Need help putting a system together
#41
Safety Car
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Originally Posted by elduderino
Please remember that boards aren't useful for this kind of evaluation, IMO.
Seas are quality drivers. Not sure about those xovers for car use. That's the funny thing... we focus on drivers a lot but sound is equally xover design.
The Alpine X-types are actually made by D-S-T, and are Vifa and Scna-Speak components.
Seas are quality drivers. Not sure about those xovers for car use. That's the funny thing... we focus on drivers a lot but sound is equally xover design.
The Alpine X-types are actually made by D-S-T, and are Vifa and Scna-Speak components.
Whats DST, Elduderino can u explain the differ bewteen a ring radiator tweet and a soft dome?
#42
I=X - optomos
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by elduderino
Seas are quality drivers. [color=redNot sure about those xovers for car use[/color]. That's the funny thing... we focus on drivers a lot but sound is equally xover design.
Im going early tommorow to check out those focals.
#44
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If you have a set of tweets, a set of mids, and a woof you have a three-way system.
You need a filter to take the bass out of the mids. Nowadays that's insude a 4-channel amp. 1/2 the amp plays bass, 1/2 plays everything else.
You need a filter to take the mids out of the bass. Likewise.
You also need a filter to take the highs out of the mids, and the mids out of the highs. If you have a four-channel amps, you don't have any channels or xovers left. (If youhad a 5 or 6-channel, maybe).
So you use passive xovers.
Every home speaker connected to a two-channel receiver uses passive xovers. Nothing wrong with them... the ultimate in systems don't use them, but that's pretty rarified air.
I'm going to make a suggestion. You want SQ, you are learning what that is and means, but you have some learning to do, and you seem to want pretty afdvanced gear. I would suggest you admit that you're not going to get everything perfect the first time, and do a system that is not the ultimate, but is very good. Then you can decide how you want to improve it.
Go with a basic box (good-sounding, but not custom glassed) and two-way separates, a HU, and a sub. Maybe the Zapco, nothing wrong with that, but maybe a good 4-channel or 3-channel that's less money.
If you shoot really high with no experience, it seems like it could be frustrating and difficult to navigate, as well as to tune.
Then you can redo it by adding an amp, by deciding what you think of the rear speakers, adding eq, etc.
You need a filter to take the bass out of the mids. Nowadays that's insude a 4-channel amp. 1/2 the amp plays bass, 1/2 plays everything else.
You need a filter to take the mids out of the bass. Likewise.
You also need a filter to take the highs out of the mids, and the mids out of the highs. If you have a four-channel amps, you don't have any channels or xovers left. (If youhad a 5 or 6-channel, maybe).
So you use passive xovers.
Every home speaker connected to a two-channel receiver uses passive xovers. Nothing wrong with them... the ultimate in systems don't use them, but that's pretty rarified air.
I'm going to make a suggestion. You want SQ, you are learning what that is and means, but you have some learning to do, and you seem to want pretty afdvanced gear. I would suggest you admit that you're not going to get everything perfect the first time, and do a system that is not the ultimate, but is very good. Then you can decide how you want to improve it.
Go with a basic box (good-sounding, but not custom glassed) and two-way separates, a HU, and a sub. Maybe the Zapco, nothing wrong with that, but maybe a good 4-channel or 3-channel that's less money.
If you shoot really high with no experience, it seems like it could be frustrating and difficult to navigate, as well as to tune.
Then you can redo it by adding an amp, by deciding what you think of the rear speakers, adding eq, etc.
#45
I=X - optomos
Thread Starter
Well Focal is out of the picture. Im going to use Seas lotus 2 way and Adire sub. Im also going to buy the 50 gallon bucket of QuietCoat and gut out the interior so I can apply it on as much of the car as possible.
Thank You for all your help guys!
Thank You for all your help guys!
#49
I=X - optomos
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by vidoprof
opt,
great choices.. let us know how the install goes... and post some pics...
You will love the zapco.. which one? Reference? COmp?
ryan
great choices.. let us know how the install goes... and post some pics...
You will love the zapco.. which one? Reference? COmp?
ryan
#50
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Given the level of SQ you seem to be looking for, if you are not getting the SP7, I would seriously recommend the SLB-TP4 4-channel Symbilink Balanced Line Transmitter. Put it in the same spot as the OEM amp in teh center console, and run Symbilink balanced back to the amp.
#51
I=X - optomos
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Originally Posted by elduderino
Given the level of SQ you seem to be looking for, if you are not getting the SP7, I would seriously recommend the SLB-TP4 4-channel Symbilink Balanced Line Transmitter. Put it in the same spot as the OEM amp in teh center console, and run Symbilink balanced back to the amp.
#52
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The SP7 has RCA in and Symbilink out. The other kink is that the SP7 is 2-channel, no fader, no xover. The SX has a fader and an xover, for a lot more money.
I REALLY like to use the fader as a woofer level control. The SP7 would obviate that... but if you go SP7 you can use the remote bass knob... : )
I REALLY like to use the fader as a woofer level control. The SP7 would obviate that... but if you go SP7 you can use the remote bass knob... : )
#53
I=X - optomos
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Hm, i'll have to price and compare the SP7 & Symbilink transmitter then.
Quick question: What is considered the sail panel in the car? They recomended the tweets be installed in the A-piller or sail panel.
Quick question: What is considered the sail panel in the car? They recomended the tweets be installed in the A-piller or sail panel.
#54
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Who's "they"?
Some people believe that the tweeter and woofer should be on the same plane.
I believe you have a TL, don't you? The location of the factory tweeter is on the inside of the mirror "sail" (it's shaped like one...)
Some people believe that the tweeter and woofer should be on the same plane.
I believe you have a TL, don't you? The location of the factory tweeter is on the inside of the mirror "sail" (it's shaped like one...)
#55
I=X - optomos
Thread Starter
The guy at mobilesq that sells the speakers. Now I know what he was talking about, but I dont have tweets in the sails. Actually I dont see any tweets in the car at all. I always figured it was a coax setup.
#58
I=X - optomos
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by elduderino
You HAVE heard these, right?
"If you are using tweeters with rear tuned chambers, fitting them onto the sail would be difficult. (Too deep.)"
Yes, the tweets I am getting are deep.
#60
I=X - optomos
Thread Starter
DLS Iridium, Focal Utopia, Boston Z6, Dynaudio, Rainbow, Morel, Seas Lotus where all the sets that were recomended by different individuals. I looked at all of them and made a choice based on quality, money, and credibility.
I decided to go with the Seas because they were reviewed as a set that had great ability in midbass(which Focal lacks) and their accuracy. Plus they are not as known as most of the other brands and I like to be different. They are also one of the few company's that produce their own speakers.
I decided to go with the Seas because they were reviewed as a set that had great ability in midbass(which Focal lacks) and their accuracy. Plus they are not as known as most of the other brands and I like to be different. They are also one of the few company's that produce their own speakers.
#61
I=X - optomos
Thread Starter
I got a question eld. On the 1000.4 zapco amp, would I be able to run a sub at 500w plus 2 front channels at 250 each or only 150 for the front & 500 for a sub? I ready to buy but m not sure about the bridging ability of the zapco's
#62
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(Funny I'm a resource for an amp I haven't sold in 15 years : ) Happy to help, though, and it is a good amp)
As far as I can tell from the web site, the 250 w pc rating is at 2 ohms. It's 150 w pc into 4 ohms. So if you bridged the back end, running it 3-channel, and showed the bridged channel a 4-ohm load, to a bridged set of channels each channel "sees" 1/2 the load you show it. So if you show it a 4 ohm load each channel would be "seeing" 2 ohms. So bridging a pair of channels into 4 ohms give you 2 ohms per channel for a total of 4, and you get 250W + 250W = 500W total off of the back side.
So my answer to your question is that I expect you to get 150 W + 150 W to the fronts, and 500W to a 4 ohm sub load.
As far as I can tell from the web site, the 250 w pc rating is at 2 ohms. It's 150 w pc into 4 ohms. So if you bridged the back end, running it 3-channel, and showed the bridged channel a 4-ohm load, to a bridged set of channels each channel "sees" 1/2 the load you show it. So if you show it a 4 ohm load each channel would be "seeing" 2 ohms. So bridging a pair of channels into 4 ohms give you 2 ohms per channel for a total of 4, and you get 250W + 250W = 500W total off of the back side.
So my answer to your question is that I expect you to get 150 W + 150 W to the fronts, and 500W to a 4 ohm sub load.
#63
I=X - optomos
Thread Starter
I was thinking of using the IDmax12 4ohm for the sub & running it at 500. I was hoping to run 250 to the Lotus comps but I might have to live with 150 unless I get another amp for the sub.
Well I better decide soon.
Well I better decide soon.
#64
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Originally Posted by optomos
Well I better decide soon.
The SEAS Lotus 6.5 comp set are rated at 100W RMS and 250 W max. Why would you want to run them at 250W continuous? As Dr Katz used to say, it's just a question...
#68
I=X - optomos
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by elduderino
Are you referring to bridging the amp to two single-voice-coil speakers?
Then yes, if that's the power you want.
They could also be dvc 4 ohm per vc speakers.
Then yes, if that's the power you want.
They could also be dvc 4 ohm per vc speakers.
Well I found out the 1000.4 zapco that I was planning on using would only be bridgable 1x500 @4ohms stable, which means I cant use the IDmax because its a dual voice coil Im ready to start pulling my hair out! The more I think about it the more tempted I am to go with dls.
#70
I=X - optomos
Thread Starter
I could use those. This guy is selling his competition c2k3.0x amp & SP7 but he wont give a definite price. He wants me to make an offer. Any idea on what I should offer him? He has the birth paper+registration card for both.
#71
I=X - optomos
Thread Starter
Well I bought the sp7. I ordered all the wires, dist. block etc from knukonceptz yesterday.
Eld, have another question about an amp. Since the IDMAX 12 dual 4oh requires 1000w rms or close to there what amp can I use to run it and how would I wire it. Would the c2k6.0x work?
Eld, have another question about an amp. Since the IDMAX 12 dual 4oh requires 1000w rms or close to there what amp can I use to run it and how would I wire it. Would the c2k6.0x work?
#72
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I am sure that that amp would work fine, but in reading their site and the review on that woofer, I don't get any idea that it needs that much power. You can run it with less IMO... where did you hear that? (Not arguing, just wondering if I've missed something...)
#73
I=X - optomos
Thread Starter
I think I read it on the forums at the site. I posted a question about using the c2k6 & the sub but no response from them. What im kinda confused about is how the dual voicecoil works and how you would wire one. I dont want to smoke whatever amp I get.
#74
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The amps you are talking about will not burn up with a low impedance, just shut down.
A dual voice coil is two speaker motors attached to one cone. Think of it as two woofers for wiring purposes.
A dual voice coil is two speaker motors attached to one cone. Think of it as two woofers for wiring purposes.
#76
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If you are asking if you can wire a pair of 2 ohm VC's in series to create a 4 ohm load, then yes, you can.
But I would describe it as (+) of VC one to (+) of amp , (-) of VC 1 to (+) of VC 2, (-) of VC 2 to (-) of amp.
But I would describe it as (+) of VC one to (+) of amp , (-) of VC 1 to (+) of VC 2, (-) of VC 2 to (-) of amp.
#77
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The IDMAX 12 is 1000W RMS.. or so their specs say.
I have heard the sub in a sealed enclosure in the trunk of BMW facing the rear of the car with a TON of "dynamat" with a zapco ref series 1000.1 going to it and it was LOUD.. and the trunk still rattled to all hell.
Ryan
I have heard the sub in a sealed enclosure in the trunk of BMW facing the rear of the car with a TON of "dynamat" with a zapco ref series 1000.1 going to it and it was LOUD.. and the trunk still rattled to all hell.
Ryan
#79
I=X - optomos
Thread Starter
I made this yesterday. It will hide all the equipment except the sub & it will still allow me to open the floor and get to the spare.
I just need to cut, fill, sand and carpet it. Anyone know where I can get carpet that will be a close match to whats in the trunk?
I just need to cut, fill, sand and carpet it. Anyone know where I can get carpet that will be a close match to whats in the trunk?
#80
El Presidente
Originally Posted by optomos
I made this yesterday. It will hide all the equipment except the sub & it will still allow me to open the floor and get to the spare.
I just need to cut, fill, sand and carpet it. Anyone know where I can get carpet that will be a close match to whats in the trunk?
I just need to cut, fill, sand and carpet it. Anyone know where I can get carpet that will be a close match to whats in the trunk?
I cant see the link