Proper material suggestions to fix panel buzz (NOT dynomat)?
#1
my acura sanctuary
Thread Starter
Proper material suggestions to fix panel buzz (NOT dynomat)?
Next project (rainy days) is to kill all the buzzing in my front door panels (I have no buzzing or rattling in my trunk!). My custom installed system sounds great but the poor engineering of Acura's door panels allows various parts of the door panels and other door components to BUZZ (an audible vibration) due to upper and lower bass frequencies. The doors are already dynomatted and there is no speaker rattle(I'm positive).
BTW this occurs even at volume level 8-10 with public radio talk shows and mellow music. So I am going to attack it but need your help.....
Plan/Goal:
1. Remove front door panels, disassemble inside door handles, control housings, etc.
2. Treat all the backside of all door panels with <mystery material>
3. Treat all the inside door handles with <mystery material>
4. Add <mystery material> to any other plastic-to-metal and plastic-to-plastic contact points (e.g. main switch housing)
*Materials must be long-lasting and non-heat sensitive
*Materials must be easy acquired in small amounts. i.e. Not wanting 200ft of some SuperXTape.
BIG Question:
Which materials(as many as needed) have been successful in the applications as described above?
My Setup:
°2006 TSX stock headunit (stock amp bypassed)
°Front + dash speakers: DLS UP6 components
°DLS CA41 classic amplifier @ 75 x 2 + 200 x 1 for Sub
°DLS MW110 sub in fiberglass enclosure in trunk.
°Front Doors and Trunk dynomatted
Thank you!
ed
BTW this occurs even at volume level 8-10 with public radio talk shows and mellow music. So I am going to attack it but need your help.....
Plan/Goal:
1. Remove front door panels, disassemble inside door handles, control housings, etc.
2. Treat all the backside of all door panels with <mystery material>
3. Treat all the inside door handles with <mystery material>
4. Add <mystery material> to any other plastic-to-metal and plastic-to-plastic contact points (e.g. main switch housing)
*Materials must be long-lasting and non-heat sensitive
*Materials must be easy acquired in small amounts. i.e. Not wanting 200ft of some SuperXTape.
BIG Question:
Which materials(as many as needed) have been successful in the applications as described above?
My Setup:
°2006 TSX stock headunit (stock amp bypassed)
°Front + dash speakers: DLS UP6 components
°DLS CA41 classic amplifier @ 75 x 2 + 200 x 1 for Sub
°DLS MW110 sub in fiberglass enclosure in trunk.
°Front Doors and Trunk dynomatted
Thank you!
ed
Last edited by subdued; 03-22-2007 at 07:57 PM.
#2
my acura sanctuary
Thread Starter
I forget that Azine has that weird 5 minute rule on editing.....
Just wanted to add that I am not looking for theories on what is causing the BUZZ. I am 95% sure(good enough for me) that it is material contact/transfer issues. I have repeatedly isolated the BUZZing, and by pressing down or squeezing parts of the door panels, the buzzing stops. That is how I know I have to go in from the inside to treat those areas.
In the end, I'll be happy if 75% of the buzzing goes away.
thanks again, ed
Just wanted to add that I am not looking for theories on what is causing the BUZZ. I am 95% sure(good enough for me) that it is material contact/transfer issues. I have repeatedly isolated the BUZZing, and by pressing down or squeezing parts of the door panels, the buzzing stops. That is how I know I have to go in from the inside to treat those areas.
In the end, I'll be happy if 75% of the buzzing goes away.
thanks again, ed
#3
This might work sandwiched between the door and door panel. I’m thinking of using it on the rear deck.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-318
jeff
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-318
jeff
#4
Senior Moderator
felt
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I'm actually about to embark on this project myself, this weekend!
I still have some remaining speaker rattles cause i didn't use dynomat/deadening in the first place
I'm also installing some new DLS UR6s speakers in the front, so it's good reason to redo the doors.
I'm going to line all of the door (the metal of it) with RAAMmat. I'm going to make sure to double, or tripple up around the speaker, and make sure to mat the actual bracket the speaker goes into as well. I'm also going to place some RAAmat behind the speaker on the inside of the door to help with back waves.
On top of all the RAAMmat i'm going to place a layer of eDead v4 .. which is just 1/4" closed cell foam.
On the inside of the plastic door panel, I'm going to paint it with eDead v3, which is a liquid sound deadener. I was going to mat it, but the idea of pressing mat through all those contours, and the added cost of another roll of matte was off-putting. So instead I'm going to paint the isnide of the panels I few times.
I know I get a lot of buzzing and resonance from around the door lock assembly, so I'm going to pay a lot of attention to that portion of the plastic door panel, and the metal door skin.
I'm going to make sure to wrap all wires in foam tape, and try and keep them down and not moving as much as possible. I might even use the eDead v3 to paint the door handle pull cable, assuming it doesn't prevent it from working.
it's gunna be a long weekend!
I still have some remaining speaker rattles cause i didn't use dynomat/deadening in the first place
I'm also installing some new DLS UR6s speakers in the front, so it's good reason to redo the doors.
I'm going to line all of the door (the metal of it) with RAAMmat. I'm going to make sure to double, or tripple up around the speaker, and make sure to mat the actual bracket the speaker goes into as well. I'm also going to place some RAAmat behind the speaker on the inside of the door to help with back waves.
On top of all the RAAMmat i'm going to place a layer of eDead v4 .. which is just 1/4" closed cell foam.
On the inside of the plastic door panel, I'm going to paint it with eDead v3, which is a liquid sound deadener. I was going to mat it, but the idea of pressing mat through all those contours, and the added cost of another roll of matte was off-putting. So instead I'm going to paint the isnide of the panels I few times.
I know I get a lot of buzzing and resonance from around the door lock assembly, so I'm going to pay a lot of attention to that portion of the plastic door panel, and the metal door skin.
I'm going to make sure to wrap all wires in foam tape, and try and keep them down and not moving as much as possible. I might even use the eDead v3 to paint the door handle pull cable, assuming it doesn't prevent it from working.
it's gunna be a long weekend!
Last edited by vasu; 03-23-2007 at 06:26 AM.
#6
my acura sanctuary
Thread Starter
vasu, yep sounds like a long weekend. thanks for the heads up on the eDeadv3 -didn't know about that. eDead v3 is not cheap though $50 a gallon. pics of eDead paint Good luck with the project. thanks for the info. hit us back when you're done and let us know how it went.
BTW, I plan to pick some of this sometime soon:
3m auto foam tape 3M Acrylic Foam Tape 4257 is a 0.38 mm (0.015 in) thick, gray, double-coated acrylic foam tape used in a variety of automotive applications....once I find it.
and the DLS UR6s speakers you are installing are great, gotta lotta punch and sound nice at the same time
mercman, that's pretty much sound deadening sheets. I already have that in the doors. thanks.
Yep, felt IS used in the auto industry. I'll pick some of that up too. but standard stuff from the Hardware store. I'll grab a variety and see what I need.
later, ed
BTW, I plan to pick some of this sometime soon:
3m auto foam tape 3M Acrylic Foam Tape 4257 is a 0.38 mm (0.015 in) thick, gray, double-coated acrylic foam tape used in a variety of automotive applications....once I find it.
and the DLS UR6s speakers you are installing are great, gotta lotta punch and sound nice at the same time
Originally Posted by mercman
This might work sandwiched between the door and door panel. I’m thinking of using it on the rear deck.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-318
jeff
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-318
jeff
Originally Posted by csmeance
felt
later, ed
#7
Stuff I've used:
V-Max: http://www.cascadeaudio.com/aut2_damper.html
Ensolite: http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=pr
Felt (part# 8770K3): http://www.mcmaster.com/
The damping sheet to thicken parts of the panel and the foam & felt to isolate the panel from the door. One thing that made a huge difference, putting felt on the rubber weather strip that runs across the top of the panel and touches the glass. If the door is well sealed, air is forced between the weather strip and the glass, resulting in vibration. I went overboard trying to kill vibration rattles, only to discover that this was the source of a lot of it.
V-Max: http://www.cascadeaudio.com/aut2_damper.html
Ensolite: http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=pr
Felt (part# 8770K3): http://www.mcmaster.com/
The damping sheet to thicken parts of the panel and the foam & felt to isolate the panel from the door. One thing that made a huge difference, putting felt on the rubber weather strip that runs across the top of the panel and touches the glass. If the door is well sealed, air is forced between the weather strip and the glass, resulting in vibration. I went overboard trying to kill vibration rattles, only to discover that this was the source of a lot of it.
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#8
Senior Moderator
some good stuff is from second skin audio, heres a linkLINKY
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