1993 Vigor GS 5MT Build
 

Purchased this car on May 1st 2016 with 222,087.7 miles as the 3rd owner for $400. Car is originally from Performance Acura in Chapel Hill, NC (Local). The car sat for at least four years and had been neglected a little in the process and possibly before then. Bought the car without hearing it turn over.

It's Solaris Silver Metallic with the Ebony interior. That color combination was only offered in the year 1993 for the U.S.

Mine is the GS 5 speed manual, so it's creme-of-the-crop for the Vigor in that particular color combination.

The overall body of the car is in very good shape. Only a small area of rust on the passenger side rear wheel arch. Paint is damaged on the roof from sitting under a tree and in the sun, and just for being a 90's Honda. The body itself has small, average size dings in it from normal wear and tear in the parking lots. It is missing the "ACURA" and "A" emblems on the trunk. "VIGOR" remains.

The interior is a little rough. Front seats and door panels are done and the carpet is trashed as well. Rear seats are actually in very good shape despite being used a bench for storing tires and other junk. I have a set of front door panels in a lot better shape but they still has the typical elbow hole on the armrest I need to repair. I plan on re-doing the carpet and replacing the seats with 2003 Acura CL-S seats, front and rear (Fingers crossed) and re-upholstering the headliner in ebony vinyl. The steering wheel will also be replaced with a 2002 MDX steering wheel, but the splines do not match, so I'm looking into modifying the Vigor steering column to take the MDX spline count. WITH CAUTION

The car previously had an aftermarket radio system which I have completely removed and plan on replacing with a stock 06+ Civic Premium Navi system for semi-modern OEM sake.

For the wheels brakes and suspension, I plan on doing what I think will be the first ever documented 4 to 5 lug swap on a CC2 Vigor. I'll be using the CB7-CD5 Accord DIYs for reference. This is being done to accommodate larger, better looking OEM Honda/ Acura wheels and easier to maintain, better performing brakes (TL-S Brembo kit!). The current wheels on the car are gaudy 17" by what I think are 7" wide(?) mirrors. They also need new tires. I'm thinking about 04-06 TL Base 17x8 wheels with the TL-S BBK and Brembo "ACURA" caliper. I may look into considering MDX brake booster and ABS modules/ hardware to beef up the stopping power and take advantage of the larger brakes. WITH CAUTION

For the engine...
-New 93 gas
-New Iridium plugs
-New Wires
-Seafoam + Injector cleaner
-New gas and radiator caps

That's all it took to revive it to a smoother running state with enough power to test drive the car. Throttle response is now an actual response, however, not all 176 horses are awake. Timing was checked with a timing gun and compression was tested COLD both dry and wet. Timing was on point and compression was 185-195 psi per cylinder. 206 psi in nominal. Neither cylinder leaked either.

I finally got the engine to throw a CEL, and upon pulling the code I found it was a faulty O2 sensor. I'm hoping a new sensor will help the cold idle and power output. The engine does run better once it's been running for a few minutes and goes into closed loop operation, however a bad o2 sensor could still cause a lean or rich running condition, which would explain why the new 2 week old iridium plugs are fouled black! I'll also be looking t the IACV to see if that helps the idle. Hopefully once those two things are squared away I'll have a happy engine, but then again I'm sure there is something else.

Parts to order a:
-Denso O2 sensor
-NGK wires (New wires are not NGK and I do not like their fit)
-NGK Iridium spark plugs
-Top end engine gasket set

Here are some videos.





Still have some work to do!

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Purchased some damaged JDM headlights to repair! https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X...507_202535.jpg
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GOAL
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Love it!!

Bad ass! Keep us updated.

Those chrome rims... They gotta go :D

Dude i am jealous, can't believe you got it for $400. Always loved Vigor's!

So am I!! And the wheels will go as soon as I find some decent alternatives for cheap or get the 5 lug swap + 04 TL wheels done.

Some magic in photo shop
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Awesome. Definitely wanna follow this build. I just picked up a 97 TL 2.5 premium for 500$ this weekend. Similar condition to yours. needs tlc. Just really love to see the progress with yours. Not too far BTW. I'm in Charlotte

Hey yeller, thanks.

Not much progress has been made on the Vigor unfortunately.



Waiting to be installed:
IACV
Distributor Collar with 2 oil seal rings
Under hood Fuel Filter


To be ordered:
Engine gasket set
New plugs [[4h set lol yay :) ]]
Timing belt + water pump kit (Timing to be checked and valves adjusted)
Cooling fan relay (Fans have yet to turn on while engine is running 30+ minutes and temp gauge at a normal level between middle and cold)

The new O2 didn't do a lot but I have some EGR and vacuum testing to do. Tested the fuel injectors and they all have a healthy sounding tick.

If nothing else listed above shows improvement I'll bypass the catalytic converter to insure its not clogged and causing the problem. I'm ordering all new engine gaskets and a timing belt kit next pay day also.

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ALSO picked up a good pair of clutch slave and clutch master cylinders!! One of these aren't even made or sold anywhere online anymore. Just $31.47 :)
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Here is a video before the O2 install. Notice the bogging and stumbling when I open the throttle but once the throttle closes again it revs a little. Just showing that wide open and slightly open throttle does nothing different.

At 1:48 when I hold the throttle open at a fixed position for several seconds and then try to gently open the throttle the engine responds smoother. It has done this on multiple occasions. I don't understand it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X...CCo/s144/1.mp4

Here is another sort video of the smoother response after holding the throttle open steady. Much ore rev-happy, but still pretty sloppy.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4...CCo/s144/2.mp4


And as a disclaimer, those rattles you hear are from the radiator and AC rattling against radiator support. Not a knocking engine. Valves are a little noisy but no louder than the TSX.


O2 and MAP has been installed but do not show improvement I'm working on taking it to a show since I do not have all the tools or a shop to work in to tear the engine half apart to do the timing belt (to check if it's on time) and do the waterpump.


Some more visal art though
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Wish you were closer. You seem to really know your stuff! Definitely gonna use you as a guinea pig lol make the most out of all your information and apply it to my application. When it comes to mechanics, I'm level beginner but that's why I bought the TL. To really get my hands dirty and learn.

Side note. I'm wondering if the transmission out of the vigor is compatible with the TL. would be cool to have a 5 spd...

I also have a set of those 2nd gen type s wheels. Was throwing around the idea of putting those on my project too. Definitely would look sexier on yours tho. Those edits are dope

Thank you! I try to match the size up too and use an deal tire size with a easy drop. Obviously going with an OEM+ look or in other words, a factory "GSR" build.



I do LOVE the TL-S wheels on the Vigor, but for the 1G TL, I much prefer the 04-05 TSX wheels. Same wheel size, but they are 0.5" wider and look like they belong better on the TL's softer lines due to the smoother 7 spoke design.
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I'm sure you've read where I'm going to do the 5 lug conversion somehow. You'll have to do the same. I'm still in shock that the 3.2 TL suspension doesn't swap over onto the 2.5TL. We'll figure it out. Hondas are built like Legos, and we just have the rare ones.

As for the 2.5TL manual swap, it is doable. I think there are a few other threads here on AZ that talk about it but I haven't read them and do not now of their success. But for proof, the Honda Saber/ Inspire of the same years in Europe, Australia and Japan could be had with a 5 speed. (Inspire/ Saber = TL/ Accord) Just make sure you can find a 5 speed and everything seen here and some ECU wiring.
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Wish you were closer too. Not many around.

I'm hearing Cg accord front knuckles and prelude rear hubs from an accord friend of mine. That's what he used on his wagon. That picture looks gorgeous. The paint is amazing.

I'm really considering the manual swap. I'm wondering what cluster I could use and if the OBD is different from vigor to the 1st gen

I've read almost every 5 lug swap thread I could find for the CB7 and CD5 Accords and have seen 98-02 CG V6 Accord front knuckles or 95-97 Odyssey front knuckles and each of them say to use the 2000 Prelude rear with RSX rotors.

I'm leaning more towards the CB7 set up with using the 95-97 Odyssey knuckles since the Vigor suspension is probably a little tighter packged than th V6 Accords/ TL's of 98+ years. But that's just how I look at it.

I've been visiting junkyards a lot lately and I think I will snag a few different knuckles to see what looks like it will work best and align properly.

I've used Honda/ Acura OE part websites to view front knuckle/ spindle/ hub diagrams for the cars mentioned and the 95-97 Odyssey looks most identical to the CB7 91-94 Accord which look the same as the Vigors except the on the Vigor where the tie rod end links connects to the knuckle is placed lower than it is on the other knuckles, so I'm not sure if I need to find tie rods that are shaped to fit the different mounting location or if the stock tire rods can work with the different angle articulation without issue or premature wear.


Still cannot find a 96-98 3.2TL to grab suspension from. May look into the 91-95 Legend. Not sure lol.

Threw a few front knuckles together for comparison. Vigor uses a 33 teeth axle from my understanding which the Odyssey uses too.

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:D

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Ugh that wheel was very inaccurately photoshoped on.. Fixed it tough.
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I didn't know the Odyssey was an option. I'm most likely gonna go with whichever I can find first. If you're ever in Charlotte definitely reach out!

PS. Can you Photoshop 08 acura TL type s wheels on that 1st gen with the tsx wheels lol

Installed the Fuel Filter and checked the fuel pressure. It read correctly.

Installed new spark plugs again. Other ones were black... also again.

Miss placed the distributor O ring seals. :(


Received both engine top-end gasket set and the water pump + timing belt. But before I install those items I am looking into a newly thought of issue:

With perfect compression, perfect spark, perfect fuel pressure, and obviously plenty of free air, what else is there to stop an engine from being happy? FUEL RATIO and TIMING (which I was getting too hence timing belt kit).

A friend of mine mentioned that since everything on the car is pretty much new and has been replaced but it's still running like shit that it could be getting too much fuel... I did check my injectors with a long screw driver and each one had the same healthy tick, but that doesn't mean that they couldn't be leaking fuel when not supposed to be.

He told me to check my injector O ring seals or just replace them all together since it would be hard to test their flow rates. I think I may do that. It' pretty much last resort. Other than ECU and some cam/ knock sensors, there is literally nothing else I could replace on this engine.


So I hope for the best. I'm semi considering dropping this Vigor and picking up another 1992 GS 5 speed in mint condition but in need of a CMC, which I have. Only down side is it is from the north and has some rust under the rear doors in the door jam.

Just stumbled on this thread. Awesome!

My mother had a '92 Vigor she bought brand new and only got rid of it 2 years ago... it was an amazing car to her, super reliable.

Just some rambling.

No Mechanical updates yet BUT I did some wiring and fixed my window trim.

Yanked out the aftermarket alarm. Didn't have the fob for it. Didn't like the fact of having it. Didn't trust it or the wiring job. Easy enough to remove the wiring, loud speaker, shock sensor and the box itself. Surprised to find it it only spliced into the car with a power wire, wires to the fuse box, and more tapped into the main harness. Not sure that it even working. Car still stars and runs so I guess nothing has changed. Regarding alarms, I still want to use a newer Acura alarm system so that I can lock and unlock all doors and lower/ raise windows via key fob. I'm just not sure how well I can integrate one. Ideally removing the stock Vigor system. We will see!

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I also used a 1995-1998 Acura TL window trim/ glass holder to replace my broken Vigor piece. The Vigors was missing the hard rubber that lines the window and metal trim that supports the window once the door is opened and the window is rolled down. Without it, the window wobbles and knocks around in the door, damaging the window tracks and risking breaking the glass itself. Removing the stock piece was easy. I didn't even look up how to do it. Just removed the door panel and find the few screws. One screw is by the far top edge above the door handle hidden under some soft rubber, the other is behind the side view mirror which is easy to remove. Once the side mirror is removed there is one screw holding on the trim with a metal bracket. The 95-98 T trim does not have this bracket. The 95-98 TL trim is also about 2 inches TOO LONG to fit directly.

You could do this two ways. Move the L trim back to line up where the Vigor trim starts near the A pillar OR by the back edge of the door. I decided back edge of the door since it mounted up perfectly and had the same screw hole as the Vigors did. So what about the 2 inches of the extra material? Gotta cut it off. :/

What I did was very risky and thankfully I did it right. I highly recommend using a dremel cutting wheel instead of pliers and luck, which is what I did.

I carefully eyeball-measured where I needed to shorten the TL trim and made my marks I then carefully removed the edge piece of the TL trim and re-cap it latter to the new cut end. I also cut the hard rubber to length as well. After that I literally crimped and bent the TL metal trim back and forth until it broke apart. Had to be careful to not bend the other half of the trim. It's tick metal but likes to twist and bow around with some length.

I reinstalled the end cap and took the remaining Vigor trim clips and installed them to the TL trim piece and also re-used the unbroken clips from the TL. The clips can be slid around on the trim to where need be. I used a dab of super glue to keep them on and in place while I re-positioned and installed the trim back onto the door. I will have to go back and sand down the new cut edges some more when i go to repaint the trim on the car later on down the road, but right now I am just happy that the window stays in place better than before. I believe my window track is misaligned, loose or warped because I still have a rattle when the door shuts, window up or down. I also cannot open the door from the inside, locked of not, and cannot lock the door at all unless I pull the outside door handle open... I'm thinking door lock actuator and the hinge mechanism is messed up. Not too worried about it, I will be taking it all back apart to do some fine tweaking and cleaning shortly anyway.

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So.... now for some bad news. My dumb ass went on craigslist in desperation stupor and bought some "nice wheels" for $300 to replace my ghetto rims and worn out tires. The deal was made but without the seller telling me about the damages and the most important part, without my dumb ass over looking the wheels in person. No wonder he was so helpful at putting the wheels in my trunk for me.... he didn't want me to notice the BIG ASS CRACK.

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So yeah. One wheel is cracked from what looks like sliding into a curb. The other is crack on the inside lip and poorly bonded over with JB weld. The other two wheels are fine from what I can tell and all of the tires are in "ok" shape.

I'm not even mad though. I should have been more careful and less desperate. Especially since I plan on doing the 5 lug conversion anyway. Live and Learn. So anyway I go and try to put the wheels on ANYWAY just because they all hold 40psi of air without leaking but when I try to put the lug nuts back on I come to realize I need special size lug nuts to fit into the wheels themselves. FUCK ME. Autozone had only one set of 4 for $10.00 ea. and I wasn't about to hunt down and pay anymore money to put these wheels on. Haven't decided what to do about the wheels. Scrap and sell for metal.. be honest and sell on craigslist again... keep tires. Not sure.

To make it all better, I photoshopped on this 1991-93 Legend Sedan lip that bought for $10. It fits. Just needs to be cleaned and installed for real.

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A Vigor!!!


:drool:

I've only seen one, and it was BEAT TO HECK!!!!

Man, such nice cars, so beautiful!!!

And they have old "iconic" startup sound...

Probably my dream car!!!

Super cool thread...you know your shit and have a positive attitude.
I'm definitely gonna keep up on this thread. Thanks for taking the time to share the journey thus far.

A set of fuel injectors later and...

:)

Did some SERIOUS cleaning today. Removed seats, deep cleaned carpet with Resolve carpet cleaner (It didn't do much but definitely helped) and a spray bottle with 70% water 30% distilled white vinegar was used throughout the entire interior. Not a single surface was left untouched, including the door jams and headliner.

A ratchet left under the drivers seat left a nasty crusted rust stain in the carpet that I cannot remove as did a few other metal bits in the back floor (drivers side). I think the car was so full of mold and rust in some under dash areas due to sitting for so long and the door seals rotting away allowing rain water to sit in the door jams, exposing the interior with humidity. I cannot find any water leaking in from the windows, sunroof or trunk. I do have a few holes in the fire wall where the rubber grommet was removed for after market amplifier wires that I need to replace. Pretty impressed how well it cleaned up though. Even though I can't see or smell anything anymore I have a good feeling it will come back over time, especially the more it rains.

I'll have to replace the seat cushions, carpeting and do an even deeper cleaning such as removing the dash, carpet, headliner etc and using both steam and chemicals to clean every nook and cranny before re-insulating and sealing the cabin + door seals. It will be done soon but for now I'll see how well I done and look for where I notice it coming back first.

Really need to have the brakes done. Fluid, pads and rotors ideally ASAP but then again I want to wait and do it when I do this 5 lug conversion. 2 birds with one stone, plus I wouldn't waste any money on parts I'm discarding in the future. Of course that goes for the wheels and tires situation. Waiting for the 5 lug. I do gotta say the embarrassment is strong with this wheels and that doughnut. Lol.

I may be getting carpet from a donor Vigor tomorrow and taking it's passenger side airbag-less smooth dash (1992 with a rusted out ass end). Depends on how much they want for it. May even take the seats for the time being. They are better than mine, and likely don't have any mold in them. That interior was mint. :)

Finally the center console. Found that 5G Prelude console is a perfect fit for the width and still retains and deep center pocket and CUP HOLDERS! Problem is, the E-brake in on the passenger side and the Vigors is on the drivers side. I want to relocate the Vigor brake but it seems not be a mounting area for it on the other side of the tunnel. I can however, purchase a heavy duty rolled steel plate, longer nuts, and some spacer/ washers to simply mount the plate where the existing E brake location is and mount the E brake on the opposite end of the plate with very little "wobbling" when operating the brake. Problem is, I don't have anything that will cut the metal to size and drill holes in it. Lowes may do it for me if I provide measurements. Other than the Ebrake the way it meets the Vigor dash will need to be addressed. Prelude is an inch too long. Game plan if to merge the Vigor console to the Prelude around the shift boot using plastic welding techniques and fiber glass. It will be finished off with heavy duty 3M interior spray glue and a think foam layer covered in some nice vinyl. )

Speaking of Vinyl/ clothes, I'm considering doing the headliner and ABC pillars also.

Ramble ramble ramble! Lets see the PROOF! :pics:https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8394/2...c0b3589c_o.jpg https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5452/2...8140e256_o.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8011/2...2042d430_o.jpg https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8769/2...c7a2dd1c_o.jpg https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8300/2...460d870d_o.jpg https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8391/2...8d302a63_o.jpg https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8079/2...23500496_o.jpg https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5775/2...0912c5dd_o.jpg https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8258/2...3b729412_o.jpg https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8164/2...00e5cc91_o.jpg https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8465/2...d324b6d2_o.jpg

Look at 20 year old me go. Non Mechanic, inexperienced, broke, too much time on hands gay :wstevens: self bringing this car back to life! Woohoo! :gheywave:​

Car hasn't been started or moved all week so I decided to do a video before I returned it to it's storage unit.

thanks for the very thorough updates... love what you are doing... 10 yrs ago i picked up a '94 Vig GS from my buddy for $1k... it was a one owner Texas car that had 180k miles on it... the engine was rock solid but it needed a new A/C compressor, windshield and had peeling clear coat on the roof and trunk... i wish it was a MT like yours but i used it as a solid daily for 2 yrs until i sold it to a relative and it died when she moved to Albany... if it was closer when the car died, i would have tried to save the car but i couldn't tow the car home 4 hrs by myself... i still miss that car...

please keep the updates coming!!!

here is my thread...hope the pics still work...

https://acurazine.com/forums/first-g...%2A%2A-597993/

Hey thanks for keeping the thread alive! I was about to post some more videos. Too bad you didn't get your Vigor back! Deff a rare bird.

Another cold start after sitting since I last drove/ posted a video to keep everything in use and charge the battery (which is a over sized truck battery lol). Didn't smoke as bad once warmed up but when I stopped recording I gave the car some light 2-3K rpm revs and the blue smoke came back (pretty bad) and wouldn't go away. I'm pricing the engine rebuild online with TL 2.5 parts. Pistons and rings, rods and bearings, maybe cam shaft (will decide upon inspection, maybe crank, will decide upon inspection) engine front and rear main seals + oil cooler and some other misc items. Going to be close to $2,000 or more with labor, and that's without doing a transmission rebuild + axles (just to be happy).


And here in this video you can hear the cams tick which need adjusting and see some engine sludge. All to be taken care of in the future. Would like to ultra sonic clean the block while it's out.



Everything will start to slow down since it's the holidays, but in the mean time I need to seal off my trunk. Water is leaking into it from the missing emblems and causing a HUGE fuzzy mold problem and probably is not helping prevent further rust.


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Awesome build cant wait when its finish

New wheels and tires. Pulled them off a 1999 Acura CL 3.0L. $300 but for 4 wheels and 4 new-good (<i>but cheap brand</i>) tires I guess that's not too bad. I notice better acceleration with the lighter wheels and slightly smaller diameter. And of course better ride quality going up and down my street (<i>more tire and all tires are inflated</i>). Just very happy to get rd of the hideous chrome and doughnut.

Light weight aluminum 16x6.5 vs heavy chrome 17x7.5.

The CL wheels are the same size (with tire) as stock Vigor wheels too.
205/55R16 (CL) vs 205/60R15 (Vigor)

I'm pretty happy with them. Didn't expect to pay $300 though. LKQ lists aluminum 16" & 17" wheels for $34.88 each. They charged me for the center caps (<i>which I'm missing one</i>) and tires separately but their website doesn't list tires as for sale what so ever. They offer a $10.00 warranty per wheel which I didn't request to buy or was asked about. Will have a word with them when I drop off my old wheels for a core refund of $30.00. Kinda annoyed over that.


All that's keeping this car form being road legal (safely) is a brake job and fluid exchanges. Then it's all cosmetic finishing touches.

Still need to clean them and refinish them but looks so much better. Not my favorite but also not the best pictures or lighting conditions.

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Walk around video of the new wheels after a quick hand wash and a few hours of rubbing my fingers raw to bring the wheels back to a respectable aluminum finish.

The car idles so quietly.... but does she roar! This car has came such a long way and I have gotten a good bit of attraction and compliments from it both online and among my friends.

Some low-res screenshots from the video:
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Got a oil + filter changed and drove the car for a while today. Still burns some oil, but has plenty of power and acceleration. Idles great and doesn't over heat either.

The G25a is very smooth and rev happy. "Yupp, it's a Honda"

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02/06/17
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3/21/17
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6/16/17
Did a lot of part cross referencing between the Vigor and 2.5 TL and ordered a new Radiator, thermostat and gaskets, all-new Valve seals, new O rings for under the cam shaft carrier, and of course the rear main seal. :)

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Originally was a $700 something order because I had also ordered a Distributor collar and the Intake and Exhaust Valve Guides, but they were discontinued. Not sure if I need them or not. We will find out later on.



-Still have to order a head gasket.

I also plan to knock out the 5 lug conversion while we rebuild the head and have the car registered. So once I collect new bearings and hubs (haven't started looking yet) and the other parts arrive I'm towing the car to a friends house to use his shop.



This project got put onto a major hold after jumping through some jobs but I have finally have found one that I love and get paid really ell for, so I'm back to it!

7/29/17
Front wheels and rotors are currently being bored to 70.3mm, and now the tires will be delivered likely the same day completed.

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Brake lines and new pads are all that's left! I may need new rear calipers, not sure yet.

After the engine work (Water pump, timing belt, valve seals and adjustment, under side cam shaft carrier spark plug seals, new radiator hoses and coolant, valve cover seal and distributor O rings) is done I will move on to suspension (again) but this time with new ball joints front and rear and a good quality adjustable coilover suspension set dialed in for a mild .5"-1" drop and taught but comfortable street composure. A camber kit may be needed.


So much money and love being dumped into a $400 car
:)

8/13/17
Honda Rafaga 2.5S (CE4) gauge cluster arrived. Still looking for the Strut Tower bar. Will be doing a LED conversion and KMH->MPH converter to make 60MPH read at the 60KMH point. Mileage counter will be swapped with the USDM.
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Finally got my wheels back from the shop. Bored 2 of the wheels center bore to 70.3mm for the front hubs (Odyssey) and the tires installed. 2/4 pictured. Seeing them on the wheels... looks like I should have went with a lower profile. It's thr same tire size as what the OEM TL uses and what the Vigor had when I bought it. Maybe these are just over inflated?
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Scored BRAND NEW OEM floor mats from a California Acura dealer. To my door for $30 off eBay!
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8/25/17
Got the wheel, brake caliper, rotor, hub and bearing off.

This is my first time doing any type of work like this. I've watched EricTheCarGuy to study so I have had a good teacher so to speak.

Well everything was a breeze. Probably too easy. Despite all of the visual rust and corrosion on the bolts nothing was seized on.

-Major bearing issue. Huge amount of play in and out and up and down.
-Hub/ bearing assembly slid off with bare hand. -WOW
-Inner race was left behind on the spindle. Also slid off with help from a chisel.
-Rear caliper seized open.
-Spindle lock nut came right off and looked brand new as well.

Now here is the surprising part. The bearing looked brand new and so did the grease. It just have been put on incorrectly or is just a lot older than it looks. I can't say. All I know is it didn't give me any fuss.

Now my new TL hub and bearing assembly... it was going on until it hit the ABS sensor. I didn't realize the ABS ring on the new hub was on the outside edge of the hub surface vs the Vigors being flush. Not a big deal. I'll get some longer bolts and some washers to mount the sensor a little lower to sit away from the ring.

Things are looking up for the most part. I'm happy to be the first doing so on this car.

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8/26/17
Added some washers, slid the hub on, installed and cleaned the new rotor, out the new caliper and pads on, cleaned it up a little and on went the wheel!

Spins sooooooo smooth now. No scraping/ gnarling/ clunks anymore!

Tomorrow I'm going to take it back half apart, put some locktite and anti seize on select threads and make sure I torqued everything correctly and try to re-thread that stripped bolt hole. Had to button it up before I storm arrived.

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25% done haha

8/27/17
The other side now complete.

50% there!


(I'm having WAY too much fun doing this btw--addictive)

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The old junk. Rusted, seized, old old old!
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You guys are gonna say. I "over wheeled the car" with these. And I agree a little. Looks fine in person but the pictures are hard to justify.

235/45/R17 +45

Needs 1-1.5 degrees negative camber and probably to roll the fender lip inside.


Pics with/without my friend (heavier weight) sitting in the trunk.

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9/1/17

Going to order new front and rear upper and lower ball joints since the knuckle has to come off of the car to get the bearing assembly unbolted. The Axle is in the way. These ball joints are trashed and if I'm going to drive this car and open up the suspension I might as well get the ball joints taken care of while I'm in there. After all it is a safety thing.

Still haven't done any engine work but all of the parts are still waiting around. Car runs great but currently the valve cover pours out oil and the cooling system is open. Work has been crazy busy (hence why all of the progress is taking place from 9pm to 2am) but it will be done!

The interior, paint and NVH is still on the list. But I'm loving this so far. Couldn't be happier.

Anyway I hope you guys enjoyed the update! Sorry it has been so long!

9/3/17
Front upper and lower + rear upper ball joints/ control arms ordered.

Honestly idk why because I'm more than likely going to need to add some slight camber. Like -1 degree all around.

I'm so stupid.
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Great progress! :butthead:

Went and checked on it after work tonight. Starts up immediately and the interior and trunk are dry even after all the rain we got. https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/images/e...5/16/1f64c.png��

Wheels don't look too over sized from this angle. The 235/45R17s are only 1" larger in total size than the 205/50R16s. From tire to fender, right under 3 inches of clearance rear, right over 3 inches clearance front.

Still waiting on camber and suspension kits before I start the front and finish it up.


I called Delray Acura (In Florida) to see how they were doing after the hurricane nd to check about my order. Probably a few more weeks until they send the parts which are front L and R upper control arm (ordered for the ball joint) and L and R Legend front lower ball joints (will have to press the Vigors out).

I already have Moog rear upper control arms but I'm not installing them. I want some slight camber. About -1.2 rear, -.08/-1 front ideally.

So basically aside from the front lower ball joints I'm restarting all over on sourcing aftermarket CB/CD Accord camber kits.

I can't believe I ordered all that stock stuff without realizing I have to order the same things but aftermarket and adjustable... damn it.

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9/23/17
Got the rear upper arms and ball joints done. Really easy job. About 3 hours for both sides. Used a fork thing and a 5lb hammer and about 10-15 hard his to separate the ball joint from the knuckle.

Good thing I did this because those old ball joints flop around like a soft...male appendage...LOL.

Anyway. Didn't document much. But here ya go...
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More like replacing an arm and ADDING a ball joint than replacing a arm and ball joint. lol
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I'm gonna guess these are old 222,000 mile units. They had NO markings on them anywhere though.
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Good ole' double wishbone in all 4 corners! Like a Honda should be.
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I've been in close contact with a wizard, lets call him, that my friend with the Integra track car and who has been lending his shop to me knows. He's built countless track Civics and a few TSXs and Accords. His personal TSX '06 6 speed has some really nicely set up suspension tweaks. It's nearly the Aspec set up but with some twists. He's going to assist me with doing the valve jobs and timing belt just because I'm trying to have the car done and ready by December 1st and I want those things done correctly without paying a shop labor.

When he heard I had a Vigor he was pretty ho-hum. Was willing and interested in doing the work and seeing the car. The man is in his 50's and said he remembers the Vigor well but just "forgot about them". I told him the story of the car and what I'm doing and he immediately asked for the part brands I'm using. Assured him with receipts it's all OEM Honda and highly reputable replacement parts and he was ecstatic!

I don't think he was expecting me to be so anal about the car. Profile the typical 21 year old kid with a "Honda" in my generation and you assume cut springs, light bars and the absolute cheapest ebay parts. He and I talked more about my car and my direction for it and it clicked to him that I was setting the car up for some mild autocross and street driving. He asked what suspension the Vigor used and requested pictures of the front and rear.

His reply to the pictures was simple: "there is a lot we can do with that car". This didn't surprise me but hearing it from him made it that much better. He asked about my racing experience and how I drive and handle speed and cornering. I told him I'm just an amateur, a beginner, but an aspiring HPDE/ NASA driver. He was concerned about what suspension and drop I was looking at doing and I told him Koni Yellow+Eibach Pro Springs and about 1"-1.8" drop. He was very pleased to hear that.

Pretty much to sum that story up is over our 30 minute phone call he went from "sure I can hep you with that" to "Hey, lets get this car set up right!". He's almost dying to meet the car and myself it feels like. It's wonderful knowing someone else is almost as crazy about the car as I am.



Next time, front end conversion!
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Goal:
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Also the gauges will only light up yellow. It's because the gauge faces aren't like other faces where you can sand away or use rubbing alcohol to remove the colorized film. Instead Honda decided to inject amber colored plastic into the clear plastic behind the white face areas. Also those gauge needles are extremely hard to remove and the stepper motors are very delicate. Luckily this is a pare JDM cluster I experimented on. Was still $150 shipped from overseas.

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Doesn't look so bad but it's not my goal.
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So I'll be scanning the gauge faces, doing some photo editing and printing new faces out on clear printer sheets in layers, divided by color and shadowing to give depth and sharpness. Going to laminate the layers together and glue them to a clear plastic slab that will replace the entire OEM gauge faces.

9/23/17
I'm not wasting no time!

Scanned 2 of the 4 gauge faces into photoshop (gimp2.8 as always!) and cleaned them up. Made some adjustments to the font and redline.

What I did was a colorless base layer on regular white paper to diffuse the light followed by 4 layers of the same print but with color on the clear sheets. The 4 layers insures sharpness when they all are aligned perfectly while giving the numbers and ticks some added depth! The results are sharp, OEM looking faces with a twist.

They do have that printer ink tint to them, meaning when the light hits it just right on the glossy black surfaces they have a deep purple-ish tint. Not a big deal seeing as how the cluster is buried into the dash and normally shadowed.

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I still have to scan and edit the 2 other gauges and glue all the layers together with a spray adhesive. Then I will glue them to a crystal clear plate of plastic for rigidity so they don't warp in the head or move inside the gauges. I also have some colored filter paper I might use instead of adding blue and red LEDs for the red and blues. I'll experiment on that more later.


Don't bother me about the higher redline! It looks sportier and with the future plan of a:
custom cam,
slightly higher compression ratio pistons,
custom exhaust manifold,
tune on a standalone ECU with the coil on plug ignition,
..it will get there!

And for those of you wondering why 180mph.... well, just because! <b>:)</b> In use will be a converter to correct the speed. If plopped into the car right now, 60mph will read 100 on the face. A simple pulse adjuster can be built or bought to modify and correct the signal so that 60mph reads 60 on the face.

9/26/17
Lifted the front, removed the brakes, removed tie rods on both sides, took off upper arm castle nut on both sides then hit a brick wall. Not only did I forget to break the axle nut loose while the car was on the ground... but I don't have a socket big enough for that size. Welp this is going to be interesting.

Off to get larger impact sockets and some other supplies and a different style ball joint press. The goal tonight was to have both knuckles off the car and ready to have the old bearing and hub beat out and the new bearings and hubs pressed in while installing the new upper A arms and ball joints.

But progress is still progress.

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The lower ball joints actually look new. Oh well, still getting replaced! Not taking any chances.
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And for some reason the car in this lighting just reminded my of the movie "Christine". Almost as if the Vigor is trying to pull itself away from a crushing death.
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10/19/17
Late update:

Got the knuckle bored to fit the bearing.
Got the bearing bolted in and hub pressed in.
Got the lower control arm off and pressed in new ball joints.
Got the new upper arms installed.
Waiting for new lower control arm bushings to arrive from Acura.
Waiting for Koni Yellow Sport shocks to arrive.
Waiting for new axle nuts to arrive from Acura.
Waiting for new sway bar end-links.

Got a brand new set of Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs from Eibach that fits the 2.5 TL.


Getting closer!

The pics are random, didn't take many while having the stuff pressed.

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10/21/17
Still waiting on Acura to send Lower Control Arm bushings and my TSXs door lock actuator... :/

But I did grab some dirty but in good shape<b>*</b> CL-S rear seats and arm rest. Yes I know I have the butt cushions on the wrong sides :(

<b>*</b>(ok, they're not really in that good of condition but all the seats from these Acuras are always ripped. I can deal with the light scratches and once I get them dusted off and moisturized they will looks great again)

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Literally just the new LCA bushings keeping it like this.
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<b>P.S
</b> That Stealth RT is for sale.

What a great thread.. should move this to Car Talk where it should get the attention it deserves.

I have no powers here... @KaMLuNg :poke:

Yes, should be moved to Car Talk.....

No powers.... pffft...