Anyone use one? Is it better to make the White Balance fixes in the Raw converter app by taking a picture in the scenes with it or use it with the Custom WB feature on my 40D? It "appears" to do the same thing.

 

I've got one and I do like it, but I tend to use my Expodisc more now. Both systems have their advantages, but I prefer the faster workflow with the Expodisc when I'm out in the field.

 

How does the workflow differ on the Expodisc vs a WhiBal card? I'm just wondering if the effect is the same with doing it AFTER in Adobe Camera Raw or BEFORE using the Custom WB in the camera. I just picked it up this week and it just seems easier to just set it before. Maybe I need to learn more about RAW. Have always stuck to JPGs in the past.

 

If white balance is important to you, you've got to shoot raw. As good as any of these tools are, there will be times you want to tweak the white balance after the shot was taken. You can change the white balance of JPGs after they're shot, but it will be a destructive change, whereas RAW is non-destructive.

Using a whibal to set a custom white balance in the camera is not very easy and has one problem: you need to be standing in the same light you want to photograph. The expodisc just clips on to the lens and averages the white balance across everything in the frame.

The one good thing about the whibal is the ability to target where your white balance reading will be taken. If your subject will be standing in a different light source than the main light, you can just get them to hold the whibal for a frame and set the white balance in post. In this case, I often use both the expodisc and the whibal just to give me a couple options to choose from. In theory, you can use the expodisc to take a targeted reading too, you just have to walk over to the subject and take a close reading then set your balance based on that.

The last thing I've noticed is the whibal card will have different readings across the surface depending on how the light hits it. The expodisc does too, but since the white balance sensor in the camera only uses the center of the frame, it will have the same reading every time. Not a major issue with either one, but you just need to be aware of the limitations ahead of time.

 

Thanks! That helps.

 

Here's a test using the WhiBal card. Shot using a 40D set to AWB, lighting is overhead recessed can lighting:




Shot adjusted after white balancing off the WhiBal card:

 

Now you just need to convert your image to sRGB for online viewing and you'll be good to go.

It's in AdobRGB right now so the colours are a little off...

 

Geez, you must look at this stuff all day. I tried changing the profile and it was so subtle it barely looked different. I'll remember that tip for online posts. Thanks.

 

Speed, when you go to set the custom balance (or set the WB in RAW) are you selecting the 18% gray area or the white area?

 

I use it.....when I remember! Doh!

 

Looks like a nice tool.
I've never heard of them before, but it's something I'll definitely consider getting.

 

The gray area. Which was kind of counter intuitive from how I thought it should be used initially. I had always been used to looking through the picture trying to find what should be white and using that as the reference. I didn't think clicking on the 18% gray area would accomplish the same thing.

 

I compared the two and I found that WhiBal and Expodisc produced different results, not sure what's wrong.


WhiBal


Expodisc

 

lol, funny you mention this. I brought the camera to take pictures at a birthday party the kids were at today and forgot I had it. Need to get in the habit.

 

I like the expo disc better, how's about larger sizes?

I got a ezybalance disc the other day, I'll try to put it up against the WhiBal tomorrow.

http://www.lastolite.com/ezybalance.php

 

Interesting. The Expodisc looks more accurate. Maybe Dan can do a couple of tests to see if this is consistent?

 

I just tested both for myself and they're both considerably better than the camera's AWB, but I'd say the Expodisc is a little closer to what I would say is white. The whibal seems to be a little cooler and with a touch more cyan.

Here's how the different white balance tools performed in my test scene (mixed tungsten and daylight):
AWB had a reading of 5100 degrees and +20 tint. (way too warm for this shot)
Whibal had a reading of 4250 degrees and +5 tint. (very close to right, but a tad too cyan)
Expodisc had a reading of 4150 degrees and -10 tint. (almost perfect)
My tweaks put it at 4150 and -5 tint to get it perfect.

The Expodisc's reading was so close to what I'd consder perfect that I wouldn't bother changing it except for the purposes of this experiment. The Whibal was in the same ballpark too, but it might need a slight adjustment here and there if colour is critical.