WHATS GOIN ON EVERYBODY......

NEED A LITTLE BIT OF HELP REGARDING THE FRONT AND REAR SPEAKERS ON AN 03 TL-S....

I JUST FINISHED REPLACING THE STOCK SPEAKERS WITH NEW ONES, BUT I WANT TO CONNECT A SPARE KICKER AMP THAT I HAVE TO THEM.....I REMOVED THE STOCK HEAD UNIT AND FOUND NO STEREO AMP BEHIND THERE TO TAP INTO THE WIRES...MAYBE THE AMP IS HIDDEN SOMEWHERE OR IS IT BUILT INSIDE THE HEAD UNIT ITSELF?..WHATS THE BEST/EASIEST WAY TO CONNECT THEM TO THE AMP I HAVE?

I KNOW HOW TO CONNECT EVERYTHING AND TAP INTO WIRE HARNESSES, I JUST NEED TO KNOW EXACTLY WHERE TO START..MY GUESS WOOD BE TAPPING INTO THE 20 PIN HARNESS THAT CONNECTS TO THE HEAD UNIT, BUT I HAVE THIS CHART THATS SHOWS WHAT EACH WIRE IS BUT IT SAYS SPEAKER AMP AND NOT THE SPEAKER ITSELF..



I BEEN SEARCHING THE FORUMS FOR A FEW DAYS ALREADY BUT I DON'T FIND ANY SIMPLE/HELPFUL INSTRUCTIONS.

THANX IN ADVANCE.

 

Did a quick search and pulled this up. Hope it helps

Running Power Wires

There is a grommet with a wire bundle way up above the emergency brake pedal. It comes out down behind the strut housing in the engine bay. It's a beetch but can be done. You have to make a new hole in the grommet on the engine bay side(very carefully to not cut other wires). Push your finger thru it from the cabin side and gently guide a coat hangar with a small looped end to not cut any wires. Once thru, pull it back with a strong piece of pulling string. Then use the string to pull in your new power cable. Also can use some liquid dish soap for a pulling lubricant.

Removing Rear Seats to access stock amp

The trick is to start with the one bolt holding the bottom seat on. It's located right behind where the seatbelt latches stick out on the driver's side. I think its 11mm, and you'll need a socket extension. Pull seat bottom up from front and remove. There are three more bolts holding the seatback on. (On the bottom, one on each side, and one where the other belt latch is mounted. Slide the seatback up a couple inches and it will come free. This takes a little effort.

Tapping Wire Harness for Remote and signal

Remove rear seat for access to stock amp. Unplug wiring harness to stock amp. Remove stock amp (optional) and stock sub(best practice) - leave wiring harnesses in place. The wiring harness that you unplugged from your stock amp contains an orange wire - this is your remote power turn-on for your new amp, so splice into it and extend it to your new amp. Run new fused power cable from battery to your new amp. Ground new amp to body. Inside the same wiring harness to your stock amp there is a twisted pair wrapped in a puke brown shield, splice into the two wires inside the brown shield with some 22 gauge twisted pair(long enough to reach your new amp) and solder (1) RCA connector to the other end. (Polarity doesn't matter) This RCA is your mono input to your new amp. Connect new amp to new sub and have fun.

Eliminating the LOC (Line Out Conveter box)

You do not need a LOC. Tap into the two wires in the sheath with another twisted pair cable long enough to reach your amp. On the other end of your new cable, solder (1) RCA connector to it. Polarity does not matter- 1 wire to pin, the other to shield. Assuming your amp is bridgeable and having read manual for mono operation, for most amps you connect RCA to your amp's left input and your sub to the outer most speaker outputs, usually L+ and R-. Make sure you amp's switches and such are set for mono/bridged operation and your sub are wired correctly(ohm wise) to match your amps specs.

 

Yea i did that to add a new sub and amp to stock hu....everythin is perfect....i just need to connect another amp i have to the speakers on the doors....(not subs)....

Unless ur trynna tell me that i can use that same harness, (used by the amp/sub) to connect my spare amp to the door speakers. (front & rear), ....which (to my understanding) cant be done.

 

the stock Bose unit has the amps inside it, get the metra harness for the after market head unit for the door speakers.

 

THANKS MAN...THATS EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED TO KNOW.

 

if you get the metra harness you will not have to put amps on the door speakers if your aftermarket head unit has good enough amps in it.

the metra harness will use the old Bose harness so you can use the stock Bose door speakers with out having to rewire.

 

Yea but the thing is that im keeping the stock headunit.

Does the 2 wires that i used for the sub and amp the same signal needed to power on the door speakers?....

If so then ill splice up another rca from the stock amp harness thats being used by my sub and amp to my second amp thats going to power the door speakers and run a speaker wire to the harness behind the hu and connect all negatives together and positives together so they power up all together.

Can it be done this way?