Which one would you guys recommend? I'm planning on changing my amp that powers the main speakers. right now i have an alpine MRV-F307...rms is 30w. i have the gain at max right now and when i turn up the volume, i start to get distortion and i think it's the lack of power of the amp. myer-emco here in VA, i think, carries both Precision Power and Jl Audio. I know JL Audios are good amps. i was thinking about the 300/4. but i'm curious about the precision power amps. are they any good? i'm not sure but i think they have one that's 4X80 rms. any comments......please?

 

Both are great amps. You cant go wrong with either one. You should look at which one gives u the best price. I do know that the JL amps have a lot of features. I would go with the JL amps personally.

Spiro

 

Well I love my JL amps I think PPI is ok as well. I dont know mutch about them but I do know that the JL amps have some nice features on them.

 

Personally, I'll go with JL. In fact, 2 are coming my way. They will get here by Tuesday . I bought a 300/4 and 250/1. However, you could run the entire system with just a 300/4.
Go here and look at sample layouts. I should have done my homework better
PPI was hot 'till they were bought. Last time I checked, PPI amps were made in a third world country.

On the side note, just wanna let you guys know I have sucessfully installed my screen in the Post-It note (CD) holder slot . It's pretty tough. I have to cut several things behind the dash to get it in. Now my system has 14 disc (6 stock+8 Panasonic changer). I'll work on the cover for the screen tomorrow. Will post pics once it's completed.

 

silver...where'd you order the 300/4 from. all the shops here in va are asking $500. can you let me know where and if they are any cheaper w/ shipping?

 

I wouldn't get a ppi unless you could find one from a couple years ago. They have really gone down hill.

 

I've got 3 older generation PPI amps, bought them when I was a senior in high school (1990!!!)

Very clean, powerful amps, and reliable too! Haven't had to have any work done on any of them and they're 12 years old now!

They used to be the best in the business.

But from what I've read in the above posts, if they have been bought out, then perhaps things have changed.

 

I got mine from seller in ebay. I paid 660 for both shipped. I think the 300/4 is 320. According to him, his amps are brand new, still in sealed boxes. Wait 'till I get my amps to see how they are then I'll hook you up.

 

icy CL - I had the MRV-F307, but I replaced it with the JL300/4 and it's a much better amp. Very clear and lots of power (for me at least). I saw it for around $420 online, but most retail stores sell it for ~$500. However, I've never had experience with the other amp, but I love my JL.

 

hey thanks silver for the source of the 300/4. i checked and did see his price was much cheaper. i haven't purhased one yet though. need more advice before spending a hard earned extra $500. instead of purchasing a new amp, i was considering getting a new head unit instead. the nakamichi mb-75 6 in-dash cd player. i was thinking about it last night.....right now i think the alpine amp produces a very clean sound. i would like more power, but....really, what i'm after is sound quality. so, i thought about the head unit....then maybe oruchase a more powerful amp later on. if i get the head unit, i can totlally bypass all the bose stuff. any of you hear anything about the nakamichi head unit? now i'm really leaning towards getting the new head unit but am still thinking about how to mount it, what face plate or cover to use around the head unit.....and other install issues. what do you guys think? spiroh....NOLA.....silver...etc.... advice...suggestions.

 

Ummm ... how about waiting for my experiment? I'm putting the stock head unit back in, mount the screen in the small CD holder slot. Solder RCA cables to the stock HU outputs ->EQ->JL amp.
I havent heard how the stock HU sounds w/o the damn Bloze amp. But I hooked up speakers directly to the screen and .. man ... it sounds pretty clean without an amp.
Be patient, I'm gonna have a report by next weekend.

 

Yeah...Right now I have my JL running from after the blowz amp. I am going to see If I can get it to the EQ without the blowz amp and have little to no hiss. But really I love that JL amp...and I have the 500/1 on the sub and it is damn sweet as well.

 

okay. my girlfriend asked me what i wanted for my b-day. i told her, this is what i want.... http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI...ndexURL=0&rd=1 . she said go ahead and get it and she'll pay for the whole thing. so i did!!! woo-hoo! can't wait....

 

You will love it

 

You will regret.











for not getting it sooner.

 

got the jl audio 300/4 wired up. love this amp. only one problem....i get the popping sound whenever i power of the radio. if i power down the amp first, i don't get the pop. i guess this has to do with the "turn-off delay" to the amp. if you want...read.... taken somewhere from the net....

"2.2 My system "pops" when I turn it off. What is happening and how can I get rid of it? [JD]
This kind of problem is often caused by transients in the signal processor as it powers down finding their way into the signal path, which the amplifier then transmits to the speakers.

Usually this can be solved by adding a little turn-off delay to the processor. This allows the processor to stay powered on for a short time after the amplifiers have powered down, thus preventing the pop.

Many components sold today (such as crossovers, equalizers, etc) have delays built-in. Read your manual to see if it is possible to set this delay on your piece of equipment or be sure to look for this feature during your next car audio purchase.

If your processor does not have this feature, you can build your own delay circuit with a diode and a capacitor. Add a 1N4004 diode in series with the processor's turn-on lead, striped side towards the EQ. Then add a capacitor in parallel, the (+) side of the cap connects to the striped (processor) side of the diode, the (-) side of the cap goes to ground (not the radio or EQ chassis - connect to the car chassis).

Experimenting with the cap value will give you the right amount of delay before the EQ shuts off. You don't want it too long, just long enough to make sure the amp is off before the EQ powers down. 220 - 1000 uF is about right, and make sure the cap is a polarized electrolytic, 16V or higher. Also keep in mind that the diode will introduce a 0.7V drop on the remote wire, which can cause the processor to power down before the rest of the system. "(end of quote)

now.....i saw the parts at radio shack but....can someone tell me how to wire this diode and capacitor to the remote turn on lead of the amp. or does anyone have any suggestions on how to get rid of this popping sound? i know i can wire a switch to shut off the amp before the hu and that would prevent the popping.....but i'd rather use that as a last resort. by the way......this amp sounds really nice...really....IMO! you all were right!!!

 

hey, I got the pop too, but I can live with it

According to the quote, you can find the schematic below. I have no clue why it should be connected to the EQ's wire. But anyway, here it is.

 

I dont think I have that problem...I will have to check. the only noise I hear is the slight hiss that I am hopeing to get rid of.

 

I got the hiss too but got rid of it using something from Radio Shack . It costed me 1.99 ... I'll charge NOLACLS 1,000 bucks to let he knows what it is

 

ARRR foker let me know hahahahaha. Will it work if i am still using the stock HU and the EQ?

 

Actually, you can lower the gain on your amp. The static hiss is there cuz the stock HU put a very weak signal. If you set the gain on your amp high then the noise gets amplified. I had to use the part from Radio Shack cuz I can crank up the gain on my amplifier for the screen since it puts out clean signal but at the same gain, I get the hiss from the stock HU so I use the part to control the outputs of stock HU. It's just a double-gang potential metter to control 2 channels from stock HU.

 

Well right noe the way it is hooked up is not the way I planr to keep it. The place that installed my EQ hooked it up wrong. Befor I got the EQ the amp was getting the signal after the stock amp with a LLC. When I got the EQ I wanted them to tap into the signal from right behind the radio befor the stock amp...instead they just got it from the LLC again...lazy bastards. I am going to go and have it put the way I wanted so we will see. The EQ will boost the weeks signal comming from the stock HU but I am wondering if there is anything else I can do to try to stop the hiss.

 

That's how I set mine up. Stock HU line level -> EQ -> Amp. The hiss still there, unless you turn down the gain on your amp. Right now, mine is set at half way.