Removing the Front door panels step by step pictures for TSX
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I replied to another thread with this link, but I thought I'd make a new thread so that people can find this more easily in the future.
I took my doors apart to replace the speakers, and on one, took step by step pictures of every part of the process.
They can all be found (along with my satellite radio install pics) on my website.
I took my doors apart to replace the speakers, and on one, took step by step pictures of every part of the process.
They can all be found (along with my satellite radio install pics) on my website.
Last edited by Jonesi; 12-21-2009 at 06:32 PM.
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Nice pics & write-up. One word of caution, if you happen to hear aan inner door rattle chances are it might be the harness. I found out the hard way after installing my speakers. I left the harness loose and it would 'bounce' around inside the door so I had to take panel back off & secure it. Just a friendly tip-o-the day. Nice speakers, I put in Polk also.
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Originally posted by miner
Nice pics & write-up. One word of caution, if you happen to hear aan inner door rattle chances are it might be the harness. I found out the hard way after installing my speakers. I left the harness loose and it would 'bounce' around inside the door so I had to take panel back off & secure it. Just a friendly tip-o-the day. Nice speakers, I put in Polk also.
Nice pics & write-up. One word of caution, if you happen to hear aan inner door rattle chances are it might be the harness. I found out the hard way after installing my speakers. I left the harness loose and it would 'bounce' around inside the door so I had to take panel back off & secure it. Just a friendly tip-o-the day. Nice speakers, I put in Polk also.
#4
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Re: Removing door panels step by step pictures
Originally posted by mojo
I replied to another thread with this link, but I thought I'd make a new thread so that people can find this more easily in the future.
I took my doors apart to replace the speakers, and on one, took step by step pictures of every part of the process.
They can all be found (along with my satellite radio install pics) on my website.
I replied to another thread with this link, but I thought I'd make a new thread so that people can find this more easily in the future.
I took my doors apart to replace the speakers, and on one, took step by step pictures of every part of the process.
They can all be found (along with my satellite radio install pics) on my website.
WOW. Really awesome. Thanks.
So you just replaced the rear speakers? How much improved is the sound?
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Re: Re: Removing door panels step by step pictures
Originally posted by fdl
So you just replaced the rear speakers? How much improved is the sound?
So you just replaced the rear speakers? How much improved is the sound?
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The sound difference is VERY apparent. I could turn on the radio after putting in the left door, listen, then go around to the right door, and hear a huge difference. And I'm certainly not a hard core audiophile or music critic.
Definitely worth the $200 upgrade. It should have been part of the price of the car.
#6
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Re: Re: Re: Removing door panels step by step pictures
Originally posted by mojo
No- I just took pictures of the rear door.
I did the rears first, just so I could figure out how to keep from scratching the pieces that you see all the time. I took pictures at the steps where you have to pry up at a certain place to keep from scratching.
The sound difference is VERY apparent. I could turn on the radio after putting in the left door, listen, then go around to the right door, and hear a huge difference. And I'm certainly not a hard core audiophile or music critic.
Definitely worth the $200 upgrade. It should have been part of the price of the car.
No- I just took pictures of the rear door.
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The sound difference is VERY apparent. I could turn on the radio after putting in the left door, listen, then go around to the right door, and hear a huge difference. And I'm certainly not a hard core audiophile or music critic.
Definitely worth the $200 upgrade. It should have been part of the price of the car.
(Sorry I dont mean to hijack this great thread..but I want to know
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Removing door panels step by step pictures
Originally posted by fdl
So which other speakers did you do...and do you have any rattles in the front doors? Did you ever have rattles?
So which other speakers did you do...and do you have any rattles in the front doors? Did you ever have rattles?
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#8
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I was reading my shop manual yesterday on this topic and one specific thing that it said was to make sure the window was all the way up while removing the door panel. Can you tell me why you had it rolled down?
BTW, SWEET!!!! Great job at documenting the speaker improvement.
One other thing to note is that you must be very careful about the speaker depths you choose b/c Honda is notorious for making depths very shallow.
BTW, SWEET!!!! Great job at documenting the speaker improvement.
One other thing to note is that you must be very careful about the speaker depths you choose b/c Honda is notorious for making depths very shallow.
#9
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Re: Removing door panels step by step pictures
Originally posted by mojo
I replied to another thread with this link, but I thought I'd make a new thread so that people can find this more easily in the future.
I took my doors apart to replace the speakers, and on one, took step by step pictures of every part of the process.
They can all be found (along with my satellite radio install pics) on my website.
I replied to another thread with this link, but I thought I'd make a new thread so that people can find this more easily in the future.
I took my doors apart to replace the speakers, and on one, took step by step pictures of every part of the process.
They can all be found (along with my satellite radio install pics) on my website.
Hey...another question. Why does the window have to be down?
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Re: Re: Removing door panels step by step pictures
Originally posted by fdl
Hey...another question. Why does the window have to be down?
Hey...another question. Why does the window have to be down?
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Originally posted by TSXnT-dot
WOW! I wanna do that so bad.. just don't have the balls to try it myself.
How long did it take you for each door?
WOW! I wanna do that so bad.. just don't have the balls to try it myself.
How long did it take you for each door?
I would encourage you to try it- heck, just take off a door before you buy the speakers to make sure you feel comfortable. I'm certainly not a professional installer - just take your time and follow the directions (or pictures), and you'll be fine.
One thing that really does help is a panel removal tool. Just be sure to put a cloth over your tools to keep from scratching the paint.
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Originally posted by fdl
It looks like all the pics of the panel removal are gone. All thats left are the deck install.
It looks like all the pics of the panel removal are gone. All thats left are the deck install.
#15
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Originally posted by mojo
Please check again - I was in the process of re-sorting to make life easier for me.... Sorry for the confusion.
Please check again - I was in the process of re-sorting to make life easier for me.... Sorry for the confusion.
#17
If you're putting in new speakers, it's probably a good idea to roll the windows down during installation to make sure that the window clears the speaker magnet. I know the service manual suggests it also.. not sure what their reasoning is though.
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Mojo- is the driver side the same as all the others? I didnt see anything mentioned??? With all the wires in their I would imagine it is pretty tricky
thanks
thanks
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The driver's and passenger's sides are a little more tricky, but only because of the windows switches. There is also a connector for the light at the bottom of the window panel that's just cumbersome to get to. I wasn't able to unplug the window switches without breaking it, so I turned the unit upside down and unscrewed the 3-4 screws that held it to the plastic face, then managed to get that through the hole in the door.
Also, be careful with the trim- it's easy to "dent" the door when trying to pry it open.
Also, be careful with the trim- it's easy to "dent" the door when trying to pry it open.
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SPEAKER BRACKET
HEY MOJO, IN YOUR PICTURE YOU USED A BRACKET TO SCREW THE SPEAKERS TO THE DOOR. DO YOU NEED THAT TO PUT THE SPEAKERS ON THERE. IF YOU DO, WHERE CAN I GET ONE THEM FOR MY SPEAKERS. IF YOU DON'T, CAN THE SPEAKERS JUST BE SCREWED INTO THE DOOR, BY DRILLING HOLES?
#24
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The factory speaker cut outs are a pentagon type of shape, therefore the baskets of aftermarket speakers (round that is) will not fit if you just drill holes and mount them. You either have to cut out some of the sheet metal of the door (and make sure your speakers are not more than about 2" deep) or make/find some spacers to pull the speakers out from the door so that the baskets fit thru the stupid hole - wtf were acura engineers thinking? "The car is perfect, who would possibly want to change anything?"
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Originally posted by Gpump
The factory speaker cut outs are a pentagon type of shape, therefore the baskets of aftermarket speakers (round that is) will not fit if you just drill holes and mount them. You either have to cut out some of the sheet metal of the door (and make sure your speakers are not more than about 2" deep) or make/find some spacers to pull the speakers out from the door so that the baskets fit thru the stupid hole - wtf were acura engineers thinking? "The car is perfect, who would possibly want to change anything?"
The factory speaker cut outs are a pentagon type of shape, therefore the baskets of aftermarket speakers (round that is) will not fit if you just drill holes and mount them. You either have to cut out some of the sheet metal of the door (and make sure your speakers are not more than about 2" deep) or make/find some spacers to pull the speakers out from the door so that the baskets fit thru the stupid hole - wtf were acura engineers thinking? "The car is perfect, who would possibly want to change anything?"
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to mojo
hey mojo where can i get some spacers for my speakers, like yours???? help me please
acura has very nice design
but when it comes to little stuff
they can make the easiest things
SO DAMN DIFFICULT!
acura has very nice design
but when it comes to little stuff
they can make the easiest things
SO DAMN DIFFICULT!
#27
How to remove FRONT door panel?
Originally posted by mojo
No- I just took pictures of the rear door.
I did the rears first, just so I could figure out how to keep from scratching the pieces that you see all the time. I took pictures at the steps where you have to pry up at a certain place to keep from scratching.
No- I just took pictures of the rear door.
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Seems like the FRONT door panel is a little more complicated than the rear panel in Chris's pictures. I think there's one more screw holding the panel to the door, but it's not exposed when I follow his steps. Seems like I need to remove some other piece of the interior door handle to get at it, but I don't see how and I don't want to break anything.
Can anyone who has removed a FRONT door panel tell me the trick, or point to instructions someplace? Thanks!!!
#28
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Originally posted by davinci
I'm trying to remove right front door panel in my new TSX following Chris Horne's superb photos & instructions. But I can't get the panel off.
Seems like the FRONT door panel is a little more complicated than the rear panel in Chris's pictures. I think there's one more screw holding the panel to the door, but it's not exposed when I follow his steps. Seems like I need to remove some other piece of the interior door handle to get at it, but I don't see how and I don't want to break anything.
I'm trying to remove right front door panel in my new TSX following Chris Horne's superb photos & instructions. But I can't get the panel off.
Seems like the FRONT door panel is a little more complicated than the rear panel in Chris's pictures. I think there's one more screw holding the panel to the door, but it's not exposed when I follow his steps. Seems like I need to remove some other piece of the interior door handle to get at it, but I don't see how and I don't want to break anything.
In the front door handle there's a small bathtub-shaped recess between the window switch and the armrest. The bottom of this recess is lined with a black rubber "mat." Pry the rubber mat up and voila, the final screw holding the panel to the door is exposed and easy to remove.
#30
Originally posted by tuan209
did you have a hard time opening the door? i want to do it soon but kinda scared....HEHEHe
did you have a hard time opening the door? i want to do it soon but kinda scared....HEHEHe
#31
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1) The reason the factory tells you to roll the window up is that after you take the door panel off, it's hard to roll it back up... and if you are using a tool like a powered screwdriver on the inner door and you slip, you just bought a new window.
2) Looking at your pic of the factory speaker in the spacer on the door, and of the back of the door panel, I see that there is foam on the inside of the door that mates up to the front edge of the factory speaker frame. This is a very common method for factory speakers to use nowadays.
What it means is that the factory speaker uses the whole door panel as its "baffle". A baffle is the panel that a speaker driver is mounted to, and it keeps the air pushed out by the speaker as it moves out from rushing around to the back and filling the vacuum just created by the speaker as it pushed out. (Same thing when it moves in, of course).
If a speaker has a lousy or leaky baffle, it plays lousy bass. In some fashion, if you can make the speaker or speaker spacer mate up to that foam ring on the inside of the door panel, you will get lots better mid-bass and bass than if the speaker is bolted to the spacer, but not mating up to the back of the door panel.
I went through this a few years ago with the MB Quart 6's in my CR-V. I had to make sure that everything sealed before I could get bass or mid-bass - once I did, it was fine. What I have done in some other installs is use rubber weatherstripping tape from Home Depot. It's adhesive, and has a half-round shape that can fits on the edge of most car speakers.
But when you make your spacers and mount them, you gotta be precise and accurate, or stuff don't fit right.
2) Looking at your pic of the factory speaker in the spacer on the door, and of the back of the door panel, I see that there is foam on the inside of the door that mates up to the front edge of the factory speaker frame. This is a very common method for factory speakers to use nowadays.
What it means is that the factory speaker uses the whole door panel as its "baffle". A baffle is the panel that a speaker driver is mounted to, and it keeps the air pushed out by the speaker as it moves out from rushing around to the back and filling the vacuum just created by the speaker as it pushed out. (Same thing when it moves in, of course).
If a speaker has a lousy or leaky baffle, it plays lousy bass. In some fashion, if you can make the speaker or speaker spacer mate up to that foam ring on the inside of the door panel, you will get lots better mid-bass and bass than if the speaker is bolted to the spacer, but not mating up to the back of the door panel.
I went through this a few years ago with the MB Quart 6's in my CR-V. I had to make sure that everything sealed before I could get bass or mid-bass - once I did, it was fine. What I have done in some other installs is use rubber weatherstripping tape from Home Depot. It's adhesive, and has a half-round shape that can fits on the edge of most car speakers.
But when you make your spacers and mount them, you gotta be precise and accurate, or stuff don't fit right.
#36
Originally Posted by Reach
His website is still working for me. Try again and make sure you don't have any toolbars or anything like that blocking content.
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