Finally got my complete system back in my 99 CL that was in my wrecked 97.
Pioneer DEHP6000ub head unit
Kicker 1500 watt mono sub amp
Kicker 850 watt 4 channel amp
Custom amp rack with pas through opening
Polk DB 6.5 inch components
Polk Momo 6x9's
2 Kicker L7 10 inch subs in a custom box made by myself
Kicker zero guage power wire and interconnects

 

system is meh

I would

Ditch the rears
Bridge the 4 channel to power the fronts
Ditch the shabby sealed box

 

I agree with eggy nothing impressive no offense though. And that may be your max wattage but who goes by max? Those in the know go by rms. But if you like the output then that's all that matters.

 

Looks good. Cancellation may be an issue for you though, as you've inadvertently made what looks to be a port down the middle of your vehicle. Cancellation effects from the trunk shape is what I'm thinking of here. But I'd need to RTA measure it to determine.

These other fellas are right though, ... watts are great for measuring heat and lightbulbs and stuff. Not so great for audio gear. Audio is dynamic, and most people forget that in reality, those numbers will only show up in millisecond peaks and with significant distortion.

 

I would put the two kickers together in one box, not apart. 2350 watts? I kick out 3200, and I didn't even think my system was that great.

 

Good choice on the polks, good stuff.

And I like the box setup, I also keep my ski pass open to get more air pushing into the car, definitely original, nice work

But 2350 watts isn't what you're pushing RMS

 

These are the two amps I have and I have been an installer professionally for over 20 years and I am not offended by others opinions but I like a system that isn't intrusive to where it takes away functionality of the car. The amps are mounted behind the box which pushes in tight against the back seat and doesn't move. I also prefer the sealed box because it is much more accurate than any other type. No cancellation going on that I can even imagine. I still have 80% of my trunk space and this system sounds crystal clear, not some booming nonsense.

I chose the Kicker zx1500.1 and the zx850.4 amps mainly because I sold these amps for years and they seem very true to specs. Each one had a birth certificate stating more than the rated "RMS" or "Continuous" power. It doesn't even mention peak BS power also known as when lightning strikes power.

Model ZX1000.1 ZX1500.1 ZX2500.1
RMS Power in Watts
@14.4V, 4Ω Mono ≤1.5% THD+N 500 x 1 750 x 1 1250 x 1
@14.4V, 2Ω Mono, ≤1.5% THD+N 1000 x 1 1500 x 1 2500 x 1

The subs are dual 2ohm and wired in series which makes each sub 4ohm then wired each sub paralell to the mono amp giving it a 2ohm load.


Model ZX350.4 ZX650.4 ZX850.4
RMS Power in Watts, all channels driven
@14.4V, 4Ω Stereo ≤1% THD+N 60 x 4 120 x 4 175 x 4
@14.4V, 2Ω Stereo, ≤1% THD+N 90 x 4 170 x 4 215 x 4
@14.4V, 4Ω Mono, ≤1% THD+N 175 x 2 325 x 2 425 x 2

The 4 channel is 4ohm per channel


Ok I added wrong 2200 watts rms

 

If you've been a pro you would know every kicker sub expect the solo classic shines in ported boxes.

And you'd know that rear speakers pull your sound stage back.

also..i don't see any mention of sound deadening....

 

And the cancellation and unintended port issue still remain. Have you RTA'd this setup?

 

I am aware of the gains of the proper sized ported box but I really was aiming at NOT loosing my trunk space. Plus with all the gains "mostly volume" a ported box gives it also reduces the handling power of the sub and IMO not as accurate and quick to response of a sealed box. The rear deck and inside of the doors plus truck lid has dynamat. The rear speakers are only a fill and the gain is much lower on them and they give a bit of mid bass.

 

You can get a flat response with a ported box...

If space was an issue, why didn't you just port 1? 1 ported>2 sealed imo...esp for spl oriented subs.

Why even go with kicker in the first place if space was an issue? Alpine type x and dozens of other subs would've been better for your application.

 

1- Kicker over rates their equipment.
2- what made you choose kicker since if like u say you've been installing audio for years you know their is much better gear out for the money. But hey if your happy then cool. I don't see the point in rear fill speakers but then again I have some banging focal comps and a custom made rear deck. Each and his own I guess.

 

1- Kicker over rates their equipment.
2- what made you choose kicker since if like u say you've been installing audio for years you know their is much better gear out for the money. But hey if your happy then cool. I don't see the point in rear fill speakers but then again I have some banging focal comps and a custom made rear deck. Each and his own I guess.

 

I respect your choice of box but I want to point out to others reading/watching you here that you have mis-spoken. A ported box does not reduce power handling of the sub, except below the tuning frequency. Which is precisely the reason to tune low. If you build a ported box correctly and tune low, the power handling goes through the roof. This is caused by the very nature of what a ported box does. What ends up happening is that around the tuning frequency a sub no longer runs into xmax limitations, but instead starts to run into thermal limitations. And thermally speaking, we can do a lot more, especially with quality subs.

Andy W. of JBL/Harmon Int'l. said the best way to do it is to build as big as you can, tune as low as you can, and EQ out any peaks if you have any to deal with, as these cuts will gain you further power handling ability.

And here's the kicker: When properly designed, a ported box will have far LESS distortion than a sealed box. That is because a sub that is traveling in and out large distances (xmax) in a sealed box is going to have higher inherent distortion (especially non-linear distortion, the kind you want to avoid.) A ported box running around its tuning frequency will not be moving near as much, therefore will not have as much of this exact same distortion.

The transient response of a sealed box is actually about the exact same as a ported box unless below tuning frequency, so that too is also something that should be corrected in your statement.

I use sealed subs too, but only because I graphed the performance potential of a ported design vs. one of a sealed design, and noticed for my application and intentions that a sealed box would do my bidding better. And indeed, yours might have ended up the same. I just wouldn't use reasons as you mentioned prior because it misleads "newbs" and discredits you as a 20y veteran.

 

Nice statement fourth