them on other jobs so I wouldn't have to buy them and then resell them. Which is awesome that they would do that for me. Hoping to hear back this afternoon on the warranty and an updated quote. This shop has been nothing but amazing to deal with so far and I hope I haven't been driving them too crazy!
the fact that they didn't tell you to EAD on the ordered parts speaks volumes about their ethics.
Don't hang onto shit, dude...have them sell that engine for you and break them off a little extra for
the troubles and get the new 6L and be done with this shit for about $3K out of pocket...right? 3500 up
a grand back for the other motor...plus some incidentals and some appreciation money and bam...
learn to dismantle and rebuild at a later time if you really want to...you have enough on your plate right now.
the fact that they didn't tell you to EAD on the ordered parts speaks volumes about their ethics.
Don't hang onto shit, dude...have them sell that engine for you and break them off a little extra for
the troubles and get the new 6L and be done with this shit for about $3K out of pocket...right? 3500 up
a grand back for the other motor...plus some incidentals and some appreciation money and bam...
learn to dismantle and rebuild at a later time if you really want to...you have enough on your plate right now.
If it were only that cheap. Having them start to rebuild the other motor before I had them order a whole new long block sucks. I have to eat that labor/parts already installed/performed.
Should be back in the truck by the end of the day tomorrow, 1/29!! Ready to get back into my truck and enjoy sitting up high again. Next up will be a 2-2.5" level kit and 33's on some sort of aftermarket or nicer OEM wheel. Mine look like poo.
So far so good on the new 6.0L. Break in period is a little boring but I am very happy with the power I have seen so far and the tuning of the truck is great. Shift points are crisp! No real updates other than getting 14-14.5 mpg. Still trying to find a better wheel/tire combo to slap on. Currently trying to sell the block/heads/parts from the old 5.3L.
Just did my first oil change (1000 Miles) and no signs of it burning/using oil. 4000 more miles before switching over to full synthetic AMSOil and hoping it will improve the MPG's. I do see a 1-1.5mpg drop (13.5-14) since going to the 6.0L but the combination of a tight motor, conventional oil, warming up and winter mix, that is expected. Hopefully summer I can get that back up to around 15+. Will be looking into a CAI intake to help.
While I was changing the oil, I figured I would rotate the tires. Got to use my new Milwaukee Impact for that and WOW is that thing sweet! I also picked up a couple other tools as well. Happy Birthday to me!
I bought my co-worker an impact, hammer drill and 3 batteries for letting me use his car while my truck was down. The rest is mine.
My tool collection is slowly growing! The drills are so compact and powerful!
Good choice on the tools, I could definitely use those in the future. And that gas mileage is about right for a 6.0 I’d say. In the winter my 5.4 is only getting 12-13.
Decided to remove my running boards to see what it looks like. Almost gave it an instant lift feeling.
I was out of town last week for work and while waiting in the airport I was searching the ol inter webs and came across some black nerf bars. Reached out to the guy and told him I would be back by the weekend and would think about it. After going back and forth with him I was able to get him to a price I was willing to pay. Picked them up and now need time to install them. He had purchased them for his truck and a day or two later he developed a lifter tick, with 93k miles, and traded the truck in for a new 2019. The best part of these is that they are made in stainless then coated. Hopefully they last awhile. Will post pics when I get them on. Maybe tomorrow night if I can find 30 minutes.
-remove the door molding
-plasti-dip the badges black
-find/buy smoked headlight housings
-install LED or HID fog lights
-install the Leveling kit I have sitting in the basement.
-polish exhaust tips
-add LED light bar to bumper cut out.
The other weekend I found some time in between painting a few rooms in the house. Got the new nerf bars on and I think they look great. Now the chrome wheels need to go. Was going to wait until the thread on them now was gone but I may buy some wheels and swap the tires, or just buy new wheels with 33's and keep these for winter driving. If I go 33s soon, the leveling kit will need to go on. No better time than now with not driving much as of late. I did find a set of OEM headlights that were fogged over for $30. I will try to crack those open and paint the housings black before I buy an aftermarket set. Also, I was able to sell the heads from my last motor for $750!! Posted them on the facebook LS page and was ripped a new one for listing them for that but stuck to it and sold in a couple weeks. Everyone was saying they are worth $150-$200... Even tho pull offs are about that without new seals/springs/resurfacing/valve job. So all that is left is the intake, short block and fuel rail. If I can get another $500 out of that I will be perfectly happy!
I'm not affiliated, just linked in case you were curious. Also, no idea if these are actually good or not, further research necessary.
Projectors are so hit or mis on many vehicles. The housing would have to be just right for it, but I think they look weird in most applications for these trucks. The housings are huge and you toss a small(ish) projector in it and it doesn't flow well. I also don't want a bunch of static around it to make up for the extra room. Those aren't bad looking and I won't dismiss projectors all together, they just have to be right.
Don't disagree with you there on projector headlights. My buddy bought a nice-looking new set for his Tacoma at a good price... only it was noticeably dimmer than the stock projectors, and months later the UV coating is visibly peeling. He's now planning to spend 4x the amount he initially did to do it right this time.
Fuck that...OEM sanded and 2k cleared is always the way.
Those ebay projectors are shit...
I think if you find any 20" or 22" oem denali or upgraded wheel with tires on it will be a win...your chrome will be an upgrade to SOMEONE.
I bought the 22 Escalade wheels for $1300 and ended up selling my horrid 20's for a grand!
Steps look really good and glad to see you have it back up and running. I'm assuming the LS FB group is similar to the Wrangler groups, people are terrible to anyone selling anything and you can't win. List your Jeep or a part for a reasonable price, people rail you saying it's too much while I'm looking at their post thinking it looks fair and they will get close to asking. Everyone once in a while I'll see what I consider a great deal and again people are already bashing the person saying it's too cheap and they are making it harder for others to sell.
I'm a whore...soooo... @90foxnotch you own about the only Ford I'd bother with! O'doyle GM rules!
Throw the wheels on before you even do the $50 2" leveling kit...
Unless of course you NEED the lift to do the 33's...if you don't go too
aggressive and stick with stock wheels I bet you don't even need to and
I'm assuming you don't have front torsion bars? I got an inch or 2 on the
old Yukon with the stock keys and then slapped on those 20" '15 Denali
wheels and it looked like it was on a small lift with that.
Fuck that...OEM sanded and 2k cleared is always the way.
Those ebay projectors are shit...
I think if you find any 20" or 22" oem denali or upgraded wheel with tires on it will be a win...your chrome will be an upgrade to SOMEONE.
I bought the 22 Escalade wheels for $1300 and ended up selling my horrid 20's for a grand!
Right before the truck issues, I passed on a mint set of 20" Denalis for $600... I thought I should be the responsible adult and not spend money when I need a major repair. Kicking myself in the ass now... I don't wanna go bigger than 20's, sacrificing ride quality (smaller sidewall). 33's will fit great with a level but if I go 35's I would have to lift it to prevent rubbing.
Originally Posted by 1StGenCL
Steps look really good and glad to see you have it back up and running. I'm assuming the LS FB group is similar to the Wrangler groups, people are terrible to anyone selling anything and you can't win. List your Jeep or a part for a reasonable price, people rail you saying it's too much while I'm looking at their post thinking it looks fair and they will get close to asking. Everyone once in a while I'll see what I consider a great deal and again people are already bashing the person saying it's too cheap and they are making it harder for others to sell.
I think you can't win selling anything in the car/truck community or at all in general... Just stick to your guns and someone will buy for asking, might just take a little longer than you want.
A quick check in since I have been MIA for a couple months. Working from home has thrown off my daily routine a little and I don't troll the site much as of late. A while back I mentioned I had to pass up on some Denali wheels for a great price. Well I think it was meant to be, because I came across another set with tires this time. Tires are about 50% life but will get me thru this summer and I will toss my originals on for winter and get some new tires for next summer. I may try to sell the original wheels and get some better tires for winter but we will see. Can't complain with these for $400. Came with a set of 2" spacers as well. I currently can't run them on the front due to rubbing issues but hopefully that will sort itself out when it gets leveled (hopefully soon). I did buy some cheap headlight housings that I will be installing soon. I thought about doing the cleared housings but I do like a nice orange parking light.
You want that mexiflush look with the spacer?
I loved how perfectly those worked on my old Yukon with no spacer.
Looks awesome though, one of my favorite wheels.
Shit, I sold our stock chrome 20's for $1000.
Yes, but yours were chromed metal 20s, not the chromed plastic on the Silverados from 2009-2014. IIRC, they look like a steel wheel on the backside with a chromed plastic 'hubcap' on the face.
You want that mexiflush look with the spacer?
I loved how perfectly those worked on my old Yukon with no spacer.
Looks awesome though, one of my favorite wheels.
Shit, I sold our stock chrome 20's for $1000.
I do like the small poke of the wheels, fills out the fender flare that is on there. The wheels are too sunken otherwise. If/when I get different aftermarket wheels I would do 20-25 offset to achieve the same(ish) look without having to use spacers. I may step back to 1"-1.5" spacers in the future.
01-14-2020, 11:26 AM
