I just picked up an 05 TSX non-navi and it's time to upgrade the stock stereo. I want to upgrade the speakers, keep the stock hu and bypass the stock amp.

1. Polk Audio MM6501 (Front Components)
2. Polk Audio MM691 (Rear Deck)
3. JL Audio 10w3v3-2
4. Alpine PDX-5

I have a couple of questions:
Is mercman still selling the harnesses to bypass the stock amp?
Is there any other harness options out there used to bypass the stock amp?
Does anyone else have any experience with the PDX-5? I chose it because of the size, I figure I can mount it in the truck right below the rear deck. This way I can still have the back seat fold down if needed.

Thanks for any input!

Jason

 

haha, I have the same polks (front and rear).

I wish I could help but someone installed my speakers for me with jl amp

 

Thanks, do you know how your stock amp was bypassed? I want to bypass the stock amp for the front and rear door speakers, and leave it hooked up to the rear deck speakers. I have decide to do the Polk MM6501 components up front and MM651 coaxials in the rear doors, and leave the rear deck speakers stock. I'm pretty much going to completely fade them out anyways.

Thanks!

 

I don't know how my stock amp was bypass. I am clueless when it comes to car audio.

But I was gonna say that if you get the MM691 make sure the dynamat the rear deck because you will most likely have major rattles due to a more powerful 6x9's.

 

When you bypass the stock amp you bypass all the channels so you can’t amp the front’s and sub and still keep the stock amp for the doors. Bypassing the stock amp gives you access to the balanced line outs from the HU (RF, LF, RR, LR). You have a few options at this point like running the fronts and a sub, fronts and rears or front rears and a sub. Generally the simplest and most cost effective way to amp is to use a single 2, 4 or 5 channel amp. This eliminates distribution blocks and mounting issues. One the other hand, going with a separate bass sub amp and main channel will yield higher achievable power levels. Separate amps also let you use a class D for the sub and a class A/B for the mains. Class D amps are very efficient but are really only suitable for low frequencies because of their distortion. The PDX amp is not a good choice since it is class D and does not have balanced inputs. You can make it work but at added expense and sometimes even grater loss of SQ if it is not connected correctly to the HU outs.

In the FAQ section you will find a post on TSX audio options, check it out.

Jeff

 

Hey, Mercman I am very interested in this amp bypass harness. Where is it installed? How does it work? Does it have a set of preamp outputs? I searched to find more information on it and just couldn't find it.

 

Thanks Mercman! I figured that if I bypassed the stock amp I would have to bypass it for all the speakers. I'm going to upgrade the front and rear doors and disconnect the rear deck speakers. I have done some more reading and it looks like your harness and balun is what I need. Are you still selling them? I am sold on the PDX amp based on its size, and I realize it is class D but that's ok with me for now until money allows me to upgrade to something better.

Thanks!

 

I think i'm confused now. I found this diagram where this guy used the stock amp.... http://vanderwoude.net/gallery/tsxUp...xAudio2?full=1

Are you sure it can't be done?

 

Maybe what I should have said is it shouldn’t be done. There are lots of ways to kludge systems and get sound to come out and there is no shortage of examples of this on the internet. When I used to teach electronics I would have an extra credit question with a circuit example of how not to do something. Credit was given for explaining why. That would be a good one to use if I was teaching car audio.

That install was done by cutting and splicing the factory wires, not a good idea. I get lots of emails from people that cut into their wires and can’t figure out where the noise is coming from.

The best way to run after market speakers is with an aftermarket amp connected to the HU without the factory amp. The factory amp is tuned to make the cheap factory speakers sound better, especially the sub output.

Jeff

 

Thank you for the clarification mercman! Makes a whole lot of sense.

On another topic, I have a 2004 TSX with nav and premium sound system. I would like to purchase one of your adapters but cannot pm you. I know you probably get asked this question often but thought I would ask anyway. Do you still have them available for sale? Maybe you can pm me?

 

mercman: can you email me at mitsu2k@gmail.com

I am interested in your amp harness/adapter for 04 tsx. Thanks!!

 

I’m no longer a vendor on AZ and do not sell or use AZ resources to sell anything.

Jeff

 

Excellent choice in speakers and amp....I run the Polks front/rear and have a MRV-f450 driving them and a 10" sub. Your amp is actually rated higher in watts than the 450 so you'll have no issues with power. What will impress you the most, sound quality. The PDX5 is a very nice amp that delivers clean, undistorted power.

Thumbs up man!

 

Would anybody have the audio system diagram or copy from the service manual for the 2004 tsx. I going to install an aftermarket amp and wanted to know if I tap into the factory harness so I can use the stock wire harness to the speakers

 

yeah i've tapped into my sub wires and i'm running an mtx re-q, the sound is better than with my old line out contverter, though not as great as with an aftermarket deck, how do i tap into the factory amp of my 09 tsx with the ELS souns system?

 

I wanted to buy the "Polk Audio MM691" for the rear deck, but according to crutchfield audio they do not fit. They are saying the tweeters hit the factory grill. i know some of you have installed these and i wanted to know if anyone else had an issue with them not fitting, I have a TSX 06?

 

I’m working on a solution for the ELS right now. I already replaced the cheap factory speakers and now I have to ditch the ELS amp. Not easy since the amp controls all of the sound settings including volume. I built a tap for the data line so I can record the HU commands to the amp. Once I map them I will use them to control my preamp.

Jeff

 

Huh, don't know why crutchfield would state that. I have the MM691 and the tweeters do no hit the grille.

 

Thanks alot mdkxtreme! If you go to there site type in the info for our car it says doesn't fit in red on these speakers. So i called crutchfield and asked why they don't fit and they said the tweeter is to high and hits the factory grill, but thanks alot for the input i will be ordering these right now!

 

Jay, MDK, how well did the MM6501's go into the front doors? What size spacers did you use and are there any clearance issues (windows, door panels, factory grill, etc)? I'm looking at some Infinity Kappas and the mounting depth is almost the same as well as a set from Hertz that's a bit deeper.

 

Well I finished installing the front components, and it worked out perfectly. I ended up going with a pdx-4.100. Birthsheet states 121 wpc rms. I put the MM-6501 crossovers where the stock amp was behind "not an ashtray" and ran new 16 gauge wires to the tweets and mids.

MM-6501 tweeters worked perfectly with the supplied flush mount pods; I didn't have to do any cutting of the dash. I did have to get a longer screw for the mounting bracket of the tweets, but after that it was easey.

I picked up some spacers from ebay (.75") for the front door speakers. The baskets on the 6501s were wider than the door would allow, so some trimming of the metal door panels was required. It was extraordinarily nerve racking at first, but it worked out perfectly. Mounting depth is not an issue and they lined up with the door panels.

Running the new wires to the tweets was easy, and the passenger door went relatively easily too going through the factory boot. The driver side door was another issue entirely, probably took me ~3 hours because of the molex plug that is in the door, as opposed to the boot on the other doors. I finally got it done with no wires showing.

Right now, the PDX-4.100 is just sitting in the trunk. I am waiting to do the permanent mount under the rear deck when I get my PDX-M6 for the sub (JL Audio 10W6 and fiberglass enclosure).

The sound quality is outstanding, but I do have a tiny bit of noise when the engine is at idle and there is no output (like pauses in a song). I will further investigate this in the coming weekends when I get some time. The clarity at all volumes is incredible, I am very happy with the sq.

I plan to install the 6.5 coaxials in the rear doors, but I'm not in much of a hurry as they are only for fill and I almost never have passengers. I have also read about difficulties in running the wires past the seat belt tensioners and airbag stuff.

 

Check your grounds - regarding the noise

 

Cool, so I just need to order the 3/4" spacers and I should be fine with the Kappas. Thanks for the info!

 

Yes, the grounds are the first thing that I will check. As it is now, I just used an existing hole that was convenient. Do you know of a location that is a good ground? What makes a good ground, what location makes it a good ground? Obviously no paint, but what else?

Thanks

 

Straight to frame.ssand it down to bare shiny metal. Straight to the battery ground would be the best ground . But the entire cars unibody frame is connected so the frame would is good. Those welded on pieces- not so much