Anyone know if this is this normal?
Acura has covered unnatural wear on tires. There was an issue with some suspension bushings (I believe) which caused rapid wear if you had big fat people in the back seats for long trips. That extra load changed the suspension geometry to be out of spec. The tires and bushings were replaced free of charge.
As far as the bimmer is concerned, that's a corporate wide design flaw with their use of such a large negative camber. All their cars look like they're squatting for a dump and it leaves little room for load changes or slight toe errors.
As far as the bimmer is concerned, that's a corporate wide design flaw with their use of such a large negative camber. All their cars look like they're squatting for a dump and it leaves little room for load changes or slight toe errors.
That was a manufacturing defect or something like that. So they have to replace it or cover for whatever they say the life of car is gonna be. Like they extended warranty on 2G TL's transmissions. When these TPMS showed up, Ford had issues with them, somehow causing tires to blow up and flipping SUV's upside down, so they had to cover those and replace tires and TPMS free of any charge.
Good to know BMW cover it, will help in future.
That tire is wearing just fine. There is no alignment issues I'm betting. BMW sets their cars up with quite a bit of negative camber in the rear and the inside of the tires always wear out first. You have a sport package, so don't expect those Dunlops to last to long as they are pretty soft. I would get new tires and leave it alone.
I saw your thread on bimmerfest, does your 7 have the EDC and the self leveling suspension? Sport suspension? BMW's sport suspension eats though tires fast because of the offical alignment specs from BMW. Your best bet would be to take it to an alignment place (good one) and just have them try to get the camber with .8 of a degree and get the toe and other stuff near perfect neutral rather than the specs of BMW. BTW are your 19's staggered or same all around? I think sunny_j posted a thread on it a while ago there on the sport suspension specs along with BMW_tech.
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I dont think i have sport suspension or self leveling. They are staggered. Im just soo confused now. After spending my saved money on getting my tl back on the street im stuck with this. Trying to figure out which tires to get and not spend alot lol. Thanks for the help, getting more here then over there
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I found the kumhos for about 700 a set but not sure if they are worth it. I know a friend who has michelin primacy for sale they have 7.2/32 tread on em and hes asking 400. Ive read the treadwears 220 on them and 320 on kumho. Jus trying to make up my mind on which way to go.
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If you paid attention i just dropped 3k on my tl and going to need a lil more. I dont have the money right now since school just started back up. Also the tires barley last 20k so why pay 1200-1400 when 700 bucks will do the same thing, jus burn. No offense taken.
Your pics don't show a typical BMW 750 neighborhood. Perhaps you've got a nice stable of ho's working for you? its time to say to them: "Biatch! (slap) Hustle like you've never hustled before so Daddy can pimp his ride!".
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I found the kumhos for about 700 a set but not sure if they are worth it. I know a friend who has michelin primacy for sale they have 7.2/32 tread on em and hes asking 400. Ive read the treadwears 220 on them and 320 on kumho. Jus trying to make up my mind on which way to go.
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I have the kumho's, 245 on the front and 285's on the back (factory sizes and rims, aftermarket tires) and they aren't the best. They are noisy and as well the grip isn't good, it makes the front of the 7 feel heavy and sluggish. Go with the Pirelli PZero Rosso or the Nero's or the Conti's, they are OEM and were chosen with price, performance and comfort in mind, also the new michelin pilot sport's look good (a/s one's)
^ fully loaded you mean pack the car up with people and all stuff you don't need in trunk?? Nah dude it isn't the way you are saying. Full gas tank is ok but "fully loaded" just bs. Car has to be free of any stress on its suspension(only weight of car) nothing else needed in car. And it has to free float on the plates on allignmint rack... I don't know what mechanic told you to "fully load" your car before you allign it.
i would HIGHLY recommend watching the tires more closely, and rotating it often, and don't burn the rubber so much, that'll add to the wear VERY fast! very very fast might i add.
i agree with the dude who said alignments are an art. i did it for a little while and was pretty good at them, quick, did it right and most importantly, knew how to setup a car to roll straight down the fucking road, my biggest pet peeve in a car, not rolling straight when i let go of the damn wheel. kinda miss that work, i love working on cars. its just my hobby now
when i had my legend setup extreme, i have to rotate all 4 this way after 750-1000miles or else i'd rip thru rubber on 4k
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are the directional? you'll have to goto bmw and have them take the tire off the wheel, rotate it and put it back on. if they aren't directional, i'd atleast swap them side to side, but i think they are aren't they
when i had my legend setup extreme, i have to rotate all 4 this way after 750-1000miles or else i'd rip thru rubber on 4k
when i had my legend setup extreme, i have to rotate all 4 this way after 750-1000miles or else i'd rip thru rubber on 4k

Last edited by harminder247; Jan 8, 2009 at 08:48 PM.
The factory tires can only go one way. They are marked outside and inside on the tire, throw in the fact that they are staggered and rotating them is worthless.
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Feel free to throw one at yourself lol. Thanks for all the help guys. Glad i havent turned into a dick like the other guys at the other forum, im not mentioning no names.
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Hes actually got a point. Itll cost a lil bit but worth it. SInce the insides wear like a couple thousand miles goto a shop have them pop the tires off the rima nd switch sides making the worn out part face out and newer lookin part in. I hope you got what im saying cus thas the best i can do.
Hes actually got a point. Itll cost a lil bit but worth it. SInce the insides wear like a couple thousand miles goto a shop have them pop the tires off the rima nd switch sides making the worn out part face out and newer lookin part in. I hope you got what im saying cus thas the best i can do.
I understand what hes saying, but you'd be putting the tire on wrong though. It may affect the handling with the tire being reversed.
And we're talking hypothetical here right? Because that tire you took a picture of is completely shot. I wouldn't feel safe driving on that even if it you turned the tire around.
I understand what hes saying, but you'd be putting the tire on wrong though. It may affect the handling with the tire being reversed.
And we're talking hypothetical here right? Because that tire you took a picture of is completely shot. I wouldn't feel safe driving on that even if it you turned the tire around.
And we're talking hypothetical here right? Because that tire you took a picture of is completely shot. I wouldn't feel safe driving on that even if it you turned the tire around.
like i said i did this with my old Legend (my race car) very often to perserve my sticky ickys but i guess its easy when i can just pull my car into the shop and get it done, that's why now that i don't have the luxury, i raised my car and aligned it closer to oem.
now that i think about it, do u drive her hard? b/c when u hammer the throttle, your car squats causing negative camber and toe (but toe is the BIG factor here not camber) forcing more wear onto the inside, its RWD, so the diff might be sending more power to the driver wheel or it squats more there causing this kind of wear but this is just a thought, and idk if its what actually causes the problem.
GL. hopefully you can get your tires to last more then 20k next time around.
No Caster to worry about on the rear. Go get an alignment check for 20 bucks. Usually, toe wear is feathered; in other words, it's not even along the edge. Camber could do something like this to your car if you neglect rotation. It wore the inside more rapidly than it did the outside, thus creativing a wear pattern like that.
Remember
Negative camber (in) / / \ \
Positive camber (out)\ \ / /
Also, if I remember correctly, some BMWs come OE with negative camber for aggressive driving. When you take sharp turns, one of the tire actually straightens out for better handling. Not sure if they'd do it on a 7-series though.
Remember
Negative camber (in) / / \ \
Positive camber (out)\ \ / /
Also, if I remember correctly, some BMWs come OE with negative camber for aggressive driving. When you take sharp turns, one of the tire actually straightens out for better handling. Not sure if they'd do it on a 7-series though.
Last edited by Be-in my TL; Jan 8, 2009 at 10:15 PM.
I understand what hes saying, but you'd be putting the tire on wrong though. It may affect the handling with the tire being reversed.
And we're talking hypothetical here right? Because that tire you took a picture of is completely shot. I wouldn't feel safe driving on that even if it you turned the tire around.
And we're talking hypothetical here right? Because that tire you took a picture of is completely shot. I wouldn't feel safe driving on that even if it you turned the tire around.
Oh, and it's hard to tell how even the rest of the tire wore. Try and obtain a tread-depth gauge and you'll be able to see what the problem is. If it reads 4/32nds, 2/32nds, 0... then you know it's a camber problem.
Last edited by Be-in my TL; Jan 8, 2009 at 10:31 PM.
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Damn too much to think about lol. These tires are done. Im not driving the car til the new tires are in and ready to be put on. Just trying to make up my mind on which way to go.
Get tread-depth gauge for a dollar at a parts store. Those things are so easy to calibrate; push it into something flat, and if it says 0, then it's calibrated. If it's off by a little, simply hold on the one end and pull or push the other.
Anyways, push it all the way out, then push the gauge into the tire between the treads. Check the outside, middle and inside. This will help determine your problem sir.
Good luck. If you're gonna invest hundreds into tires, why not spend a little extra on an alignment and save your investment?
Anyways, push it all the way out, then push the gauge into the tire between the treads. Check the outside, middle and inside. This will help determine your problem sir.
Good luck. If you're gonna invest hundreds into tires, why not spend a little extra on an alignment and save your investment?
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