My Thoughts on Upgrading the TL's Bose System...
11-18-2000, 01:35 PM
#1
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My Thoughts on Upgrading the TL's Bose System...
I just took delivery of my new 2001 TL (Nighthawk Black Pearl; Parchment interior; 16" chrome Acura wheels). Although the factory Bose stereo is not bad as far as stock systems go, I do not think the sound quality is up to my standards. I am 46 years old, and have been an audiophile for almost 30 years. I have owned Thiel home speakers, Macintosh electronics, and many other fine systems over the years. I'd like to just give you my thoughts on upgrading the stock TL stereo system. I'll number my points so that if you have a specific question (or other suggestion for me!), it'll be easier to respond....
1. While I love hi-fi, and am also a musician (I play the piano), I would not put thousands of dollars into ANY car system. I've had some really nice-sounding car audio systems over the years that cost well under a thousand dollars.
2. The main reasons for #1:
a. Cars get stolen.
b. Cars get totalled.
c. People get tired of cars and buy new ones.
d. The $10,000 dream system in your present car may NOT be transferrable to your next car; keep that in
mind!!
3. As for the TL, I would NOT replace the head unit. Reasons:
a. It is a fairly decent unit made by Alpine.
b. The console is an odd shape and would NOT take a standard DIN-sized chassis without major mods
(something you do NOT want to do if you're leasing the car!!).
c. If I'm a thief, I'd rather steal a head unit that would fit in ANY car, NOT just the Acura TL.
4. I've done some research about the factory system. Facts:
a. The head unit is an Alpine am-fm-cassette-CD PREAMP ONLY with no EQ or amplification.
b. If you cut the twisted-pair wires out of the head unit, you now just have an Alpine preamp.
All the Bose components are in the doors (speakers) and the trunk (amp and subwoofer).
5. Bose Automotive #: 800-231-2673. Alpine: 800-257-4631; follow prompts for "application support group".
6. What I would do for my TL:
a. replace front door speakers with 6 1/2" 2-way components such as Polk, Boston, MB Quart,
Rockford Fosgate, JL Audio. (tweeters flush-mounted next to the door handles).
b. put coaxials in the rear doors.
c. Take out the sub and use a SEALED ENCLOSURE sub box with a 10" driver firing up into the hole
left by the factory sub you took out.
d. Use a five-channel amp such as the Sony XM-405. YES, Sony. If you must spend $600-800 or more on
amps, be my guest!
7. My take on amps: all they do is take a little signal and make it bigger. Amps do not have big bottom ends,
sound 'sweet' or whatever. What you think you hear is more likely the interaction between the other
components in your system!
8. When you spend more on an amp, you get a sturdier chassis, bigger output capacitors and heat sinks,
somewhat lower distortion figures, and BRAGGING RIGHTS.
9. The output of the Alpine head unit is a BALANCED LINE LEVEL signal running through twisted-pair
wiring. In order to feed this signal into an aftermarket amp, you need to:
a. buy a line converter such as the SoundGate LOC-B (www.soundgate.com).
b. use an amp, such as Xtant, that accepts balanced line inputs (the ONE reason for getting a
higher-quality amp, IMHO...)
10. As for subs; three types of enclosures:
a. sealed (tightest, cleanest and most natural-sounding bass, IMHO...)
b. ported (more efficient; tends to boom )
c. bandpass (the most bang for your buck, quite literally). I'll get a lot of flack on this, but... when a
teenager walks into a car audio store and says "I WANT SOME KICK-ASS BASS, DUDE!" to the
salesman, they usually steer him to a bandpass design.
d. free air: the type of sub design that is the stock Bose subwoofer with the inverted magnet.
Hope this helps; I'm just trying to help by giving you my thoughts and experiences... and hopefully steer you to a good system that doesn't require taking out ANOTHER LOAN on top of the one you probably already have for your TL!
1. While I love hi-fi, and am also a musician (I play the piano), I would not put thousands of dollars into ANY car system. I've had some really nice-sounding car audio systems over the years that cost well under a thousand dollars.
2. The main reasons for #1:
a. Cars get stolen.
b. Cars get totalled.
c. People get tired of cars and buy new ones.
d. The $10,000 dream system in your present car may NOT be transferrable to your next car; keep that in
mind!!
3. As for the TL, I would NOT replace the head unit. Reasons:
a. It is a fairly decent unit made by Alpine.
b. The console is an odd shape and would NOT take a standard DIN-sized chassis without major mods
(something you do NOT want to do if you're leasing the car!!).
c. If I'm a thief, I'd rather steal a head unit that would fit in ANY car, NOT just the Acura TL.
4. I've done some research about the factory system. Facts:
a. The head unit is an Alpine am-fm-cassette-CD PREAMP ONLY with no EQ or amplification.
b. If you cut the twisted-pair wires out of the head unit, you now just have an Alpine preamp.
All the Bose components are in the doors (speakers) and the trunk (amp and subwoofer).
5. Bose Automotive #: 800-231-2673. Alpine: 800-257-4631; follow prompts for "application support group".
6. What I would do for my TL:
a. replace front door speakers with 6 1/2" 2-way components such as Polk, Boston, MB Quart,
Rockford Fosgate, JL Audio. (tweeters flush-mounted next to the door handles).
b. put coaxials in the rear doors.
c. Take out the sub and use a SEALED ENCLOSURE sub box with a 10" driver firing up into the hole
left by the factory sub you took out.
d. Use a five-channel amp such as the Sony XM-405. YES, Sony. If you must spend $600-800 or more on
amps, be my guest!
7. My take on amps: all they do is take a little signal and make it bigger. Amps do not have big bottom ends,
sound 'sweet' or whatever. What you think you hear is more likely the interaction between the other
components in your system!
8. When you spend more on an amp, you get a sturdier chassis, bigger output capacitors and heat sinks,
somewhat lower distortion figures, and BRAGGING RIGHTS.
9. The output of the Alpine head unit is a BALANCED LINE LEVEL signal running through twisted-pair
wiring. In order to feed this signal into an aftermarket amp, you need to:
a. buy a line converter such as the SoundGate LOC-B (www.soundgate.com).
b. use an amp, such as Xtant, that accepts balanced line inputs (the ONE reason for getting a
higher-quality amp, IMHO...)
10. As for subs; three types of enclosures:
a. sealed (tightest, cleanest and most natural-sounding bass, IMHO...)
b. ported (more efficient; tends to boom )
c. bandpass (the most bang for your buck, quite literally). I'll get a lot of flack on this, but... when a
teenager walks into a car audio store and says "I WANT SOME KICK-ASS BASS, DUDE!" to the
salesman, they usually steer him to a bandpass design.
d. free air: the type of sub design that is the stock Bose subwoofer with the inverted magnet.
Hope this helps; I'm just trying to help by giving you my thoughts and experiences... and hopefully steer you to a good system that doesn't require taking out ANOTHER LOAN on top of the one you probably already have for your TL!
11-18-2000, 02:21 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
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supposedly pionner has something to do with the factory head unit
from what i understand sony amps are extremely cheap. but you know what your talking about, so im not going to disagree!
a pal of mine has a 5 channel sony amp. its actually SMALLER than my 1 and 2 channel alpine amps. i found that really weird
------------------
THE ONLY TL THAT MATTERS
99 Satin Silver TL
Custom Ractive Air Filter, Comptech Swaybars, PIAA 1500 XT, Alpine V12, Boston Accoustics 10' w/box, MTX Tweeters, Alpine CD Changer, Astro-Start 2006, Hands Free Kit, 35% Charcoal Tint, Silver Painted Calipers, Foot well Lights!, OEM wood gauge clusters, rear splash gaurds, block heater.
from what i understand sony amps are extremely cheap. but you know what your talking about, so im not going to disagree!
a pal of mine has a 5 channel sony amp. its actually SMALLER than my 1 and 2 channel alpine amps. i found that really weird
------------------
THE ONLY TL THAT MATTERS
99 Satin Silver TL
Custom Ractive Air Filter, Comptech Swaybars, PIAA 1500 XT, Alpine V12, Boston Accoustics 10' w/box, MTX Tweeters, Alpine CD Changer, Astro-Start 2006, Hands Free Kit, 35% Charcoal Tint, Silver Painted Calipers, Foot well Lights!, OEM wood gauge clusters, rear splash gaurds, block heater.
11-18-2000, 03:52 PM
#3
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Originally posted by Richie46:
I just took delivery of my new 2001 TL (Nighthawk Black Pearl; Parchment interior; 16" chrome Acura wheels). Although the factory Bose stereo is not bad as far as stock systems go, I do not think the sound quality is up to my standards. I am 46 years old, and have been an audiophile for almost 30 years. I have owned Thiel home speakers, Macintosh electronics, and many other fine systems over the years. I'd like to just give you my thoughts on upgrading the stock TL stereo system. I'll number my points so that if you have a specific question (or other suggestion for me!), it'll be easier to respond....
1. While I love hi-fi, and am also a musician (I play the piano), I would not put thousands of dollars into ANY car system. I've had some really nice-sounding car audio systems over the years that cost well under a thousand dollars.
2. The main reasons for #1:
a. Cars get stolen.
I just took delivery of my new 2001 TL (Nighthawk Black Pearl; Parchment interior; 16" chrome Acura wheels). Although the factory Bose stereo is not bad as far as stock systems go, I do not think the sound quality is up to my standards. I am 46 years old, and have been an audiophile for almost 30 years. I have owned Thiel home speakers, Macintosh electronics, and many other fine systems over the years. I'd like to just give you my thoughts on upgrading the stock TL stereo system. I'll number my points so that if you have a specific question (or other suggestion for me!), it'll be easier to respond....
1. While I love hi-fi, and am also a musician (I play the piano), I would not put thousands of dollars into ANY car system. I've had some really nice-sounding car audio systems over the years that cost well under a thousand dollars.
2. The main reasons for #1:
a. Cars get stolen.
Why I have insurance
b. Cars get totalled.
c. People get tired of cars and buy new ones.
d. The $10,000 dream system in your present car may NOT be transferrable to your next car; keep that in
mind!!
3. As for the TL, I would NOT replace the head unit. Reasons:
a. It is a fairly decent unit made by Alpine.
b. The console is an odd shape and would NOT take a standard DIN-sized chassis without major mods
(something you do NOT want to do if you're leasing the car!!).
c. If I'm a thief, I'd rather steal a head unit that would fit in ANY car, NOT just the Acura TL.
4. I've done some research about the factory system. Facts:
a. The head unit is an Alpine am-fm-cassette-CD PREAMP ONLY with no EQ or amplification.
b. If you cut the twisted-pair wires out of the head unit, you now just have an Alpine preamp.
All the Bose components are in the doors (speakers) and the trunk (amp and subwoofer).
5. Bose Automotive #: 800-231-2673. Alpine: 800-257-4631; follow prompts for "application support group".
6. What I would do for my TL:
a. replace front door speakers with 6 1/2" 2-way components such as Polk, Boston, MB Quart,
Rockford Fosgate, JL Audio. (tweeters flush-mounted next to the door handles).
b. put coaxials in the rear doors.
c. Take out the sub and use a SEALED ENCLOSURE sub box with a 10" driver firing up into the hole
left by the factory sub you took out.
d. Use a five-channel amp such as the Sony XM-405. YES, Sony. If you must spend $600-800 or more on
amps, be my guest!
7. My take on amps: all they do is take a little signal and make it bigger. Amps do not have big bottom ends,
sound 'sweet' or whatever. What you think you hear is more likely the interaction between the other
components in your system!
8. When you spend more on an amp, you get a sturdier chassis, bigger output capacitors and heat sinks,
somewhat lower distortion figures, and BRAGGING RIGHTS.
9. The output of the Alpine head unit is a BALANCED LINE LEVEL signal running through twisted-pair
wiring. In order to feed this signal into an aftermarket amp, you need to:
a. buy a line converter such as the SoundGate LOC-B (www.soundgate.com).
b. use an amp, such as Xtant, that accepts balanced line inputs (the ONE reason for getting a
higher-quality amp, IMHO...)
10. As for subs; three types of enclosures:
a. sealed (tightest, cleanest and most natural-sounding bass, IMHO...)
b. ported (more efficient; tends to boom )
c. bandpass (the most bang for your buck, quite literally). I'll get a lot of flack on this, but... when a
teenager walks into a car audio store and says "I WANT SOME KICK-ASS BASS, DUDE!" to the
salesman, they usually steer him to a bandpass design.
d. free air: the type of sub design that is the stock Bose subwoofer with the inverted magnet.
Hope this helps; I'm just trying to help by giving you my thoughts and experiences... and hopefully steer you to a good system that doesn't require taking out ANOTHER LOAN on top of the one you probably already have for your TL!
------------------
2000 Laguana Green / NAVI, 35% Mirror Tint all over,2 x JL12W6s, Pioneer Premier P920R, MB Quarts Coaxial, PPI 2600.2 and 4400.2 , Pioneer 620 6Disc
My Acura
11-19-2000, 10:08 AM
#4
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Richie, boy sounds like you did your research! i have been an installer for 12 years. i have moved on to a more respectable and better income line of work (computers) and i couldent agree with you more!
there too many people who have been brain washed into beliving that more is always better. most of the guys on this board cant seem to be happy with a nice 30K car but feel this overwhelming urge to modify their cars.
i too was unhappy with the stock system so far all i have added is tweeters.
i was thinking about adding a subwoofer and i have already got a box design printed here on my desk. i have a subwoofer program and i designed a 4th order bandpass that will hit from 28.5 to 87.8 Hz from a rockford XLC 10" sub. I was planning to run a port through the opening where the factory sub sits. the box itself is just over 1 cubic foot. i have been lazy and havent had the time to go the home depot for some MDF to build it yet. i am also still trying to decide if i really need more bass. the stock system seems to have better bass than i expected but it needs a little more low end thump. i have already identified the wires hooked to the factory amp for the stock sub and i have found that the remote turn on lead is a very low current signal. it would not turn on my hifonics hercules amp but i have a sony explode that i was planning to try. if that dosn't work then i will have to use a transistor to boost the current on that signal to turn on my amp. also i found the twisted pair you spoke of and ican attest that there is plenty of signal in the preamp to run an after market amp.
I also agree with using the stock head unit one of the things i dont miss about modifying my car and replacing the stock headunit is i dont want to attract the attention of theives. the guy in the previous post says thats what insurance is for and i agree. but if you have ever had anything stolen from your car the feeling of having your privacy invaded and knowing some ******* just made off with your shit laughing his ass off. not to mention the pain of getting it replaced, making the claim to insurance. is just more hassel than its worth! i am glad i can go to the movies now and not worry about my car the whole time thinking its getting jacked!
------------------
formerly 98 prelude type SH
Currently 2001 Acura 3.2 TL With Navigation Black/Ebony
there too many people who have been brain washed into beliving that more is always better. most of the guys on this board cant seem to be happy with a nice 30K car but feel this overwhelming urge to modify their cars.
i too was unhappy with the stock system so far all i have added is tweeters.
i was thinking about adding a subwoofer and i have already got a box design printed here on my desk. i have a subwoofer program and i designed a 4th order bandpass that will hit from 28.5 to 87.8 Hz from a rockford XLC 10" sub. I was planning to run a port through the opening where the factory sub sits. the box itself is just over 1 cubic foot. i have been lazy and havent had the time to go the home depot for some MDF to build it yet. i am also still trying to decide if i really need more bass. the stock system seems to have better bass than i expected but it needs a little more low end thump. i have already identified the wires hooked to the factory amp for the stock sub and i have found that the remote turn on lead is a very low current signal. it would not turn on my hifonics hercules amp but i have a sony explode that i was planning to try. if that dosn't work then i will have to use a transistor to boost the current on that signal to turn on my amp. also i found the twisted pair you spoke of and ican attest that there is plenty of signal in the preamp to run an after market amp.
I also agree with using the stock head unit one of the things i dont miss about modifying my car and replacing the stock headunit is i dont want to attract the attention of theives. the guy in the previous post says thats what insurance is for and i agree. but if you have ever had anything stolen from your car the feeling of having your privacy invaded and knowing some ******* just made off with your shit laughing his ass off. not to mention the pain of getting it replaced, making the claim to insurance. is just more hassel than its worth! i am glad i can go to the movies now and not worry about my car the whole time thinking its getting jacked!
------------------
formerly 98 prelude type SH
Currently 2001 Acura 3.2 TL With Navigation Black/Ebony
11-19-2000, 04:11 PM
#5
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Well having shit stolen does indeed sucks but thats a risk you take even with your car as a whole so I wouldn't let that stop me from making changes I would like. I think people like to modify their cars to make it feel more personal and have it stick out from other peoples. Its truely a matter of personal taste and everyone walks to the tune of a different drummer.
------------------
2000 Laguana Green / NAVI, 35% Mirror Tint all over,2 x JL12W6s, Pioneer Premier P920R, MB Quarts Coaxial, PPI 2600.2 and 4400.2 , Pioneer 620 6Disc
My Acura
------------------
2000 Laguana Green / NAVI, 35% Mirror Tint all over,2 x JL12W6s, Pioneer Premier P920R, MB Quarts Coaxial, PPI 2600.2 and 4400.2 , Pioneer 620 6Disc
My Acura
11-19-2000, 06:58 PM
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Well, MToker... Preludeshfan seems to have appreciated the point of my post, which was to help the people not really familiar with car audio make a more informed decision on upgrade choices... You on the other hand choose to ignore my intent (notice that my post is one of the longer ones on this board!), and give smug, smart-ass responses to my points one-by-one. Thanks!
11-19-2000, 09:46 PM
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Originally posted by Richie46:
Well, MToker... Preludeshfan seems to have appreciated the point of my post, which was to help the people not really familiar with car audio make a more informed decision on upgrade choices... You on the other hand choose to ignore my intent (notice that my post is one of the longer ones on this board!), and give smug, smart-ass responses to my points one-by-one. Thanks!
Well, MToker... Preludeshfan seems to have appreciated the point of my post, which was to help the people not really familiar with car audio make a more informed decision on upgrade choices... You on the other hand choose to ignore my intent (notice that my post is one of the longer ones on this board!), and give smug, smart-ass responses to my points one-by-one. Thanks!
And your welcome
------------------
2000 Laguana Green / NAVI, 35% Mirror Tint all over,2 x JL12W6s, Pioneer Premier P920R, MB Quarts Coaxial, PPI 2600.2 and 4400.2 , Pioneer 620 6Disc
My Acura
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11-20-2000, 12:33 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
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Hey Richie, the Bose unit does have an EQualizer! It is located above the h/u (not attached to the h/u) and there is a wiring connector going from the EQ to the h/u. In fact, the Bose stereo will not work unless that EQ unit is "plugged in". I've replaced everything except the Bose h/u.
11-20-2000, 03:08 PM
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hey tl daddy, can the eq be adjusted? what is its purpose if you cant adjust it? can you get any more info? do you have a helms that you could post a layout? it seems i keep hearing more and more about the stock system. it would be nice to see how it is all laid out from begining to end
thanks
------------------
formerly 98 prelude type SH
Currently 2001 Acura 3.2 TL With Navigation Black/Ebony
thanks
------------------
formerly 98 prelude type SH
Currently 2001 Acura 3.2 TL With Navigation Black/Ebony
11-20-2000, 03:22 PM
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hmmmmm TLDaddy... I *thought* I got the full story when I called Bose Automotive Division, but you proved me wrong!
Just to make sure I understand you...:
If you wish to leave in JUST the HU and connect it to aftermarket speakers and amps, are you saying you MUST leave this EQ instream? Or... can you connect the leads out of the HU to a line converter directly? Any sources for a wiring diagram or specs so that I can make sure my local car audio dealer does the job right?? Thanks!
Just to make sure I understand you...:
If you wish to leave in JUST the HU and connect it to aftermarket speakers and amps, are you saying you MUST leave this EQ instream? Or... can you connect the leads out of the HU to a line converter directly? Any sources for a wiring diagram or specs so that I can make sure my local car audio dealer does the job right?? Thanks!
11-20-2000, 05:39 PM
#11
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I am guessing that the EQ is kind of like a compressor of cut off of some kind. I think that is why we get some unaudible points when I crank up the system. Especially in the extreme highs and lows. I am also interested in that wiring info. I want to finally do my upgrades on the system and want to keep the stock HU. Thanks
11-21-2000, 06:25 PM
#12
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While this post has provided for some fairly amusing reading, I would like to know why Richie has spent the money on Mac amps in the home and then claims that all car amps are the same. Surely this is a blatant misrepresentation of fact. The tl is a car and the Escort is a car, they both get you from a to b, but they certainly aren't the same car. If Richie does not want to upgrade his headunit or anything else, that's fine with me, but let's save the surmons for Sunday mornings where people can choose to listen or not. I will never put NOS on my tl, but I will Never attempt to justify to anyone else why they shouldn't.
11-21-2000, 08:13 PM
#13
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Finally someone got my point.
------------------
2000 Laguana Green / NAVI, 35% Mirror Tint all over,2 x JL12W6s, Pioneer Premier P920R, MB Quarts Coaxial, PPI 2600.2 and 4400.2 , Pioneer 620 6Disc
My Acura
------------------
2000 Laguana Green / NAVI, 35% Mirror Tint all over,2 x JL12W6s, Pioneer Premier P920R, MB Quarts Coaxial, PPI 2600.2 and 4400.2 , Pioneer 620 6Disc
My Acura
11-23-2000, 10:31 AM
#14
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OK, AudiophileTL and MToker... can we just get back to the topic header... "thoughts on upgrading the stock system"!!
I suppose that since in my post, I poked fun at the idea of spending lots of $$$$$ on a car audio system, you guys chose concluded "well if HE can ridicule others, so can I"...
Again, if you re-read my post, my primary interest was in helping people get the most for their money. 'nuff said, OK???
So do you have any thoughts on the main topic? Both preludeshfan and TL Daddy brought up a point that I hadn't come across in my research:
The stock HU *DOES* have some sort of EQ- there is some unit attached to the HU that preludeshfan thinks is a loudness compensation circuit; TL daddy says the stock HU will NOT work without this unit. Have you guys been able to wire the HU directly to an amp, or via a line converter to an amp?
Thanks for any other info...
I suppose that since in my post, I poked fun at the idea of spending lots of $$$$$ on a car audio system, you guys chose concluded "well if HE can ridicule others, so can I"...
Again, if you re-read my post, my primary interest was in helping people get the most for their money. 'nuff said, OK???
So do you have any thoughts on the main topic? Both preludeshfan and TL Daddy brought up a point that I hadn't come across in my research:
The stock HU *DOES* have some sort of EQ- there is some unit attached to the HU that preludeshfan thinks is a loudness compensation circuit; TL daddy says the stock HU will NOT work without this unit. Have you guys been able to wire the HU directly to an amp, or via a line converter to an amp?
Thanks for any other info...
08-30-2001, 01:58 PM
#15
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Got your point
Hey Richie,
thanks for your helpful thread. i wanted to upgrade my stock system too without having to take out the HU. Your post was insightful and has helped me reinforce my own ideas for the upgrades.
I was a bit suprised that some people that read the post became defensive about their upgrade decisions and felt the need to state their rebuttals. It is not my desire to bring static to an already dead situation, however, it was fairly clear to me that you were only expressing your opinion followed by an explanation of logic for your points.
In anycase, back to the subject:
I wanted to stick with the stock HU simply because i'd like to keep the steering controls, and in dash changer in tact. I also did not want to cut any holes for any seperate component tweeters; just wanted to upgrade all the stock speakers including the sub. (my pref. in speakers are mb quartz, and i don't mind spending a little money on an adequate amp). i also wanted to be able to adjust the music level and was wondering if you had found a good setup for those of us who wish to keep the stock hu.
thanks for your helpful thread. i wanted to upgrade my stock system too without having to take out the HU. Your post was insightful and has helped me reinforce my own ideas for the upgrades.
I was a bit suprised that some people that read the post became defensive about their upgrade decisions and felt the need to state their rebuttals. It is not my desire to bring static to an already dead situation, however, it was fairly clear to me that you were only expressing your opinion followed by an explanation of logic for your points.
In anycase, back to the subject:
I wanted to stick with the stock HU simply because i'd like to keep the steering controls, and in dash changer in tact. I also did not want to cut any holes for any seperate component tweeters; just wanted to upgrade all the stock speakers including the sub. (my pref. in speakers are mb quartz, and i don't mind spending a little money on an adequate amp). i also wanted to be able to adjust the music level and was wondering if you had found a good setup for those of us who wish to keep the stock hu.
08-30-2001, 04:07 PM
#17
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I dont think it is necessary to upgrade Bose System, it has pretty good system, it is just not loud enough at the peak. But I still enjoy. I'd rather save money and buy better in the future and live the stock system. I would upgrade my audio if it wasn't Bose. I like bose!:o 
10-02-2001, 12:21 AM
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RICHIE..WHY DONT YOU JUST LET PEOPLE DO WHAT THEY WANT TO DO TO THERE CARS.....JUST BECAUSE YOU WOULDNT WANT TO CHANGE YOUR DECK..DONT TELL EVERYONE ELSE WHY THEY SHOULDNT... MAYBE PEOPLE WANT A BETTER SOUND SYSTEM IN THERE CAR...AND MAYBE THEY WANT TO CHANGE THE HEADUNIT...I THINK YOUR JUST TOO CHEAP TO DO ANY OF THIS STUFF...THATS WHY YOU RATHER GET A SONY AMP, RATHER A BETTER QUALITY AMP
10-02-2001, 12:24 AM
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RICHIE..WHY DONT YOU JUST LET PEOPLE DO WHAT THEY WANT TO DO TO THERE CARS.....JUST BECAUSE YOU WOULDNT WANT TO CHANGE YOUR DECK..DONT TELL EVERYONE ELSE WHY THEY SHOULDNT... MAYBE PEOPLE WANT A BETTER SOUND SYSTEM IN THERE CAR...AND MAYBE THEY WANT TO CHANGE THE HEADUNIT...I THINK YOUR JUST TOO CHEAP TO DO ANY OF THIS STUFF...THATS WHY YOU RATHER GET A SONY AMP, RATHER A BETTER QUALITY AMP...HOW CAN YOU SAY A SONY AMP IS GOOD ENOUGH..AND THERES NO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AMPS...SONY AMPS ARE GARBAGE...THEY WILL NEVER PUSH OUT WHAT THEY SAY..THEY HAVE A REAL LOW RMS...SONY AMPS ARE NOT EVEN ON ROCKFORDS LEVEL...ROCKFORD AMPS HAVE A HIGHER RMS THAN SONY EVER WILL....THERES ALWAYS A RISK OF THIEVES..REGARDLESS OF WHAT YOU HAVE...
TO EVERYONE WHO WANTS TO UPGRADE THERE SYSTEM..AND CAN DO IT...I SAY DO IT...JUST RESEARCH IN THE PRODUCTS FIRST..DONT LET PEOPLE LIKE RICHIE DISCOURAGE YOU..CAUSE HE DOESNT EVEN KNOW WHAT HES TALKING ABOUT...
TO EVERYONE WHO WANTS TO UPGRADE THERE SYSTEM..AND CAN DO IT...I SAY DO IT...JUST RESEARCH IN THE PRODUCTS FIRST..DONT LET PEOPLE LIKE RICHIE DISCOURAGE YOU..CAUSE HE DOESNT EVEN KNOW WHAT HES TALKING ABOUT...
10-02-2001, 12:06 PM
#21
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Richie,
The stock head unit is Pioneer. Opened it up to make sure. The nav system is alpine. stock speakers, eq, sub-amp and sub are bose.
Your plan to just use the HU's line level outputs feed to a sony amp will work fine. the eq can be bypassed and disgarded if you are planning to use a separate amp.
This is way the stock system is configued:
The HU has 2-ch line level outputs plus a sum and common output which are used for non-fading of the subwoofer. These signals are feed into the eq. the eq is located directly above the HU. the 2-ch output of the eq if feed back into the HU. The HU is where the front and rear amp resides. The eq also has an output that is feed to the sub amp (non-fading). The sub amp is located on the passenger side of the rear seat.
In your system, you would just need to pick off the 2-ch line level output of the HU before the eq. You would now have no fader control to the sony amp. But wait, you can regain the fader control by feeding back the HU output back into the HU and bypass the eq. then install a speaker level to line level converter to feed the sony amp.
You will need to bypass the eq to get a flat signal. the eq is needed to help the poor frequency range of the stock bose speakers.
One other thing, I had to install my 2-way component speaker's tweeter in the sail panel becasue the seat memory switch on the driver side took up the perfect door location.
hth,
-- pierre
The stock head unit is Pioneer. Opened it up to make sure. The nav system is alpine. stock speakers, eq, sub-amp and sub are bose.
Your plan to just use the HU's line level outputs feed to a sony amp will work fine. the eq can be bypassed and disgarded if you are planning to use a separate amp.
This is way the stock system is configued:
The HU has 2-ch line level outputs plus a sum and common output which are used for non-fading of the subwoofer. These signals are feed into the eq. the eq is located directly above the HU. the 2-ch output of the eq if feed back into the HU. The HU is where the front and rear amp resides. The eq also has an output that is feed to the sub amp (non-fading). The sub amp is located on the passenger side of the rear seat.
In your system, you would just need to pick off the 2-ch line level output of the HU before the eq. You would now have no fader control to the sony amp. But wait, you can regain the fader control by feeding back the HU output back into the HU and bypass the eq. then install a speaker level to line level converter to feed the sony amp.
You will need to bypass the eq to get a flat signal. the eq is needed to help the poor frequency range of the stock bose speakers.
One other thing, I had to install my 2-way component speaker's tweeter in the sail panel becasue the seat memory switch on the driver side took up the perfect door location.
hth,
-- pierre
10-02-2001, 06:38 PM
#22
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Originally posted by MToker
Well having **** stolen does indeed sucks but thats a risk you take even with your car as a whole so I wouldn't let that stop me
Well having **** stolen does indeed sucks but thats a risk you take even with your car as a whole so I wouldn't let that stop me
Richie, I agree with you on the sealed box.... The problem is with placement, without giving up too much trunk space!
Regarding the amp mods that you suggested, the mounting problems are quite significant as the stock amp is under the seat?? I feel feverish allowing some clueless audio shop removing my rear seats
BTW, I'm an audiophile too.... not quite in the league of owning Theil speakers (I wish!) but I do use B&W, Bryston, Rotel and other stuff I can afford!
10-06-2001, 10:15 AM
#25
Three Wheelin'
Why bash him for giving his ideas? I just picked up a 2002 TL and was interested in hearing ideas from everyone. I dont think his initial post was out of line, actual i found it useful.
Richie46, how far up the sail panels did you mount the tweeters, and what brand did you go with??
Richie46, how far up the sail panels did you mount the tweeters, and what brand did you go with??
10-06-2001, 08:02 PM
#26
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My Boston Acoustics ProSeries 6.2 speakers were supplied with 3 different types of tweeter mounts: flush, surface, and angle surface mounts. I used the angled surface mounts with the tweeter aimed slightly up and across to the far side. I mounted the "pod" as far forward as I could leaving about 1/4 inch clearance between the window frame and the top of the door panel to prevent any rubbing and sqeaking.
-- pierre
-- pierre
10-07-2001, 03:46 AM
#27
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I feel like I'm slowly becoming the guy known for huge posts here...so I'll go ahead and stick my nose in this one...
Before I start....PLEASE TELL ME NO ONE LISTENED TO RICHIE!!!
Richie46:
"d. The $10,000 dream system in your present car may NOT be transferrable to your next car; keep that in
mind!!"
->Uhm, all stereos are ALWAYS transferrable...give me a reason why not.
3. As for the TL, I would NOT replace the head unit. Reasons:
a. It is a fairly decent unit made by Alpine.
->It's not really all that decent, it has high THD, low power, few features, and an ugly color.
b. The console is an odd shape and would NOT take a standard DIN-sized chassis without major mods (something you do NOT want to do if you're leasing the car!!).
->Not true, you don't have to mod the Double DIN Hole at all...you would just need to make a form fitting piece that accepted standard DINs and fit into the hole in the car.
c. If I'm a thief, I'd rather steal a head unit that would fit in ANY car, NOT just the Acura TL.
-> Not true either, and the reason is because with an aftermarket stereo, you remove the faceplate, and it's worthless. With the stereo currently in it, all you do is rip it out, flash a chip and you're done...and who knows, some AcuraTL guy may even buy it. And it's shape can be changed by the way...with a different face.
c. Take out the sub and use a SEALED ENCLOSURE sub box with a 10" driver firing up into the hole
left by the factory sub you took out.
-> Exactly what I am doing, but a 10"? You have to be kidding...to push air out of that hole you'll need 3 12's...if you go less, then you WILL have to do the mods to the car you're so afraid of, to decrease the port size...or the bass will sound pathetic...analogy: If you push water through a huge pipe, there's not much pressure...but if you push the same amount through a small pipe....
d. Use a five-channel amp such as the Sony XM-405. YES, Sony. If you must spend $600-800 or more on
amps, be my guest!
-> If you know anything about amplifiers, then you'll know the Sony's are part of the all-bark-no-bite class. The reason they're so cheap is because they SUCK. All car audio installers, including myself, know this. They're marketed with such colorful ads and pretty body colors and features to make up for the lack of pushing power. And as for your $600-800 deal...I get Power 800.4 Rockford Fosgate amps (some of the best out there) for $300...so where is your number of $600-800 coming from?
7. My take on amps: all they do is take a little signal and make it bigger. Amps do not have big bottom ends,
sound 'sweet' or whatever. What you think you hear is more likely the interaction between the other
components in your system!
-> Ok, you're insane. You're right, they do take a signal and make it bigger...the problem is some amps favor some things over others. PPI's amplify base and leave the higher bass frequencies in the dust. JL's do the opposite. Rockford Fosgate is relatively linear, with a kick in the 80Hz and down range for the Power series. What about the THD in the system? The allowed Ohmage setups? A lot of what you hear is the amp...you're a total nut! Do your homework dude.
8. When you spend more on an amp, you get a sturdier chassis, bigger output capacitors and heat sinks, somewhat lower distortion figures, and BRAGGING RIGHTS.
-> Read above...I can tell you don't do this stuff alot
9. The output of the Alpine head unit is a BALANCED LINE LEVEL signal running through twisted-pair wiring. In order to feed this signal into an aftermarket amp, you need to:
a. buy a line converter such as the SoundGate LOC-B (www.soundgate.com).
b. use an amp, such as Xtant, that accepts balanced line inputs (the ONE reason for getting a
higher-quality amp, IMHO...)
-> Good reason to remove it
10. As for subs; three types of enclosures:
a. sealed (tightest, cleanest and most natural-sounding bass, IMHO...)
-> Not true...sealed is the LEAST natural sounding...by the sheer nature of the enclosure
b. ported (more efficient; tends to boom )
-> The most natural with proper tuning...the size and shape of the port is a key issue, as is the material used inside and dampening material.
c. bandpass (the most bang for your buck, quite literally). I'll get a lot of flack on this, but... when a teenager walks into a car audio store and says "I WANT SOME KICK-ASS BASS, DUDE!" to the
salesman, they usually steer him to a bandpass design.
-> In only one sense you're right...and there just barely. The most "bang for your buck" is if you're not looking for real bass. Bandpass uses the added pressure of sealed box and the "invisible sub" of the ported box to literally "pass bands". What this means is that the subwoofers will reproduce whatever small band you tune it to accurately (usually a 40Hz range) and will distort somewhat the rest of it. Additionally, they're the most dangerous of the three, in that you won't hear you subs make the "overpowered" sound before they blow...many a kid has blown his subs for just this reason.
Ya know...I have some really good audio books you may want to read...then you'd know what you were talking about. Also, I've been competing IASCA for years and winning a LOT, so I guess you can call me an audiophile as well. You were completely off about the factory system as well...
mrTL: he has no IDEA what he's talking about =)
preludeshfan: for an installer of 12 years, dude I am not impressed...you don't sound like you did your HW either. You'd know to put a good security system in the car, Lo-Jack etc. You'd also know that fiberglass boxes give you stronger resilience, are lighter, easier to create custom shapes, and help recreate more realistic bass than MDF...
MToker: I don't know what the hell's wrong with Richie...sounds like he is very sure of what he's talking about, too bad he's wrong in practically every respect. I didn't see you be a smart ass in any respect...it must be the fact that you disagreed with him...
SERVINN: Lose the caps dude, they're annoying...also lose the flaming...although I sound like an arse in this post, I don't dislike Richie, just his ideas, the fact that he laid them down as true when they weren't, the fact that some people may have taken his misguided advice, etc. But again, not him. So don't flame.
2002acuraTL: Speaking for myself, there's nothing wrong with him sharing ideas, but there is something wrong when he tries to pass off his info as backed by experience or something. Additionally, I dislike that he calls people smart asses for just nicely disagreeing with him, God knows how many times he'll call me that for this.
Oh and you won't spend $10k on a system...the audio side of my system cost a little under $1300. You may wanna check up on my posts when I'm done...maybe you'll learn a bit more.
Austin519
Before I start....PLEASE TELL ME NO ONE LISTENED TO RICHIE!!!
Richie46:
"d. The $10,000 dream system in your present car may NOT be transferrable to your next car; keep that in
mind!!"
->Uhm, all stereos are ALWAYS transferrable...give me a reason why not.
3. As for the TL, I would NOT replace the head unit. Reasons:
a. It is a fairly decent unit made by Alpine.
->It's not really all that decent, it has high THD, low power, few features, and an ugly color.
b. The console is an odd shape and would NOT take a standard DIN-sized chassis without major mods (something you do NOT want to do if you're leasing the car!!).
->Not true, you don't have to mod the Double DIN Hole at all...you would just need to make a form fitting piece that accepted standard DINs and fit into the hole in the car.
c. If I'm a thief, I'd rather steal a head unit that would fit in ANY car, NOT just the Acura TL.
-> Not true either, and the reason is because with an aftermarket stereo, you remove the faceplate, and it's worthless. With the stereo currently in it, all you do is rip it out, flash a chip and you're done...and who knows, some AcuraTL guy may even buy it. And it's shape can be changed by the way...with a different face.
c. Take out the sub and use a SEALED ENCLOSURE sub box with a 10" driver firing up into the hole
left by the factory sub you took out.
-> Exactly what I am doing, but a 10"? You have to be kidding...to push air out of that hole you'll need 3 12's...if you go less, then you WILL have to do the mods to the car you're so afraid of, to decrease the port size...or the bass will sound pathetic...analogy: If you push water through a huge pipe, there's not much pressure...but if you push the same amount through a small pipe....
d. Use a five-channel amp such as the Sony XM-405. YES, Sony. If you must spend $600-800 or more on
amps, be my guest!
-> If you know anything about amplifiers, then you'll know the Sony's are part of the all-bark-no-bite class. The reason they're so cheap is because they SUCK. All car audio installers, including myself, know this. They're marketed with such colorful ads and pretty body colors and features to make up for the lack of pushing power. And as for your $600-800 deal...I get Power 800.4 Rockford Fosgate amps (some of the best out there) for $300...so where is your number of $600-800 coming from?
7. My take on amps: all they do is take a little signal and make it bigger. Amps do not have big bottom ends,
sound 'sweet' or whatever. What you think you hear is more likely the interaction between the other
components in your system!
-> Ok, you're insane. You're right, they do take a signal and make it bigger...the problem is some amps favor some things over others. PPI's amplify base and leave the higher bass frequencies in the dust. JL's do the opposite. Rockford Fosgate is relatively linear, with a kick in the 80Hz and down range for the Power series. What about the THD in the system? The allowed Ohmage setups? A lot of what you hear is the amp...you're a total nut! Do your homework dude.
8. When you spend more on an amp, you get a sturdier chassis, bigger output capacitors and heat sinks, somewhat lower distortion figures, and BRAGGING RIGHTS.
-> Read above...I can tell you don't do this stuff alot
9. The output of the Alpine head unit is a BALANCED LINE LEVEL signal running through twisted-pair wiring. In order to feed this signal into an aftermarket amp, you need to:
a. buy a line converter such as the SoundGate LOC-B (www.soundgate.com).
b. use an amp, such as Xtant, that accepts balanced line inputs (the ONE reason for getting a
higher-quality amp, IMHO...)
-> Good reason to remove it
10. As for subs; three types of enclosures:
a. sealed (tightest, cleanest and most natural-sounding bass, IMHO...)
-> Not true...sealed is the LEAST natural sounding...by the sheer nature of the enclosure
b. ported (more efficient; tends to boom )
-> The most natural with proper tuning...the size and shape of the port is a key issue, as is the material used inside and dampening material.
c. bandpass (the most bang for your buck, quite literally). I'll get a lot of flack on this, but... when a teenager walks into a car audio store and says "I WANT SOME KICK-ASS BASS, DUDE!" to the
salesman, they usually steer him to a bandpass design.
-> In only one sense you're right...and there just barely. The most "bang for your buck" is if you're not looking for real bass. Bandpass uses the added pressure of sealed box and the "invisible sub" of the ported box to literally "pass bands". What this means is that the subwoofers will reproduce whatever small band you tune it to accurately (usually a 40Hz range) and will distort somewhat the rest of it. Additionally, they're the most dangerous of the three, in that you won't hear you subs make the "overpowered" sound before they blow...many a kid has blown his subs for just this reason.
Ya know...I have some really good audio books you may want to read...then you'd know what you were talking about. Also, I've been competing IASCA for years and winning a LOT, so I guess you can call me an audiophile as well. You were completely off about the factory system as well...
mrTL: he has no IDEA what he's talking about =)
preludeshfan: for an installer of 12 years, dude I am not impressed...you don't sound like you did your HW either. You'd know to put a good security system in the car, Lo-Jack etc. You'd also know that fiberglass boxes give you stronger resilience, are lighter, easier to create custom shapes, and help recreate more realistic bass than MDF...
MToker: I don't know what the hell's wrong with Richie...sounds like he is very sure of what he's talking about, too bad he's wrong in practically every respect. I didn't see you be a smart ass in any respect...it must be the fact that you disagreed with him...
SERVINN: Lose the caps dude, they're annoying...also lose the flaming...although I sound like an arse in this post, I don't dislike Richie, just his ideas, the fact that he laid them down as true when they weren't, the fact that some people may have taken his misguided advice, etc. But again, not him. So don't flame.
2002acuraTL: Speaking for myself, there's nothing wrong with him sharing ideas, but there is something wrong when he tries to pass off his info as backed by experience or something. Additionally, I dislike that he calls people smart asses for just nicely disagreeing with him, God knows how many times he'll call me that for this.
Oh and you won't spend $10k on a system...the audio side of my system cost a little under $1300. You may wanna check up on my posts when I'm done...maybe you'll learn a bit more.
Austin519
10-08-2001, 01:04 PM
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ok..austin519 mr. rent-a-cop, im annoying..you should read the things your saying...then think about whose annoying or not.. why dont you stop being a rent-a-cop trying to solve everyones problems...maybe you dont dislike richie..but i dont...so i could flame all i want...and i dislike you for your post...so ima flame on you as much as i want..you little rent-a-cop...just mind your own business...get your nose out of everyones a55...you little brown noser...
10-08-2001, 07:55 PM
#29
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Wow Servinn...you sound so mature. I'm guessing you're...13? 12? Something like that.
"austin519 mr. rent-a-cop"
"why dont you stop being a rent-a-cop"
"you little rent-a-cop"
So did you learn a new word little boy? Did you hear that from your prepubescent friends or did you actually pick that up on the forums? Either way, at least know how to use the term idiot.
"why dont you stop being a rent-a-cop trying to solve everyones problems"
Hmmm...interesting...you totally misuse the slang "rent-a-cop" while simultaneously ***** me out for offering advice. Maybe you're not familiar that this forum is for people sharing and disputing ideas, and giving each other advice.
"maybe you dont dislike richie..but i dont...so i could flame all i want...and i dislike you for your post...so ima flame on you as much as i want.."
Wow...yeah that made a lot of sense...between your middle school spelling and tone I can only guess you meant "maybe you don't dislike richie..but I do". In which case you may want to get your 7th grade english teacher to proofread your posts, or at least learn how to spell correctly..."ima flame on you as much as I want" ha ha ha that's pitiful.
"just mind your own business..."
Well, this was a post to the forum...I am a member of the forum...therefore it is as much my business as yours.
"get your nose out of everyones a55...you little brown noser..."
Ah yes, now I know you're a little kid. Reading and responding to posts doesn't mean I have my nose in everyone's @$$ you prick. Oh and a brown-noser is someone who sucks up to others, not someone who is nosey.
So obviously you're some bratty little child, who doesn't belong here and doesn't know anything. From your posts in this thread all I can see is that you like to make unbased arguments in caps with no relevant facts supporting them, just because you like to argue.
I told you not to flame because it isn't a constructive thing in the forum, it helps no one, and it only creates garbage on the site. Yes, you can flame as much as you want, to whoever you want...but you'll only look like a little kid for it, as you do now. But congratulations.
If you disagree with Richie, as I did, instead of saying "IT LOOKS LIKE MR. KNOW IT ALL RICHIE..DOESNT KNOW IT ALL", you could do what I did, and explain why. But instead you're rather make a stupid, bratty comment eh?
And from your quote: "RICHIE..WHY DONT YOU JUST LET PEOPLE DO WHAT THEY WANT TO DO TO THERE CARS.....JUST BECAUSE YOU WOULDNT WANT TO CHANGE YOUR DECK..DONT TELL EVERYONE ELSE WHY THEY SHOULDNT... MAYBE PEOPLE WANT A BETTER SOUND SYSTEM IN THERE CAR"...I can tell you have absolutely no concept of the forum here. Richie started a thread...HIS thread, entitled "My Thoughts on Upgrading the TL's Bose System... ". Nowhere in there did he say "YOU HAVE TO DO THIS!" or any such thing. He just offered his ideas, which can either be helpful or not helpful, which is a personal opinion either way.
So SERVINN, in conclusion, grow some manhood eh? No one listened to any of your posts, and no one even really replied save me...and I'm surprised I even did...your post didn't deserve any replies. I am sure that you'll have some childish comment to this post, but I'm done with you, no more replies...so flame until your heart's content. But I will be happy to report you to a moderator...
Let me know when you mature,
Austin519
"austin519 mr. rent-a-cop"
"why dont you stop being a rent-a-cop"
"you little rent-a-cop"
So did you learn a new word little boy? Did you hear that from your prepubescent friends or did you actually pick that up on the forums? Either way, at least know how to use the term idiot.
"why dont you stop being a rent-a-cop trying to solve everyones problems"
Hmmm...interesting...you totally misuse the slang "rent-a-cop" while simultaneously ***** me out for offering advice. Maybe you're not familiar that this forum is for people sharing and disputing ideas, and giving each other advice.
"maybe you dont dislike richie..but i dont...so i could flame all i want...and i dislike you for your post...so ima flame on you as much as i want.."
Wow...yeah that made a lot of sense...between your middle school spelling and tone I can only guess you meant "maybe you don't dislike richie..but I do". In which case you may want to get your 7th grade english teacher to proofread your posts, or at least learn how to spell correctly..."ima flame on you as much as I want" ha ha ha that's pitiful.
"just mind your own business..."
Well, this was a post to the forum...I am a member of the forum...therefore it is as much my business as yours.
"get your nose out of everyones a55...you little brown noser..."
Ah yes, now I know you're a little kid. Reading and responding to posts doesn't mean I have my nose in everyone's @$$ you prick. Oh and a brown-noser is someone who sucks up to others, not someone who is nosey.
So obviously you're some bratty little child, who doesn't belong here and doesn't know anything. From your posts in this thread all I can see is that you like to make unbased arguments in caps with no relevant facts supporting them, just because you like to argue.
I told you not to flame because it isn't a constructive thing in the forum, it helps no one, and it only creates garbage on the site. Yes, you can flame as much as you want, to whoever you want...but you'll only look like a little kid for it, as you do now. But congratulations.
If you disagree with Richie, as I did, instead of saying "IT LOOKS LIKE MR. KNOW IT ALL RICHIE..DOESNT KNOW IT ALL", you could do what I did, and explain why. But instead you're rather make a stupid, bratty comment eh?
And from your quote: "RICHIE..WHY DONT YOU JUST LET PEOPLE DO WHAT THEY WANT TO DO TO THERE CARS.....JUST BECAUSE YOU WOULDNT WANT TO CHANGE YOUR DECK..DONT TELL EVERYONE ELSE WHY THEY SHOULDNT... MAYBE PEOPLE WANT A BETTER SOUND SYSTEM IN THERE CAR"...I can tell you have absolutely no concept of the forum here. Richie started a thread...HIS thread, entitled "My Thoughts on Upgrading the TL's Bose System... ". Nowhere in there did he say "YOU HAVE TO DO THIS!" or any such thing. He just offered his ideas, which can either be helpful or not helpful, which is a personal opinion either way.
So SERVINN, in conclusion, grow some manhood eh? No one listened to any of your posts, and no one even really replied save me...and I'm surprised I even did...your post didn't deserve any replies. I am sure that you'll have some childish comment to this post, but I'm done with you, no more replies...so flame until your heart's content. But I will be happy to report you to a moderator...
Let me know when you mature,
Austin519
10-08-2001, 10:22 PM
#30
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woooo..your going to report me to the moderator....ok im scared now...your going to report me to a moderator... cause you cant handle anything for yourself...cause your a little punk....so just back up before you get served on...why dont you let me know when you get some balls...
10-09-2001, 01:03 AM
#32
Instructor
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proof-read, servinn, because crap like this takes away all your credibility, if you had any to begin with
j/k
I don' like to be mean, its just that some people enjoy making others mad (I hate that).
j/k
I don' like to be mean, its just that some people enjoy making others mad (I hate that).
10-09-2001, 11:49 PM
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co-TLS why dont you mind your own F-ing business...my beef was only with austin..but now everyone has to open there mouth with a F-ing opinion...if i wanted your opinion i would ask you..and it doesnt like i asked you for a damm thing... so what if my grammar is messed up..im not in school...so i dont really have to impress anyone...i dont care about any credibility with you guys....you just built your credibility up to being a fa6...mind your own F-ing business...it looks like austin cant handle things for himself...and that he needs this little prick co-tls to back him up...
Austin grow some balls
Co-tls mind your own business
Austin grow some balls
Co-tls mind your own business
10-10-2001, 12:51 AM
#34
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You've made it my business by posting on this public forum. I am not trying to ***** at you, just try and be a little nicer and people will treat you with respect. If you want to be known as an a$$, keep doing what you are doing. Personally, i dont give a $hit about what you do, just try to be nice to others on this forum, IMO.
10-10-2001, 11:16 AM
#35
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CO-TLS:
Ha, just replying to his crap has advanced me to Silver level...heh. Don't you love how now his beef is with me, when before it was with Richie...<sigh>. I don't think he understands the idea of "public" forum. And now that we've made him look like an idiot to everyone we're now considered f@gs. Just love it. Reminds me of my little brother when he was 10. And now that you agree with me you're "backing me up". We're in some conspiracy CO-TLS...hahaha. It keeps getting better and better. Soon his beef won't be with me, it'll be with you! So watch out!!! <aaaaaaaah>
Austin519
Ha, just replying to his crap has advanced me to Silver level...heh. Don't you love how now his beef is with me, when before it was with Richie...<sigh>. I don't think he understands the idea of "public" forum. And now that we've made him look like an idiot to everyone we're now considered f@gs. Just love it. Reminds me of my little brother when he was 10. And now that you agree with me you're "backing me up". We're in some conspiracy CO-TLS...hahaha. It keeps getting better and better. Soon his beef won't be with me, it'll be with you! So watch out!!! <aaaaaaaah>
Austin519
10-10-2001, 03:16 PM
#36
10th Gear
Join Date: Oct 2001
Age: 41
Posts: 12
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F*** you *****es...ya aint nothin but a little F-ing girls...why dont you guys stand up for yourself...how'd you make me look like an idiot? i know i made you guys look like some little F-ing fa6s....why dont you guys grow some F-ing balls...you scared *****es...ill F both you up..... ill F your little brother up too austin....bring your whole family...ill mess em all up...you made a mistake messing with me.....look what you started now
10-10-2001, 06:48 PM
#38
10th Gear
Join Date: Oct 2001
Age: 41
Posts: 12
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how long did it take for you to find that on the internet?? you think im not as smart as you F-ers..... you dont know me...for all you know im probably smarter than you...just because i dont chose to talk like a F-ing little school boy all the time..doesnt mean i aint smart....
as the famous rapper 2pac once said..
"shut the **** up before you get smack the **** up"
thats what you ought to do
as the famous rapper 2pac once said..
"shut the **** up before you get smack the **** up"
thats what you ought to do