FPAEP

I am installing two 4 channel amps in my car. I want to use the stock head unit, and bypass the stock amp. Since the head unit output is low level (3-5 amps) I can't use the speaker inputs on my amp, since it's designed for high input. So i am left with using the RCA inputs on the amp, which is low level inputs. So the only thing I can do is splice the regular speaker cables into the RCA cables. Do you guys think that it's okay to do, or is it a big NO NO?

Also, the second amp which I am gonna use for the SUB; do I use the outputs comming out of first amp? if yes which ones?

The problems that I have been having were very strong alternator noise, and hissing noice which can be heard when the music plays low. I bought two filters, and the alternator noise seemed to go away, but the hissing still persists.

I hope I gave enough info here for someone to give me some good suggestions and advise. Thanks.

Titand19

If you're changing the amps and the speakers your system is being restricted by the stock headunit. It's still going to sound like bose crap with the bose unit. Sorry to tell you but that's the truth. You may not realize it now, but you will in the future. For example: I put in a new headunit before i put in new speakers and it makes so much of a difference as opposed to new speakers and amps.
If it's a faceplate you're concerned about there are a few people on here that will make or sell you one.
I'm not here to flame, just sounds like you want some serious stuff and a stock unit is not going to allow that. Another alternative would be to get a EQ, crossover or processer. Goodluck.

FPAEP

I was afraid that someone was gonna say this. I guess for now since I already have everything, i will do it my way, but as soon as I get the money I will get a good after market head unit. Because you are right, I do want serious shit in my car. thanks.

Six Shifter

I hate it when people give out totally incorrect information on this site as some sort of 'truth'. The only parts of the stock system that are affected by the BOSE components are the BOSE speakers and the BOSE amp. It is within the amp that all the BOSE acoustical manipulation takes place, and the speakers are built to accomodate this ... it is not a function of the factory head unit. This is gospel, and any information to the contrary is factually incorrect. The part of what Titand19 said which is true is that the replacement of the factory head unit and everything else associated with the factory system when addressing any aftermarket upgrades will vastly improve the system beyond what replacing solely the speakers/amps will accomplish. However, if you don't want to deal with poorly concocted, one-off faceplates which you hope will accomodate either single or double din units and provide some sort of an asthetically pleasing appearance, there is an option which involves either 1) (seemingly preferred option) soldering RCA's onto the left/right +- channel outputs from the factory unit and running them into the aftermarket products of your choice, or 2) (option flamed by most on this board but I'll put it up against anybody who has opted for option 1)) utilizing a passive LOC which does nothing more than provide the means to turn your speaker leads into RCA's and then you do as you please. My only advise is that unless all you are looking for is mind-numbing bass, the need for an EQ is paramount, as the (specifically) treble control on the factory h/u is less than satisfactory for providing anything within that part of the spectrum, and your crossovers cannot create this for you if it doesn't exist. And b4 this gets into another fauking pissing contest, I will make the disclaimer that the above is my opinion, and it is based on real world utilization of the pieces offered as an option and should not be taken as the definitive response to your query.

DRM600

ok question, which part of the plug do we solder the wire to, the pin or the outer ring?

bl^5

To keep it simple...

1. Tap the lines BEFORE the bose Amp (between the headunit and amp, not the amp and speakers). The signal leaving the headunit is simple a preamp signal.

2. You will probably need a filter on the output lines. They should clear all noise. Check all of your grounds to clear noise too.

3. Your 4 channel amp may have a set of RCA outputs. If it does just run RCA's from the 4 channel amp to the sub amp. Your sub amp should have a crossover built in.

4. If your 4 channel doesn't have outputs just use a spliter to run signal to both of your amps.

5. You HAVE to replace your speakers.

5. The only thing gained in replacing the factory headunit is the extra's the comes with an aftermarket headunit (ie controls over this and that, extra EQ controls, soundstage adjustments and the like). I like to avoid aftermarket headunits so my car can have a stock appearance. To me aftermarket headunits in expensive cars just say that this person has something serious in the trunk.

shakademus

anyone know which wires to splice? what goes were on the rca?
(positive and negative)

FigDj

Here you go

Pin #1 =BRN/BLK--Passenger Door speaker and right tweter (-)
Pin #2 =RED/GRN--Passenger Door speaker and right tweter (+)
Pin #3 =WHT/YEL--Constant Power
Pin#4=Not used
Pin#5=YEL/WHT--Radio Switch
Pin#6=Not used
Pin#7=BLK--Audio Unit Right Rear(-)
Pin#8=BRN--Audio Unit Right Front(-)
Pin#9=GRN--Audio Unit Left Rear(-)
Pin#10=ORN--Audio Unit Left Front (-)
Pin#11=Not used
Pin#12=BLU/YEL--Left Rear Speaker (+)
Pin#13=GRY/WHT--Left Rear Speaker (-)
Pin#14=BRN/WHT--Right rear Speaker (-)
Pin#15=RED/YEL--Right Rear Speaker (-)
Pin#16=BLK--Ground
Pin#17=LT GRN--Shielding
Pin#18=Not used
Pin#19=Not used
Pin#20=BLU--Audio Unit Right Rear(+)
Pin#21=YEL--Audio Unit Right Front(+)
Pin#22=RED--Audio Unit Left Rear(+)
Pin#23=WHT--Audio Unit Left Front(+)
Pin#24=Not used
Pin#25 =GRY/BLK--Driver Door speaker and right tweter (-)
Pin#26 =BLU/GRN--Driver Door speaker and right tweter (+)

You should tap before the amp on pins
7,8,9,10,20,21,22, and 23.

FigDj

I forgot, on the wires mentioned before, the negatives get soldered to the outer connector of the RCA's (shield) and the positives get soldered to the center connectors.

Additionally, in order to bypass the stock amp you will have to disconnect the wires labeled for speaker from the stock amp and connect those to your new amp unless you are going to run new speaker wire.

hope the info helps you out.

FigDj

Correction to my post, sorry about the mistype, pin #15 should read as follows:

Pin#15=RED/YEL--Right Rear Speaker (+)