warriorxc

I did a little geomorty this weekend and finally mounted a sub... love Planet Audio... in the trunk of the TSX. Factory boxes SUCK! Figured I would keep my trunk and still have some sound.

02AEMCL

would you mind doin a write up on how you made the box, for those of us who dont want to use fiberglass, or did you use fiberglass?

zidenx

iTrader: (1)

it's made from mdf wood just like the title says.

warriorxc

Here is what I've got...
Materials: 1 sheet 3/4 inch MDF ($40), Jig saw, silicone caulking, drill gun, tape measure, large cardboard box, countersink drill bit, wood screws, straight edge, patience.

Total cost: $50 or less
Total time: varies... I took about 8 hours because I was patient and wanted it to look nice and fit well. (Does not include drying time.)

First, use the carboard to cut out the aprrox. templates for the base and the top of the box you want to build. The hard part is that cardboard will bend, while MDF will not.

Cut the matching MDF top and bottom pieces using your straight edge and saw. I used a circular saw, but you can jig saw them. Test the fit and trim accordingly.

Using your wood top and bottom, figure out the various sides of the box with more cardboard. I also figured out the face at this point but you can wait if you wish.

Cuts the pices that you need, but be aware that you will need to mitre cut them later to create the angles that maych the TSX. (this wil be the hardest part as none of the match.)

Once you are satisfied with the sides of the box, and if their fit is close, you need to figure out the degree of mitre cut to make so that the angles will adjust. If you choose to angle back, as I did, you might opt to match the face of the box. I did not match the two angles, because the back of the box is simple too steep for my liking. (TIP: all the angles are different on my box, and they might be on yours as well... TAKE YOUR TIME!)

Now pre-drill all the holes for the wood screws and counter sink them in so they will not show during carpet install. If you don't pre drill, the wood WILL split!

Once the box is assembled (leave the face off), you can use you silicone caulking to seal all the joints on the inside. Use ample silicone, and make sure that you let it dry... be patient... silicone fumes can damage the speaker.

Measure out the size of the hole you will need for you speaker, and use the jig saw to make your cut. Using the same methos of pre-drilling, attatch the face od the box. Before you sink the screws, run a bead of silicone around the rim of the open part of your box, then when place the face on and sink the screws, your joints wil be sealed from the inside.

LET IT DRY!!

Using a thin, strong glue, coat the box, or use key areas and stretch the auto carpet over the entire box. I started by pulling the face very tight and using my adept skills at wrapping X-mas presents... this is a trial by fire issue. If all else fails, nobody will see the back of the box??

Wire up your speaker and place it in the box using the provided instructions or look online to find out how.

Measurements (approx) of my box:
18" wide at top of face & 21" at bottom
8" deep at bottom & 8.75" at top
tail light side 10" long on base ??? at the top
rear seat side 11"at base and ??? at top.

10" sub with 200W RMS from Rockford fosgate 400Watt amp bridged and turned al the way down.

I wish I could have gone a little bigger, but it hits nice and I can stil carry a very full trunk of whatever I need.

smooth CL-in

very creative, nice and neat. what are the spec's of the enclosure? total volume or cubic feet for the sub?