which JL's should Stephy get?
03-22-2005, 02:44 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by Scott P
I am Scott P.
You will have to forgive me for not noticing this post sooner. Nonetheless it seems to me that you are lloking for a good sql style system on a bit of a budget. As far as it sounds you wouldn't want to spend the money for an M3 sub from Memphis. As far as comparisons go this is how you ought to look at JL v. Memphis
W7 = well nothing. JL went out of there way to construct this driver and to be honest there are very few companies that come close to competing with it. Unfortunately that compition comes with a fairly hefty price tag.
W6v2 = M3
Personally in hearing the two I think i might give a miniscule edge to the JL sub, but when you factor in price, average listening, etc I would venture to say the M3 sub is a better deal. Don't get me wrong I'm not going to say that it's a better sub. That is pretty much a subjective thing that each person is going to have determine on their own.
w3v2 = MClass
I'll be the first to admit I really haven't played much with the new w3's. What I can tell you is that the MClass subs are meant to primarily be run in small sealed enclosures and that even though you don't get as much overall output out of these subs you do get a great SQ expirience. These are the subs that recommend to my customers here in town that have that true audiophile ear...
w1/w0 = PR
I really know nothing about the JL entry level stuff other than other's opinions on them, as for the memphis stuff, it is entry level. Great for the price, but remember it's usually true in Car audio that you get what you pay for. . . .
I must say that I am fairly biased towards Memphis produscts given the hometown effect and the fact that as a company they go out of their way to take care me personally as well as my company. That being said I actually am not running any of their equipment in my car at the moment, and I'v never used any of their subs in my car
If you are feeling expirimental, do what I did. I took a flyer and tried Elemental Designs. I ordered a 12k a little over a year ago on a whim and in my eyes there hasn't been much to sway me that dollar for dollar there is anything better than it on the market. Best of all I go head to head against kids with multiple subs and 8-1200 watts and either beat them out or turn their heads when they see I'm running 1 12 off 200w of power. . .
So many decisions. . . .
You will have to forgive me for not noticing this post sooner. Nonetheless it seems to me that you are lloking for a good sql style system on a bit of a budget. As far as it sounds you wouldn't want to spend the money for an M3 sub from Memphis. As far as comparisons go this is how you ought to look at JL v. Memphis
W7 = well nothing. JL went out of there way to construct this driver and to be honest there are very few companies that come close to competing with it. Unfortunately that compition comes with a fairly hefty price tag.
W6v2 = M3
Personally in hearing the two I think i might give a miniscule edge to the JL sub, but when you factor in price, average listening, etc I would venture to say the M3 sub is a better deal. Don't get me wrong I'm not going to say that it's a better sub. That is pretty much a subjective thing that each person is going to have determine on their own.
w3v2 = MClass
I'll be the first to admit I really haven't played much with the new w3's. What I can tell you is that the MClass subs are meant to primarily be run in small sealed enclosures and that even though you don't get as much overall output out of these subs you do get a great SQ expirience. These are the subs that recommend to my customers here in town that have that true audiophile ear...
w1/w0 = PR
I really know nothing about the JL entry level stuff other than other's opinions on them, as for the memphis stuff, it is entry level. Great for the price, but remember it's usually true in Car audio that you get what you pay for. . . .
I must say that I am fairly biased towards Memphis produscts given the hometown effect and the fact that as a company they go out of their way to take care me personally as well as my company. That being said I actually am not running any of their equipment in my car at the moment, and I'v never used any of their subs in my car
If you are feeling expirimental, do what I did. I took a flyer and tried Elemental Designs. I ordered a 12k a little over a year ago on a whim and in my eyes there hasn't been much to sway me that dollar for dollar there is anything better than it on the market. Best of all I go head to head against kids with multiple subs and 8-1200 watts and either beat them out or turn their heads when they see I'm running 1 12 off 200w of power. . .
So many decisions. . . .
03-22-2005, 02:45 PM
#43
tsxy
Thread Starter
i.e.- i was at the gas station and this shitty ass cutlass rolls up and his car is just shaking and pouding but it sounded like SHIT. i highly doubt it even sounded good inside the car.
I DO NOT WANT THAT GARBAGE
p.s.- he later proceeded to try to "holla" at me. and ask me "wheres my mans at?" LOL
I DO NOT WANT THAT GARBAGE
p.s.- he later proceeded to try to "holla" at me. and ask me "wheres my mans at?" LOL
03-22-2005, 02:53 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by stphy32
hi scott P. really quick before i read everything, i was quoted $1000 for 2 m-class plus m-amp
do u know what sizes the m-class subs come in? your typical 10,12 & 15? i think these were 12's????
do u know what sizes the m-class subs come in? your typical 10,12 & 15? i think these were 12's????
03-22-2005, 02:56 PM
#45
tsxy
Thread Starter
thats the problem this place was ghetto, i dont think i would go there actually for install.. im such a baby but im 
the guy just like whips out a calc and does these calcs in his head. he brings me to the M subs/amp and goes blah blah blah $1000 for all of this
doesnt even talk about them! i was like "uhhh ill think about it and let me keep their booklet"
the place sucked.
the guy just like whips out a calc and does these calcs in his head. he brings me to the M subs/amp and goes blah blah blah $1000 for all of this
doesnt even talk about them! i was like "uhhh ill think about it and let me keep their booklet"
the place sucked.
03-22-2005, 02:58 PM
#46
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Originally Posted by stphy32
i.e.- i was at the gas station and this shitty ass cutlass rolls up and his car is just shaking and pouding but it sounded like SHIT. i highly doubt it even sounded good inside the car.
I DO NOT WANT THAT GARBAGE
p.s.- he later proceeded to try to "holla" at me. and ask me "wheres my mans at?" LOL
I DO NOT WANT THAT GARBAGE
p.s.- he later proceeded to try to "holla" at me. and ask me "wheres my mans at?" LOL
03-22-2005, 03:10 PM
#47
El Presidente
Originally Posted by stphy32
i.e.- i was at the gas station and this shitty ass cutlass rolls up and his car is just shaking and pouding but it sounded like SHIT. i highly doubt it even sounded good inside the car.
I DO NOT WANT THAT GARBAGE
p.s.- he later proceeded to try to "holla" at me. and ask me "wheres my mans at?" LOL
I DO NOT WANT THAT GARBAGE
p.s.- he later proceeded to try to "holla" at me. and ask me "wheres my mans at?" LOL
you won't have to worry about distorted, ghetto rattlin' here! we'll take care of you. Are you lookin' at getting one sub or two? Iv'e got one 12 and it does the job pretty well as far as clean, smooth, balanced sound is concerned.
03-22-2005, 03:25 PM
#48
tsxy
Thread Starter
ok i on friday i've made an appointment to go in there and they are putting in the 250/1 and one w3v2 initially. he said he will switch them up to see what sounds i like the best. 
how much do u think it should cost for the 250/1 and the w3v2?
+ installation, tax, everything?
how much do u think it should cost for the 250/1 and the w3v2?
+ installation, tax, everything?
03-22-2005, 05:25 PM
#49
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Well going by Ebay prices (Which are usually really low).
Looks like you could get a 250/1 for about $300-$350.
http://search.ebay.com/jl-250-1_W0QQ...Q2f1QQsbrbinZt
The 12w3v2 is running for about $190 on Ebay right now.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...762141946&rd=1
The auction I linked to shows a D2, but make sure it's a 12v3v2 D2. The "D2" is the important thing. Since you are running one subwoofer, I would have him hooked a D2 wired in series so that the amp is operating at 4 ohms when it's bridged. I'm thinking you might not understand what I mean, so print this out and have him read it.
If you end up running 2 woofers you would a D4 in order to make it run at 4 ohms, so make sure that he is willing to give you a pair of D4's if you end up getting a 2nd woofer.
I quoted Ebay prices and a lot of retail shops will not match a price you from Ebay. So don't expect him to match the price, but you can use the prices you found as a way to bargain the price down.
Along with the subwoofer and amp you will also need:
- Sealed box for the subwoofer
- Hi/Lo Converter (Convert the 6x9's signal to an RCA output)
- RCA cables - (feed sound to the amp) - Don't get caught up buying super expensive RCAs, Eld will tell you they don't really make a difference.
Power, Ground, remote wiring
- I would have them run 4 guage wiring to allow for future expansion, but you could get away with 8 guage since you're only running 250 watts.
Labor for the Amp install
Labor for the Sub install
I'm not sure what the other stuff will cost. Maybe Elduderino/Scott P/Streeteffectz can comment.
I'm thinking the whole setup installed with everything should cost about $750-$800. That's just a guess
It really depends on the shop. Labor and install charges vary a lot from store to store.
If you have any more questions then feel free to hit me up. If anyone sees any mistakes or has any suggestions, feel free to do so!
Looks like you could get a 250/1 for about $300-$350.
http://search.ebay.com/jl-250-1_W0QQ...Q2f1QQsbrbinZt
The 12w3v2 is running for about $190 on Ebay right now.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...762141946&rd=1
The auction I linked to shows a D2, but make sure it's a 12v3v2 D2. The "D2" is the important thing. Since you are running one subwoofer, I would have him hooked a D2 wired in series so that the amp is operating at 4 ohms when it's bridged. I'm thinking you might not understand what I mean, so print this out and have him read it.
If you end up running 2 woofers you would a D4 in order to make it run at 4 ohms, so make sure that he is willing to give you a pair of D4's if you end up getting a 2nd woofer.
I quoted Ebay prices and a lot of retail shops will not match a price you from Ebay. So don't expect him to match the price, but you can use the prices you found as a way to bargain the price down.
Along with the subwoofer and amp you will also need:
- Sealed box for the subwoofer
- Hi/Lo Converter (Convert the 6x9's signal to an RCA output)
- RCA cables - (feed sound to the amp) - Don't get caught up buying super expensive RCAs, Eld will tell you they don't really make a difference.
Power, Ground, remote wiring
- I would have them run 4 guage wiring to allow for future expansion, but you could get away with 8 guage since you're only running 250 watts.
Labor for the Amp install
Labor for the Sub install
I'm not sure what the other stuff will cost. Maybe Elduderino/Scott P/Streeteffectz can comment.
I'm thinking the whole setup installed with everything should cost about $750-$800. That's just a guess
It really depends on the shop. Labor and install charges vary a lot from store to store.If you have any more questions then feel free to hit me up. If anyone sees any mistakes or has any suggestions, feel free to do so!
Last edited by Tsx536; 03-22-2005 at 05:29 PM.
03-22-2005, 05:37 PM
#50
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I think ultimately you are going to be happy with what you got, but if you truly are an audiophile then i would venture to say that you are going to yearn for more on down the road.
To answer a few things here. The 1000 for the mclass and amp is overpriced. That is a case of someone not knoing what they are selling and more than likely you wouldn't have been happy with what it sounded like.
Personally I fit the description of that guy that will listen to obscure audio tracks not necessarily b/c I like them but because i Love the way they can accent certain sounds on my system. I usually use that as a refence when I suggest a certain product to someone.
and as i finish my biligerant ramblings the LVS/ M3mojo, while being great subs in their own right are not even in the same building of comparisons to the w7 in my book, but no more about that i may get in trouble. . . .
That is why i ultimately took the risk and recived to reward from the Elemental Designs sub. It is a magnificent SQ sub. yes it lacks the overall output of some subs but it's musical reproduction of bass is amazing. The model I have is a 12K.14. It is last years model. The newest model is the 13kv2. I haven't heard it personally yet (I plan on ordering a few this summer), but in talking with ben and company over there they are supposed to be a much better sub than what i have even now. Word has it the new Ov2 series is going to be able to go up against the w7's/XXX's/Brahma's that have ruled the sql realm the last few years.
To answer a few things here. The 1000 for the mclass and amp is overpriced. That is a case of someone not knoing what they are selling and more than likely you wouldn't have been happy with what it sounded like.
Personally I fit the description of that guy that will listen to obscure audio tracks not necessarily b/c I like them but because i Love the way they can accent certain sounds on my system. I usually use that as a refence when I suggest a certain product to someone.
and as i finish my biligerant ramblings the LVS/ M3mojo, while being great subs in their own right are not even in the same building of comparisons to the w7 in my book, but no more about that i may get in trouble. . . .
That is why i ultimately took the risk and recived to reward from the Elemental Designs sub. It is a magnificent SQ sub. yes it lacks the overall output of some subs but it's musical reproduction of bass is amazing. The model I have is a 12K.14. It is last years model. The newest model is the 13kv2. I haven't heard it personally yet (I plan on ordering a few this summer), but in talking with ben and company over there they are supposed to be a much better sub than what i have even now. Word has it the new Ov2 series is going to be able to go up against the w7's/XXX's/Brahma's that have ruled the sql realm the last few years.
03-22-2005, 05:40 PM
#51
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meh if it is a reputible shop, then you out to be looking at about 50-65 for labor, and between 30-50 for wires and rca's. I don't sell JL stuff so i wouldn't be the person to ask about those prices but i would have to imagine that around 800 max would sound about right.
03-22-2005, 05:58 PM
#52
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Oops...almost forgot the bass knob aka Gain control.
I think they run $30-$50 or so, but see if he'll throw it in for free. Just give him a :wink: lol..
I put mine in an empty slot next to the VSA button.
Pics of my very simple amp setup. Mine is mounted to the backseat, but I would see if he'll can put on the left or right rear side of the trunk in the gap between the whell well and the back end of the car. This way you can still put your backseat down and not have to worry about stuff sitting on top of the amp.
I think they run $30-$50 or so, but see if he'll throw it in for free. Just give him a :wink: lol..
I put mine in an empty slot next to the VSA button.
Pics of my very simple amp setup. Mine is mounted to the backseat, but I would see if he'll can put on the left or right rear side of the trunk in the gap between the whell well and the back end of the car. This way you can still put your backseat down and not have to worry about stuff sitting on top of the amp.
03-22-2005, 06:30 PM
#55
El Presidente
Originally Posted by Tsx536
Thanks DJ! How did the meet go by the way?
Yep! I bought it in the black market section. I got the real JL grill for like $18 shipped. Great deal
Yep! I bought it in the black market section. I got the real JL grill for like $18 shipped. Great deal
it was awesome! the meet went well! i hope you can make it to the Bay Area Meet on April 16th! its awesome. I should be gettin' my W6v2 from a friend soon. Maybe you can drop by and check it out! I may still need help mounting my amp. I think Grille's, although may hide the beauty of the sub, are definately a good thing to have.
03-22-2005, 09:30 PM
#58
tsxy
Thread Starter
scott, eldu, dark and ccc thanks for all your input i have an appointment set on friday and i switched i am going to this place called Rays Electronics in Addison, IL. they had tons of shit in stock and look and sound way more knowledgable than where i had gone.
I have decided on this:
12w3v2 and the 250/1 series
so wish me luck everyone!!
this is what he gave me for prices:
12w3v2: $219
250/1: $399
all the wires and stuff $50 (this may go up a lil b/c i am making sure to get JL wires)
labor $80
+ tax
everything comes out to be: $798.10
i had told him about the bass knob so i dont know if that will make the price go up BUT i went to onlinecarstereo.com and they have that sub for $199 and the amp for $349 so i am going to print those off (and he said he would meet/beat any price) so i will tell (ASK) him to throw in my bass knob and everything u said TSX536 to keep it at $800
i hope he will~!!!!
i am going to print out what u said and make sure he does all of that
hopefully i will like how this setup sounds, if not then i move up to the 12w6v2 and 500/1 HAHAHA
I have decided on this:
12w3v2 and the 250/1 series
so wish me luck everyone!!
this is what he gave me for prices:
12w3v2: $219
250/1: $399
all the wires and stuff $50 (this may go up a lil b/c i am making sure to get JL wires)
labor $80
+ tax
everything comes out to be: $798.10
i had told him about the bass knob so i dont know if that will make the price go up BUT i went to onlinecarstereo.com and they have that sub for $199 and the amp for $349 so i am going to print those off (and he said he would meet/beat any price) so i will tell (ASK) him to throw in my bass knob and everything u said TSX536 to keep it at $800
i hope he will~!!!!
i am going to print out what u said and make sure he does all of that
hopefully i will like how this setup sounds, if not then i move up to the 12w6v2 and 500/1 HAHAHA
03-22-2005, 09:38 PM
#61
tsxy
Thread Starter
so do u think its better with the speaker facing the seats (inside of car) or towards the outside??
i am going to test both for myself but just curious what u all think
i am going to test both for myself but just curious what u all think
03-22-2005, 09:41 PM
#62
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Yeah, remember that it's probably not possible for him to sell for internet pricing... but sounds like good gear and and a good deal.
Most of the time facing them backwards sounds better in sedans...
Most of the time facing them backwards sounds better in sedans...
03-22-2005, 09:44 PM
#64
El Presidente
Originally Posted by stphy32
so u think that is a good combo right?
yeah i think its a good combo, as eld mentioned before the Slash series amps are stiffly regulated! no bimbo marketing!
03-22-2005, 09:50 PM
#66
El Presidente
Originally Posted by stphy32
yeah the RMS output is continuous so thats good
also it has a onboard EQ and HighPass and LoPass filters, so you can adjust the cutoff precisely at whichever frequency you think sounds good
03-22-2005, 09:54 PM
#68
El Presidente
Originally Posted by stphy32
ok total noob here, i have no idea what that means 
but hey i gotta go to bed im so tired
ttyl nite nite!
but hey i gotta go to bed im so tired
ttyl nite nite!
lol its all good! sweetdreamz!
03-22-2005, 11:01 PM
#69
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Originally Posted by stphy32
facing backwards means towards the inside of the car?
03-23-2005, 09:14 AM
#70
tsxy
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Tsx536
Thanks DJ! How did the meet go by the way?
Yep! I bought it in the black market section. I got the real JL grill for like $18 shipped. Great deal
Yep! I bought it in the black market section. I got the real JL grill for like $18 shipped. Great deal
do u think i should get a grill?
03-23-2005, 09:20 AM
#71
El Presidente
Originally Posted by stphy32
\
do u think i should get a grill?
do u think i should get a grill?
My W3v2 came w/a grille and a pre-fabricated box. If yours doesnt then I would highly suggest it, especially if you use your trunk a lot.
03-23-2005, 09:24 AM
#72
tsxy
Thread Starter
oh one more q: my friend said that i should really try to put the amp flat if possible. on the ground trunk of my car because when it gets hot the heat rises (duh) and it will keep it coolest the best if there is room for the heat to rise.
he said mounting it to the roof of the trunk is the absolute worst thing u can do b/c the heat cant go up anywhere.
wonder how it is on the side walls?
i dont use my trunk too much or go on too many trips so i was thinking since the 250/1 is soooo tiny i could do the setup like tsx536 (look at his pic)
have my box like that and than mount it next to it on the ground?
what do u all think?
he said mounting it to the roof of the trunk is the absolute worst thing u can do b/c the heat cant go up anywhere.
wonder how it is on the side walls?
i dont use my trunk too much or go on too many trips so i was thinking since the 250/1 is soooo tiny i could do the setup like tsx536 (look at his pic)
Originally Posted by Tsx536
what do u all think?
03-23-2005, 09:30 AM
#73
tsxy
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Dark DJ
My W3v2 came w/a grille and a pre-fabricated box. If yours doesnt then I would highly suggest it, especially if you use your trunk a lot.
well (supposively) the boxes they custom make at Ray's have better carpet and they are totally square. and they have like this 1" or so opening that goes along the bottom to let the air out?
i dont know if that makes it better??
but i know that a box can make or break an amp. it can make a shitty amp sound good and a good amp sound shitty.
i wonder if its easy to change boxes maybe i could have them try the sub in their box and JL's box and see what i think sounds better????
03-23-2005, 09:33 AM
#74
El Presidente
well i think its all dependent on the amp i htink. JL recommends putting the Amp uprights like Ken's in the picture. the Optimal positions is the fins pointing upwards. So if you mount it just like he did, you should be just fine
03-23-2005, 09:34 AM
#75
El Presidente
Originally Posted by stphy32
i am going to use one of Ray's Electronic's boxes. u know the w3v2 box how it comes slanted?
well (supposively) the boxes they custom make at Ray's have better carpet and they are totally square. and they have like this 1" or so opening that goes along the bottom to let the air out?
i dont know if that makes it better??
but i know that a box can make or break an amp. it can make a shitty amp sound good and a good amp sound shitty.
i wonder if its easy to change boxes maybe i could have them try the sub in their box and JL's box and see what i think sounds better????
well (supposively) the boxes they custom make at Ray's have better carpet and they are totally square. and they have like this 1" or so opening that goes along the bottom to let the air out?
i dont know if that makes it better??
but i know that a box can make or break an amp. it can make a shitty amp sound good and a good amp sound shitty.
i wonder if its easy to change boxes maybe i could have them try the sub in their box and JL's box and see what i think sounds better????
yeah its up to you, sealed or ported im pretty sure its a matter of preferance. But it looks like they know what they are doin', but there is no harm in askin
03-23-2005, 09:50 AM
#77
El Presidente
Originally Posted by stphy32
ported means it has the opening?
what usually is better sealed or ported??
what usually is better sealed or ported??
from what i know there is no "better" , but it depends on what you are lookin' for. Im not that knowledgeable in the techincal differences in sound, but from what i know, sealed has a more tighter more accurate response, where as ported usually is more efficient and has more thump but less precise. Someone feel free to correct me if i am wrong.
03-23-2005, 10:18 AM
#78
El Presidente
Originally Posted by stphy32
ported means it has the opening?
what usually is better sealed or ported??
what usually is better sealed or ported??
according to the manual, both provide good sound quality but the ported enclosure will produce 3db more given the same power, which they say u should go with if you have more room to work with.
03-23-2005, 10:26 AM
#79
tsxy
Thread Starter
hmmmm... i guess i will talk to the people and see maybe if they can do it where they can try both boxes...
is it easy to switch subs in the boxes??
i think the sealed enclosure is smaller than the ported anyway
is it easy to switch subs in the boxes??
i think the sealed enclosure is smaller than the ported anyway
03-23-2005, 10:28 AM
#80
El Presidente
here is the link for the 12W3v2 Sub's manual
http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/12W3v2_MAN.pdf
yeah the ported enclosure is about 6 inches wider and 2.25 inches deeper
either way u can't go wrong
http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/12W3v2_MAN.pdf
yeah the ported enclosure is about 6 inches wider and 2.25 inches deeper
either way u can't go wrong